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Mr.Mcgibblets
01/18/2011, 07:43 AM
So I am working on a 120g reef setup and I have a few questions I was hoping to get some advice on.

1. I live in Florida but keep house temp at 74. Tank will be located near a large window but shutters keep light out 99% of the time. Would t5 lights and 2 mag drive 700 pumps create enough heat to warrant a chiller? If so it would seem to make more sense to go LED for lighting? Opinions?

2. My LFS sells LR for 6 a pound it seems to make a lot more sense to buy reef saver rock from BRS is there a difference that I am missing? Especially since I will have to cycle the tank anyway?

3. What is the best way to remove water from tank during water changes, can I plumb a valve where you can use the aquarium pump to remove the water or is this not recommended?

4. Lastly I want to keep this setup under 2,000 does this sound reasonable?

Thanks

kfisc
01/18/2011, 08:52 AM
1) 'Dunno, opposite problem up here: 350 watts is just about keeping my tank at 77 today.
2) If you have the money, I'd go for all live rock. You could easily get by with the BRS, will just take longer (weeks+) to get the biological filter up and going.
3) Pumping it out can work, but many people use the cheap/easy siphon method so they can collect detritus- I use a length of 3/4" flex PVC so I can vacuum the bottom occasionally.
4) Sure, but like anything else, you'll find limits. I know people who would find $10,000 too limiting for a tank of that size. You could easily have a very nice FOWLR with some fun inverts in your clean-up crew, for example.

Good luck and have fun! Builds are a blast, I'm envious.

The Punisher
01/18/2011, 08:55 AM
1. Hard to tell until you actually get the tank set up and see what the temperature does. I live in Louisiana and can get by without one with T5's. I'd at least have the means to set one up if I were you, but you should try adding fans first.

2. BRS reef saver rock is a good deal, that's what I went with on my 120. If you do the BRS rock, just go buy a few pieces of live rock from your LFS to get some of the goodies that come with the live rock.

3. A valve on the return line is a good way to do it. I, personally use my MJ pump that feeds my carbon reactor to do water changes. I'll change my carbon and then run the tank water through the reactor to rinse the carbon and have the output of the reactor going into a bucket. Then I'll just disconnect the reactor inlet and go straight into a bucket when the carbon has been rinsed good.

4. Depends on how/what you buy. If you find good deals on used equipment and keep it reasonable you should be able to. I thought I was going to spend that much but ended up spending about double that just to get mine set up, but I bought everything new.

HowieB
01/18/2011, 12:12 PM
1. I live in California and temp in my house is usually 76 - 80. I have an Eheim 1262 main pump, 6 x 54w T5 light fixture, in-sump skimmer, and a vortech MP40W. Tank temp has never gone above 80. I would try it without the Chiller, maybe add a small fan directed at your sump. But if you have house air conditioning, it shouldn't be a problem. Chillers are expensive to buy and to run.
2. I bought Marco rock (dead rock) for my base rock, about 80 pounds, the rest I bought live rock from my LFS.
3. If your sump is sectioned off, (Return, refugium, return), a valve on your pump will only remove the water from the return section of your sump. I usually blow off my rocks in the display tank and then use an old pump to remove 15 - 20 gallons of water. Once every 3-4 months I clean out the sump.
4. My 120 gallon display cost about $4000.00. See my equipment below. $2000.00 is doable without all the extra's.

chimmike
01/18/2011, 12:47 PM
t5's shouldn't require a chiller. Honestly, I ran a poorly built canopy with two fans and 350w worth of halides over a 65g, didn't need a chiller.

house is at 71 at night and 78 during the day (in summer)

I'm setting up a rimless 100g with a 75g sump right now, T5 lighting. I'm expecting the heaters to get a workout,honestly. It'll even be in the warmest room in the house. If it gets too warm, I'll just toss a couple fans in the sump area.

Do this for rock: Order half as much poundage as you think you'll need in Bulk Reef Supply pukani rock (it's their nicest rock. if they have it, order it, it sells FAST), then get the rest in GOOD looking live rock. your LFS might not have nice pieces. I ordered some vanuatu from Liveaquaria. use the pukani and the live rock in the display, they'll get seeded quick and look AWESOME.

As for water changes, this is what I did: I put a T with a ball valve on the return pump inlet (I have an external pump. I suggest the same to anyone now) as well as a T and ball valve on the return pump outlet. Pump is in my garage. So I can literally pour water into the intake side to fill with fresh SW, and drain water from the pump outlet side to drain out whatever amount I want to. Can't fail with this option! Keeps water changes EASY!

Mr.Mcgibblets
01/18/2011, 01:32 PM
Thanks for all the replies. Here is a list of equipment that I am leaning toward I would appreciate your opinions. Also 4,000 seems like the magic number a lot of people have for a 120g setup tell me what I am missing.

Tank: Saw a Aqueon 120 (48x24x24) at the LFS for around 600 including stand. I am leaning toward building a slightly nicer stand myself or maybe even upgrading to a reef savvy tank.

Skimmer:http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/store/octopus-extreme-200-protein-skimmer.html

Sump: Looked at a couple at the LFS that are around 250.00

Pump: I was leaning toward two independent in sumps models. Will these work? I know someone suggested external pumps I am curious why?

http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/store/products/pumps-and-plumbing/powerheads-and-submersible-pumps/mag-drive-supreme/danner-mag-drive-supreme-7-700-gph-water-pump.html

LR and LS should run around 475.00 assuming 80 lbs from BRS and 40 LR from LFS.

Lighting: Looked briefly at t5 setup at LFS for around 300.00 or I saw these LED lights that looked very nice and rather affordable.

http://americanaquariumproducts.com/LEDLights.html

It looks like with these LED lights I could cover the tank with 2 lights for around 600.

All this adds up to a little over 2,000 so what else am missing? By the way I currently have a small 10g tank with refractometer and test kits so the nickel and dime items (that add up) are already covered. Obviously I need livestock but I am not including that in the initial startup cost. So what do you guys think? Am I completely out to lunch with this list or is it fairly close.

Thanks again.

Green_Reefer
01/18/2011, 04:06 PM
Are you going to have a sand bed? You haven't mentioned powerheads either (the ones from your 10g aren't going to cut it). Are you planning on using a Protein Skimmer or some other method of nutrient transport? If you go with T5 have you factored in the cost of bulbs? A few gate valves, pvc pipe and fittings to plumb the sump/return will add up as well. Do you already have a RO/DI or a source to purchase from nearby, the evaporation from a 120+sump = a lot of top-off water?

I'd personally budget for 4k as suggested by members already.

chimmike
01/18/2011, 06:24 PM
affordable and "good LED" don't usually belong in the same sentence. I'd consider T5's. Better spectrum coverage and cheaper to start. Plus they won't use a ton of power or generate a ton of heat.

sasharotty
01/18/2011, 06:58 PM
Starting a 225 and im currently around 6000 and have not started stocking anything yet. If the wife knew :blown:
You might want to up that budget a tad, it adds up rather quickly.

Dustin1300
01/18/2011, 07:16 PM
I'd say for protein skimmer you are right on track. I like the Super Reef Octopus models more because of the bubble blaster pump. This unit should be perfect for a 120:

SRO 3000 Internal (http://premiumaquatics.com/aquatic-supplies/CV-SRO-2000INT.html)

I'd say you will be happy with the Mag 7 and having two is a good idea so you can ensure you have a return going should one fail.

Lighting I would stay away from that fixture. Looks way to cheap to be any good to tell the truth. With anything you get what you pay for. I'd rather shoot for a T5 fixture as a good LED fixture is going to cost a whole lot more than $600.

$2000 is a little low for a nice reef IMO. I've got nearly double that budget on a 75 gallon in equipment alone:( (If the wife only knew. I told her I was planning for a 200 gallon build and I'm planning on saving 10k)

OregonReefer
01/19/2011, 01:26 AM
I'm building a 120 also... I'm not too far from the actual build but here's what I've spent so far

1: An All-Glass brand Tank with factory stand and a 4x54w T5 fixture all new at $350 (Considering the tank retails for ~$400 I thought it was a great deal) After reading the DYI stands thread the stand is going to be replaced and the light, while fine as a starter will also be replaced

2: Sump: $250
3: Glass Holes overflow $100
4: Reef Octopus Skimmer $380
5: Return pump $95
6: Reeflo Circulation pump $300

So far I'm at $1375 and don't even feel close to ready.

I still need, at minimum
1: Plumbing (freaking ball valves are spendy) ~$200-$300
2: Heater (as someone who's had a heater fail in the "On" position) ~$100+
3: ATO system: ~$150
4: Test Kits (5@$25ea min) $125
5: Refractometer $50
6: Sustrate (I haven't priced sand yet but I'm guessing at) 5 bags for a couple inches ~$150
7: And the big ticket item... Live Rock (If I buy it localy, I get to pick through 1500lbs at $7.00lb) 150 LBS = $1050

So I'm looking at around $3200 just to get started

Not including materials for my DYI stand...

Then there's the things I'm going to NEED moving forward after the cycle...

A better light... a decent 8 bulb T5 is going to cost ~$500
2 Part dosing system (Complete) ~$300
A reactor or two ~$50-$75 ea not counting media

Edit: I left out my RO/DI unit at $300 (already purchased) for a total of $3500 just to put water in it and plug it in...

Mr.Mcgibblets
01/19/2011, 07:10 AM
I'm building a 120 also... I'm not too far from the actual build but here's what I've spent so far

1: An All-Glass brand Tank with factory stand and a 4x54w T5 fixture all new at $350 (Considering the tank retails for ~$400 I thought it was a great deal) After reading the DYI stands thread the stand is going to be replaced and the light, while fine as a starter will also be replaced

2: Sump: $250
3: Glass Holes overflow $100
4: Reef Octopus Skimmer $380
5: Return pump $95
6: Reeflo Circulation pump $300

So far I'm at $1375 and don't even feel close to ready.

I still need, at minimum
1: Plumbing (freaking ball valves are spendy) ~$200-$300
2: Heater (as someone who's had a heater fail in the "On" position) ~$100+
3: ATO system: ~$150
4: Test Kits (5@$25ea min) $125
5: Refractometer $50
6: Sustrate (I haven't priced sand yet but I'm guessing at) 5 bags for a couple inches ~$150
7: And the big ticket item... Live Rock (If I buy it localy, I get to pick through 1500lbs at $7.00lb) 150 LBS = $1050

So I'm looking at around $3200 just to get started

Not including materials for my DYI stand...

Then there's the things I'm going to NEED moving forward after the cycle...

A better light... a decent 8 bulb T5 is going to cost ~$500
2 Part dosing system (Complete) ~$300
A reactor or two ~$50-$75 ea not counting media

Edit: I left out my RO/DI unit at $300 (already purchased) for a total of $3500 just to put water in it and plug it in...


We are in the same ballpark. I can get live rock for 4.00lb from a LFS, picked a little cheaper skimmer and ATO plus I already have test kits, refract, and all the misc parts covered. I am a little surprised at the plumbing cost though I thought that would run around 100.

My biggest fear is spending all this money then not wanting the tank anymore. Used aquariums make cars look like a good investment. Also I am concerned about evaporation, I have read others are getting up to 3-4g per day of evaporation. I'm not sure I want to change 5g bottles of top off water every other day.

chimmike
01/19/2011, 07:24 AM
I never saw that amount of evaporation, and you won't either running t5's. If you were running halides and had a lot of fans for evaporational cooling, maybe 1-2g per day max. FL is too humid though.

Dono
01/19/2011, 09:06 AM
If you're trying to keep within a 2000$ budget you might want to try using MarcoRock (Marcorocks.com) for your substrate, they have a few great deals on sand/rock, then you can buy a few live pieces from your LFS and seed your other rock.

I think they sell 75 lbs of rock (great stuff) and 160 lbs of really fine sane for $260-270? Not to mention the free shipping.

good luck, and I hope the tank turns out well!

Mr.Mcgibblets
01/19/2011, 09:09 AM
I never saw that amount of evaporation, and you won't either running t5's. If you were running halides and had a lot of fans for evaporational cooling, maybe 1-2g per day max. FL is too humid though.

That's more like what I was planning on. I was thinking it would get old real quick swapping 5g jugs every other day. One more question I am estimating about $75-$100 a month in operating costs with a tank consisting of about 6 fish, 2 clowns, 2-3 tangs (if I can get them to play nice with each other) and maybe one other, along with some corals. Does that estimate sound close?

chimmike
01/19/2011, 11:02 AM
that sounds about right, maybe a little on the high side with t5 lighting.