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Hydrologist
02/27/2011, 06:58 AM
I am in the process of upgrading systems and I am looking at purchasing a tank with the following dimensions 84"x30"x27".

The tank will need to be drilled on the back glass pane rather then the bottom as I am running the plumbing to a sump that will be about 10' away (Bottom of tank will sit about 30" of the ground the top of the sump will be about 25" from ground). I am planing to run a return pump rated around 2000gph.

I am thinking of putting a coast to coast overflow (internal) along the back of the tank. I would like to use the Herbie method and have two returns, two drains (4 holes total). The returns would also be drilled in the back pane and go right through the internal overflow box.

My questions...

What size holes would be needed? and how would you do the herbie plumbing with the holes running along the back pane? Would you do a coast to coast overflow even though it is internal? What would the dimensions of the overflow box need to be?

Thanks for your help,

BeanAnimal
02/27/2011, 09:28 AM
You will need to provide more detail.

What is the height of the water level in (from the floor) and the height of the water level in the intake compartment of the sump (from the floor).

You say 10' away: Is it a straight shot or will there be bends? How much of a slant can you put on the pipes? (I.E. are the going through a wall, over or around equipment, etc.)

Hydrologist
02/27/2011, 11:52 AM
Height of water level in sump 7-9" sump dimensions (60"x30"x18") - Sump will sit level on the same floor as the tank.

Tank will sit 30" off of floor. Piping will be straight as the DT will be along the same wall as the sump, just ~10' away from it.

There will be nothing obstructing the piping as it will go along wall from the DT to the sump. See attachment

Do you think I could get away with drilling the bottom of the tank? running the drains from the bottom of the tank to the sump?

reefermad619
02/27/2011, 12:36 PM
I would look into the bean overflow.

Hydrologist
02/27/2011, 03:45 PM
Hmmmm....the bean system looks like the best bet if I have to drill the holes on the back glass pane. However, I am now thinking drilling the back pane isn't the best idea as I would prefer to have the tank sit flush with the wall.

Do you think I could get away with drilling the bottom glass pane and just run the Herbie? Is the height difference between the bottom of the DT tank and the sump/sump water level sufficient enough to run the Herbie method?

snulma1
02/27/2011, 08:45 PM
Your original post said you are drilling the back rather then the bottom. And I would make sure that you can drill any of those panels, but I would highly doubt you could drill the bottom as its most likely tempered glass, but all 5 may be tempered. double check before drilling.

But if you have a choice, while the Herbie is a great drain. Having the emergency 3rd drain is great and I highly recommend it.

BeanAnimal
02/27/2011, 09:22 PM
Either system will work drilled through the back or the bottom of the tank.

nanonubey
02/27/2011, 11:04 PM
My overflow is pretty quiet with a standard durso but my friend has the Bean style on his 220 and it's dead silent! Just thought I'd throw that out there.

reefermad619
02/28/2011, 12:10 AM
Iirc 1' of 1" pipe at full siphon can handle 1000+ gph. Even more if you use 1.5" pipe. I've seen people convert their RR tanks to run the herbie setup.

Hydrologist
02/28/2011, 06:40 AM
Thanks for the responses.

Tank is not built yet, just going through the planning process. I think I will just drill the bottom and set up two overflow boxes similar to the picture below.

Any idea on what size holes/pipe/bulkheads I should use to cover the distance/flow rate of about 2000gph?

Thanks again

BeanAnimal
02/28/2011, 07:43 AM
Your original idea, using a single coast to coast overflow with a siphon was much better plan for many reasons. You can still plumb it through the bottom of the tank.

You arew noever going to get 2 "herbie" setups to stay synced properly.

BeanAnimal
02/28/2011, 07:44 AM
My site
http://beananimal.com/projects/silent-and-fail-safe-aquarium-overflow-system.aspx

The Thread
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=1310585

There is a siphon flow rate calculator on my site that may help you.

Hydrologist
02/28/2011, 08:36 AM
Your original idea, using a single coast to coast overflow with a siphon was much better plan for many reasons. You can still plumb it through the bottom of the tank.

You arew noever going to get 2 "herbie" setups to stay synced properly.

I am having a hard time picturing this setup, do you have any drawing/photos?

reefermad619
03/01/2011, 12:54 AM
I would definitly use the bean. I use it and love it. The tank is so quiet that I'm noticing how loud other stuff is in the tank.

Hydrologist
03/01/2011, 07:59 AM
Sounds like the Bean system is the best option for my tank.

I have used the calculator and figure a 1.5" bulkhead would work (1.5" pipe). So I would drill three holes to accommodate the three drains required for the Bean system and I would also drill 2 more holes for the return. Correct?

Now, how do you properly size the dimensions of the overflow box to accommodate the 1.5" bulkhead/fittings that will be inside the overflow box? (returns would be 3/4" pipe/Bulk heads)


I know Bean on your system you said you drilled your holes 4.25" from the top of the trim. Since I am using 1.5" rather then 1" would I just need to increase the 4.25" to 4.75"? You also said the bottom of your overflow box was 6" from the top of your trim, again would I want to increase the depth of the box by about an 1"???? (tank will be eurobraced so I assume I need to factor that in as well, increasing the depth of the box??)

So would a box depth of 8" from top of the trim be sufficient? What would the width of the box need to be? Assuming I am using 1.5" fittings would a 4" width be sufficient?

Thanks again for the help,

reefermad619
03/02/2011, 11:20 AM
The overlfow can be whatever size you want it to be. I didn't use a coast to coast on my setup. Althought that would have been the most efficient way to go. I decided to leave some space at each end of the overflow so I could have a place to run my return and powerheads. The overflow only needs to be big enough to get your elbows on and out. I have about 1/2" under the opening of the elbow from the bottom of the overflow. And front to back I have enough to get the elbow in and out of the bulkhead. The length is up to you.

Hydrologist
03/02/2011, 11:34 AM
Perfect! thanks for the response