Plz Recommend an RO/DI for me

[reefworldly]

Hi guys, im looking to get my first RO/DI system
and was wanting to ask for suggestions on a standard ro/di system, i dont want anything fancy. so anyone suggest a good starter ro/di system for me that is also easy to install,,,

how hard is it to install these things anyways

also, i probaby just need the lowest output of GPD

please let me know, post a link to your suggestion

thanks

[Higgy2010]

I got a used RO/DI unit from a fellow reefer on another forum. I like the unit which is 4 stage from Bulk Reef Supply. You can start your search from there to understand the stages and have an idea of the price range.
As for installation, currently I hook it up to my spout outside. Once I decide on a permanent spot inside the house, supposedly the installation (also on BRS website via Youtube) looks simple.
Hope this helps.

[oscar.millan]

I really like the spectrapure units. I own two and I haven't had any issues with them.

[oscar.millan]

Something like this would work:

Spectrapure RO/DI (http://www.marinedepot.com/SpectraPure_Maxpure_RO_DI_System_24_to_40_Gallons_Per_Day_RO_DI_Water_Filter_Systems-SpectraPure-YSP1311-FIRORDFT-vi.html)

[Chigga126]

i use the reef bulk supply RO/DI's its fine with me. and they also have videos on how the filters work on the site

[reefworldly]

Something like this would work:

Spectrapure RO/DI (http://www.marinedepot.com/SpectraPure_Maxpure_RO_DI_System_24_to_40_Gallons_Per_Day_RO_DI_Water_Filter_Systems-SpectraPure-YSP1311-FIRORDFT-vi.html)


yeah, thats kinda the price range i was shooting for, and seems pretty good i think i heard of spectrapures
thanks for the link!

some ro/di newbie questions:

how long do these filters last,?
how will i know the filter is used up, in case i mix unfiltered water accidently?

anyone else have any other good suggestions lmk,

is this something i can just plumb into my kitchen sink easily?
im not a plumber, and im in a rental home, so i would hope its something i can easily detach attach, etc

or do i have to plug this in via garden hose something on the outside of the house, etc

[haikufriday]

yeah, thats kinda the price range i was shooting for, and seems pretty good i think i heard of spectrapures
thanks for the link!

some ro/di newbie questions:

how long do these filters last,?
how will i know the filter is used up, in case i mix unfiltered water accidently?

anyone else have any other good suggestions lmk,

is this something i can just plumb into my kitchen sink easily?
im not a plumber, and im in a rental home, so i would hope its something i can easily detach attach, etc

or do i have to plug this in via garden hose something on the outside of the house, etc

The SpectraPure units are good units for the price. Honestly, I have an RO/DI unit i bought on ebay, but it leaked so I stopped using it. After sitting around in my garage for for over two years it was in poor shape so I changed the fittings and the membranes and i've had no problems with it since.

TDS meters are the only sure way to know if your membranes are old. Color changing DI cartridges will slowly change color, and you can use this to help know when it's time to change. Rough estimates for changing your other cartridges are 6 months for Sediment or Carbon and 2 years for TFC, however TDS is the best way to know when it's time to change.

Plumbing can be done, but if you're renting it may be best to use a garden hose adapter or a sink faucet adapter.

[ctmgardea]

BRS units are great! Just got one about 2 months ago and really wish I bought this along time ago! I have mine hooked up to my hose bib super easy! You won't be sorry.

[rroselavy]

Oof. You just missed Spectrapure's sale...

http://www.spectrapure.com/email/customer-appreciation.html

I always hear great things about Spectrapure, but their systems are always priced much higher than others (except during their sales). The key is the 0.5 micron sediment and 0.5 micron carbon block. These filters can extend the life of your RO membrane and DI resin.

Buckeye Field Supply is recommended as well. Their rep often writes very informative posts online about the importance of the smallest size sediment/carbon and seems to really know his stuff.

I am also a big BRS customer, and I think their RODI systems are good quality and represent a good value. Their sediment filters are only 5 microns, though their carbon blocks in most of their units are 0.6 microns.

Whichever way you go, I would recommend a unit with a built-in pressure gauge and TDS meter. A dual TDS meter is best, so you can meter the TDS value going into DI stage and coming out of the DI stage. That will tell you when your RO membrane needs to be replaced and when your DI resin is exhausted.

[tomas]

Scott -

With the dual TDS meter how can you tell whether your RO membrane or DI Resin is exhausted?

[rroselavy]

Scott -

With the dual TDS meter how can you tell whether your RO membrane or DI Resin is exhausted?

I am no expert, but the following is what I understand:

The TDS that comes out of the RO membrane is partly a function of the incoming TDS of the municipal water, the temperature, the water pressure, and the efficiency of the membrane. Assuming that all aspects are constant, you will see a TDS value coming out of your RO membrane that you can consider your "normal" value. When that number starts to rise considerably, you know that your RO membrane needs to be replaced.

The TDS that comes out of your DI resin is a function of the RO output and the efficacy of the resin. The resin will be able to compensate (to some extent) for a expired membrane, but that will come at the cost of depleting resin at a faster rate.

When you know for sure that your RO membrane output TDS value is normal, but the output of your DI cartridge is rising, you will know the DI resin needs to be changed, and not the RO membrane.

Being able to monitor both is very convenient, and can help prevent you from burning through too much DI resin if it is your RO membrane that is not working well.

Also, if your filter has a flush valve, do not forget to flush your Sediment/Carbon prefilters every once in a while for 20 minutes or so. This can help to extend the life of your RO membrane.

[golfish]

I like Spectrapure. I've been using the same unit for 12+ years. I don't know why but it cost more back then.

[saleen2881]

if you want the best ro/di... top of the line no dought spectrapure!!!

[Buckeye Hydro]

This might help - its our most frequesntly asked question:

A good rule of thumb is to replace your sediment filter and carbon block after six months. A more precise way to maximize the usable life of these two filters is to use a pressure gauge to identify when pressure reaching the membrane starts to decline. This is your indication one or both of the filters is beginning to clog.

Also be cognizant of the chlorine capacity of the carbon block. A good 0.5 micron carbon block for example will remove 99% of chlorine from 20,000 gallons of tap water presented at 1 gpm. Some original equipment suppliers commonly provide carbon cartridges rated at 2,000 to 6,000 gallons.

Regarding your RO membrane and DI resin, use your TDS meter to measure, record, and track the TDS (expressed in parts per million) in three places:
1. Tap water
2. After the RO but before the DI
3. After the DI.

The TDS in your tap water will likely range from about 50 ppm to upwards of 1000 parts per million (ppm). Common readings are 100 to 400 ppm. So for sake of discussion, let's say your tap water reads 400 ppm. That means that for every million parts of water, you have 400 parts of dissolved solids. How do we go about getting that TDS reading down to somewhere near zero?

If you do some experimenting with your TDS meter, you'll note that your sediment filter and carbon block filter (collectively called “prefilters”) do very little to remove dissolved solids. So with your tap water at 400 ppm, you can measure the water at the “in” port on your RO housing and you'll see it is still approximately 400 ppm.

The RO membrane is really the workhorse of the system. It removes most of the TDS, some membranes to a greater extent than others. For instance, 100 gpd Filmtec membranes have a rejection rate of 90% (i.e., they reject 90% of the dissolved solids in feed water). So the purified water coming from your 100 gpd membrane would be about 40 ppm (a 90% reduction). Filmtec 75 gpd (and below) membranes produce less purified water (aka “permeate”), but have a higher rejection rate (96 to 98%). The life span of a RO membrane is dependent upon how much water you run through it, and how dirty the water is. Membranes can function well for a year, two years, or more. To test the membrane, measure the total dissolved solids (TDS) in the water coming in to the membrane, and in the purified water (permeate) produced by the membrane. Compare that to the membrane’s advertised rejection rate, and to the same reading you recorded when the membrane was new. Membranes also commonly produce less water as their function declines.

After the RO membrane, water will flow to your DI housing. DI resin in good condition will reduce the 40 ppm water down to 0 or 1 ppm. When the DI output starts creeping up from 0 or 1 ppm, you know that your resin needs to be replaced. Sometimes people complain that their DI resin didn't last very long. Often the culprit is a malfunctioning RO membrane sending the DI resin “dirty” water. This will exhaust the resin quicker than would otherwise have been the case. Sometimes the problem is poor quality resin – remember that all resins are not created equal!

Russ

[Buckeye Hydro]

is this something i can just plumb into my kitchen sink easily?
im not a plumber, and im in a rental home, so i would hope its something i can easily detach attach, etc

There are all sorts of ways to hook tese units up to your plumbing. In cases like yours where you don't want to make permanant changes to the plumb, a faucet adapter kit works well. Better yet, IMO, is an undersink shut off supply valve
http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd293/BuckeyeFS/jgasa.jpg

Russ

[letsgofishin]

most reputable vendors sell about the ssame thing... maybe the cannisters are ade in different paces, but he important thing is th ro membrane... and most are made by DOW/filtec...

there are some differences in how those filters are 'graded' as each one is tested for perfmorance.. some perform better then others and some not so much...

the better performing membranes are sold for a little more then the lower grade filters...

the vendors then buy the membranes according to thier performance... but really the performance I am talking about is really insignificant... 98% rejections vs, 98.5% or 97.9%

etc...

what you should look for is customer service... RUSS from Buckeye is teh best.. hands down...

he has placed a lot of helpful links and videos on his site... he will also speak with you and 'hold your hand' until you are ready...

and if you should have problems, he will take care of it all the way thru completion...




the thing you may want to have is the cannisters.. do you want see thru or opaque...

also, i strongly urge you to get a vertical DI cannister system,. not the typical horizontal type in most setups...

[7duster3]

I have a 5 stage plus from BRS and i love it. I put mine through the ringer and broke a few of the 90 degree adapters and what not. BRS has sent me out new fittings for free every time. Super easy to set up and installation was a breeze. I bought one of those garden hose "Y" fittings and it jumped my pressure up 5 psi. Anaheim in my area caps its pressure pretty low. You can't go wrong with any of them im sure. Make sure you get one with a tds meter though.

-bryce