Solaris issue, replacement LED's sold out!

[CloudIX]

Well i know not many people have the solaris light's, but those who do have a BIG problem. The LXK2-PWC4-0180 emitters that everyone has been using to replace the burnt out one's are no longer avail. Ledsupply was the last place i knew that had them and they are sold out. The only ones they have left are the star mounted ones that will not work with the solaris. Trying to unmount the emitters from the star requires a special oven.

Looks like I have no choice but to make a custom board that would use the star mounted type emitters. That would not be a big deal but I cant find the connector to make a direct swap. I know that i could reuse the factory connector, but i want to have replacement's ready to go when they burn out. Here is a pic of the connector if anyone knows where I can get it.

[jtrasap]

Have you tried Newark?

www.newark.com

[CloudIX]

Yes, i looked on there, they don't have K2 that are bright enough. Thanks for the suggestion. As far as the connector goes, I'm not sure what this one would be called. I poked around on there but didn't see it.

[NeveSSL]

http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Tyco-Electronics/102241-2/?qs=AplfTeSvkkAPUvvwrZ9gZg%3d%3d

This one is close, but I don't think its 100% right. It may be close enough, though. It does have the right polarization things on it.

I'll dig around more later and see if I can find an exact part.

Also, note that the picture is only on that page for "illustrative purposes". :) It shows a much higher pin count than the obvious 4 that you need.

Brandon

[Pickupman66]

is that a 4 pin molex plug? or 8 pin? how big is it? or rather how much room do you have to work with?

[NeveSSL]

Its a 4 pin, Lindsey. And I thought it might be molex as well, but others have suggested it could be tyco, which also makes sense.

Probably the most important question is pin spacing. Anyone know that one?

Brandon

[Pickupman66]

Tyco does sound better to me. wasnt sure about the bottom notches.

[NeveSSL]

I thought Tyco looked right, too. Those notches in the bottom are what are throwing me, too, as far as finding an exact match. I've got a feeling there are a couple of different ones that will work, so long as you're careful with polarity. The pin spacing on it is probably nothing special.

Brandon

[CloudIX]

http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Tyco-Electronics/102241-2/?qs=AplfTeSvkkAPUvvwrZ9gZg%3d%3d

This one is close, but I don't think its 100% right. It may be close enough, though. It does have the right polarization things on it.

I'll dig around more later and see if I can find an exact part.

Also, note that the picture is only on that page for "illustrative purposes". :) It shows a much higher pin count than the obvious 4 that you need.

Brandon

That connector looks like the flat connector that connects the audio to the sound card on a CD-ROM drive. I know that one will not work in this application.

[CloudIX]

I thought Tyco looked right, too. Those notches in the bottom are what are throwing me, too, as far as finding an exact match. I've got a feeling there are a couple of different ones that will work, so long as you're careful with polarity. The pin spacing on it is probably nothing special.

Brandon

Since i'm going to be soldering the other end to a board, the polarity is not really important. Getting the right connector, so that it fits snug is the most important part.

[CloudIX]

I went as far as to e-mail this picture to TYCO and they said if it dont have AMP or TYCO logo on it, then it was not there connector.

[Pickupman66]

Interesting.. I have a hard time believeing it was made just for Solaris.

[CloudIX]

Oh me 2, I'm sure someone has them. That company did not have deep enough pockets to have connectors custom made. Plus i think i have seen connectors like this on circuit boards before, I just don't know what they are called.

[pmoneyt]

following this one

[Pickupman66]

how big is it? same size as a CPU fan or disk power cable?

[rcmike]

Brandon, I am disappointed in you. It's a JST-XH connector. Guess what it is used for.

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh249/rcmike1/IMG00014-20110309-1211.jpg

[rcmike]

Oh, btw, if you get one from an R/C place just look for a 3 cell JST-XH balance connector. I know Danielle's RC has some pigtails if you want to get them locally but you might want to call them first.

[CloudIX]

Holy Crap, that's it.. I need to make a run to Danielle's and get a few. I knew i had seen it somewhere.

Once i get the connector i will make a direct swap for some better emitters. I will be measuring the solaris tonight with the clubs new PAR meter. Then once i have made the swap's i will remeasure, so i can show before and after results.

[NeveSSL]

:lol: I'm disappointed in me, too, Mike. I haven't done enough Li-pos yet to have recognized it. Good eye!

Oh, and CloudIX... regardless of how you attach it to the "host" (solder, as you mentioned), the polarity of everything can be reversed if the connector doesn't have any sort of "keying". IE, you can turn it around the wrong way on whatever it plugs in to. That's what I was referring to. :)

Brandon

[NeveSSL]

Here you go: http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=9730

Cut those in half and you're in business. :)

Brandon

[rcmike]

Nope Brandon. Those have female JST-XH on one end and polyquest/thunderpower on the other end. :lolspin:

[NeveSSL]

I quit. Today is not my day. :lol:

Brandon

[rcmike]

:hammer: :wildone:

[CloudIX]

I found them on Digikey, .07 a piece for the connector, .04 a piece for the crimp connector. I got a ton coming in so i can redo the entire light. Much cheaper this way, but a lot more work for me.

Now I'm off to get the emitters, and the aluminum stock and the optics.

Thanks much rcmike, could'nt have found them without you. :)

[rcmike]

The only problem with getting just the connectors is trying to crimp them. I have tried to crimp similar sized connectors and it is very difficult without a special crimper. You could always solder them to the wires I guess.

[NeveSSL]

Same here... it is really difficult. The problem is that the crimping tool is also designed so that everything fits in perfectly when you're finished and it holds solidly. Without it, they can come out or loose.

I would recommend getting some that are already crimped. They're not all that expensive at all at 10 for $2, if you don't mind waiting for them to come out of Hong Kong (usually only takes about 10 days from HobbyKing). :)

Brandon

[CloudIX]

I am going to solder them since salt creep finds it's way into anything and i'm afraid that it would lead to faulty connections over the long term.

[CloudIX]

Same here... it is really difficult. The problem is that the crimping tool is also designed so that everything fits in perfectly when you're finished and it holds solidly. Without it, they can come out or loose.

I would recommend getting some that are already crimped. They're not all that expensive at all at 10 for $2, if you don't mind waiting for them to come out of Hong Kong (usually only takes about 10 days from HobbyKing). :)

Brandon

10 for 2$ ?? i did not find them that cheap. i was finding them for about 2 bucks a piece and 2 * 30 connections was not looking that attractive.

[NeveSSL]

My bad... I think 5 for $2. I was thinking they had dual female jst cables for 3s batteries, which you could effectively cut in half, but they don't. At least not that I've been able to find yet. Sorry about that! I truly believe I do need to quit today... lol.

Brandon

[CloudIX]

My bad... I think 5 for $2. I was thinking they had dual female jst cables for 3s batteries, which you could effectively cut in half, but they don't. At least not that I've been able to find yet. Sorry about that! I truly believe I do need to quit today... lol.

Brandon

That's ok, your allowed to have one off day a year. :eek2:

Now from looking at the current avail star type led's. It seems that the Rebel's are the brightest and the Cree's come in at a close second (according to there spec sheet). Other then Rapidled and ledsource. Are there any more major LED suppliers that I'm missing here?

[CloudIX]

Disregard my last question.. I have the place to get them, but can't mention on this board since they are banned from here.

[pmoneyt]

Cloudix is this for the led's or the connectors?

[CloudIX]

I have the connectors on order, I'm working on the upgraded replacement led's now. I do think that the current drivers inside the solaris units will be able to push leds that will give 3x the output as the stock ones. The PAR values are very disappointing with these units, and i have there 400w version.

[pmoneyt]

wow i have a 24" I4 that i am either going to fix for a qt tank or sell for parts. most of one side is out and needs leds.

[CloudIX]

I have repaired my burnt light's, not a hard job if your handy with a solder iron. Since the lights are no longer sold repairing is not an option unless you can find the k2 in the gullwing style. The problem has not been the led's, it was the lack of thermal grease or shotty soldering from the factory. I would highly suggest anyone with a working unit open the unit and redo all the thermal grease to keep from loosing more lights.

I hope to have direct swap leds after this project is over, so as i loose lights i will have upgraded replacements ready. Who knows i may even make them for sale to the people not willing to DIY.