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View Full Version : Overflow woe's and plumbing Q's


dublo8
02/01/2011, 03:14 PM
I picked up a 700gph overflow from glass-holes.com and did my drilling and installed it on my 40 breeder. If your not fromiliar with the glass holes overflow, i'll paint a picture for you. it's a single 1.5" 90 degree bend and then straight down to the sump. It also has a piece of airline tubing in the top of the 90 for a vent. Alright, now we got that out of the way. I modified the plumbing a bit and used 2 45 degree bends to make it over to my sump since the sump was about 4" away from the straight pipe. The problem I am having is that I have an extreme amount of bubbles hitting the sump. I have tried a long pipe to go under the water, a short pipe to sit just above and I even tried a wye with a vented cap.

This is the response I got from glass-holes:
"Usually the best way to solve this is to replace the final elbow with a tee, with the top of the tee extended and left open. The plumbing is then increased to the maximum practical size (usually 2") to reduce water and bubble velocity and run this nice and deep into the sump. The bubbles should largely be vented out the top of the tee. Think of this as a reverse durso, or reverso. Sort of a bigger solution as to what you did. I put my skimmer in the first chamber, and think of the bubbles as a little 'precharge' into my skimmer!"

So he is saying I that I should be using a "T" to vent the plumbing. Anybody have any idea what he is talking about or a picture to show me? Anybody have any pictures of a reverse durso? I searched but couldn't find any good pictures, well any that were clear about what pipe was which. Thanks for your help. :fish2:

tkeracer619
02/01/2011, 04:22 PM
If you dont vent the drain pipe all of the energy will drive the bubbles down further.

Basically where you have brought it into the sump with two 45s you should use a 90 to bring the pipe in horizontal. This slows it down. Then plumb a tee so one end is up and one is down. Bring the down pipe all the way down close to the bottom and the one pointing up well up. This gives the air some were else to go other then down. You can also put a bag on it but you have to properly maintain the bags.

I run my dart return pumps drain water strait into the sump. It makes a lot of air bubbles. I like it because it gives extra oxygen to the tank and helps degas my calcium reactor effluent.

dublo8
02/01/2011, 04:37 PM
So maybe doing away with the 2 45's,replace them with a single 90 and put a T in place? One end straight to the sump and the other facing up. I think i got it. If that's incorrect please let me know before I bust out the sawzall and go to town on this plumbing. Would a wye be more suitable for this or is it necessary to have a vertical drop?

The problem with the amount of bubbles it's producing is that they are making there way past my bubble trap and into the display. Beleieve me when I say it's a lot of bubbles. I'll post pics when I get home.

tkeracer619
02/01/2011, 05:11 PM
A Tee is more appropriate. Don't forget to up size the tubing. You want to do everything you can to slow it down.

dublo8
02/01/2011, 05:19 PM
here is a crude drawing for you. Tell me if this is what your thinking.

http://i324.photobucket.com/albums/k321/dublo8/plumbing.jpg

dublo8
02/02/2011, 09:49 AM
No other input from anybody?