PDA

View Full Version : DIY: Electronically Controlled Auto Top-Off System


LPS_Blasto
01/16/2011, 08:51 PM
I decided to build this auto top off system because I work out of town a lot and my wife is a full time college student. It's kind of ugly right now. I just finished final assembly last night. So far, it's working as designed. I plan to put all the relays and electronic parts inside a project box and clean up the wires eventually. For now, I just want to test and monitor it to make sure it's going to be trouble free.

I will state right now that I didn't take into account the magnets on the float switches until this weekend. After reading another thread on RC, I removed all my floats and coated the magnets with clear fingernail polish. I don't know how long it will keep the salt water out. I don't know if there is a test kit for "rust". I'm just going to try it and see how things go.


I went to the big box hardware store and bought a hose bib attachment for my washing mashing water line. It's actually made for evaporative coolers. It has a 1/4" output on the side. Keeps ya from having to solder copper pipes or use one of those pesky saddle taps. I figured it would be perfect for the supply line to my RO unit.
http://i437.photobucket.com/albums/qq92/LPS_Blasto/IMG_4418.jpg

This is my 6 stage RO unit. I used to have it hooked up in the spare bathroom. Pain in the butt. Water lines all over the floor. Buckets in the shower stall. Lugging water around every week. I moved out near the tank because all my power and relays are out there.
http://i437.photobucket.com/albums/qq92/LPS_Blasto/IMG_4411.jpg

This is the 12v solenoid valve that controls water from that hose bib into my RO unit. I had to have a positive way to shut off the water supply or my RO unit would be dribbling all the time. For now, it's plugged into a 12v wall wart. The wall wart is controlled by a relay. I'll explain more on that later.
http://i437.photobucket.com/albums/qq92/LPS_Blasto/IMG_4412.jpg

This is my 10g RO storage tank. There's 3 floats.
http://i437.photobucket.com/albums/qq92/LPS_Blasto/IMG_4413.jpg
Top float is an emergency shut off. In the event of a failure, this float will shut off power to the RO pump and the solenoid valve, effectively stopping any more water from getting into the RO unit. It could be considered the "secondary" shut-off float.

Middle float. This is the "primary" shut-off float.

Bottom float. This is the "ON" switch for the RO pump. This float also trips the 12v solenoid valve to open and thereby supply the RO pump with water from the hose bib.

There's 2 powerheads in the RO storage tank. The main powerhead supplies top-off water to my sump. It is controlled by floats in the main sump.

The other powerhead is so I can refill my mixing bucket for new salt water. I don't have this automated. I just use the RO water from the storage tank to fill my bucket. I plug the pump in and the water is pumped through a vinyl hose over to my mixing bucket. I have to stand there and babysit while it fills the bucket. I may automate it later.
http://i437.photobucket.com/albums/qq92/LPS_Blasto/IMG_4414.jpg

This is the auto top-off hose from the 1st powerhead in the RO storage tank. This hose is dumping into my sump.
http://i437.photobucket.com/albums/qq92/LPS_Blasto/IMG_4415.jpg

This is the sump.
http://i437.photobucket.com/albums/qq92/LPS_Blasto/IMG_4416.jpg

The top float is the shut off. The middle float is the "ON" switch for the powerhead in the storage tank.

The bottom float is not hooked up yet. The intention is to use it as an emergency stop in the event my sump runs dry. It would shut off the Mag 7 return pump to prevent frying the pump and possibly causing a fire. I need a manual reset button for it and another relay.

I could wire it now, but if you think about it, the pump would just get locked into an eternal loop of shutting down and starting up. Why? My tank drains about 6g of water when you shut the pump off. That water goes into the sump and fills it up. So, if the emergency "low water" float trips and shuts the pump off, what will happen? The tank will drain into the sump, raise the float, and turn the pump back on. The pump will push all the water out of the sump and back into the tank. When the water level gets low again, the float will shut the pump off. Rinse and repeat. :mad2: I am going to purchase a manual reset switch and install it with the float. In the event that float trips, it would require a human to come and push the manual reset button before the Mag 7 could energize again.

This is what my wife is calling "the death of our house" :lol: She thinks I'm gonna burn the place down.
http://i437.photobucket.com/albums/qq92/LPS_Blasto/IMG_4417.jpg

I'm going to put it all into a project box eventually. But I still have some components to incorporate into the system. Need a few more switches, relays and floats.

LPS_Blasto
01/16/2011, 09:04 PM
Okay, so how does it work?

I'll start with the floats in the sump. The water level drops from evaporation and the top float goes down. Nothing happens yet. The water level drops a little more and the 2nd float drops. That turns on the small powerhead in the 10g RO storage tank. The powerhead pumps RO water into the sump. Bottom float raises but does not shut off the powerhead. Powerhead continues to fill the sump. Top float raises and shuts off the powerhead.

The sump is a little over filled at the time I took these pics. My salinity was low, so I did a water change and overfilled the sump with new salt water. By the time it evaporates the salinity will be back to normal and then my RO top-off pump will maintain the sump level.

Now for the RO storage tank. When the main sump asks for water, the little powerhead turns on and pumps water out. As the water drops, the middle float in the RO storage tank drops. The middle float will stay down. Over the course of a week, the powerhead will pump the rest of the water out of the storage tank. When it finally pulls out enough water to drop the lower float, the solenoid valve will open and the 24v power to the RO pump will turn on and begin filling the storage tank again. The bottom float will rise. The RO unit will continue to fill the storage tank. When the storage tank is full, the middle float rises, it will shut off the RO pump and shut off power to the solenoid valve for the RO supply line. If the middle float fails or gets stuck and the RO unit fills the storage tank too much, the top float is an emergency switch to kill power on that circuit.

BeanAnimal
01/16/2011, 10:48 PM
http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b285/fingers407/latchcircuit.gif

:)

LPS_Blasto
01/17/2011, 07:29 AM
Cool animation!! Yup, thats exactly how it works.

Did you make that animation? Or did you find it on the web someplace? I'm curious, because I designed this system myself...... but it appears somebody may have already though of it. If thats the case, I could have saved myself significant brain damage by looking at an existing schematic, instead of "re-inventing the wheel" by myself.

The RO system works basically the same way, except the floats are spaced farther apart. When the RO unit comes on, I want it to STAY on for an extended period of time. Right now, it pumps about 7.5 -- 8g of water into the storage tank when activated.

The top off pump comes on and off several times a day.

BeanAnimal
01/17/2011, 08:33 AM
That is how my first top off system (both the RO storage and top-off function) worked. I now use a microcontroller (same basic concept, but the "latch" is software, not electronic and I can use logic to determine of the top-off container has filled to many times in a given timespan and shut it down. I can also track the water usage.


In any case, the circuit is a classic latching relay circuit that is/was used in just about every process control situation imaginable from elevators to water treatment tanks to nuclear launch silos.

The annimation was done by somebody here at RC in an attempt to explain an ATO schematic that I posted :)

I also used float-valves as the actual fill nozzles (situated between the shutoff float switch and fail-safe float switch), so that there was a mechanical fail-safe in the tank and resevoir.

Make sure your relays have diode protection and everything should last quite a long time.

LPS_Blasto
01/31/2011, 09:44 PM
Here's the pics again. Moved them to a different album.

Sump and floats
http://i437.photobucket.com/albums/qq92/LPS_Blasto/Equipment/Top%20Off%20System/IMG_4416.jpg

Death of the house
http://i437.photobucket.com/albums/qq92/LPS_Blasto/Equipment/Top%20Off%20System/IMG_4417.jpg

Storage tank
http://i437.photobucket.com/albums/qq92/LPS_Blasto/Equipment/Top%20Off%20System/IMG_4413.jpg

12V solenoid valve for RO unit
IMG]http://i437.photobucket.com/albums/qq92/LPS_Blasto/Equipment/Top%20Off%20System/IMG_4412.jpg[/IMG]

RO unit and 24v pump
http://i437.photobucket.com/albums/qq92/LPS_Blasto/Equipment/Top%20Off%20System/IMG_4411.jpg

Hose Bib attachment to laundry box
http://i437.photobucket.com/albums/qq92/LPS_Blasto/Equipment/Top%20Off%20System/IMG_4418.jpg