Question on setting up quarantine tank

[lacosta28]

So I am in my first week of cycling my 90g tank. I want to setup a QT tank for when I start to get fish and corals in about a month. So far all I have bought is the heater. I was going to buy the tank too but I don't know what size I should get. I was thinking a 10g but people said I should get something bigger. Would 20g be good enough? Also how does a QT tank exactly work? I may sound dumb but wouldn't you have to cycle that tank too? Do I need to set it up now so it is cycled in a month like the main tank?

[jcw]

I was relatively unclear about the QT tank as well. even after reading the stickies at the top of the new-to-hobby forum. Start there.

I think ideally it would be a glass tank that you've cycled with some live rock and a simple HOB or sponge filter. That way when the fish goes in, you might not have to do such frequent water changes to dilute the ammonia and nitrites.

Since you don't have any fish yet, I think that's probably a good way to go.

Alternatively, you could skip the cycle and just have plenty of salt and RO water to mix up and do water changes religiously for the next 4-6 weeks.

I ended up cycling my qt tank with a large piece of live rock, knowing that if have to treat, I might have to remove the live rock.

I used a Eheim pump to a UV sterilizer. The pump has a sponge that also acted as a biological filter.

I actually did not have any mechanical filtration on my system at first. But maybe a HOB filter with carbon would be a good idea.

[lacosta28]

I was relatively unclear about the QT tank as well. even after reading the stickies at the top of the new-to-hobby forum. Start there.

I think ideally it would be a glass tank that you've cycled with some live rock and a simple HOB or sponge filter. That way when the fish goes in, you might not have to do such frequent water changes to dilute the ammonia and nitrites.

Since you don't have any fish yet, I think that's probably a good way to go.

Alternatively, you could skip the cycle and just have plenty of salt and RO water to mix up and do water changes religiously for the next 4-6 weeks.

I ended up cycling my qt tank with a large piece of live rock, knowing that if have to treat, I might have to remove the live rock.

I used a Eheim pump to a UV sterilizer. The pump has a sponge that also acted as a biological filter.

I actually did not have any mechanical filtration on my system at first. But maybe a HOB filter with carbon would be a good idea.

Thanks, I too read the stickies above and I got the bases for setting it up but I didn't find more information. I think I will go with the live rock and let it cycle since I don't want to be doing so many water changes. This salt isn't cheap ha!

BTW any rec. on what size of QT tank I should get? I will buy the smallest fish I can because I wan to see them grow, but I am not sure what size is suffecient for a QT tank. 10 gallons?

[Rocdoc]

What a lot of people do is get a cheap tank (like the buck a gallon tanks you can sometimes find at the chain stores), place a heater and a cheap HOB filter in it, but leave it empty until ready for use. Put some 2" PVC pipe/fittings onto the bare tank bottom of the tank. Use a decent thermometer (not the stick on kind), and have something to place on top (either a hood or some eggcrate). When it is time to use the tank, fill it with water from your display tank.

Some people put the HOB filter in the display sump to seed it with bacteria before moving it to the QT. You should never move media back to the DT because you could introduce badness to your DT. Just toss the floss and start again for your next QT inhabitant.

Many people recommend one of those ammonia alert disks in the QT tank to give you a quick warning about rising ammonia levels. Do plenty of water changes.

[Rocdoc]

Thanks, I too read the stickies above and I got the bases for setting it up but I didn't find more information. I think I will go with the live rock and let it cycle since I don't want to be doing so many water changes. This salt isn't cheap ha!

BTW any rec. on what size of QT tank I should get? I will buy the smallest fish I can because I wan to see them grow, but I am not sure what size is suffecient for a QT tank. 10 gallons?

If you put live rock in the QT, you will need to keep the tank running full time, which may end up costing you more than the salt. If you use any medication in the QT tank, you have to remove the LR and you shouldn't put it in the DT, so then your stuck. I would recommend against LR in the QT.

For size, it would depend on whether you have a separate Hospital tank. If you don't, you'll need a QT tank large enough to house ALL your (now not so small) fish later on if they develop ich or some other disease that has to be treated outside of your DT. The hope is that this will be a rarity due to pristine QT practices, but the reality is that you will likely need to use a hospital tank at one time or another.

FWIW, I just picked up a couple of extra 29g "Deluxe" setups from Petco. They come with heater, filter, full fluorescent hood, etc. On sale for $70, plus have a $10 MIR. If you have the space, this may make a reasonable QT tank setup at a not too high price.

[lacosta28]

Thanks for all the information I am understanding this a lot more now except for a few things. What is the pvc pipe fittings for? Also, what about water flow? No need for a pump like a cheap maxi jet 400?

[Rocdoc]

Thanks for all the information I am understanding this a lot more now except for a few things. What is the pvc pipe fittings for? Also, what about water flow? No need for a pump like a cheap maxi jet 400?

Sorry, the PVC fittings are to provide the stressed new fish an inert place to shelter. They go in the tank, not on it. And most people skip the pumps and just use the filter. The calmer water movement is thought to be less stressful to the fish. Some folks skip the HOB filter completely and just use an airstone with a bag of carbon in a corner.

[lacosta28]

Sorry, the PVC fittings are to provide the stressed new fish an inert place to shelter. They go in the tank, not on it. And most people skip the pumps and just use the filter. The calmer water movement is thought to be less stressful to the fish. Some folks skip the HOB filter completely and just use an airstone with a bag of carbon in a corner.

Awesome, I think I am set now. I saw a setup at petsmart for 40 dollars but the one you mentioned at petco is an even better deal. I will go ge that tomorrow. Since it comes with a heater I can use the 100watt I bought tonight for preparing my water during water changes.

[heidi.i]

Unless you have a place to just set a full, bare & pretty unattractive tank then do what Doc says.
I have so far only kept small fish (clowns cardinalfish and a jawfish) so I only have a 10g (cheap from walmart) It came with hood/light/cover and I run a 100gph power head on one end and a cheap hob filter on the other. I also have a couple pieces of pvc and sometimes add a clump of cheato for more shelter. Reason for no live rock, sand etc? I can add copper to this or any other med to the water if need be.
So I say keep all the stuff very clean and ready when you plan on getting fish use your main tanks water. I AWAYS have one of those little amo alert hangie things (seachem I think makes it) And have to do a 2 or 3 gallon water change every 4 or 5 days.

[duncantse]

You should put a few sponges in your cycling tank first to seed the sponge so when you do set up a QT you don't have to do much water changes.

[badazztealcobra]

Use a sponge filter for the QT. Leave a new sponge in your sump all the time so whenever you find that "gotta have" fish or coral, you can quickly setup a QT tank.

It takes awhile for the nitrifying bacteria to build up on the sponge though, so don't leave it in the sump for 2 days and think it'll be good. It takes weeks for it to become fully colonized...

If you go with a 20g tank, go for a 20l. If you plan on keeping a tang, I would definitely invest in the 20L and look for a small tang to QT. If you plan on only keeping very small fish that don't swim non-stop you can probably get away with a 10g.

Here's a really good article that explains a lot:

http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2004-10/sp/feature/index.php

[Virtuoso]

If you keep the sponge in your sump does it eventually become a nitrate factory?

[badazztealcobra]

If you keep the sponge in your sump does it eventually become a nitrate factory?

From the article:

While the nitrate produced by this unit may concern some, it should be of small consequence to most mature displays. With the increasingly common combined use of protein skimmers, deep sand beds, and macroalgae harvesting from refugium tanks, the minor amount of nitrate produced from one tiny sponge filter should be undetectable in an otherwise healthy display. If some aspect of husbandry is already lacking, this added nitrate is certainly not going to help, but the sponge filter can hardly be blamed.

My nitrates are always undetectable, so I have never noticed anything....

[sasharotty]

Thanks for all the information I am understanding this a lot more now except for a few things. What is the pvc pipe fittings for? Also, what about water flow? No need for a pump like a cheap maxi jet 400?

Sorry, the PVC fittings are to provide the stressed new fish an inert place to shelter. They go in the tank, not on it. And most people skip the pumps and just use the filter. The calmer water movement is thought to be less stressful to the fish. Some folks skip the HOB filter completely and just use an airstone with a bag of carbon in a corner.

So what about coral? Would you then use the ph?

[Sk8r]

I'm not personally a believer in cycling ANYTHING for a qt, nor in having live rock or sand in it, and here's why.
1) we used to keep fish with nothing but floss and carbon frequently changed, and it still works. No dirt in the tank, no ammonia.
2) sponges are a nitrate-holding detriment to the tank they're kept in.
3) sand is where ich goes to reproduce: it'll be waiting for the next occupant. See reason 4.
4) live rock or sand will be dead rock or sand the first time you have to treat---so you either have to have yet one MORE small tank devoted to hospital---and if a fish can survive and get well of what ails it during 4 weeks in hospital, with only floss filter, no carbon, (meds would kill anything in a sponge) it can just as well survive in a completely bare glass box for 4 weeks as a quarantine tank.
5.) it's easy to maintain a qt if you just fill it with new salt water and set a heater going the day before you go after a fish---incidentally ask your fish source where they keep their fish salinity and set your qt for that---so when you come home with your new fish, skip any drip acclimation and just put him straight over into the qt as soon as you've verified the salinity in his bag is as you were told.
Bare glass, pvc elbow, heater, jump barrier (lighting grid), no lights, fill-line clearly marked on glass to maintain salinity, possibly an ATO and/or refractometer, which you can afford now that you don't have to buy yet one more tank setup. Store it in your attic when not in use.

BTW, it takes 4 weeks to qt, 4 weeks to cycle plus 2 more for your CUC to work...no sense not getting one small fish in your second week, knowing he'll have a home to go to by the time his qt is over.

[lacosta28]

Okay so I have an update. My amonia tested at 0 last week and 0 tonight. My nitrites were at 1.0 last week and .2 (the lowest on test) this week. My test doesn't have a zero for Nitrite just .2 which is light pink. If they were zero would it be clear instead?

anyway I have a few questions. When do I start looking at getting a CUC? Do I have to QT the CUC as well?

[bamf25]

I was debating getting one of those beginer 20g all in one aquarium kits for a QT. Most come with a tank, hob filter, heater, and a cover with cheep light. They have them for sale near me for like $80 for that size. Is this a good way to do a easy QT setup?

[lacosta28]

I was debating getting one of those beginer 20g all in one aquarium kits for a QT. Most come with a tank, hob filter, heater, and a cover with cheep light. They have them for sale near me for like $80 for that size. Is this a good way to do a easy QT setup?

I think that is a good deal. I bought all my stuff seperate and it cost me a lot more than 80 dollars. I bought the tank, heater, HOB filter, pvc elbows, and a cheap plastic for a top cover that I still need to cut to size.

[richiethered]

BTW, it takes 4 weeks to qt, 4 weeks to cycle plus 2 more for your CUC to work...no sense not getting one small fish in your second week, knowing he'll have a home to go to by the time his qt is over.[/QUOTE]

Sorry for this dumb question. What is CUC? Ive gotten FOWLR, HOB filter, QT tank, etc...but I havent a clue as to what CUC is. LOL

[wmdick_2007]

BTW, it takes 4 weeks to qt, 4 weeks to cycle plus 2 more for your CUC to work...no sense not getting one small fish in your second week, knowing he'll have a home to go to by the time his qt is over.

Sorry for this dumb question. What is CUC? Ive gotten FOWLR, HOB filter, QT tank, etc...but I havent a clue as to what CUC is. LOL[/QUOTE]

http://www.reefsanctuary.com/forums/just-starting-out-sw-beginners/45944-whats-cuc.html

Usually refers to a "Clean-up-Crew" --- in my case that is me with a bucket !

[richiethered]

Thanks. so many initials to memorize.

[CarolinaGuy]

There is a "sticky" at the top of this forum listed a "RC Acronyms", it's here that you can find all the initials used in the site.

[Sk8r]

cuc is cleanup crew. NOT a cucumber, which can be toxic.

[RegalAngel]

So I am in my first week of cycling my 90g tank. I want to setup a QT tank for when I start to get fish and corals in about a month. So far all I have bought is the heater. I was going to buy the tank too but I don't know what size I should get. I was thinking a 10g but people said I should get something bigger. Would 20g be good enough? Also how does a QT tank exactly work? I may sound dumb but wouldn't you have to cycle that tank too? Do I need to set it up now so it is cycled in a month like the main tank?


If you have a filter setup on the tank with pads then no need to cycle the tank each time you wish to use it.

I use Seachem's Stability and it works like a charm each time I get a fish that goes in the QT:

http://www.seachem.com/Products/product_pages/Stability.html

Stability® will rapidly and safely establish the aquarium biofilter in freshwater and marine systems, thereby preventing the #1 cause of fish death: "new tank syndrome". Stability® is formulated specifically for the aquarium and contains a synergistic blend of aerobic, anaerobic, and facultative bacteria which facilitate the breakdown of waste organics, ammonia, nitrite and nitrate. Unlike competing products, the bacteria employed by Stability® are non-sulfur fixing and will not produce toxic hydrogen sulfide. Stability® is completely harmless to all aquatic organisms as well as aquatic plants, thus there is no danger of over use. Stability® is the culmination of nearly a decade of research and development and represents the current state of the art in natural biological management.

Sizes: 50 mL, 100 mL, 250 mL, 500 mL, 2 L, 4 L, 20 L

Why It's Different
Illustration of Stability's™ bacteria on biofiltration material. stability contains a synergistic blend of aerobic, anaerobic, and facultative bacteria
The bacteria used in competing products are inherently unstable. The conditions necessary for their growth and development fall into a very narrow range of temperatures, pH, organic loads, etc. When any of these parameters are not strictly within the proper range, the bacterial culture quickly crashes and dies. Stability® does not contain any of the aforementioned bacteria.

The bacteria strains in Stability® have been in development for over a decade. The necessary conditions for growth of our bacterial strains encompass a very broad range. When other bacteria begin to die off (usually from high organic loads caused by the undetected death of an organism), Stability® simply works harder and grows faster! The strains function in fresh or saltwater. Stability® contains both nitrifying and denitrifying bacteria, a blend found in no other product. Additionally, Stability® contains facultative bacterial strains which are able to adapt to either aerobic or anaerobic conditions. The bacteria in Stability® are non-sulfur fixing, another innovation in the industry. Most other bacterial supplements will form toxic hydrogen sulfide under the proper conditions. Stability® will not, ever