Aquavitro salt (SEACHEM)

[Paulairduck]

I just picked up a bucket from the LFS. I opened the bucket which is a twist, took two guys, and a bad smell is coming from the bucket!!?!?!?. anybody used this salt???

I am going to post some number later today
ALK,CAl,MAG,Po4

[allsps40]

I did not know Seachem came out with an AquaVitro salt product. I have used their supplements, really like the Fuel. It is normal for salt mix especially reef salts to have a strong chemical or vitamin smell to them. I have been using RC and that has a strong smell to it. Please do post the numbers on the salt.

[allsps40]

Lol never mind I have seen this salt before. I is one of 3 that I have been thinking of changing to. I have heard goo things about it. It is a little different that the Seachem Reef salt. Very interested in the numbers and how it works out for you. Keep us posted, Im almost out of salt.

[Paulairduck]

the price was on the high side, but I gave it a try:D

[Paulairduck]

Aquavitro salt (Seachem)

tests so far

Alk 10.0dkh (lamotte)
Cal 420ppm (Salifert)

I am going to let it mix for 24hrs and retest everything
Alk CAl Mag P04

[Tank2379]

I did not know Seachem came out with an AquaVitro salt product. I have used their supplements, really like the Fuel. It is normal for salt mix especially reef salts to have a strong chemical or vitamin smell to them. I have been using RC and that has a strong smell to it. Please do post the numbers on the salt.

It was actually really low key becasue I didn't know it was out- I mean I knew they were making it but there was no offical realease date i guess for it.

[GreshamH]

It came out last year folks... it was on all the blogs, all the magazines, was posted here on RC and was officially launched at IMACwest in 2009. I see marketing for it everywhere I go and I travel the US going to fish stores as part of my job :D

FWIW the product is Aquavitro Salinity.

[GreshamH]

http://reefcentral.com/forums/search.php?searchid=3043558

[allsps40]

I like the ca and alk level. I am making my system more stable, added ATO and dose kalk with it. I am wanting to keep mt alk at 10 dkh and ca at 420-440ppm. This is only one of 2 salts that I have found that has the levels I want right out of the bucket. The other is H2Ocean.

[Paulairduck]

the AQUAVITRO salt has been mixing for 24 hrs and the water is not clear, never seen this before, should I be worried???:confused:

[allsps40]

Is it cloudy or brown?

[Paulairduck]

it is cloudy, there is no residue in the bottom of the bucket. I am confused on this one, should be clear!

[Soymilk]

Mines smells a bit funny too. Can you tell us how you mixed it?

I usually add salt slowly while mixing. I noticed when I added all the salt in one time, the water would stay a little cloudy longer. Usually clears up when I add it to my tank.

[MedRed]

There's a big thread on this already. Search is your friend.
Yes the salt smells bad,
and yes it is is cloudy for awhile and can take a couple of days to clear.

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1895830&highlight=aquavitro+salinity
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1839619&highlight=salinity+salt

[allsps40]

Yeah most reef salts have smell to them I have found. From the extra elements and stuff they put in.

[teesquare]

The actual name of the salt is " SALINITY ", and is sold as an Aqua Vitro product. Aqua Vitro is made by Seachem.

It does have an odd smell - and does take more time to clear up than you may be used to.
I am told that this is a good thing, as Seachem does not use any additives to artificially cause the salt to dissolve faster. Sometimes - less is more, be cautious of salts which mix fast, and clear up quickly.
I do know that Bommer seems to like this salt over the others he has used or tested.
T

[Paulairduck]

yes this morning the salt is clear, so the water change will finally take place:beer:

[rsl3]

I have seen great results with this salt, smell is normal, and takes a little longer to mix but not a bad thing. You will see fantastic results from this stuff!

[allsps40]

How long did it take to mix clear?

[MedRed]

usually 24-48 hours

Mine clears up a lot quicker now that I aerate. It usually clears up over night

[pimp2daizzo]

mine took a day or two for it to clear but its worth it, and the smell is norm. go to seachem.com and you can read why it smell and everything

[RBU1]

OK folks.....I have posted this before on another thread but feel it should be posted again. The trick to using this salinity salt us you should only let it mix for 3 or so hours and use it cloudy. If you test it after mixing for 3 hours your parameters will be perfect. If you let it mix for 24-48 hours till the salt clears you ALK will be a lot lower then it should be. If you can deal with a cloudy tank for about an hour this salt is AWESOME.....Best I have ever used and I used a good amount of salts. If your mixing a small amount of salt like in the 5 gallon range it will be almost clear in the 3 hour mix time. Larger quantities seem to stay real cloudy.

[teesquare]

Not sure I understand that...Why would it not lose Alk. once place int he aqurium then? Are you sure that you do not have a CO2 imbalance in the house, or.....
Can you tell us your exaact mix proceedures?
T

[RBU1]

Not sure I understand that...Why would it not lose Alk. once place int he aqurium then? Are you sure that you do not have a CO2 imbalance in the house, or.....
Can you tell us your exaact mix proceedures?
T

No disrespect but just trust what I am saying....or better yet try it for yourself. Call Seachem they can explain it better than I can.

[MedRed]

My mix has been sitting for a week and the alk is perfect.

[RBU1]

Then you must be making a small batch of it or your test kit is wrong. OR you let it mix for a couple hours then just let it sit.

[teesquare]

No disrespect but just trust what I am saying....or better yet try it for yourself. Call Seachem they can explain it better than I can.

No dis-repect to you either...But you have no idea how well known I am to them at Seachem:lmao:

Look - if you have something to contribute, please do so. But I - just like everyone else here - am looking for solid information.

As for the "try it for yourself":lol:....I mix up to 325 gallons at a time. And have used many buckets of Salinity thus far. I have had some interesting experiences, and am actually running sort of an experiment in conjunction with Seachem concerning salinity as I write this, and I can't comment on it. But, I would love to gather all the information that I can to compare my notes against - that is all, not challenging your expertise.:thumbsup: So - I was hoping you would give us the details of "how" you mix.
Just a footnote - the reason that waiting for the mix to clear has always been recommended, is so that the chemical reactions needed to stabilize various water chemistry perameters can take place first. You want all the ingredients to completely dissolve, and be in solution. This is to help prevent shocking or even burning sensitve animals. Thus the "wait until it is clear" motive.
Not trying to be smarmy - just asking you to share any experiences you have had with this product.

T

[RBU1]

Well I am going to bed now so I will continue in the morning. I also have close contact with seachem and get all the info I post directly from them.

[RBU1]

You should know what I am talking about if you talk to seachem. They told me to only mix for a couple hours and use it cloudy.

[pimp2daizzo]

ya i dont see how to alk would fall

[MedRed]

Then you must be making a small batch of it or your test kit is wrong. OR you let it mix for a couple hours then just let it sit.

I mix and aerate for about 48 hours in a 32 gallon brute container. I made a container last Friday and just tested it today while I had my test kits out.

[teesquare]

QUOTE: Well I am going to bed now so I will continue in the morning. I also have close contact with seachem and get all the info I post directly from them.

That would be most helpful. Thanks!

You should know what I am talking about if you talk to seachem. They told me to only mix for a couple hours and use it cloudy.


I have not been told that. Nor have I seen that in print, nor ever recommended before. But - if it something new, or specific to Salinity - I certainly want to know it. So - please, let us know what you find.
Thanks-

T

[teesquare]

http://i428.photobucket.com/albums/qq1/teesquare1/DSC022871.jpg

So - they say that you CAN use it immediately - *but* they recommend a 24 hour mix.
Perhaps a small water change with freshly mixed salt is o.k. - but I can't take the chance with larger changes that I do.....

T

[pimp2daizzo]

http://i428.photobucket.com/albums/qq1/teesquare1/DSC022871.jpg

So - they say that you CAN use it immediately - *but* they recommend a 24 hour mix.
Perhaps a small water change with freshly mixed salt is o.k. - but I can't take the chance with larger changes that I do.....

T


+1 for waiting

[teesquare]

Waiting for what? My camera to take a picture of a bucket?:thumbsup:
Oh! - you mean waiting the recommended 24 hours. That is what I have always been told - but, seriously - technology changes, and if there is something new to learn here - then I am all for it!
T

[MedRed]

I wasn't disagreeing with using immediately. I was disagreeing with an alk drop if not used immediately.

[Rockys_Pride]

I use this and love it, switched from IO. If I don't use it within a few days, like when I'm feeling lazy and have salt mixing for a week, there is white stuff around the outside of the bucket. What is precipitating out? Anyways, there is also a lot number(by the barcode in the pic) that you can goto seachem and check what the EPA results were. I guess SeaChem has independent labs double check them to make sure they're giving you a quality product.

[teesquare]

I have seen some strange things with salt mixes, and local conditions.

Don't mis-understand, I really like Salinity.

So, what I was hoping for more info on how RBU1 - and anyone else here- is mixing, i.e - powerhead, or powerhead and airstone... Mixing in a basement? or in the main part of the house?
And, what are your tests of the mixed salts showing? With what test kit? A lot that we could all share to understand not just the product better - but the imact of different mix proceedures.
I know all of this sounds a bit out there - but there are real reasons it matters.
Really tight houses, may have higher CO2 levels, which can suppress ph, and interfere with toher aspects of the salt mix. Basements in particular are oftern lower in O2, and higher in CO2 ( this is often where the furnace, and gas fired water heaters are, and in-adequate air circulation, and so on...

[pimp2daizzo]

if i was in a rush to do a water change i would do it cloudy, but i just don't understand how using it cloudy is better....

[pimp2daizzo]

Waiting for what? My camera to take a picture of a bucket?:thumbsup:
Oh! - you mean waiting the recommended 24 hours. That is what I have always been told - but, seriously - technology changes, and if there is something new to learn here - then I am all for it!
T

yep, i wanted to add my bucket to the mix :P

[RBU1]

For a scientific answer I suggest you call Seachem. I will be calling them again today to clairify, however what I was told from them was to mix the salt make sure I am at the 35ppt and use it within a few hours. Don't mix for extended periods as stated on the bucket. If you call Seachem ask for either Amanda or Lindsy. Both people I have dealt with before and actually know me by name.:lol2:

And for the record.....The Cuprmaine bottle also states to treat for 14 days. If you ask Seachem how long to treat they will suggest 3 to 4 weeks......So take what the bottle says however you want.

[teesquare]

So we don't bombard them with calls, please post what you find after conferring with them.

I am afraid you took my posts as a challenge to you. This is not my intent. I am sincerely try to accumulate a body of evidence from as many hobbyists as possible for something I am working on.

So - as many as I can convince topost how they are mixing - exact conditions, where, aerating or not, so on...will be very useful.

Thanks-

T

[Paulairduck]

I still have 5 gallons mixing and it has been 72 hrs, going to get some final results and see how the corals like it.

the first 5 gallon water change went good, corals open and happy!!:rollface:
ALK 9.6DKH (lamotte), Cal 420ppm (Salifert), PO4 0.05 (Hanna), Mag 1350 (Elos).

[teesquare]

When you mixed the salt, were you using a powerhead only - or combing it with aeration?
Thanks,
T

[RBU1]

So we don't bombard them with calls, please post what you find after conferring with them.

I am afraid you took my posts as a challenge to you. This is not my intent. I am sincerely try to accumulate a body of evidence from as many hobbyists as possible for something I am working on.

So - as many as I can convince topost how they are mixing - exact conditions, where, aerating or not, so on...will be very useful.

Thanks-

T

If your post about a challenge to me was intended for me...I am not taking anything as a challenge. I have the "been there done that" attitude. I have spent numberous hours on the phone with Seachem and came up with what I feel is a viable solution. I just don't remember all the scientific terms Lindsee used when she explained it to me.

[RBU1]

I still have 5 gallons mixing and it has been 72 hrs, going to get some final results and see how the corals like it.

the first 5 gallon water change went good, corals open and happy!!:rollface:
ALK 9.6DKH (lamotte), Cal 420ppm (Salifert), PO4 0.05 (Hanna), Mag 1350 (Elos).

In my expirience small batches do not have the same issue that larger quantites have. When I mix up 7 gallons its almost clear in the 3 hour mixing time frame. When I mix up 50 gallons it takes 3 days to become clear and the ALK level will be low after the 3 days.

[teesquare]

If your post about a challenge to me was intended for me...I am not taking anything as a challenge. I have the "been there done that" attitude. I have spent numberous hours on the phone with Seachem and came up with what I feel is a viable solution. I just don't remember all the scientific terms Lindsee used when she explained it to me.
The one thing that I am confident in - is that 30 years in this hobby have taught me that all things change. What we believed was the "best method" a few years ago - we scoff at now.
So - I can't afford a "been there done that" attitude.:lol2:

New technologies, recent discoveries, and discussions like this one can help all of us continue to fine tune, or - even change what we consider norms or best practices.
No such things as experts in a hobby. Experts are paid for what they know. Last I checked, we have a few professionals - but they are usually the ones we all want to go and listen to speak at MACNA and so on. Good to know, but they too can get out of touch if they do not continue to learn.

That is what I am here for! Continued learning.

So - any conversation with Seachem? Anything new from them on mixing, or revisions on the labeling?
Thanks,
T

[RBU1]

So - I can't afford a "been there done that" attitude.:lol2:

T

Wait a minute we are talking about mixing salt here right.....:spin1:

[teesquare]

Yep....But, I do question things that I have done a certain way for years. Like witht eh salt: Strange to me that they say it is o.k. to add while cloudy..Why? Because until this - I have always adhered to "must be clear" before adding. Why - because any cloudinesss meant that the salt had not completely dissolved, and would not be safe for delicate organisms. Un-dissolved ingredients can chemically irritate, and even burn some corals.
But.....
Hey - I used to think that the ONLY Barbeque was BEEF!
Then, in a moment of weakness, someone slipped me some pullled pork.... WOW!

So, what I really learned from that epiphany was more about:

How we often limit our own growth thru too tight a grip on our "conventionalist" perspective. Don't get me wrong, there are principles that will always be true due to laws of physics or similiar.
But - again, as technologies change - we have to adapt. 30 years agao, who could have imagined we would be communicating in the manner we are doing right now? Just one example.

It is always the simple things that we overlook which can most alter outcomes. And - it is that "over-confidence" that often prevents us from finding the real reason that things went wrong.


T

[RBU1]

Man I think you look into things to much.....You are over comlicating an already challenging hobby. Relax a bit.......

I don't recall ever reading to mix till clear.....Maybe I missed it....

But I am sure you will enlighten me.

[RBU1]

Here are some mixing instructions from 2 of the most widely used salts....I don't see anything about waiting till clear....

Instant Ocean & Reef Crystals Synthetic Sea Salt
Instant Ocean Sea Salt
Mixing Instructions:

Mix Instant Ocean salt with reverse osmosis or distilled water for optimal results. Tap water can be used, but it must be treated with dechlorinator prior to use.
Stir vigorously to thoroughly mix salt and water. Although the solution can be used immediately, we suggest that you aerate the water with an air pump to adequately oxygenate the water prior to use.
Adjust salinity with an accurate hydrometer such as the SeaTest® Hydrometer full range specific gravity meter. Recommended specific gravity range: 1.020 to 1.023 at 75°F. If specific gravity is too low, add more Instant Ocean salt. If too high, add more dechlorinated water.
Tightly reseal bag to keep moisture out. Be sure to store remaining Instant Ocean salt in a cool, dry place.
Important Reminders:
NEVER mix salt in an aquarium containing animals. In new aquariums, transfer animals to the aquarium only after salt is completely mixed, the solution aerated, and specific gravity adjusted correctly.

Water Changes:
We recommend monitoring your water parameters (nitrates, phospates, alkalinity, and pH) and performing 25% water changes as necessary. To prepare small quantities of Instant Ocean salt for use in your water changes, use 1/2 cup of Instant Ocean salt for each U.S. gallon of water. Mix as directed above.

Reef Crystals Reef Salt
Manufacturer's Mixing Instructions:

Mix Reef Crystals salt with ordinary dechlorinated water. Because water conditions at different locations vary tremendously, a commercial dechlorinator is recommended to completely neutralize any concentrations of chlorine and/or chloramines.
Stir vigorously to mix salt and water. Although the solution of Reef Crystals premium sea salt can be used immediately, it is suggested that you aerate the water until it reaches oxygen/carbon dioxide equilibrium before use.
Use an accurate hydrometer, such as the SeaTest® Hydrometer full range specific gravity meter, to adjust salinity. Recommended specific gravity range: 1.020 to 1.023 at 75°F. If specific gravity is too low, add more Reef Crystals salt. If too high, add more dechlorinated water.
Tightly reseal bag to keep out moisture. Store remaining Reef Crystals salt in a cool, dry place.
Remember:
NEVER mix salt in an aquarium containing animals. In new aquariums, transfer animals to the aquarium after salt is completely mixed and aerated and specific gravity is adjusted correctly.

Water Changes:
A 25% change of aquarium water, done on a monthly basis, is recommended to maintain water quality. To prepare small quanities of Reef Crystals salt, use 1/2 cup of Reef Crystals salt for each U.S. gallon of water. Mix as directed above.

[teesquare]

Actually, I was hoping you would tell us hat you found from phone conversation with Seachem.
Not my place to "enlighten" anyone. I simply tried to explain my approach to things. No absolutes, save for some things that we know to be absolute.
But, I think you will agree there are different ways even to mix salt.
T

[RBU1]

I am not calling Seachem about this....I was given my answer from Seachem I am following the advice from Seachem and am seeing positive results. If others want to call Seachem they are more then welcome. The important part to making salt is to make sure you have the proper salinity. If you are doing a REALLY large water change then oxygen might also be important. But for the normal hobiest doing weekly 20% water changes mix the salt test the salinty and do your water change. Not rocket science....I know there are several ways to do things. I try to keep it simple...Like I said I have been using Salinity Salt for about 6 months now and about a month ago I started using it cloudy and have had no problems at all....

[teesquare]

O.k......
well - I thought you would make the call to Seachem - but I can, not a problem. It may take until tomorrow to reach Lindsey - I know she is in a meeting now.

And - I do believe you try to keep it simple, and - I do a swell.Nothing simplifies things like clear instructions. You can expect a clarification on the mix instructions for Salinity in the very near future.
This is really about about their mix instructions - not Instant Oceans, as they may vary.
T

[Paulairduck]

tested the water after 72 hrs of mixing ALK is now @ 7.0, thats not good!?!?!?!:thumbdown

[teesquare]

And NOW we are getting back to where this all started - and WHY I was asking for anyone - hopefully everyone - to please post their results, and tell us how you mix.

This is something that I am seeing as well Paul. And - I am striving to find answers.
Please check your PH and Calcium.
Thanks,
T

[Boomer]

RBU

I just don't remember all the scientific terms Lindsee used when she explained it to me.

I can explain that with out calling, as it can only be one issue and this issue is the same for all salts but maybe more so for Salinity, which *maybe the best salt out there data sheet whys.


1. If you make a salt mix up to fast the water will cloud, as the local initial pH is high which causes a snow storm and the production of Calcite, which settles to the bottom and will not re- dissolve or preicp out on the sides and bottom of the bucket. Since you are making Calcite you are pulling both Ca++ and CO3-- & HCO3- ( Alk ) out with it = Lower Alk and drop in Ca++ and some Mg++ you may not notice.

1 Ca++ + 1CO3-- (Ak) = CaCO3 = no alk or Ca++ in solution

2. If you make a salt mix up slowly the water will not cloud, as the local initial pH is not high which enough to cause a snow storm and the production of Calcite is very limited = Little or no drop in Alk.

3. SeaChem Salinity, when mixing, is over saturated at mixing more than say other salts. So, the more you let it sit the more Calcite will be produced. So, the quicker you get in your tank the less drop in Alk.

In short, this is marketing hype, for a dissolving issue their salt has that others do not have. You can mix up any salt in 5 min if you use a drill and a paint stirring paddle.

[RBU1]

Boomer I don't understand.......How should I mix it up slowly so it does not cloud?

The moral of the story is the longer you let it mix the more the ALK with drop. If you use it within hours of mixing it will be perfect.

Boomer if you can put it in baby terms I might be able to understand....I am polish you know...

[teesquare]

Boomer - they will be altering their mix instructions within the near future, so I am told.

RBU1, this is kind of what we were talking about as for the different ways that we get used to doing the same basic thing, but that may not be in our best interest, with a different product.
So, I was not trying to badger you about it - but also did not want to lead anyone - just wanted to gather data.
And to further the dilema -

The moral of the story is the longer you let it mix the more the ALK with drop. If you use it within hours of mixing it will be perfect.
And so - what do you expect of the same mix that you just added to the aquarium?

Yeah..it is a pop quiz!:fun4:

T

Any guesses as to why?

[RBU1]

tested the water after 72 hrs of mixing ALK is now @ 7.0, thats not good!?!?!?!:thumbdown

HUM!!!!

Sounds familiar....Now make up another batch and test it within a few hours of mixing it and at a gravity of 35ppt. I bet you get around 10DKH. Like I said you have to use it within a few hours of mixing. It might be cloudy but will not hurt anything. There is a change coming to the Salinity label but it might be a little bit before you see it.

[teesquare]

There is a change coming to the Salinity label but it might be a little bit before you see it.
Er...yep - see post # 54:lol2:

[RBU1]

Boomer - they will be altering their mix instructions within the near future, so I am told.

RBU1, this is kind of what we were talking about as for the different ways that we get used to doing the same basic thing, but that may not be in our best interest, with a different product.
So, I was not trying to badger you about it - but also did not want to lead anyone - just wanted to gather data.
And to further the dilema -

The moral of the story is the longer you let it mix the more the ALK with drop. If you use it within hours of mixing it will be perfect.
And so - what do you expect of the same mix that you just added to the aquarium?

Yeah..it is a pop quiz!:fun4:

T

Any guesses as to why?

I think I failed your quiz.....I don't think your thought process is correct. I don't think alk will continue to drop when its in the aquarium. I assume you are stating that you think the ALK will continue to drop even when its in the tank.

[Boomer]

How should I mix it up slowly so it does not cloud?


Dump less in or add the salt to the water at slower rate. To often people add to much salt to their mixing container at once. So, as that salt enters allot of that salt is in a small area and in that small area the salt is to concentrated and creates a snow storm. You do know what a snow storm is correct ? Let pretend you have a 50 gal container and with-in 10 min you have added all the salt you need for that 50 gals. Now lets add that salt over a time of 1 hr. You will find allot more stuff on the bottom with that all in 10 min vs that over 1 hr time. Because when you add less over time it can dissolve more readily with no snow storms. A even worse case is to put the salt in a MT container and then add the water. The other issue is people often do not have enough circulation, as the lower the circulation the more issues one will have with deposits and lowering the Alk, Ca++ and Mg++. Some like to dump it in fast as this pulls heavy metals out of the water as precip s that can not redissolve. Then they just add back in more Ca++ and buffer for that lost.

[RBU1]

Well when you talk to L tomorrow......Ask her about the ALK continuing to drop when its in the tank.....

I can't see that being the case. She explained it to me again about 10 minutes ago but my memory is not good enough to remember all she stated. Basically most salts do not have all parameters at or around normal sea levels like Salinity does. When you reduce an item such as magnesium or calcium and replace it with more salt the mix will be clear but will be missing something....

[teesquare]

I think I failed your quiz.....I don't think your thought process is correct. I don't think alk will continue to drop when its in the aquarium. I assume you are stating that you think the ALK will continue to drop even when its in the tank.


Nope...you assumption is incorrect!....well - maybe.....

I have actually seen 2 different cases where it di bring the Ph and kh down. But - with smaller water changes, quite the opposite should happen. Again - I believe it is a volumetric dilema.
So - rather than changing a large amount all at once, if the water changes are spaced out, and we pay attention to the Ph and kh in the tank, we can assure that does not happen.
I have done it to myself - ( which is a sort of un-intended creedo :))
T

[RBU1]

Well I change 50 gallons every Sunday on the 300 and 7 gallons every Sunday on the 34......

I add 8 tsp of baking soda every day and 8 tsp calcium pellets evey day.

[teesquare]

I should have been moe clear:
On two occasions I have done large water changes, 150, and 325 gallons with Salinity.These were done on a system of 425 gallons of water in it. I saw Ph an Kh DROP in those cases, and proportionate to the gallonage changed.
And - the salt had been mixed up for a few days.
But with smaller water changes, I see no real change in Ph or Kh. I am betting we will have more discussions with Seachem about this, and - the outcome will be a much better understanding about this.
T

[RBU1]

If you would have only mixed the large water change for a few hours then did the change you would not have had any drop at all......

Just curious why would you do that large of a water change anyway?

[teesquare]

I had been using another brand, that had some quality control issues, and by the time I checked all the peramters - everything was WAY out of whack - I was losing some corals, and decided to rectify the situation quickly - because I was concerned that by drawing it out over time, the losses would be too great. Was a risk, but it worked out well.
And of course, my fear of using freshly mixed water, - old habit ( and maybe one that I can get past via this discussion...but I have much more reading to do) - definitely contributed.
T

[Boomer]

When you reduce an item such as magnesium or calcium and replace it with more salt the mix will be clear but will be missing something....

True and an old trick is to add more NaCl, which lowers the activity coefficient of the water making 'salts' more soluble.

You must mean Lindsey Kayal, who is the head of Technical Support at Seachem. She is a biologists but seems fairly sharp.

Basically most salts do not have all parameters at or around normal sea levels like Salinity does.

And this is not so. Tell them you want a full blown data sheet of other salts in this hobby to prove that claim. They also confuse you on their data sheets as NSW is given in g/kg and in the Scientific world that equal ppm and not mg/l, which they convert to so it look like the is more of it than there is. Their pH and Alk is much higher than NSW and NSW has nowhere near that pH or Alk. But I have not issue with their pH and Alk. They also do their conversion wrong as they use a Density of 1.026 and that is if the water temp is 15 C. At the temp we use it is more like 25 C, which is 1.023 D ( Density is NOT specific Gravity).

So their claim at our temp of Ca++ for example they give as

422 NSW ..............................should be 420.7 mg/ l = 411 ppm

409 Their Salinity salt low.........should be 407.8 mg/ l = 398 ppm

435 Their Salinity salt high........should be 433.7 mg/ l = 424 ppm

But as you can see this is no real argument.

I told Greg, CEO of SeaChem awhile back, to get off this mg / l thing and stay with the norm of ppm. It gets people all messed up.

[teesquare]

I told Greg, CEO of SeaChem awhile back, to get off this mg / l thing and stay with the norm of ppm. It gets people all messed up.

I agree Boomer - and similarly, they scoff at the use of dkh for a standard unit of measure of alkalinity...Wonder why the resistance to adopt a common standard that is so well recognized?

T

[Paulairduck]

How should I mix it up slowly so it does not cloud?


Dump less in or add the salt to the water at slower rate. To often people add to much salt to their mixing container at once. So, as that salt enters allot of that salt is in a small area and in that small area the salt is to concentrated and creates a snow storm. You do know what a snow storm is correct ? Let pretend you have a 50 gal container and with-in 10 min you have added all the salt you need for that 50 gals. Now lets add that salt over a time of 1 hr. You will find allot more stuff on the bottom with that all in 10 min vs that over 1 hr time. Because when you add less over time it can dissolve more readily with no snow storms. A even worse case is to put the salt in a MT container and then add the water. The other issue is people often do not have enough circulation, as the lower the circulation the more issues one will have with deposits and lowering the Alk, Ca++ and Mg++. Some like to dump it in fast as this pulls heavy metals out of the water as precip s that can not redissolve. Then they just add back in more Ca++ and buffer for that lost.

this is what happened to my first batch of this salt, I over added the salt to a five gallon mix and had to dilute it with another 5 gallons, this must have caused the over saturation of the mix, next water change will hopefully be different with less salt mix added to the 5 gallon water change

I went by the normal volume of salt per five gallons using DD. I know one thing, this bucket of salt is going to last me quite a long time compared to other brands that I have used!!

[teesquare]

This brings me to another interesting point, which I had forgotten - when following the directions for amount of salt to water volume - has anyone else experienced a considerably higher s.g. than expected?
Thanks,
T

[RBU1]

I use a glass 2 cup measuring cup. I get it heaping (around 3 cups) and dump 8 of them into 50 gallons. Gets me right to 35ppt.

[teesquare]

I am very specific about measuring salt to mix.....I suppose it was just an early batch issue that I am thinking of.
T

[RBU1]

I am very specific about measuring salt to mix.....I suppose it was just an early batch issue that I am thinking of.
T

NO you specific....:hmm4:

I never would have guessed that.....:smokin:

[teesquare]

It's o.k....You can say "anal retentive".....:thumbsup:
T

[teesquare]

Got a call back from Lindsey -
Recognition that the possibility of cloudy (undissolved) mix could be detrimental to sensitive organisms, tho "in our experience, we have not witnessed any problems". This is fair and, along the lines of what RBU1 is saying. And she added that it would be irresponsible to presume that adding cloudy/un-dissolved mix to a system with particulary sensitive animals could not be potentially bad.
We each need to draw our own conclusions here. if you are comfortable with it - fine, and if not - then don't.
I guess I come back to this: if the salt has not had the opportunity to completely dissolve, how can it possibly be percieved/accepted by corals as chemically compatible with what they have been accustomed to? And what about the lowering of the alk. after mixing, and not using it for a couple of days? ( Reports form users of Tropic Marin Pro have stated the opposite. Low initial alk, but it climbs after mixing for a day or two) Still have some thinking to do about this....
However - if you are doing comparitively small water changes to the overal volume of the system -probably far less chance of any "shocking" of animals.

We also talked about teh impact of the temperature of the water influencing the solubility of the salt.
It seems that ideally if the water temp. is 73-75F, clarity is achieved much faster. But at 78 and above - one gets precipitation....
So - the selection of anhydrous ingredients to make Salinity, which helps to make a product that can fit 225 gal of salt @ 1.026 ....also creates a significant exothermic reaction when mixing it up, if you pour in all of the salt needed to make the batch inteneded - at once ( Thank you Boomer for pointing that out!)

So it seems that what I have learned here is this:

In order to achieve the clarity that I am more comfortable with, (- and more importantly - within the timeframe recommended, so that the alk. does not drop -) I should start with cooler water - or add the salt much more slowly, keeping the temperature rise to a minimum. (Perhaps placing a digital thermometer with remote sensor in the mixing vat...?)

T

[RBU1]

Thank You for the write up. I can tell you that using the salt cloudy has not had any negative effects on any corals in my tank. Granted my tank is mostly softies but still I have not seen any issues using it cloudy.

[teesquare]

My pleasure RB!
You know, I think it is time I try something a little new.... I think because I have almost all SPS in my tank - it just makes me a bit more hesitant sometimes. I will try it on a smaller water change, and - based on the talk with Linsey today, I think I can find a "comfortable compromise" that allows me to get clarity faster, and have a higher Kh mix going in!
I do trust Seachem and their products. There is no company that I have dealt with so dedicated to making good products for us.
One of the thangs about them that many here may not know -: If you are going to work at Seachem, you WILL have an aquarium, in your office - and you WILL maintain it top notch. Makes it much more acceptable to take advice from , and place trust in folks that you KNOW keep an aquarium.
T

[RBU1]

Keep us posted....When you perform your compromise......

You will be fine even if you use it cloudy.....TRUST ME!!!!!

[teesquare]

"TRUST ME...?" This from a guy from Joisey???:lol2::wavehand:

I may try it first on afrag system full of soft coral...and work my way up to ( liquor in hand) my SPS system:lmao:
T

[pimp2daizzo]

My pleasure RB!
You know, I think it is time I try something a little new.... I think because I have almost all SPS in my tank - it just makes me a bit more hesitant sometimes. I will try it on a smaller water change, and - based on the talk with Linsey today, I think I can find a "comfortable compromise" that allows me to get clarity faster, and have a higher Kh mix going in!
I do trust Seachem and their products. There is no company that I have dealt with so dedicated to making good products for us.
One of the thangs about them that many here may not know -: If you are going to work at Seachem, you WILL have an aquarium, in your office - and you WILL maintain it top notch. Makes it much more acceptable to take advice from , and place trust in folks that you KNOW keep an aquarium.
T

true , i have a friend there with a 150 in his office

[Paulairduck]

Keep us posted....When you perform your compromise......

You will be fine even if you use it cloudy.....TRUST ME!!!!!

I would never place a cloudy mix in my tank with corals that i have spent thousands of dollars on. I do not feel that is the proper reccomendation to anyone that wants to have long term success in this hobby.

One thing I have learned, "that things in the aquarium die a lot quicker than they grow!!!"

[MedRed]

I will start mixing at a lower temperature. I already mix really slowly to just to make sure none of the salt hits the bottom before it can dissolve.

[teesquare]

Remember Boomer's advice as well - that adding the salt to your RO/DI water slower will help as well.
Maybe half the amount needed - wait for a couple of hours? ( or overnite? ) and add the remaining amount needed.

Hopefully Boomer can elaborate a little on what he thinks will work best in this regard.

T

[RBU1]

I would never place a cloudy mix in my tank with corals that i have spent thousands of dollars on. I do not feel that is the proper reccomendation to anyone that wants to have long term success in this hobby.

One thing I have learned, "that things in the aquarium die a lot quicker than they grow!!!"

Well I don't have corals I spent thousands on.....Only fish.....LOL

[RBU1]

I would never place a cloudy mix in my tank with corals that i have spent thousands of dollars on. I do not feel that is the proper reccomendation to anyone that wants to have long term success in this hobby.

One thing I have learned, "that things in the aquarium die a lot quicker than they grow!!!"

Well if your willing to try you will see it will not harm anything. And you will be happy with the results. The new label on the Salinty will make you aware it will be cloudy. I know Seachem has been using it on their SPS systems and have no problems.

[teesquare]

And...the "what" you keep in each individual's tank may be more important to the descision of how well mixed/dissolved the salt needs to be.
Basic rule of thumb - IMHO - is that the SPS corals I keep, and have kept are as a group much more sensitive to any change, even ones that are positive.

A system predominated by soft corals, or fish - is generally thought of as more forgiving.
T

[RBU1]

And...the "what" you keep in each individual's tank may be more important to the descision of how well mixed/dissolved the salt needs to be.
Basic rule of thumb - IMHO - is that the SPS corals I keep, and have kept are as a group much more sensitive to any change, even ones that are positive.

A system predominated by soft corals, or fish - is generally thought of as more forgiving.
T

Try it on your frag system as you stated and post your results.

[teesquare]

I will RB. I am due some water changes this coming week in one system, where I have a couple of LPS colonies, but no softies right now ( tho - that is what I originally set up that system for...)
I will try to remember to take pictures of the corals before the water change, and after.
T

[NWDiver]

Thanks for the thread, it was a good read.
I too use salinity but I don't have the mix issues. It sounds like water temp and slow addition is how I am getting lucky.
I don't add air, but I use two pumps to mix, and the water temp in the 55 is ~73F with the pumps running, probably starting at ~65F when I add the salt.
I have been checking the alk the morning after I mix and all is well. The trouble is that I have not been checking the alk before I add it to the system, and that often is several days later. I plan to do a daily alk/Ca test over the weekend and let it mix for a few days to see what I get.
I don't understand how the alk would drop (assuming that there is not high CO2) after allowing the water to mix for a few days, but we will see.
teesquare> I too use less than the label states to reach 1.026. Generally I stop about 2 cups short, test it the next day and end up adding less than a cup to reach target. This is in 50 gal.

-Todd

[RRaider]

Remember Boomer's advice as well - that adding the salt to your RO/DI water slower will help as well.
Maybe half the amount needed - wait for a couple of hours? ( or overnite? ) and add the remaining amount needed.

Hopefully Boomer can elaborate a little on what he thinks will work best in this regard.

T

I don't use Salinity, but I mix my salt very slowly. I add about half cup about every 15+ minutes, longer when I get distracted, which is often. This is in a 20gallon brute so if I was mixing a larger volume I would be comfortable increasing the amount of salt I added at a time. This may be over kill and Salinity might need a different method but this works for me. I also believe that if you mix it slowly and at a lower temp as you mentioned you will avoid the precip and resulting drop in your alk, even if it sits for a few days.

[Swanwillow]

~Here's for bumping a semi-old thread~

Where is a good place to purchase Salinity? I tried on amazon, but their supplier stank.. can't get ahold of them, and they haven't sent it out. But they placed the 'ship by' date so far out in the future that my hands are tied til the 17th. (ordered on the 2nd)

[odiest]

I believe that salinity is only available at the LFS. Seachem doesn't make the aquavitro line available to online stores.

David

[Swanwillow]

Since posting this I found it on a few online stores. from 84 + shipping to 120+ shipping... now if any of them are better than what experiences I've had...

[RBU1]

Well I made the switch.....From the Salinity to Oceanic. There were a couple reasons for the switch. The cloudiness did play a role but not a major one. It was a pain for me to get the salt. My local store was not carrying it so they had to order it for me everytime I needed salt. It became just a pain in the butt.....

I have only mixed up 50 gallons of the Oceanic and have only done one water change. I can say that it was clear in a matter of an hour. I tested with my API and Salifert kit and here is what I get....
Alk 10-11
Cal 520
Mag 1440
PH 7.9

I am real happy with those results. I may be able to cut back on my dosing.....We shall see. So far so good on the Oceanic. I did notice it takes more salt to get me to my 35 ppt. The salinity took 8 heaping, glass, 2 cup measuring cups and the Oceanic takes 9 heaping....

[rogersb]

Thanks for the thread, it was a good read.
I too use salinity but I don't have the mix issues. It sounds like water temp and slow addition is how I am getting lucky.
I don't add air, but I use two pumps to mix, and the water temp in the 55 is ~73F with the pumps running, probably starting at ~65F when I add the salt.
I have been checking the alk the morning after I mix and all is well. The trouble is that I have not been checking the alk before I add it to the system, and that often is several days later. I plan to do a daily alk/Ca test over the weekend and let it mix for a few days to see what I get.
I don't understand how the alk would drop (assuming that there is not high CO2) after allowing the water to mix for a few days, but we will see.
teesquare> I too use less than the label states to reach 1.026. Generally I stop about 2 cups short, test it the next day and end up adding less than a cup to reach target. This is in 50 gal.

-Todd


Did you ever check your water after letting it sit? I normally make 20g at a time. I make 10g for the week's change and 10g for any emergency that might come up. Yesterday I did a change with the extra 10g from the water I made 2 weeks ago. I checked the alk with 2 test kits. Both are API, and I know these are not the favorite here, but it's what is available to me locally. I got 9 on both kits.

I do have to give a small disclaimer though, I have a bucket of red sea coral pro I am trying to use up so when I make my water I use two cups of that salt along with the salinity. This time I will make a batch with only salinity and see if the alk drops over extended time.

[DeepSeaBeauti]

So ive been using this salt now for a few months. I actualy started one of the other post about how bad the salt smelt, and how cloudy it makes my tank. But i have to admit that since i started using this salt (compaired the the tropic marin) my coraline has exploded, my soft corals look amazing, and the water looks great. I also should note that the water does not get as cloudy as it did when i first started using the salt. As a lot of ppl sugested it was probably due to an inbalance in my water chemistry. Also, I do not let the water sit after mixing, It is added about an hour after mixing. This was recomened from the manufactura. This still made the tank a littl cloudy, but did not leave a sediment covering my corals. More recently i began doing small frequent water changes. After thouroughly reading the article here on RC about water changes, i began to do small frequent changes instead of my usual 20% bulk change. My fish seem happyer, my tank is definatly doing better, And i dont get huge chemistry changes that you get from quick bulk water changes. Aside from the price, your going to love this salt. Also check out that article!

[disc1]

I use this salt and mix slowly like Boomer recommended. I do this because it clogs my powerhead in the tub if I go too fast, but I guess it serves another purpose too. I have noticed that even if the water gets clear before I add it to my tank, it gets a bit cloudy as soon as I turn the pumps back on. And my skimmer goes CRAZY. It looks like someone dumped a bottle of Dawn in the tank and let the skimmer try to get it out. I have to turn it off for about an hour or two after I do a water change.

[kv2wr1]

For people using this salt, are you finding that you dose less or not at all?

[Humu Humu]

This is so strange. I have been using this salt, and I get a heavy precip on my mixing tub. After one day I have floating white chunky debris, which usually disappears after a day or so. I mix a 25 gallon batch at a time to use for regular water changes. I'll try making the mix more slowly and see what happens, but I was also thinking of switching due to the precipitate that remains in the tub, no matter what. Maybe it's just a mixing procedure, as Boomer stated.

[gh0st]

On my second bucket now, and loving Salinty.

I haven't had any of the previously mentioned cloudiness issues or Alk problems, but my standard water mixing regime is:

Add Straight Cold Water.
Start water mixing with a strong Powerhead.
Add Salinty.
Begin Heating until Display tank temp is reached.

By starting cold and heating, the water is crystal clear within an hour or two, and a strong heater will usually have the water to temp shortly after.

[DeepSeaBeauti]

I usualy do the opposite of ghost. I add the salt to my mix bucket first, And use warm water to begin the mixing processe. With a pump, and a heater running i add the mixed water water within an hour. But as stated in a previous reply, i now add my water in small amounts almost daily.

Im loving this salt though, I have found that i cut my 2 part dose in half. My tank is looking beautiful.

[buzzy]

would I have to keep adjusting the dosing pump each time I do a water change because of the high KH in this salt if I was trying to keep my KH at 8?

[bertoni]

Yes, that's likely what you'd end up doing.

[acesq]

would I have to keep adjusting the dosing pump each time I do a water change because of the high KH in this salt if I was trying to keep my KH at 8?

I also use a salt mix that has much higher alk and calcium levels than I keep in my DT. I shut off my dosers for a day after each 10% weekly water change. I find this is the best way for my parameters to stay stable throughout the week.

[Paulairduck]

I have had very good luck with this salt, got two buckets now, been mixing 5 gallons a week for my 60 gallon. the key is to add the salt slowly to the water and let it mix. I add the amount of salt for 1.026 salinity to five gallons of water over a period of 2 hrs, works great and mixes clear, using a koralia 3 in a 5 gallon bucket

params are right on everytime I check

alk 10.0
cal 410

[MedRed]

I have had very good luck with this salt, got two buckets now, been mixing 5 gallons a week for my 60 gallon. the key is to add the salt slowly to the water and let it mix. I add the amount of salt for 1.026 salinity to five gallons of water over a period of 2 hrs, works great and mixes clear, using a koralia 3 in a 5 gallon bucket

params are right on everytime I check

alk 10.0
cal 410

2nd that. I heat the water to 72 degrees. I have a 32 gallon brute container. I don't start mixing until it's full. I add two cups at a time. I pepper the water with the salt. This takes around 5-7 actual minutes. I wait two hours and add two more cups.

It's probably overkill, but now I get zero precipitate. And the water clears super fast.

[moliken]

i just got my first bucket of salinity at lfs. THEN i read the thread. now i am confused, as my w/c system seems different from everyone else's in the thread and i'm concerned. i had been using tropic marine and r/c in combination, as t/m didn't keep my alk up. now i'm switching to the salinity, but based upon the reading about alk issues and cloudiness, i'm unsure.
the system is nearly automatic.
i empty and fill 3 gals a day in my system electronically--push a button--sump empties, push another, then refills.
this next part concerns the salt
i then pour 3 gal rodi into a 20 long, half filled for stability, then i add 615 grams [no cup measurement for me] of salt, mix with a powerhead, and wait until it's dissolved. some days, i do the w/c immediately [like i missed adding salt yesterday, so added my usual amount, and 10 mins after it dissolved, i did the w/c] and some days i wait 24 hrs.
temp is unimportant since it's only 3 gals, and by the time it hits the tank, it's nearly perfect.
opinions, pls. i have not opened the bucket. should i return it and go back to t/m and r/c. the salinity brand is a decent amount cheaper than either one at my lfs [$.43/gal for r/c, $.53/g for t/m and $.40/g for salinity]

[chasekwe]

I use this salt, works great and I have no cloudy-ness issues.

I start with cold RO/DI H2O.
Throw in a power head.
Throw in a heater.
Throw in the salt.
Wait for the water to reach DT temp.
Into tank.**

(**Its not perfectly clear at this point but its close enough that when mixed with the display volume no difference can be noted in clarity.)

[moliken]

i just got my first bucket of salinity at lfs. THEN i read the thread. now i am confused, as my w/c system seems different from everyone else's in the thread and i'm concerned. i had been using tropic marine and r/c in combination, as t/m didn't keep my alk up. now i'm switching to the salinity, but based upon the reading about alk issues and cloudiness, i'm unsure.
the system is nearly automatic.
i empty and fill 3 gals a day in my system electronically--push a button--sump empties, push another, then refills.
this next part concerns the salt
i then pour 3 gal rodi into a 20 long, half filled for stability, then i add 615 grams [no cup measurement for me] of salt, mix with a powerhead, and wait until it's dissolved. some days, i do the w/c immediately [like i missed adding salt yesterday, so added my usual amount, and 10 mins after it dissolved, i did the w/c] and some days i wait 24 hrs.
temp is unimportant since it's only 3 gals, and by the time it hits the tank, it's nearly perfect.
opinions, pls. i have not opened the bucket. should i return it and go back to t/m and r/c. the salinity brand is a decent amount cheaper than either one at my lfs [$.43/gal for r/c, $.53/g for t/m and $.40/g for salinity]
quoting myself, since my w/c is daily. results of first w/c were excellent. alk at 10+ when first mixed, then the same 24 hrs later. fairly cloudy when first mixed, nothing really awful, but 24 hrs lkater fine. i used about 40 grams less than for the other salt, which means every 15 changes is a free one, saving a bit more money. sg 1.0255 refracto plus floating hydro.
very satisfied

[akindbro4u]

2nd that. I heat the water to 72 degrees. I have a 32 gallon brute container. I don't start mixing until it's full. I add two cups at a time. I pepper the water with the salt. This takes around 5-7 actual minutes. I wait two hours and add two more cups.

It's probably overkill, but now I get zero precipitate. And the water clears super fast.

This is how I use it. I switched from reefers best to this salt due to availability, and I must say it is a great salt. I have no complaints. Mixing slowly is the key, however I have not seen any adverse effects of using it in it's cloudy state. I have seen a slight drop in dKh if I let it sit for too long however. If it is not used, in about a week I usually end up having to dump it, because it have dropped in alk, and has developed the lumps on the surface. weird, but could just be the temp fluctuations from it sitting at room temp with no heater, effecting the PH. I guess I will have to run a test batch.

[wrimda]

Hello, Hope people don't mind to much that I brought this thread back to life again.
I just did my first W/C with this salt and was wondering if reefers are still happy with the salt, gone back to something else, and maybe any new thoughts?

Thanks

[Swanwillow]

still using it, gonna buy another bucket soon.

[rogersb]

I still use it. Probably 5 buckets or so. I'm running low and will be buying more. I can get it for roughly $70 a bucket so the cost difference is not much between other salts when you figure it mixes to 225 gallons @ 1.025.

[Randy Holmes-Farley]

What do you users like about it relative to your previous salts?

[Ralph ATL]

I love because it's simple & easy to use. 2 to 24 hours or so before water change, I mix! All parems are always spot on with supplementing Calcium & Alk only on a doser. Rarely mag.

It's a mix and use salt that has high Calcium, High Mag, excellent Alk (9 or so), blah, blah, blah...it's relatively cheap, too! I paid 70 bucks for the 220 gallon bucket.

[disc1]

What do you users like about it relative to your previous salts?

I am using it because I am getting it for super cheap. I've been through a few buckets and I haven't had any issues. I am dosing 2-part but not much when I keep up with water changes. My pH stays nice and stable and I use the bicarbonate recipe.

I have noticed that this salt precipitates like crazy if you mix it too fast. I commented on another thread about a picture of your mixing bucket after "a few" batches of IO and I can make mine look like that with one batch of Salinity. I think it is because it mixes at such a high pH. When it initially mixes it gets really cloudy with, I assume, MgOH2. After a few minutes that goes away and once I can see the bottom and blow anything off of it I add more salt.

The only way I have found to avoid the precip is to mix really slow and with water as cool as I can get. This time of year the water is about 65F when I mix and I don't have anywhere near as much of a problem. The cloudiness lasts longer, but there is almost no scale at the end.

[Reverend Reefer]

i've been using it for a couple months now. i've had to turn off my 2 part dosing pumps altogether and only run kalk in auto top off now.

since reading this thread, i've tried mixing it different ways and found that when i run a heater when mixing right away, i get cloudiness. but when i mix it with cold ro/di water first, wait a couple hours, then add turn on the heater, the water is clear. i also did find the drop in alk if i leave it for a week.

i like the salt mainly because i use less to get it to 1.026 and i don't need 2-part. my system demands aren't as high as an sps tank though but it seems a lot of you have decreased 2 part dosing as well. with previous salts, IO, oceanic, red sea, i've had to run the 2 part with kalk just to maintain levels. the salt is a bit pricey in my area, which i believe is related to the hype, but i save money on both salt mix and 2-part, so i feel like its worth it.

[Reverend Reefer]

i've been using it for a couple months now. i've had to turn off my 2 part dosing pumps altogether and only run kalk in auto top off now.

since reading this thread, i've tried mixing it different ways and found that when i run a heater when mixing right away, i get cloudiness. but when i mix it with cold ro/di water first, wait a couple hours, then add turn on the heater, the water is clear. i also did find the drop in alk if i leave it for a week.

i like the salt mainly because i use less to get it to 1.026 and i don't need 2-part. my system demands aren't as high as an sps tank though but it seems a lot of you have decreased 2 part dosing as well. with previous salts, IO, oceanic, red sea, i've had to run the 2 part with kalk just to maintain levels. the salt is a bit pricey in my area, which i believe is related to the hype, but i save money on both salt mix and 2-part, so i feel like its worth it.

[MikeandNicole]

I have been using it for over a year as my primary salt with weekly %10 water changes on my tanks (currently 57 and 45 that I use this salt for). I like it, and I know I have no scientific claims to back any of this up, but my tanks like it. My 45g I do zero dosing in, just 5g a week water change and the tank looks amazing. It is a mix of zoas, LPS and SPS and they are all happy and colorful. I have had solid growth, not shocking the world, but they are getting growth. Because the tank has done so well, I have not tested the params in a long time, I just check salinity.

The 57g I do supplement as it is a heavier SPS tank and my alk was falling if I did not dose anything. I don't dose a ton, but I was not dosing before I switched to Aquavitro so I don't have any basis for comparison as far as dosing goes. I know before I started dosing I still had good color but not great growth. With the dosing the tank did very well, again unscientific just what I observed.

As far as mixing goes, I mix overnight. I have always done this with any salt I used, don't ask me why it is how I started it is how I do it. The water is always clear the next day and ready to go. I do use a heater and mix with a MJ1200. I do get the standard residuals on the mixing bucket and always have. I generally will clean the mixing container every 2 or so months as the residual on the bottom can build up. Maybe I am not doing it perfectly but it is what I have been doing, and I like it.

One last note, I switch from TMP and the difference between the amount of salt I used to get to 1.025 was amazing. In the scooper I was using I went from 3 scoops to 2 scoops and I am only doing 10-15g a week so these buckets last me forever. I can also get it relatively cheap from a local LFS so of course that helps. I think I am on my 4 bucket.

[Randy Holmes-Farley]

i've been using it for a couple months now. i've had to turn off my 2 part dosing pumps altogether and only run kalk in auto top off now.

since reading this thread, i've tried mixing it different ways and found that when i run a heater when mixing right away, i get cloudiness. but when i mix it with cold ro/di water first, wait a couple hours, then add turn on the heater, the water is clear. i also did find the drop in alk if i leave it for a week.

i like the salt mainly because i use less to get it to 1.026 and i don't need 2-part. my system demands aren't as high as an sps tank though but it seems a lot of you have decreased 2 part dosing as well. with previous salts, IO, oceanic, red sea, i've had to run the 2 part with kalk just to maintain levels. the salt is a bit pricey in my area, which i believe is related to the hype, but i save money on both salt mix and 2-part, so i feel like its worth it.


I do not understand folks claims that they need less dosing of calcum and alkalinity with this salt. It does not seem to have as much calcium as many mixes, and its alkalinity level is quite ordinary.

If this effect is real, less dosing might actually mean less hard coral growth. ???

[Reverend Reefer]

i don't understand it either.

as a side note, i do get white residual coating my powerhead, heater, and bucket. its really white compared to the brownish residual i used to get with IO RC, coralife and oceanic. i believe the brownish residual was clay from the other salts but i'm not sure what the white residuals are with seachem salinity....

[MedRed]

I get the same white powdery substance.

[wrimda]

We were using TM pro and switched for three straight w/c's and get the residue in the mixing bucket (20G wk) as for Cal, alk no change with dosing pump at all