Have you done a "different" LED build?

[der_wille_zur_macht]

Forum,

LED technology, and it's application to reef aquaria, are both advancing rapidly. In order to continue the advancement of any technology within the hobby, the current "mold" must be broken. Of course, advancement will only happen if the new direction is demonstrably and certifiably an improvement in one sense or another. With quantitative criteria, this can be easy (Array "X" provides more light than "Y," here are the experimental results and references to prove it). With qualitative results, of course, we have to be more careful (I like the color of "X" better than "Y," or construction method "A" fits my tank better than "B").

That said, I'm interested in hearing about your "different" LED builds. We already have a reference thread:

http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1718642

While I feel that thread serves a wonderful purpose and acts as a great point of reference, it's mostly "typical" builds. Of course, we also have the "mother" thread:

http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1678127&page=192

While various experimental or "off the beaten path" topics have come up in that thread from time to time, it also focuses on a "typical" build, and the "different" stuff is more or less lost in hundreds of pages and impossible to find.

So, I'd like to start a thread to collect any and all "different" LED builds or build concepts. I want to leave this wide open to differences from the typical build in ANY sense:


Did you use a driver other than a buckpuck or Meanwell ELN?
Did you use LEDs other than what is typically used?
Did you use a color mix other than the most common mix?
Did you use a heatsink arrangement other than the common monolithic finned heatsink?
Have you come up with an interesting mounting method, involving a pendant, canopy, or fixture that's not typical or possible with other forms of lighting? (widmer - post your projector build please!)
Have you solved an assembly/mounting/construction method differently than the common technique?
Are you using LEDs as supplemental lighting? Over a 'fuge? On an ATS? As moonlights? On a fish only aquarium? Any way other than as primary lighting on a photosynthetic reef?
Have you bunched all your LEDs into a tight group, instead of spreading them out evenly over the tank?
Are you using LEDs to spotlight only certain areas of your tank?


Of course, opinions and feelings on this subject can run hot. I'm hoping we can use this thread to spread knowledge and ideas, rather than to create controversy. That's why I'd like to start with some suggestions:


If you're posting a new or different idea, please be very specific in describing how it has provided a tangible positive or negative impact on your tank. It's definitely OK to say "I really like this" but please don't say "This is better" unless you can show how or why it is better. And please don't say "my way is better" unless you'd like to actually explain your way!
If you are posting in response to someone else's idea, please be clear, objective, and constructive. Don't say, "Intelligent people would never do that." And so on.


Hopefully this thread will provide a positive impact on development of LEDs for reefkeeping. Let the sharing begin!

[skanderson]

i have nothing substantial to add to this thread but really will be following it intensely. anyone considering a led build should be interested in out of the mainstream build methods. no advancement will come without people pushing the boundaries. i of course dont want to be the one who does the pushing but would love to benefit from other brave souls. so lets see some new ideas here.

[sflorlando]

Hello All,

Ive done three things that are a little different. Unsure of the long term results (since it is so new) but am really happy! Thanks der_wille_zur_macht for all your great insights on other builds and of course any/all of the other LED gurus!

First off is my LED Array on a light mover. Consisting of 24 x 3 watt Cree coolwhite purchase from RapidLED
http://i276.photobucket.com/albums/kk30/sflorlando/895f6978.jpg
http://i276.photobucket.com/albums/kk30/sflorlando/db4c6f2c.jpg

and heres a video.
http://i276.photobucket.com/albums/kk30/sflorlando/th_M4H01720.jpg (http://s276.photobucket.com/albums/kk30/sflorlando/?action=view&current=M4H01720.mp4)

Ken

[sflorlando]

I also built a fuge light.

http://i276.photobucket.com/albums/kk30/sflorlando/2023b845.jpg
http://i276.photobucket.com/albums/kk30/sflorlando/c80cf3dd.jpg
I used some alluminimum L channel to mount
http://i276.photobucket.com/albums/kk30/sflorlando/93f11320.jpg
and heres a movie of it mounted
http://i276.photobucket.com/albums/kk30/sflorlando/th_M4H01721.jpg (http://s276.photobucket.com/albums/kk30/sflorlando/?action=view&current=M4H01721.mp4)
I really like how it was mounted...it makes it really easy to move it back and forth to position it correctly.

[sflorlando]

Sorry for being such a thread hog!

heres was first attempt at LEDs. Cree 3 watt Royal Blue moonlight LED.


http://i276.photobucket.com/albums/kk30/sflorlando/led.jpg
http://i276.photobucket.com/albums/kk30/sflorlando/58b8ec39.jpg

and heres it all together
http://i276.photobucket.com/albums/kk30/sflorlando/0eae3600.jpg

[mcgyvr]

I just wanted to add that Tyco is about to introduce some very neat "solderless" LED modules for CREE LED's (more info not available at this time).
They currently have one (but it is now obsolete) for the Luxeon Rebels that you basically drop the LED into a plastic contact housing, snap on a heatsink and go.. No need to solder. There are contacts that mate with the pads on the star boards eliminating the soldering (which can be a real pain and lead to failure of the LED's in time). This is what is currently obsolete but none the less a great way to go about an LED fixture.. There are still some around in the market if you can find them. http://www.tycoelectronics.com/aboutus/news/prodinnov.aspx?id=1605

[Fishtastic]

I laugh at all the hype about the circuit board led's, I used a few stip lights that's 96 led's off ebay, cost like 10$ per strip.
Been working just fine for months, and everything shows healthy growth.

+1 for 'other' led's

[Eurobeaner]

^^ I'm pretty sure that's not what this thread is for (the first sentence)

Post up what you are talking about, pics, full tank shot, said growth and maybe more people would go that route

[widmer]

Have you come up with an interesting mounting method, involving a pendant, canopy, or fixture that's not typical or possible with other forms of lighting? (widmer - post your projector build please!)



...This projector build?

http://i276.photobucket.com/albums/kk10/widfis/01282010012.jpg

Top-down view, standing next to the aquarium:
http://i276.photobucket.com/albums/kk10/widfis/01282010007.jpg

Fun picture, the beams become visible depending on what's happening in the kitchen. No fancy camerawork or photoshopping:
http://i276.photobucket.com/albums/kk10/widfis/01282010005.jpg

You can google "widmer's projection" or click here to see the build:
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1784873

If anyone thinks this is fun, hold onto your seat because I'm in the final planning stages of a version of this system on steroids, for a larger rimless tank.

[lighthouze08]

has anyone tried these ballasts? https://p11.secure.hostingprod.com/@nextechlighting.com/ssl/index.php?cPath=1_11&osCsid=2e7c03688bcb26093de89499311ad7d7

[tahiriqbal]

Did you use a driver other than a buckpuck or Meanwell ELN?
Yes, (Reef Illumination touch LED drivers) home made drivers 48Volt @ 700mA max.

http://i375.photobucket.com/albums/oo192/sialkoti786/iqbaliantech.jpg

Touch Screen interface

http://i375.photobucket.com/albums/oo192/sialkoti786/macroandLEDDIY065.jpg

http://i375.photobucket.com/albums/oo192/sialkoti786/macroandLEDDIY064.jpg

http://i375.photobucket.com/albums/oo192/sialkoti786/macroandLEDDIY078.jpg

Did you use LEDs other than what is typically used?

Yes, I have full intentions to incorporate low power RGB strip (un known brand)for mood lighting (not moonlights)RGB will be controlled from the same touch screen controller which I am using to control my main lights. .

Did you use a color mix other than the most common mix?

Yes. For the whites I am using Cree XPG (WW + NW + CW 5 each) 15 whites in total per panel each driven from its own dedicated driver for better control over colour mixing. For the blues, I have chosen 10 XPE royal blue and 5 normal blue, once again each bank is driven from its own individual driver.

Did you use a heatsink arrangement other than the common monolithic finned heatsink?

No, I am using standard 1500mm x 300mm (L) x 40mm(H).

http://i375.photobucket.com/albums/oo192/sialkoti786/LEDproject008.jpg

Have you come up with an interesting mounting method, involving a pendant, canopy, or fixture that's not typical or possible with other forms of lighting? (widmer - post your projector build please!)

No but have few plans once the whole system is ready for assembly.

Have you solved an assembly/mounting/construction method differently than the common technique?

Sorry not yet :confused:

Are you using LEDs as supplemental lighting? Over a 'fuge? On an ATS? As moonlights? On a fish only aquarium? Any way other than as primary lighting on a photosynthetic reef?

Yes, I have been a big fan of using hydophonic (red/blue) low power LED fixture and it does help to grow my Cheato but not at a great rate.

http://i375.photobucket.com/albums/oo192/sialkoti786/TorchVideo2109.jpg

Have you bunched all your LEDs into a tight group, instead of spreading them out evenly over the tank?

Yes, each PCB LED lighting board is quite compact. Each boards are 5.46" wide and 6.85" long. No final decision has been made on optics.

Are you using LEDs to spotlight only certain areas of your tank?

No, but with this controller I could simply lit certain area of my tank (I hope).

[truebeliever71]

Excellent discussion Nate!

I'm still the in the R&D stages of my array. I currently have a 140G tank but hoping that will change soon to a 120G (4x2x2) that will be easier to light.

Anyway, of the current designs the two things that bother me the most are the bulky heatsinks and the directionality of the LEDs. (Meaning that you have either put up with the wide spread or use optics to narrow the beam which can lead to a spot light effect.

A design that I'm contemplating of using is one where the LEDs will mounted on those solar tubes (cut length-wise so that the light can be shaped to the tank) and cooled with fans on either end in a push-pull configuration.

What are you thoughts? Does this sound like a feasible design?

[sfsuphysics]

double post

[sfsuphysics]

# Did you use a heatsink arrangement other than the common monolithic finned heatsink?
A play on this. C-channel aluminum bolted together to effectively make the monolithic finned heatsink look. Also actively cooled with a computer fan blowing down on it, and the air pushes outward, keeps it quite cool actually.


# Have you come up with an interesting mounting method, involving a pendant, canopy, or fixture that's not typical or possible with other forms of lighting? (widmer - post your projector build please!)
Wrapped it in acrylic, used zip ties... does that count? :D (went overboard on acrylic size because it was scrap stuff I had laying around)


# Are you using LEDs as supplemental lighting? Over a 'fuge? On an ATS? As moonlights? On a fish only aquarium? Any way other than as primary lighting on a photosynthetic reef?
Its an anemone fuge, RBTAs, they apparently don't seem any different than when I had my 175w halide (with old crappy magnetic ballast) over it, 48watts of LEDs *shrug*

# Have you bunched all your LEDs into a tight group, instead of spreading them out evenly over the tank?
Fairly bunched, separated a bit on the heatsink, but no lenses so I get more than sufficient spread, however most of this is because I couldn't find much in the way of XP-G lens choices.

# Are you using LEDs to spotlight only certain areas of your tank?
Thought about it, however unless I go LED only, it ain't going to happen.

Picture
http://img843.imageshack.us/img843/4237/p9170313.jpg

[der_wille_zur_macht]

A design that I'm contemplating of using is one where the LEDs will mounted on those solar tubes (cut length-wise so that the light can be shaped to the tank) and cooled with fans on either end in a push-pull configuration.

What are you thoughts? Does this sound like a feasible design?

This will have little or no effect on the distribution of light in the tank - LEDs are highly directional, even without (external) optics. A big wide reflector as you'd use on MH, T5, etc. won't really change the light distribution at all. If you think the widest optics will be too tight, just use no optics and you'll be set. But I'd probably still order a few optics and experiment! For most of the models of LED we're using, there are optics available right up to the point where they're barely tighter than a raw LED, and if you can't find an optic in the width you want, you can always modify off the shelf optics - which is something that would be appropriate for this thread, if you went that route.

[truebeliever71]

This will have little or no effect on the distribution of light in the tank - LEDs are highly directional, even without (external) optics. A big wide reflector as you'd use on MH, T5, etc. won't really change the light distribution at all. If you think the widest optics will be too tight, just use no optics and you'll be set. But I'd probably still order a few optics and experiment! For most of the models of LED we're using, there are optics available right up to the point where they're barely tighter than a raw LED, and if you can't find an optic in the width you want, you can always modify off the shelf optics - which is something that would be appropriate for this thread, if you went that route.

I should have gone further in depth in my description about the "reflector". The channel would would be deep and wide enough that would narrow the light coming from it so that it would not hit the tank glass. This would allow for a better blending or blurring of the individual lights to eliminate the spot light effect given by narrow optics.

I believe this design is appropriate for this thread since it's about breaking the mold of the current LED arrays. And this eliminates the current problem or trade-off I read when using optics.

[der_wille_zur_macht]

Give it a shot and let us know how it goes! I agree, you're thinking in slightly different terms than I originally read your post as.

[der_wille_zur_macht]

Bump back up - some creative LED builds here. I'm interested in hearing more about peoples' experiences playing with other colors/models of LEDs.

[merkurmaniac]

Here is my LED build. Its a bit unusual. I used 6 small heat sinks to mount 7 leds. I am illuminating my 34 gal in an art niche that I already installed a skylight into. I don't have conventional space available, so I used a piece of maple trim and mounted the lights close behind it. I mounted them on some cheesy metal tape so that I could twist and aim them individually. They are not visible from in front, or even much from below, due to viewing angle.

I used four small round heat sinks from ebay and two small CPU/GPU heat sinks.

http://www.merkurxr4ti.com/fish/led1r.JPG
http://www.merkurxr4ti.com/fish/led2r.JPG
http://www.merkurxr4ti.com/fish/postled1r.JPG

Wiring is temporary, of course, and now I have some sheetrock repair to do, since I removed the other lights I had. I am only running the dimmer circuit at about 5 volts, and its quite bright. I am happy with it.

[der_wille_zur_macht]

Bump again! Still hoping we get some reports of DIY'ers playing with other models or colors of LED besides cool white or royal blue products from Cree.

[drauka99]

MH in a thread on here is talking about adding a few red leds to his build (liquid cooled)

i am wondering if there are purple leds... maybe violet? I have a 24 nanocude that i may be willing to recommision and try my hand at some off the wall DIY lighting on it since it woudl have to be a bedroom tank.

I am thinking that since the purple bulbs in T5s add a color "pop" they might do something simular in a LED build if the right ratio is achived

the red expeirment should be interesting as well.

As i ponder it the more I want to do it but I have several other things I HAVE to work on first.

[khaosinc]

I'm playing with one currently, but its not done yet I'm using 3w LEDs that have a standard light bulb screw and floodlight bulb mounts. I should be able to adjust angles to highlight areas and I don't have to deal w/ drivers or anything else.

(they were also not much more than the LEDs I'd have to soder etc..

[therman]

This one is a little non-traditional I suppose. Similar principle to widmer's but on a bigger scale.

This is a 156 Cree setup running 36" from the water on a 36"x37"x18" frameless tank from glasscages.com. Right now it's a mix of 78CW:78RB XR-Es, though when they arrive I'll be swapping out 12 of each for NW and regular blues to tweak the colors a bit. It uses 20 degree optics, which is one of the reasons I went with XR-E as they weren't readily available for the XP-G/Es when I built it back in May. I also previously built an 88 Cree fixture using XP-G CW, and wasn't happy with how much bluer they were than the XR-Es. These optics allow for unobstructed topside viewing and access, and there is very minimal spill of light into the room outside the tank.

http://i187.photobucket.com/albums/x165/t-a-herman/LED%20lighting/framelessfulltank-sm.jpg

It uses non-dimming ELN-60-48 drivers, which I manually adjust with a small hole drilled in the housing to access the SVR2 current adjustment pot without taking off the cover. Right now whites run between 370-425mA and blues 500-600mA depending on the area of the tank and the corals that are there. Still tweaking them to find the right intensity/color balance. Growth has been excellent, but intensity is high so some acros are paler than I'd like.

I'm going for an acro dominated shallow water reef with a colors on the warm side, and a nice group of chromis like I've seen in the wild. Very happy so far with the the system. Excuse the cluttered sandbed, it's been remedied now :)

-Tim

[widmer]

therman- Excellent :)

Gotta love that unobstructed top-down viewing. Did you upgrade to low-iron glass when you bought this tank from GC? If so, is it pretty clear? I can't make up my mind on the exact dimensions of the tank I'm going to buy from them any minute, but I do know that the price on going three-sides low-iron is dirt cheap...

[therman]

This tank was an absolute steal that I couldn't pass up. I was looking at either a 3x3 or 4x4 half cube, and this one showed up on the website on clearance for $250 (guessing it was mis-cut by an inch). My employer was already having a shipment from them delivered so I got free shipping to boot.

Due to the ridiculous deal I didn't get low-iron on this one. We did get a 4x4 at work with a low iron front and it is very nice. Maybe on the next tank...

You can come check it out sometime if you want. You, myself, and the other Tim form the NWOH/SEMI corridor of LEDs.

[XSiVE]

This tank was an absolute steal that I couldn't pass up. I was looking at either a 3x3 or 4x4 half cube, and this one showed up on the website on clearance for $250 (guessing it was mis-cut by an inch). My employer was already having a shipment from them delivered so I got free shipping to boot.

Due to the ridiculous deal I didn't get low-iron on this one. We did get a 4x4 at work with a low iron front and it is very nice. Maybe on the next tank...

You can come check it out sometime if you want. You, myself, and the other Tim form the NWOH/SEMI corridor of LEDs.

hey I want to be in the corridor too! ;) sorry, this is taking the thread off track.

[110galreef]

:thumbsup: following along! Some awesome setups all

[E.intheC]

I'm interested in this as well...

[terahz]

Did you use a driver other than a buckpuck or Meanwell ELN?
Yes, I use the DIY driver from http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1759758.
I've noticed that the drivers work well, but based on the provided voltage to them (between 24V and 21V) you can get a variation of 20% in PAR. Guessing the driver is not too stable.

Did you use LEDs other than what is typically used?
Sorry no :)
Did you use a color mix other than the most common mix?
50:50 XP series.

Did you use a heatsink arrangement other than the common monolithic finned heatsink?
Individual heatsinks Wakefield 658-35AB. I dont see why we need to use gigantic. Individual heatsinks are enough and don't require active cooling either. All are connected with a 1/4" u-channel aluminum which also helps with the cooling. Temperature of the heatsinks peaks at 115F (46C).
Have you come up with an interesting mounting method, involving a pendant, canopy, or fixture that's not typical or possible with other forms of lighting? (widmer - post your projector build please!)
Regular square frame made of wood, 3ft from the surface of the water. 12 degree optics.

http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1880113

[seti007]

Wow therman, thats very impressive:thumbsup: . This is exactly what i would like to do. I have a cube that is almost exactly like yours in dimensions. do you get any spotlighting effect using the 20 degree optics? I like a 20K look so I may need to use a higher ratio of blue. Since your corals are bleeching a bit due to a high par, do you think a fewer number of leds like a 100 might work better maybe with slightly wider optics? I like the open look and would like to have the fixture at least 36" above the tank.
Thanks



This one is a little non-traditional I suppose. Similar principle to widmer's but on a bigger scale.

This is a 156 Cree setup running 36" from the water on a 36"x37"x18" frameless tank from glasscages.com. Right now it's a mix of 78CW:78RB XR-Es, though when they arrive I'll be swapping out 12 of each for NW and regular blues to tweak the colors a bit. It uses 20 degree optics, which is one of the reasons I went with XR-E as they weren't readily available for the XP-G/Es when I built it back in May. I also previously built an 88 Cree fixture using XP-G CW, and wasn't happy with how much bluer they were than the XR-Es. These optics allow for unobstructed topside viewing and access, and there is very minimal spill of light into the room outside the tank.

http://i187.photobucket.com/albums/x165/t-a-herman/LED%20lighting/framelessfulltank-sm.jpg

It uses non-dimming ELN-60-48 drivers, which I manually adjust with a small hole drilled in the housing to access the SVR2 current adjustment pot without taking off the cover. Right now whites run between 370-425mA and blues 500-600mA depending on the area of the tank and the corals that are there. Still tweaking them to find the right intensity/color balance. Growth has been excellent, but intensity is high so some acros are paler than I'd like.

I'm going for an acro dominated shallow water reef with a colors on the warm side, and a nice group of chromis like I've seen in the wild. Very happy so far with the the system. Excuse the cluttered sandbed, it's been remedied now :)

-Tim

[-Scott-]

I'm thinking of doing my own LED setup but the one thing I cant figure out is how many I would need. I am planning an 84 x 30 x 27 and, while I admit I didn't read all 300 pages of the MOTHER of ALL THREADS from what I can tell there isn't a formula there to answer the question either. So how do you determine how many per square foot/inch (or would it be cubic foot/inch), any help?

[widmer]

Scott and others with general questions, let's try to keep this thread on topic, and try to direct basic questions to the DIY thread. Scott, here's a good post in that thread where you will find the answer to your question:

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showpost.php?p=17783831&postcount=4994

[jgrog76]

12 xre RB, 12 xre cw, and when they arrive 12 xre blue, 3 eln60-48p drivers, heatsink is 10x10 suspended 40 inches above sandbed. All LED have 20 degree optics installed. There is no fan on the heatsink. After a few hours of runtime it is warm to the touch and I can keep my hand on it without any problems. It has only been running for a few days so I have no long term reports yet.

[wfournier]

Built this using one Bridgelux Neutral white and 8 Satis 445nm 10w Royal blues. The optics on the white are a little tighter than I would like (I got the "wide" reflector) and I think it would be better for the white light to be coming from more than one point to better blend with the blue (going to be playing with some XM-L's as soon as Cutter ships my order).

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5126/5352668197_331da6036e_z.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/wfournier/5352668197/)
IMAG0312 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/wfournier/5352668197/) by wfournier (http://www.flickr.com/people/wfournier/), on Flickr

[Daniel G]

* Did you use a driver other than a buckpuck or Meanwell ELN?
I'm using some drivers I bought on E bay.
110V input and 16-38V out at 650mA

* Did you use LEDs other than what is typically used?
Trying StevesLeds for now.

* Did you use a color mix other than the most common mix?
75/25

* Did you use a heatsink arrangement other than the common monolithic finned heatsink?
Used Aluminum 6061 .25" thick

* Have you come up with an interesting mounting method, involving a pendant, canopy, or fixture that's not typical or possible with other forms of lighting?
See pictures.

* Are you using LEDs as supplemental lighting? Over a 'fuge? On an ATS? As moonlights? On a fish only aquarium? Any way other than as primary lighting on a photosynthetic reef?
Primary lighting

* Have you bunched all your LEDs into a tight group, instead of spreading them out evenly over the tank?
Evenly distributed

* Are you using LEDs to spotlight only certain areas of your tank?
Until I get more

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1982553