Matt's 10g Nano Reef

[Clavius]

I love my 3g Pico and I've learned a lot setting it up. But I think the limitations of such a small tank outweigh what is good/fun about it. So I've tentatively decided to upgrade to a 10g tank. This will be big enough so that I can have a little more freedom and is still small enough so that it will be easy to move should I need to move it.

Here's the equipment I have so far:
-Standard 10g tank
-Standard AGA stand for 10g tank (I might scratch this and build my own)
-100w Stealth Pro heater
-AGA glass top

And equipment currently on my Pico:
-Vortech MP10
-Tunze Osmolator ATO
-ReefKeeper Lite controller

There are two things I need to figure out before I upgrade to the 10g: First is filtration. Do I want to use an HOB filter (not really) or drill the 10g and put a 10g sump underneath it. I would rather drill the tank and have a sump. But the problem with that is I've never drilled a tank and I know nothing about plumbing and setting up a sump, etc. Also, is it even possible to plumb a setup in such a way that it would be easily disconnected in case I needed to move the setup? If I drill it I was planning on having a center overflow with two returns. I don't think that is too complicated... ??

Second problem is lighting. I already have one 12K PAR38. So I could just buy another one and then somehow rig two standard light fixtures over the tank. Or I could buy a used Sunpod or something. I'd rather do LEDs or metal halide. There aren't many options with T5's over a 20" tank.

This would be the fourth tank I've setup in the 2 years I've been reefing. My goal would be to take everything I've learned and make it a really great setup. But also make it simplified enough so that it could be easily broken down and moved. I'm planning on taking my time with this one as I would really like to learn more about plumbing and sumps, etc. Any thoughts are welcome!

[Clavius]

http://i638.photobucket.com/albums/uu105/mnosam/photo-7.jpg

[Clavius]

So here is the standard 10g tank I'm going to use as the sump. I've drawn on the glass my plan for it. The water would flow from right to left, with the center area being for chaeto/a fuge, then it flows through the baffles and to the return area where the pump would be. I'd love to get some input on this as it's the first sump I've ever planned. Note: The top hash mark on the far right line is where water would flow over.

http://i638.photobucket.com/albums/uu105/mnosam/IMG_1701.jpg

[Clavius]

Another shot of the planned sump with Tunze 9002 in it:

http://i638.photobucket.com/albums/uu105/mnosam/IMG_1702.jpg

[Clavius]

Ordered the display tank!

http://www.greenleafaquariums.com/glass-rimless-aquariums/rimless-aquarium-48-l.html

http://www.greenleafaquariums.com/images/aquarium-48_zm.jpg

[cherubfish pair]

If I drill it I was planning on having a center overflow with two returns. I don't think that is too complicated... ??Here's a 3-sided 4x2x4 overflow I bought from wetdryfilter.com
http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j289/mkp59923/overflow.jpg
Also, is it even possible to plumb a setup in such a way that it would be easily disconnected in case I needed to move the setup?Try not to glue anything other than silicone rubber on the overflow. Use threads as much as possible.

Confidence booster: Practice drilling on a scrap piece of glass before drilling a tank.

[cody6766]

That looks like it's going to be really cool. I think you have more invested in the box the sump is sitting on than you would in the entire system though. What vintage? I had the 04 a while back and it was definitely good. Overpriced, but good.

[Clavius]

That looks like it's going to be really cool. I think you have more invested in the box the sump is sitting on than you would in the entire system though. What vintage? I had the 04 a while back and it was definitely good. Overpriced, but good.

Hah! It was the '07 vintage but the box is empty unfortunately. I work in the wine business.

[Clavius]

Re-arranged the sump plan a bit. Skimmer is now on right side:

http://i638.photobucket.com/albums/uu105/mnosam/IMG_1703.jpg

[asacopoo]

how are you hanging those two par 38s?

[Clavius]

how are you hanging those two par 38s?

Not sure if I'm even going to use PAR38's. I may go with a 150w metal halide.

[asacopoo]

oh... true

[Clavius]

Re-did my sump design:

http://i638.photobucket.com/albums/uu105/mnosam/Sump1-1.jpg

[Clavius]

Tank was packaged very well and is in one piece! I also received my Glass-Holes overflow kit and return kit today. Here are some pics:

http://i638.photobucket.com/albums/uu105/mnosam/11g/IMG_1704.jpg

http://i638.photobucket.com/albums/uu105/mnosam/11g/IMG_1705.jpg

http://i638.photobucket.com/albums/uu105/mnosam/11g/IMG_1706.jpg

http://i638.photobucket.com/albums/uu105/mnosam/11g/IMG_1707.jpg

http://i638.photobucket.com/albums/uu105/mnosam/11g/IMG_1708.jpg

http://i638.photobucket.com/albums/uu105/mnosam/11g/IMG_1709.jpg

http://i638.photobucket.com/albums/uu105/mnosam/11g/IMG_1711.jpg

[Clavius]

Just ordered a light. I went with the JBJ Viper Deluxe 150w. I'd rather have a 150w Sunpod but they're getting harder to find.

[will46r]

Very nice! I'll be following this one closely, it's kinda the direction I plan on heading in the future.

[SaltSolutions1]

I'm glad I saw this before I bought the Picotope. I was wondering about the same thing. (if I was going to be too limited.) I decided on going with a 10g as well. Good luck with the new setup. I'll can't wait for more pics.

[Clavius]

Bought a cordless drill today along with another cheapo 10g tank to practice on. I should be drilling on the practice tank once the drill charges!

[Clavius]

Drilling complete! Phew, that was nerve wracking. Time for a glass of bourbon. Pics of the tank in a few...

[Clavius]

http://i638.photobucket.com/albums/uu105/mnosam/IMG_1715.jpg

[Clavius]

Here's another pic. In the first picture I had the return bulkhead on backwards.

http://i638.photobucket.com/albums/uu105/mnosam/IMG_1716.jpg

[clowndude]

Tank was packaged very well and is in one piece! I also received my Glass-Holes overflow kit and return kit today. Here are some pics:

http://i638.photobucket.com/albums/uu105/mnosam/11g/IMG_1704.jpg

http://i638.photobucket.com/albums/uu105/mnosam/11g/IMG_1705.jpg

http://i638.photobucket.com/albums/uu105/mnosam/11g/IMG_1706.jpg

http://i638.photobucket.com/albums/uu105/mnosam/11g/IMG_1707.jpg

http://i638.photobucket.com/albums/uu105/mnosam/11g/IMG_1708.jpg

http://i638.photobucket.com/albums/uu105/mnosam/11g/IMG_1709.jpg

http://i638.photobucket.com/albums/uu105/mnosam/11g/IMG_1711.jpg

Are you saving the whiskey for when the tank gets running? LOL. Looking good so far. Can't wait to see it running.

[knpjdad]

Tagging along!

[stagger_lee]

That GLA tank looks super nice. Cant wait to see it up and runnin! :beer:

[Clavius]

A few questions for you plumbing experts:

-Do I HAVE to use PVC to plumb this thing both to and from the sump? The reason I ask is because using PVC with cement, etc. seems so permanent. I was hoping to setup this tank in a way that would allow me to disconnect it easily should I need to move the tank in the future.

-Should I use teflon tape when attaching the bulkhead sides together? I know glass-holes.com recommends using plumber's grease on the gaskets and I plan on doing that.

I know I'll have more questions as I'm a total noob to plumbing. But I can't think of them at the moment. Here's a picture of the back of the tank with the bulkheads temporarily installed:

http://i638.photobucket.com/albums/uu105/mnosam/IMG_1718.jpg

[cherubfish pair]

-Do I HAVE to use PVC to plumb this thing both to and from the sump? The reason I ask is because using PVC with cement, etc. seems so permanent. I was hoping to setup this tank in a way that would allow me to disconnect it easily should I need to move the tank in the future.

Put female threaded x slip pvc adapters on your bulkhead fittings and overflow kits. Then attach male threaded x inserts and put vinyl hoses on the insert ends.

I will see if I can drag out some fittings in the next couple of days and take pictures of how to set it up. :p

[Clavius]

I will see if I can drag out some fittings in the next couple of days and take pictures of how to set it up. :p
That would be helpful because what you said above that is greek to me. lol

[Gold Stripe]

No, do not use tef tape on the bulkhead nuts themselves but yes on any fitting that you screw into the bulkhead fitting outside the tank.

You can get hose barb fittings and use vinyl hose but you will want to get the black hose, not clear. If you use clear it will be covered on the inside by algae in no time.

[Clavius]

Ok, so no tape on the bulkheads themselves.

And can I find these barb fittings at a place like home depot or lowes?

[Clavius]

Tank has been masked off and the back is ready to be painted.

http://i638.photobucket.com/albums/uu105/mnosam/IMG_1720.jpg

[Gold Stripe]

You can usually find them at Lowes or HD. They are Male Pipe Thread (MPT) or Female Pipe Thread (FPT) on one end and hose barb on the other.

[Clavius]

My light just arrived... aaaaand I don't think this thing is going to work. It's massive. I mean, I knew it was big but had no idea it would be this big. I'll post some pics in a minute.

[Clavius]

http://i638.photobucket.com/albums/uu105/mnosam/IMG_1722.jpg

http://i638.photobucket.com/albums/uu105/mnosam/IMG_1723.jpg

http://i638.photobucket.com/albums/uu105/mnosam/IMG_1724.jpg

http://i638.photobucket.com/albums/uu105/mnosam/IMG_1725.jpg

[Clavius]

I painted the back of the tank:

http://i638.photobucket.com/albums/uu105/mnosam/IMG_1726.jpg

And here it is with the Viper on it:

http://i638.photobucket.com/albums/uu105/mnosam/IMG_1727.jpg

http://i638.photobucket.com/albums/uu105/mnosam/IMG_1728.jpg

[Alex0219]

Looks great so far! Love the rimless look. Can't wait to see it up and running!

[SaltSolutions1]

Looks sweet! That light clamp is big but your corals are gonna love you for it. I can't wait to see more pics as you get things rolling.

[Clavius]

I've decided that mounting it on the tank isn't an option as it just doesn't seem stable enough. So what I"m going to do is when I build my stand I'll have a piece of wood behind the tank that I"ll mount the light to. Here's what I am thinking, if you're looking at the tank/stand from the side:

http://i638.photobucket.com/albums/uu105/mnosam/stand1.jpg

[SaltSolutions1]

Great idea! That's gonna look cool. I can't wait to see it. I found out my fixture will be delivered on Monday. Can't wait!

[cherubfish pair]

That would be helpful because what you said above that is greek to me. lol
Sorry about the Greek, hope this helps.

The black part is the bulkhead fitting of course and a mpt (mpt=male pipe threads) x insert elbow is screwed into one end of the bulkhead fitting. The elbow has threads on one end and an insert part on the other end to hold hoses on. There is also some plastic hose clamps on the connections to help hold the hose on. (These are optional and I think stainless steel are better.)

It's getting late here and I can only touch on the basics right now.
http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j289/mkp59923/Reef%20Central%202/clavius001.jpg

[nemosworld]

not sure if you have water in this setup yet, but if i were you i would put the rest of the loc-line back on and rasie the retun to the water level or slightly above it, this will creat a siphon break during power outage and prevent water from draining back into the sump. which could flood your floors. unless you have enough room in the sump for the water.

[Clavius]

not sure if you have water in this setup yet, but if i were you i would put the rest of the loc-line back on and rasie the retun to the water level or slightly above it, this will creat a siphon break during power outage and prevent water from draining back into the sump. which could flood your floors. unless you have enough room in the sump for the water.

Nope, no water. Haven't even started on the stand yet. Thanks for your help though. I still have a long ways to go before I add water and test it all out.

[nano_reefer2010]

Nice tank Clavius. I have a Mr. Aqua Rimless the same size that i will be doing something very similar to. Have you considered doing LED? That viper will be putting some serious heat to that ten gallon, and LED could be so much more sleek for that ultimate rimless look. There is an amazing LED/T5 hybrid on Nanotuners.com. I've seen it in person and it has the absolute best color combo I have ever seen. Happy reefing

[Clavius]

Nice tank Clavius. I have a Mr. Aqua Rimless the same size that i will be doing something very similar to. Have you considered doing LED? That viper will be putting some serious heat to that ten gallon, and LED could be so much more sleek for that ultimate rimless look. There is an amazing LED/T5 hybrid on Nanotuners.com. I've seen it in person and it has the absolute best color combo I have ever seen. Happy reefing

To be honest, I'm still on the fence about the Viper. I have considered LEDs. I already have one ecoxotic 12K PAR38. It's nice and I guess two would be enough for this tank. I just can't figure out how to mount them over the tank without out it looking ugly.

That Nanotuners light looks nice. But it's only 12" long. And that's a little out of my price range. I've thought about building an LED fixture but would need to learn a lot more before starting on a project like that...

[Clavius]

Well I've made the decision to sell the Viper and go the LED route with this tank. I'm going to build a fixture of maybe 12 LEDs from RapidLED.com

[stagger_lee]

And can I find these barb fittings at a place like home depot or lowes?

If for whatever reason you are having a hard time finding slip fittings, go to a hydroponics store. They will have it for sure. Any plumbing, pumps, tubing, anything you cant find at LFS or otherwise, go to a hydro store. :beer:

[CRASHJT]

not sure if you have water in this setup yet, but if i were you i would put the rest of the loc-line back on and rasie the retun to the water level or slightly above it, this will creat a siphon break during power outage and prevent water from draining back into the sump. which could flood your floors. unless you have enough room in the sump for the water.

Exactlly what I was thinking without doing this it could get all bad in a hurry you need that line at the water level with a small hole in the side of it this will break the siphon

Otherwise great looking tank cant wait to see it up and running, I also agree ditch the viper I think you will be happier in the long run

[nano_reefer2010]

Glad you decided to go LED. I am thinking about making a custom T5/LED fixture similar to the Nanotuners, but just 18". You're off to a great start! Can't wait to see what it looks like with water in it.

[cherubfish pair]

If for whatever reason you are having a hard time finding slip fittings....
He doesn't want slip fittings, twice he said he wants to be able to take this thing apart.

[cherubfish pair]

If you haven't sold your viper yet, I wouldn't. DIY leds are a nightmare and very time consuming. The stuff that's prebuilt is very expensive and there's nothing wrong with the viper. Checkout got2evny's thread, she's got a 150watt over a nano and no issues. I had a 70 viper without the fan all I had to do is drill a 3/16" hole on the top to dissipate heat so the fan will be enough for you. You could always sell it later.

[Clavius]

If you haven't sold your viper yet, I wouldn't. DIY leds are a nightmare and very time consuming. The stuff that's prebuilt is very expensive and there's nothing wrong with the viper. Checkout got2evny's thread, she's got a 150watt over a nano and no issues. I had a 70 viper without the fan all I had to do is drill a 3/16" hole on the top to dissipate heat so the fan will be enough for you. You could always sell it later.

I don't know man. It doesn't look like it's THAT much work to build an LED fixture. RapidLED.com has some great kits...

[SGT_DAO]

have you ran that tunze skimmer? if you have, how is it? i plan on getting one. stuck between the 9002 or the aquac urchin.

[Clavius]

have you ran that tunze skimmer? if you have, how is it? i plan on getting one. stuck between the 9002 or the aquac urchin.

I'll be honest. I wasn't that impressed with the 9002 when I had it in my Solana. It could have been the aftermarket cup or maybe I just never got it fine tuned. I'm planning on using it in this setup with the stock cup and we'll see if it works any better.

[nano_reefer2010]

I really like the RapidLED kits! And they have drilled heatsinks, so you dont even have to solder. I think that is gonna be sick! Make sure to check out reefledlights.com too! They have really high quality heatsinks, and an impressive DIY guide. Nanotuners even has some LED's that are the true actinic spectrum too (420nm). I would also recommend checking out a video on youtube by Ricket's Reef. He gives very comprehensive builds of his DIY stuff, and his light fixture seems like a breeze.

And i was planning on using the same skimmer. You seem to not like it much. Any suggestions?

[Clavius]

I really like the RapidLED kits! And they have drilled heatsinks, so you dont even have to solder. I think that is gonna be sick! Make sure to check out reefledlights.com too! They have really high quality heatsinks, and an impressive DIY guide. Nanotuners even has some LED's that are the true actinic spectrum too (420nm). I would also recommend checking out a video on youtube by Ricket's Reef. He gives very comprehensive builds of his DIY stuff, and his light fixture seems like a breeze.

And i was planning on using the same skimmer. You seem to not like it much. Any suggestions?

Yeah the RapidLED kits look great. And I saw they have already drilled heatsinks. I don't think building a fixture will be too hard. It just may take some time.

As for the skimmer, I'm still not sure about it yet. We'll see how it does when I get this tank up and running. I don't know of any other nano skimmers other than the AquaC Remora.

[cherubfish pair]

I'll be honest. I wasn't that impressed with the 9002 when I had it in my Solana. It could have been the aftermarket cup or maybe I just never got it fine tuned. I'm planning on using it in this setup with the stock cup and we'll see if it works any better.
If you're interested in selling your Tunze skimmer or trading for a nano remora, please pm me.

[nano_reefer2010]

Cherubfish: Since you have the nano remora and are wanting a tunze, which is the better skimmer in your opinion?

[sprayed99]

Yeah the RapidLED kits look great. And I saw they have already drilled heatsinks. I don't think building a fixture will be too hard. It just may take some time.

As for the skimmer, I'm still not sure about it yet. We'll see how it does when I get this tank up and running. I don't know of any other nano skimmers other than the AquaC Remora.

Building a fixture for that tank will be really easy. If you need wiring diagrams or tips feel free to PM me. I build retros for the fluval edge using rapidled. good product, good shipping, and never have to send anything back. I'm not sure what you are trying to keep but going with a 60-48D driver you can wire 24 leds and if you ever plan on a Apex or other 0-10v controller you can have full automation or you can build the fixture with dimmers easily using that driver. Also 24 leds would allow you to keep anything you would ever want.

[cherubfish pair]

Cherubfish: Since you have the nano remora and are wanting a tunze, which is the better skimmer in your opinion?
I have no experience with the Tunze but I've run my remora on a NC6 and it did just fine. I have it now on my bigger tank just because I'm redoing my sump/replumbing and it's skimming like crazy. The problem is it can't skim surface water and the pump comes off the hose. It works much better on all-in-ones but you just can't keep a hood on the tank.

[Clavius]

Thanks for the input everyone!

On a side note:
I just started working on my stand... and apparently I can't measure worth a damn. Just wasted two 2x4's. :thumbdown

[Clavius]

I am not cut out to be a carpenter.

To make a long story short, on both of my previous tanks (the Solana and the Aquapod) my grandfather helped me build the stands. They turned out great and were rock solid. This time, however, I wanted to see if I could do it myself. No such luck. I just wasted three 8ft 2x4's attempting to build a simple frame.

[Clavius]

Ok, I've put aside building the stand for a while and am trying to figure out how I'm going to light this thing. I definitely want to do LEDs. I have two plans that both involve kits from RapidLED.com.

Plan #1:

Just order the 14 Ultra Premium LED Nano Retrofit Kit (http://www.rapidled.com/servlet/the-65/14-Ultra-Premium-LED/Detail), build it and then stick it in a canopy with a plexiglass shield between it and the water.

Plan #2:

Order 12 Premium LED DIY Kit with Dimmable Drivers (http://www.rapidled.com/servlet/the-36/12-Premium-LED-DIY/Detail), Drilled and Tapped 4.25" x 9" Heat Sink for 12 LEDs (http://www.rapidled.com/servlet/the-81/Drilled-and-Tapped-4.25%22/Detail), 60mm Vantec Stealth Fan Kit (http://www.rapidled.com/servlet/the-70/60mm-Vantec-Stealth-Fan/Detail), 2 Color Dimming Kit with Multimeter (http://www.rapidled.com/servlet/the-119/2-Color-Dimming-Kit/Detail), AND 1x Mean Well LPC-35-700W constant current driver (http://www.rapidled.com/servlet/the-3/driver-700ma-48v-drivers/Detail) and 3-Prong Power Cord (http://www.rapidled.com/servlet/the-47/3-dsh-Prong-Power-Cord/Detail). The idea behind ordering all of this is that I would have 10 of the LEDs (6 blue/4 white) be dimmable. These would be the "main" light. Then 2 other blue LEDs on a separate driver/power cord would be the nighttime lights. All of this would be mounted on the heatsink linked to above in this format:

B - B - W - B
W - B - B - W
B - W - B - B

where B = a blue LED and W = a white LED, the two blues in the center would be the nighttime LEDs and would have wide optics or none at all. The rest of the LEDs in the array would have 60 degree optics.

So, if this makes any sense... thoughts?

[benray4fun]

Great work so far, can't wait to see the finish... : )

[iziko]

Very good!!

[sprayed99]

Ok, I've put aside building the stand for a while and am trying to figure out how I'm going to light this thing. I definitely want to do LEDs. I have two plans that both involve kits from RapidLED.com.

Plan #1:

Just order the 14 Ultra Premium LED Nano Retrofit Kit (http://www.rapidled.com/servlet/the-65/14-Ultra-Premium-LED/Detail), build it and then stick it in a canopy with a plexiglass shield between it and the water.

Plan #2:

Order 12 Premium LED DIY Kit with Dimmable Drivers (http://www.rapidled.com/servlet/the-36/12-Premium-LED-DIY/Detail), Drilled and Tapped 4.25" x 9" Heat Sink for 12 LEDs (http://www.rapidled.com/servlet/the-81/Drilled-and-Tapped-4.25%22/Detail), 60mm Vantec Stealth Fan Kit (http://www.rapidled.com/servlet/the-70/60mm-Vantec-Stealth-Fan/Detail), 2 Color Dimming Kit with Multimeter (http://www.rapidled.com/servlet/the-119/2-Color-Dimming-Kit/Detail), AND 1x Mean Well LPC-35-700W constant current driver (http://www.rapidled.com/servlet/the-3/driver-700ma-48v-drivers/Detail) and 3-Prong Power Cord (http://www.rapidled.com/servlet/the-47/3-dsh-Prong-Power-Cord/Detail). The idea behind ordering all of this is that I would have 10 of the LEDs (6 blue/4 white) be dimmable. These would be the "main" light. Then 2 other blue LEDs on a separate driver/power cord would be the nighttime lights. All of this would be mounted on the heatsink linked to above in this format:

B - B - W - B
W - B - B - W
B - W - B - B

where B = a blue LED and W = a white LED, the two blues in the center would be the nighttime LEDs and would have wide optics or none at all. The rest of the LEDs in the array would have 60 degree optics.

So, if this makes any sense... thoughts?

plan 2 is a little off IMO. I have done a few dozen leds retros for others. Running 2 blue 3w leds for your "nightime" lighting is way over kill and you are flushing money.

Do everything is plan 2 but make all the 3w leds dimmable and add a simple luner light like current offers for a whopping 12 bucks. If you were to do it in the way you explained. Your lunar lighting with 2 3watt leds would be more like a actinic supplement.

Orrrr would you rather do the non dimmable kit and use 18 leds with 2 drivers. So you can control the blues and white separate. This way you can have the actinics come on early and stay on after the white leds. If you aren't going with a controller the dimmable drivers are pointless IMO.

set it up like this

b w b w b w b w b
w b w b w b w b w

and you can use a simple 4" x 2" x 18" rectangular tube aluminum as a heatsink and add a fan on the end to blow through the tube. My system on my 70Gal reef is 50 leds total. 14 are all blue XPEs and the other 36 is the main light which is 1:1 ratio of the XR-E cree leds and they are mounted on a 6" x 2" x 30" 6063 aluminum rectangle tube with 2 60mm fan mounted on one end. If you want to buy the aluminum online go to

http://www.discountsteel.com/items/6063_Aluminum_Rectangular_Tube.cfm?item_id=147&size_no=15

just find the 4x2x 1/8" thick and selet the length... Im guessing around 15.00. Also dont waste the money on Optics. Your tank is so shallow it will cause spot lighting bad.

Feel free to PM me if you have any questions.

[Clavius]

Can a ReefKeeper Lite control dimmable LEDs with the advanced light controller module?

And I'll nix the idea of using any of the LEDs for nighttime viewing. I'll just find some cheap solution like you said.

[Clavius]

plan 2 is a little off IMO. I have done a few dozen leds retros for others. Running 2 blue 3w leds for your "nightime" lighting is way over kill and you are flushing money.

Do everything is plan 2 but make all the 3w leds dimmable and add a simple luner light like current offers for a whopping 12 bucks. If you were to do it in the way you explained. Your lunar lighting with 2 3watt leds would be more like a actinic supplement.

Orrrr would you rather do the non dimmable kit and use 18 leds with 2 drivers. So you can control the blues and white separate. This way you can have the actinics come on early and stay on after the white leds. If you aren't going with a controller the dimmable drivers are pointless IMO.

set it up like this

b w b w b w b w b
w b w b w b w b w

and you can use a simple 4" x 2" x 18" rectangular tube aluminum as a heatsink and add a fan on the end to blow through the tube. My system on my 70Gal reef is 50 leds total. 14 are all blue XPEs and the other 36 is the main light which is 1:1 ratio of the XR-E cree leds and they are mounted on a 6" x 2" x 30" 6063 aluminum rectangle tube with 2 60mm fan mounted on one end. If you want to buy the aluminum online go to

http://www.discountsteel.com/items/6063_Aluminum_Rectangular_Tube.cfm?item_id=147&size_no=15

just find the 4x2x 1/8" thick and selet the length... Im guessing around 15.00. Also dont waste the money on Optics. Your tank is so shallow it will cause spot lighting bad.

Feel free to PM me if you have any questions.
Thanks for your help!

Based on your input and that of others on Nano-Reef I'm going to find some other way to do moonlighting. Also, I've been doing some reading and the RKL with the ALC will control the MeanWell ELN-60-48D driver. So I'm going to wire up 8 blues to one dimmable driver and then 8 whites to another dimmable driver. And I will have them setup on the heatsink in this array (the heatsink is 3x8 in terms of LEDs):

- W B W B W B -
B - W - B -W -
- B W B W B W -

[Clavius]

Alright, going with dimmable drivers and the ALC for the RKL looks like it's going to cost quite a bit. So I think I'm going to go with a constant current 12 LED DIY kit from RapidLED along with an extra driver. That way I can wire up the blues and whites to be independent of each other.

[nano_reefer2010]

Have you checked out a series of videos on YouTube by Ricket's Reef? This guy gives a totally awesome step by step of his DIY LED build. He is very helpful. And as far as dimming capabilities, why not go with RapidLED's potentiometer. Correct me if i'm wrong, but i think it is simply an analog dimmer. You could have an awesome amount of control even without the RKL. And it's simple to upgrade in the future. This is possibly what i'm going with. Also have you checked out the 420 nm LED's from Nanotuners? They seem to put off an actinic light that is gorgeous. I think i will use these as dawn/dusk lighting with the blue's and whites being my primary light. You've got an awesome thread going here. I can't wait to start mine. I'm still in the research stage, but you are giving me some great ideas. Thanks :)

Here's the link to the YouTube Vids. It's a four part series.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4I_5uh4R_QQ&feature=channel

[Clavius]

Have you checked out a series of videos on YouTube by Ricket's Reef? This guy gives a totally awesome step by step of his DIY LED build. He is very helpful. And as far as dimming capabilities, why not go with RapidLED's potentiometer. Correct me if i'm wrong, but i think it is simply an analog dimmer. You could have an awesome amount of control even without the RKL. And it's simple to upgrade in the future. This is possibly what i'm going with. Also have you checked out the 420 nm LED's from Nanotuners? They seem to put off an actinic light that is gorgeous. I think i will use these as dawn/dusk lighting with the blue's and whites being my primary light. You've got an awesome thread going here. I can't wait to start mine. I'm still in the research stage, but you are giving me some great ideas. Thanks :)

Here's the link to the YouTube Vids. It's a four part series.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4I_5uh4R_QQ&feature=channel
Yeah, I came across those videos just the other day. They were very helpful to me as well.

For now I think I'm set on doing a constant current LED setup. The ALC for the RKL costs about $75. And when I start adding up all the costs of the LED kits, soldering gun, etc. it gets a bit pricey - over $300.

[nano_reefer2010]

I just realized my post was totally redundant. Lol. It's been awhile since i checked this out. I forgot you had the RKL too. The ALC is gonna be wicked! Good plan. I'll be waiting to see how this comes along. Maybe you can get better pics with the blue LED's than the YouTube videos eh?

[longiotti]

Re-did my sump design:

http://i638.photobucket.com/albums/uu105/mnosam/Sump1-1.jpg

I have to ask, why do people do this?
why not run the fug in the middle and then the pump on the left?
is it just to control flow?
it just seems a little silly.

[Clavius]

I have to ask, why do people do this?
why not run the fug in the middle and then the pump on the left?
is it just to control flow?
it just seems a little silly.
I think the idea behind it is to control/slow down the amount of flow going through the fuge. However, to keep things simple, I may just do like you said and go with the fuge in the middle and the return pump on the left.

[will46r]

The idea is to increase "dwell time" allowing water to sit in the natural filter of your fuge. That being said I'm running a fuge in the center of my sump. I'm planning on running the water into the sump a little slower and plan on using a powerhead to increase the circulation in the tank.

[IDrawFish]

check out the UFO LED fixture at reefkoiDOTcom, it might be just what you're looking for without all the work, but great looking build

[Clavius]

Got a new filter sock holder that will work better. The other one just went too far down into the sump. So here are a few pics. One with just the filter sock holder and then two with the sock holder and the Tunze 9002 skimmer. At the moment I'll be putting both in the same chamber (chamber 1).

http://i638.photobucket.com/albums/uu105/mnosam/IMG_1740.jpg

http://i638.photobucket.com/albums/uu105/mnosam/IMG_1741.jpg

http://i638.photobucket.com/albums/uu105/mnosam/IMG_1742.jpg

[nano_reefer2010]

Any updates? I am going to be starting my thread next week hopefully. I got alot of inspiration from you, so i will be giving shout outs to you.

[Clavius]

Any updates? I am going to be starting my thread next week hopefully. I got alot of inspiration from you, so i will be giving shout outs to you.

I decided to end this project as I simply do not have the time to devote to working on setting this thing up and building a light for it. So as a result I ordered a 22g CADlights tank.

[Rylan]

Thats a shame, It was coming along nicely. Ah well :)