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View Full Version : The start of Liz's 8ft of ocean


liz62
03/04/2011, 06:43 PM
Ok, well I have ordered a new tank and I am very excited to be starting a new reef!

The tank is being made by John at NAFB . It will be coast to coast on one end with Herbie drains and dual returns. I hope to post pics. of the build as it progresses from sheets of glass to a 96L x 20W x18H rectangular vessel that will hold my little piece of the ocean.

I picked up a 40gl for a new Sump today and I am busy this weekend building the stand. I will try and post pics. of the stand build. Next week I will worry about getting the Sump built.

For lighting of the tank I am planning on two 48 3watt Cree LED kits with four 16" heatsinks. I say planning because I don't have a clue how to build such a thing but I am confident I can figure it out. I haven't settled on the optics yet but I leaning towards 80.

The aquascaping will be a series of SPS island's - I am thinking four island's and positioning each one directly under a LED fixture.

Well that is it for now - I have to get back out to the garage so I can get the stand build moving forward!

Comments and suggestions are always welcome. I know there are some awesome builds on this forum so please share your knowledge!

geaux xman
03/04/2011, 06:46 PM
its it 1/2" glass with eurobrace? acrylic? i saw your other thread. it made me regret getting a 5ft tank, but thats neither here nor there now.

liz62
03/04/2011, 06:47 PM
its it 1/2" glass with eurobrace? acrylic?

Sorry I forgot that - it is 1/2" glass and eurobracing isn't needed.

geaux xman
03/04/2011, 06:57 PM
what is the projected delivery date? what kind of fish are you keeping?

NKYdude
03/04/2011, 06:57 PM
I'll be using LED lighting for my next build, keep us posted with the sources you're using to figure out the build and lots of pics during!

lordofthereef
03/04/2011, 06:58 PM
Eager to see those pics!

geaux xman
03/04/2011, 07:31 PM
i'm surprise that an 8ft tank can be done on 1/2" glass without any bracing.

i'm sure they're professionals there, but i'd still get a second opinion.

liz62
03/04/2011, 07:56 PM
Here are some pics. of the stand coming together.
Bottom and top boxes (rectangle) are constructed.

A pic. of the tank I picked today for my sump.

Enough for tonight will go back out tomorrow and finish it up!

liz62
03/04/2011, 07:58 PM
what is the projected delivery date? what kind of fish are you keeping?

We will be picking up the tank probably next Saturday.

The fish that I have in my current tank: yellow tang, school of chromis, green coris wrasse, blennie, and a couple of clowns.

liz62
03/04/2011, 08:00 PM
I'll be using LED lighting for my next build, keep us posted with the sources you're using to figure out the build and lots of pics during!

I will be getting my kits from Rapid Led.
So far the communication has been excellent - many, many emails back and forth.

liz62
03/04/2011, 08:01 PM
i'm surprise that an 8ft tank can be done on 1/2" glass without any bracing.

i'm sure they're professionals there, but i'd still get a second opinion.

It's only 18 high and 20" wide - so 1/2" is no problem.

I forgot - the tank is going to be rimless!

liz62
03/04/2011, 09:36 PM
Any ideas of what I can use to waterproof the inside of the stand?
The stand will be on hardwood flooring and I don't want spills seeping through.

cakemanPA
03/04/2011, 09:44 PM
I put several coat of Kilz primer on mine. I know some others who lined there with rubber or built plastic trays.

Nice work so far Liz

liz62
03/04/2011, 09:50 PM
Hey cakeman - thanks and thanks for the pics of your tank too!

Will the Kilz give me any sort of waterproofing though?
I am thinking maybe a marine epoxy might work?

liz62
03/05/2011, 10:21 AM
anybody?

cakemanPA
03/05/2011, 10:26 AM
The Kilz I bought was/is supposed to provide waterproofing. But I bought it to mainly protect the wood in the stand. I built all my stuff to prevent leaks and waster getting out of the sump or the aquarium. If I get water out of things enough to get through the wood of the stand, I have had a catastrophic problem and not amount of waterproofing the stand would have helped.

liz62
03/05/2011, 10:29 AM
The Kilz I bought was/is supposed to provide waterproofing. But I bought it to mainly protect the wood in the stand. I built all my stuff to prevent leaks and waster getting out of the sump or the aquarium. If I get water out of things enough to get through the wood of the stand, I have had a catastrophic problem and not amount of waterproofing the stand would have helped.

Yes I guess you are right. I just want added security being that the tank is on hardwood flooring. I am not talking about a flood, just every day accidents that can happen.

robertifly
03/05/2011, 01:49 PM
Just thinking you may want to put down some type of a water proof pad under the stand just in case there were some leakage in the sump area it wouldn't get to the wood underneath. Good luck and I'll be following along enjoy the build.

liz62
03/05/2011, 02:30 PM
Anyone have any experience with a product call "Stop Leak"?

It comes in a aerosol can and be painted over. Saw it at my local hardware store.

Just wondering if this would be a good product to waterproof the floor of the stand?

aleonn
03/05/2011, 03:40 PM
You've got an exciting build!

A few coats of Kilz Premium worked great for me in terms of water proofing the stand and canopy.

Jeff000
03/05/2011, 03:56 PM
I built my stand from plywood and made it so that the inside had a 6" lip, all I did was silicone the seams and then paint it. It would take the water a long time to get through the plywood without the pain even. Paint is a pretty good sealer on its own too.

Your biuld looks good, Looking forward to more pictures.

96 LED's doesn't seem like enough for an 8' tank though. But looking forward to seeing how it looks.

liz62
03/05/2011, 04:28 PM
You've got an exciting build!

A few coats of Kilz Premium worked great for me in terms of water proofing the stand and canopy.

Thanks - I might just try the Kilz but the "stop leak" product is pretty reasonable - about $10 can so I can't go wrong with that and as I said it is paintable too.
I believe it drys white?

liz62
03/05/2011, 04:32 PM
I built my stand from plywood and made it so that the inside had a 6" lip, all I did was silicone the seams and then paint it. It would take the water a long time to get through the plywood without the pain even. Paint is a pretty good sealer on its own too.

Your biuld looks good, Looking forward to more pictures.

96 LED's doesn't seem like enough for an 8' tank though. But looking forward to seeing how it looks.

You are right paint is pretty good sealant - I think I am just looking for some extra insurance though - I would be very upset if water got on my hardwood not to mention how my husband might react lol

The led # was recommend by Rapid Led. I am also going to go with 80 optics I think.
The aquascaping is going to be a series of 4 SPS island's and I will position one fixture over each. I think it should work pretty good?

liz62
03/05/2011, 04:33 PM
Just a little update as to where I am with my stand build.

This what I have done so far. I will have to call it quits for today cuz I ran out of deck screws. Who knew stands needed so many screws lol.

I went with a height of 35" and the finished height should be around 36" to 36 1/2".

robertifly
03/05/2011, 04:37 PM
Excellent choice of height for the stand, I made our bath room counters and tank stand the same it is much easier to view and use.

liz62
03/05/2011, 05:07 PM
Excellent choice of height for the stand, I made our bath room counters and tank stand the same it is much easier to view and use.

Yeah I think it should be a nice height.

With my current set-up I built the stand for it too and I made it finished 37" which was a great height too. I dropped it the 1" just to make it a little more viewable from the couch.

liz62
03/05/2011, 07:02 PM
So does the stand look ok so far?

I will be adding vertical post as well - thinking 4 for the back and maybe 3 for the front.

Will this be adequate or do I need more bracing? (the stand is upside down in the pic.)

MentalNote
03/05/2011, 07:47 PM
I did a bit of research on waterproofing my stand when I built it.

I ended up making a "tray" by pocket drilling 3" high 3/4" plywood around the border of my sump area. I then painted it and siliconed the seams. As a final measure I used a bartop epoxy inside the sump to truly seal it. I also brushed the epoxy onto the 3" lip.

Sure it is probably overkill but I had just finished laying the hardwood floor and wanted to keep it safe.

eweinig
03/05/2011, 08:06 PM
I like the higher stand - I went 38" on a std 180g and have no regrets, but do get wet sleeves.

liz62
03/05/2011, 08:13 PM
The entire base of my stand will be like a "tray".
I ran my 2x4 bracing horizontal rather vertical on the bottom of the stand to incorporate it.

What is bartop epoxy?

liz62
03/05/2011, 08:43 PM
Does anyone think I could use spray on bed liner - the kind they use for trucks?

on the spot
03/05/2011, 10:19 PM
What is bartop epoxy?

It's a pouring acrylic resin - that thick plastic looking finish on some bars and restaurant tables...

Does anyone think I could use spray on bed liner - the kind they use for trucks?

You could, but way, way overkill. A few coats of paint and some caulk will fix it up right. If you want to go overboard use an oil based high gloss paint. Mix in some boiled linseed oil. More than you need, but good to go.

So does the stand look ok so far?

I will be adding vertical post as well - thinking 4 for the back and maybe 3 for the front.

Will this be adequate or do I need more bracing? (the stand is upside down in the pic.)

The stand is coming along very nice. Is your Husband letting you do the work or is this a collaborative effort? credit where it's due. :)

liz62
03/06/2011, 09:50 AM
It's a pouring acrylic resin - that thick plastic looking finish on some bars and restaurant tables...

Probably more than I need!


You could, but way, way overkill. A few coats of paint and some caulk will fix it up right. If you want to go overboard use an oil based high gloss paint. Mix in some boiled linseed oil. More than you need, but good to go.

I am really leaning toward just caulking really well and painting - this seems to be what most people do?


The stand is coming along very nice. Is your Husband letting you do the work or is this a collaborative effort? credit where it's due. :)

Hey it's all me! This build is my baby!!

cakemanPA
03/06/2011, 10:12 AM
Hey it's all me! This build is my baby!!
Awesome... Keep up the good work!

goochesfish
03/06/2011, 10:13 AM
I caulked every seem with silicone and painted the inside with outdoor water proof paint with several coats. My stand would hold water if it had to.

liz62
03/06/2011, 10:34 AM
I caulked every seem with silicone and painted the inside with outdoor water proof paint with several coats. My stand would hold water if it had to.

Did you use regular caulk or a silicone base caulk?


Awesome... Keep up the good work!

Thanks cakeman! FYI my shoulder is killing me!!!

liz62
03/06/2011, 02:23 PM
If I wanted to go closed loop on this system what would I do?

How many holes would I need? The glass is only 1/2" thick - is that thick enough to go closed loop? What size pump should I go with?

OR/ would I be better with 2 MP40 blasting at each other?

on the spot
03/06/2011, 02:52 PM
If I wanted to go closed loop on this system what would I do?... What size pump should I go with?

I'd start with a visit to Oceans Motions (http://www.oceansmotions.com/store/?osCsid=a4a38f51afb4c10cc7e666e5b7c011d2) web site. You don't need their product but you will get a good education about using a closed loop. I really like their stuff.

A Sequence Dart I think would be up to the task.

...would I be better with 2 MP40 blasting at each other?

This would certainly use less electricity. I don't think it would be enough flow for the four islands of SPS though.

liz62
03/06/2011, 03:46 PM
How many holes would I need? The glass is only 1/2" thick - is that thick enough to go closed loop? What size pump should I go with?

on the spot
03/06/2011, 05:51 PM
If I wanted to go closed loop on this system what would I do?

How many holes would I need? The glass is only 1/2" thick - is that thick enough to go closed loop? What size pump should I go with?

Here is another option...Check out Scotts (http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1908269) tank. It is much larger than yours but the idea is the same as far as the closed loop is concerned. Good guy too. He may have some suggestions now that his tank is running.

Ran across this post (http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showpost.php?p=18350970&postcount=2)...good stuff too.

liz62
03/06/2011, 06:16 PM
Thanks on the spot!

Great build but I don't want all that plumbing showing - this tank and stand are going to be a room so I have will have all the plumbing etc. underneath in the stand. No fish room!

SNAKEMANVET
03/07/2011, 10:10 AM
See ya got your own build thread lol,I will be following this build.It will good rimless.

ironwill723
03/07/2011, 10:23 AM
You would need two MP60s if you went the Vortech route in my opinion because of the tank length.

CalmSeasQuest
03/07/2011, 10:48 AM
Great job so far Liz. I love the dimensions, in fact; I'm building a desktop version of your tank (http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1962399) (long, skinny, shallow) right now.

Tagging along :)

CalmSeasQuest
03/07/2011, 10:58 AM
If I wanted to go closed loop on this system what would I do?

How many holes would I need? The glass is only 1/2" thick - is that thick enough to go closed loop? What size pump should I go with?

OR/ would I be better with 2 MP40 blasting at each other?

I was surprised to find how well water moved in a long-narrow tank. Despite the fact my tank is densely aquascaped, I ended up needing less than 1/2 of the anticipated powerheads. I found the long/skinny shape was very efficient at moving the entire water column.

It seems once you get the water column moving, it tends to keep going (inertia?) It is somewhat linear flow, but adding turbulance takes very little additional flow. I think you'll find you'll need fewer GPH than expected on an 8' tank - I don't think you'll need (or want) anything close to the output of MP60s.

cakemanPA
03/07/2011, 12:55 PM
I am running 2 mp40w's on my 8 foot tank and I am getting plenty of flow.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

liz62
03/07/2011, 01:43 PM
See ya got your own build thread lol,I will be following this build.It will good rimless.

Thanks
Yeah I thought I better start one in the appropriate forum lol
I agree I think the rimless is going to look amazing!

You would need two MP60s if you went the Vortech route in my opinion because of the tank length.
I don't think I am going to need that much flow pointing at each other?

Great job so far Liz. I love the dimensions, in fact; I'm building a desktop version of your tank (http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1962399) (long, skinny, shallow) right now.

Tagging along :)

Thanks calm - I have had a lot of flack about the dimensions on here and another forum that I belong too so I am glad to hear something positive!
Look forward to following your build too!

I was surprised to find how well water moved in a long-narrow tank. Despite the fact my tank is densely aquascaped, I ended up needing less than 1/2 of the anticipated powerheads. I found the long/skinny shape was very efficient at moving the entire water column.

It seems once you get the water column moving, it tends to keep going (inertia?) It is somewhat linear flow, but adding turbulance takes very little additional flow. I think you'll find you'll need fewer GPH than expected on an 8' tank - I don't think you'll need (or want) anything close to the output of MP60s.

This exactly what I am thinking! MP40's on each end and maybe a couple of Koralia's in the back.

liz62
03/07/2011, 01:44 PM
I am running 2 mp40w's on my 8 foot tank and I am getting plenty of flow.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Good to hear!! I agree that 2 MP40's should be sufficient for this build.

phillyfishguy
03/07/2011, 01:52 PM
They make a product red guard its for painting over cement board to make it water tight. It will stick to anything and you can paint over it . I have used this stuff and it will work so do some research on it .

liz62
03/07/2011, 02:04 PM
They make a product red guard its for painting over cement board to make it water tight. It will stick to anything and you can paint over it . I have used this stuff and it will work so do some research on it .

I have already researched that product - just can't seem to find it anywhere though?

SNAKEMANVET
03/07/2011, 04:23 PM
You could use rhino-liner,I found a place near me that does trucks,they are going to sell me gallon of white.It will form a water tight seal.

jimmyjames
03/07/2011, 05:46 PM
Wow... I'm tagging along... this is gonna be a great looking tank!!! BTW... I have a 6' tank... 180 gallons... and... i went from LED back to MH... it just doesn't seem like the technology is there yet. The LED's I had used 3watt Cree lamps as well... it just does not light up the tank like MH's will yet. That is my 2 cents on LED's for a big tank... (The LED for the Nano Cube 28 gallon works great though...:)

Bilk
03/07/2011, 05:59 PM
use a laminate on the surface of the wood and paint the edging or laminate that as well. Easy to do.


Any ideas of what I can use to waterproof the inside of the stand?
The stand will be on hardwood flooring and I don't want spills seeping through.

liz62
03/07/2011, 08:52 PM
Not much to show at this point. We brought the stand in - boy was it heavy.

I screwed down the floor, added some hangers, and some L brackets to the corners for extra strength.

Tomorrow I will get the vertical's on, paint it, and silicone around the floor of the stand.

phillyfishguy
03/08/2011, 01:54 PM
Home depot sells it in the tile section next to the thin set. I have used this product before and it works... You could line the tub band make a fish tank with it lol

liz62
03/08/2011, 07:53 PM
The structure of the stand is done and the interior is painted. Tomorrow I will silicone around the interior base and put the top ply on. The skin can go on later in the week. I also have to get working on a new Sump this week.

I think we are done with pics. of the stand until the tank arrives.

Thanks for all the comments and suggestion - keep them coming!

First pic. is the back of the stand and the second is the front.

phillyfishguy
03/09/2011, 11:46 AM
It is really looking good. I am in the middle of my build also.

cakemanPA
03/09/2011, 12:16 PM
Looking good Liz!

I let my uprights be removable so that I could get my sump in the stand easily. I made my sump just about fill the one side of the stand


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

liz62
03/09/2011, 12:40 PM
It is really looking good. I am in the middle of my build also.

Looking good Liz!

I let my uprights be removable so that I could get my sump in the stand easily. I made my sump just about fill the one side of the stand


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks guys!

I picked up a used tank - 36" (L), 18.5" (D), 15" (H) that I am going to use for a sump. I just need to go to the glass store and get some baffles cut and then silicone them in.

I could add a middle vertical and make it removable by fastening it with a couple of screws.

cakeman did you screw in your removable verticals or just wedge them in?

Liz

liz62
03/10/2011, 01:32 PM
Does anybody have a recommendation on what type of wood I should use for the skin?

It won't be stained - it will be painted but I do want a smooth finish.

I want to go 1/4" or less on it too.

phillyfishguy
03/10/2011, 02:02 PM
If you are painting it I would suggest a good pine with no knots or as little as possible. Just make sure you paint all sides including top and bottom. Not sure about 1/4 inch thick. I know home depot doesn't sell 1/4 inch thick pine

liz62
03/10/2011, 03:40 PM
If you are painting it I would suggest a good pine with no knots or as little as possible. Just make sure you paint all sides including top and bottom. Not sure about 1/4 inch thick. I know home depot doesn't sell 1/4 inch thick pine

That wood is pretty soft and would mark easily wouldn't it?

on the spot
03/10/2011, 07:03 PM
Does anybody have a recommendation on what type of wood I should use for the skin?

It won't be stained - it will be painted but I do want a smooth finish.

I want to go 1/4" or less on it too.

Plywood would be your best bet. For a super smooth no monkeying around surface MDO would be a good choice, but you would have to be OK with 1/2 inch. My 1/4 suggestion would be maple. It will take paint without raising the grain. My next choice would be Baltic birch, it's a 5 ply panel and is less prone to warping but tends to get a bit fuzzy with paint. It will need more sanding between coats than the maple.

on the spot
03/10/2011, 07:05 PM
That wood is pretty soft and would mark easily wouldn't it?

No hockey in the living room. Good advice from my mom, I'll pass it on.

liz62
03/10/2011, 07:54 PM
What is MDO

cakemanPA
03/10/2011, 08:51 PM
I just wedged it in. With the tank weight on the stand, it is not moving now.

I would just get a nice veneer to skin it. I only say that because it is what I am doing with mine

liz62
03/11/2011, 07:58 AM
Thanks cakeman.

I think I am going to go with sliding doors on drawer slides for the 2 center doors. The doors on the end of the stand I think I will make them removable by using maybe earth magnets? Not sure about that though - if anyone has a better suggestion then let me know.

pmrossetti
03/11/2011, 10:11 AM
Hi Liz, looking forward to following your build. btw, have you seen these led fixtures at championlighting.com?
ecoxotic panorama led fixture 23.5 inch fixture with stand mount accessory pack. They look awesome and very versitile.Maybe 4 for your tank would be awesome.
Take a look and tell me what you think. see ya :)

liz62
03/11/2011, 11:53 AM
Hi Liz, looking forward to following your build. btw, have you seen these led fixtures at championlighting.com?
ecoxotic panorama led fixture 23.5 inch fixture with stand mount accessory pack. They look awesome and very versitile.Maybe 4 for your tank would be awesome.
Take a look and tell me what you think. see ya :)

Out of my price range. I am going to go the DIY route with Rapid Led 48 kits.

liz62
03/11/2011, 03:55 PM
Ok I finished up the Sump today and it is ready to go. The left compartment is my drain and skimmer, the middle is my zeovit reactor, and the last my return pump.

I am heading out tonight in search of the right skin for the tank and in all likelihood I will go with 1/2".

I am concerned about painting (fumes) the stand because it is in the same room as my running 75gl set-up. I think I will cut all pieces and paint them before I assemble them - because of the temp. outside I am going to have to paint them in the house - going with melamine.

Does anyone foresee any problems with painting them in the house?

liz62
03/12/2011, 12:32 PM
I got my wood to skin the stand - they didn't have 1/2" in maple or popular so I went with 1/2" G1S fir panel. I also bought the glue on wood band to finish the edges.

I talk to my neighbor who is a professional painter and he suggested High Gloss Tremclad Revive and Protect paint. He said it is fast drying, low VOC , and soap and water clean up. He told me to prime the wood (I am going to sand it too), apply 2 coats of this stuff, and then spray with a clear coat of high gloss Varathane.

So, I picked up that paint too.

I think I am going to have a busy weekend!!

on the spot
03/12/2011, 05:10 PM
What is MDO

Sorry, it's medium density overlay. A 5 equal ply wood core with a thin veneer of pressed resin impregnated fiber. It's used by many DOT for highway signs.

cFloor
03/12/2011, 05:28 PM
As far as waterproofing a wood stand, a good oil based primer followed with a few coats
of high quality exterior house paint with plenty of sheen will work well. Benjamin Moore Aura is amazing, but runs $50 per gallon and is slightly difficult to use, but also has very low VOCs. For caulking, make sure it is "paintable." Most siliconized caulk doesn't accept paint. I'm a house painter, so this was the only thing I was confident in with my new tank build, lol

liz62
03/12/2011, 06:32 PM
Sanding all afternoon - shoulder killing me but it is ready to be primed tomorrow.
Maybe get one top coat in too?

I will put the doors on it after the tank goes on.

liz62
03/13/2011, 07:04 PM
Well the tank is skinned, sanded, primed, and 3 coats of paint have been applied.

I will put the ply on top tomorrow and cut out for the overflow. I know I have a router somewhere in this house lol

liz62
03/17/2011, 03:15 PM
Some pic's taken from when I picked it up. I love it! The guy on the end of the tank is the guy that built it.
It was a long slow drive home!

SawdustInTank
03/17/2011, 04:51 PM
I see Christmas has come early for ya. Tank pic day is always a good day. Tagging along!

liz62
03/17/2011, 07:56 PM
The tank is on the stand - I love it!!

SNAKEMANVET
03/17/2011, 08:05 PM
Looks great liz with it being rimless.Will be following build.

gary faulkner
03/17/2011, 08:34 PM
That's a funny looking fish ya got in there = - 0

Reefnut2010
03/17/2011, 10:14 PM
Very nice tank Liz, and the stand is coming along beautifully. What are the dimensions of your tank? Don't know if they were posted.

Reefnut2010
03/17/2011, 10:19 PM
Never mind 96x18x20. Very Nice.

liz62
03/18/2011, 07:16 AM
Thanks guys! The tank builder wants me to wait until Sunday to start filling it so that the silicone is really cured. It is going to be a long couple of days!

liz62
03/18/2011, 05:56 PM
Tyler from BWI plumbing came over and the plumbing is all done now!
SW goes in either Sunday or Monday.

msudawgs56
03/18/2011, 06:41 PM
Excuse my ignorance, but what is the red handle looks to be on the return line? Looks like you pull it out? Can you explain what that is?

Everything looks great! I know your excited.

biecacka
03/18/2011, 07:12 PM
That's a funny looking fish ya got in there = - 0

dogfish........:wildone:

liz62
03/18/2011, 08:05 PM
Excuse my ignorance, but what is the red handle looks to be on the return line? Looks like you pull it out? Can you explain what that is?

Everything looks great! I know your excited.

It's a gate valve.

on the spot
03/11/2012, 07:56 PM
03/18/2011 07:56 PM
Tyler from BWI plumbing came over and the plumbing is all done now!
SW goes in either Sunday or Monday.

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=142573&d=1300492493

Okay, the last picture we have is of a man's butt while working on your tank, a year ago! What's happened since that most unfortunate picture?