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TMF89
03/31/2011, 10:17 PM
Hey guys, I'm going to start a 75g reef this summer, probably SPS and LPS, and am wondering what equipment you would recommend? I mean obviously I know about metal halides, skimmers, return pumps, sumps, and what not, but I'm asking for specifics. Like: I would use ______ skimmer, a ______ metal halide supplemented with ________. That kinda thing. Basically if you were building it, what would you use? Figured it'd be a fun activity for some of you, and I think this would be the best way for me to learn.

vdub804
03/31/2011, 10:32 PM
I'm setting up my 75g too so far I have a ev-180 (Skimmer) 2X 150w mh with 14k de bulbs 48" t5ho with 2 10k bulbs 20g long sump refugium hopefully this will get me going, what do you have so far basically you should use a Skimmer that's rated at least 75g as far a lighting goes you could use mh or t5ho or both.

FormulatedFire
03/31/2011, 10:45 PM
I also am setting up a 75g and I currently have an ASM G3 skimmer which is a little over kill, and in the next few days I'm ordering a 6x54w T-5 Tek light fixture. Hope this helps.

Wrench
04/01/2011, 06:59 AM
I would do a 30 breeder sump, Octopus NWB110 or Extreme 160 skimmer, TLF 150 reactor for carbon, BRS drews dosers for two part, mag 7 or 9.5 return pump, Aquacontroller Jr., 2x 250w Finnex Ti heaters and powerheads of your choice. That will set you up with a reliable system.

Lighting is tougher. Halides are going to add a lot of heat to a small system. I would to T5's. Ask some of the lighting gurus about bulb combinations.

t4zalews
04/01/2011, 07:03 AM
My only suggestion is to not go cheap, cuz you'll end up replacing it and spending more money in the long run...did this the hard way.

The Velvet Sea
04/01/2011, 09:09 AM
My 75 SPS/LPS has:

SRO-1000 Skimmer
ATI Sunpower T5 48" 6x54w
Vortech MP40ES
Eheim 1262 return with manifold for 2 BRS reactors
2 independent BRS reactors for ROX 0.8 and GFO
BR-110 Octopus Biopellet reactor fed from MJ900
ViaAqua Titanium heaters 2 x 300w (overkill, but I like the redundancy and I let my home get very cold in the winter before I turn my home heater on)
Reef Keeper Lite controls heaters, lighting and fans
Autotopoff.com float switch controlling RO/DI top off from remote reservoir

I'm currently dosing 2part daily by hand. I plan to buy 2 BRS dosers when they are back in stock to automate that.

phenom5
04/01/2011, 09:21 AM
My 75 SPS/ LPS is set up similar to TVS's

SRO XP1000sss skimmer
6x54W 48" T5 (2x ATI AB Special, 3x ATI Blue +, 1x KZ Fiji Purple
Mag5 return
Vortech
BRS Reactors
Dual Switch Autotopoff.com float switch (ATO is a must on any reef tank IMO)

TonyV
04/01/2011, 10:32 AM
Buy cheap ---> buy twice! That's my motto.

TMF89
04/01/2011, 01:18 PM
Well guys unfortunately I'm on a college budget, I'll be working full time over the summer though, so I should be able to compromise between top of the line and cheapo crap.

As far as a sump I'm thinking at least a 29g, with a platform for the skimmer, so I can have more volume in my refugium. I'd really like to have a pair of mandarins, so I'd like the largest refugium possible.

With the lighting, what if I have a bunch of fans, like four big ones, two on top one on each side? I like the look of metal halides, and I'm custom building a canopy (and stand), so I can make it tall enough and well enough circulated, I think. What do you guys think?

Now one area where I really don't know much is reactors. Like I understand that they have different types of media in them that water is forced through to treat it, but I don't know if there are any general rules to what kind you want for what system, if I need everything from a GFO to a carbon to a phosphate to a calcium reactor, or if that would be overkill, etc. I don't have a problem installing a few (I seem to have naturally bad luck when it comes to my hobbies, plus I would imagine it would create a more stable system with less parameter swings and maintenance requirements). So if anyone could give me a quick run-down on reactors that would be great!

For water movement, I was thinking a Mag 7 with a Tee with a return to the fuge to give the water extra time in there, and to slow down the flow as well. Along with maybe two Koralia 750s (no way I could afford MPs, I'd love to but it's just not realistic), and two 450s? That would give me 2600gph, which is like a 35x turnover rate per hour, plus the sump, which I would try to get around 350gph with a valve on the return to the fuge? What do you guys think about that?

Also, just because I can't seem to make a post on RC without SOME kind of fish stocking list being involved (that's the whole point of this after all lol), I have a VERY rough draft that I'd just like a quick opinion on. Obviously I'll do more research into my list, but I figured I'd just through it up here.

Red Mandarin (x2)

Two pairs of smaller fairy/flasher wrasse

One smaller Tang or Butterfly

Flame Angel (I know about their tendancy to pick at corals but I think they prefer softies, and my tank won't have any. Plus I'll try to keep it well fed enough that it won't bother)

Blenny/Goby of some sort

Fish X, either a mid-sized wrasse or some undecided fish yet (with a length of around 5-7" max)

With my stocking lists I tend to overstock, but I have no problem with extra water changes and maintenance to keep the tank running.

t4zalews
04/01/2011, 01:19 PM
I woudlnt plan on a pair of mandarins...you might be able to keep one

and I would wait at least a year before adding one. takes a while for a full population to get really established

The Velvet Sea
04/01/2011, 02:14 PM
Considering you want to keep SPS but are on a budget, the main things I would not skimp on are the skimmer and lighting.

Regarding reactors, depending on the rest of your setup and maintenance schedule, there are usually acceptable alternatives to having reactors. Calcium reactors can be eliminated through other dosing whether it be kalk top off or 2 part dosing. GFO might not be needed if you have a healthy fuge, careful feedings and diligent maintenance. Carbon could easily be put in a filter sock in a high flow area of the sump instead of a reactor. In most of these examples a reactor will probably perform better, but is not mandatory.

TMF89
04/01/2011, 11:04 PM
Would you say the price of entry level reactors ($60-140 depending on regular media or calcium) is worth it? Basically I'd be buying the peace of mind and less-required maintenance, and the ability to keep my tank's parameters extremely stable by constant dosing with the reactors instead of relying on me or someone else to regularly. If I were to consider buying them, which would you buy first, i.e. the most important?

TMF89
04/01/2011, 11:23 PM
Also, what if I were to use a 55g for a sump to grow a large quantity of pods? I figure I could give it a 30" sump no problem, with just a ton of LR rubble and chaeto.

The Velvet Sea
04/02/2011, 04:51 PM
Calcium reactors have a significant start up cost well beyond $60-140. You have to take into account the reactor, CO2 cylinder & regulator, pH controller and all of that cost for a calcium reactor. A GFO reactor would be my first move since keeping phosphates down in a well lit aquarium for SPS is crucial, and within the $60-140 range. If it were me, I'd start with 2 part dosing by hand as needed with carbon in a filter sock and GFO in a reactor.

I can't comment on pod farming for mandarin raising though.

pkirby
04/02/2011, 05:26 PM
I'd be hesitant to keep 2 mandarins in a 55. If you are able to get them to accept frozen food, then maybe... I haven't tried yet, so I don't know from personal experience. I've read quite a bit though and it's not guaranteed they will ever accept frozen food.

TMF89
04/03/2011, 05:30 PM
I'm sorry I should've been clearer about the setup. It'll be a 75 DT with a 55 SUMP. So I figure I'll be able to get a 20g refugium at least in there, and I've read a ton up on starting pod farms. I'm a huge armchair reefer (that kinda sounds bad huh lol), I probably spend three hours on RC a day, reading forums and threads and articles and what not. While it'd be awesome and the plan to ween them to frozen, I'm not counting on that.

So TVS, you're suggesting that I dose, install a GFO reactor, and finally put a filter sock with carbon somewhere, in that order of importance? I know some people have to change filter socks almost constantly, would I have to as well?

What about this shopping list?

http://www.fosterandsmithaquatics.com/product/prod_display.cfm?c=3578+8067+4175&pcatid=4175
http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/store/products/reactors/gfo-and-carbon-reactors/deluxe-brs-gfo-and-carbon-reactor.html

http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/store/products/carbon-and-gfo/bulk-gfo-granular-ferric-oxide-phosphate-remover/bulk-pellet-gfo-phosphate-remover/2-pounds-half-gallon-bulk-gfo-pellets-ferric-oxide.html

http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/store/3-pounds-1-gallon-bulk-lignite-aquarium-carbon-1.html

Also I could grab a two part reactor for $60 that would allow me to house both carbon and the GFO in it. Worth it?

The Velvet Sea
04/03/2011, 07:48 PM
Yes, if I was in a budget crunch and trying to keep SPS, I would dose 2 part daily by hand, run a GFO reactor and run carbon passively in a filter sock.

Regarding filter socks. There are two general ways that they are used. Most people use them for mechanical filtration on the drains from the main display tank into the sump. Those filter socks should be changed out and cleaned at the very least once per week, and preferably more often than that. Filter socks for mechanical filtration on drains usually have a plastic ring like this (http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/store/products/miscellaneous/aquarium-filter-socks-and-bags/brs-mesh-filter-sock-4-x-14-200-micron-w-plastic-ring.html).

People also use filter socks to hold media like activated carbon which is what I am suggesting. When used for media, you don't put the sock on the drain, you just put carbon in the sock and close it, then put it in a high flow area of the sump where water will flow around it and through it to some extent. You don't need to clean the filter sock as often as in the first example because you aren't flowing as much water through the sock and aren't trying to use the sock as mechanical filtration. Socks used for media should not have a plastic ring, but instead should have a draw string to close them like this (http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/store/products/miscellaneous/aquarium-filter-socks-and-bags/brs-mesh-filter-sock-4-x-8-00-1micron-w-draw-string.html).

I do not like the BRS dual reactor, even though it is a good value, because carbon and GFO have different optimal flow rates, but that is better than running carbon in a filter sock. My order of preference:

1) 2 independent reactors, 1 for carbon, 1 for GFO
2) a Dual reactor running both carbon and GFO
3) a reactor for GFO, and carbon in a filter sock in the sump

Regarding the reef builder on your shopping list: I've never used a powdered alk & cal supplement like that but I know someone that swears by the similar Tropic Marin Bio-Calcium product. I stick with 2 part liquid supplements like Kent Tech CB, ESV B Ionic and Randy's 2 part recipe.

TMF89
04/06/2011, 12:47 AM
Sounds good. I'll probably just run two reactors and dose, the peace of mind will be worth the extra few $ IMO. Random question, but what kind of flow would I want for them? I know you said earlier that carbon and GFO should be run at different flow rates, just wondering what those are? Also I was just reading another build thread where the OP just hooked lines from his return pump into the reactors. Until I saw that I was just planning on using two separate pumps for the reactors, but that seems like a much cleaner approach. Thoughts?

TRIGGERMAN NYC
04/06/2011, 02:21 AM
Sounds like you are off to a good start the bigger the sump the better. Mandarins are a pain to keep alive and do require large amounts of pods so as recommended I agree it's not a good starter fish. The fact you are planning on a canopy I would say go w/ 6 T5's retro fitted into it instead of halides. Less heat especially when enclosed into a canopy,you don't want to have heat issues. Then you would need to buy a chiller they are definitely NOT cheap even used. A few small fans will do the trick. I would also suggest having the entire back section of your canopy open for ventilation.

As far as a skimmer there is so many to choose from man just just something that is made by a decent company and rated for atleast 200-250 gallons.

Power heads are no big deal just get a few koralias or something similar they will do the trick.

Good luck man

Vipete1985
04/06/2011, 02:25 AM
if u want to start a pod population for ur mandarins ur best bet is a HOB refiugium because a sump fuge by the time they make it up to ur display u figure one outta ten is gonna make the treacorus ride through ur mag drive return or whatever return pump u get....another good way to seed ur display is to do the old switcharro with some live rock and ur sump pull a piece up from the sump to display n dump a piece down to ur sump from ur display but that way is a slow process n it willl take a good year to really seed the tank with ample amount of pod population for 1 let alone two mandarins....i was stubborn n thickheaded wanting mandarins only to kill three so far n im going to give it a rest because its just not worth killling these beautfiul fish because of my greeedyness to want one.....my tanks beeen running for a year n i constantly add reefpods once every other month n i have a sump fuge

The Velvet Sea
04/06/2011, 07:20 AM
Sounds good. I'll probably just run two reactors and dose, the peace of mind will be worth the extra few $ IMO. Random question, but what kind of flow would I want for them? I know you said earlier that carbon and GFO should be run at different flow rates, just wondering what those are? Also I was just reading another build thread where the OP just hooked lines from his return pump into the reactors. Until I saw that I was just planning on using two separate pumps for the reactors, but that seems like a much cleaner approach. Thoughts?

Flow through GFO in a reactor should be enough to keep it lightly tumbling. You don't want it going nuts as it will grind and produce fine GFO dust, but you want it to tumble a little bit so that is doesn't clump together. Flow through carbon should be a bit slower to maximize contact time. I set my flow to a very slow stream.

If your return pump can handle it, running your reactors off of it is a good way to go. I run my GFO and carbon off of the return pump, but I needed a separate power head to provide flow to by biopellet reactor since it needed a bit more than my return could give it.

TMF89
04/06/2011, 12:07 PM
Thanks for all the info guys! As far as the mandarins go, honestly I'm pretty sure I've read up on them about as much as I can, and know everything I'm able to know at this point lol. I'm hoping with a giant fuge and a separate 10g dedicated to pod farming I can keep up with them.

As far as the MH vs T5s, would four fans, one on each end pulling air in, and two on top pulling air out be enough airflow? I really want a fully enclosed canopy so I guess it'll depend on that. Also I'm in Northern Minnesota, so the house stays pretty cool year round, hopefully that will help. As long as we're on the topic of lighting, what would you guys recommend for getting a white with a slight blue tint look? I don't like the really low K value bulbs that give off the yellow/natural sun color, but I also really don't like a really blue look. I'd like it to be white with a hint of blue. I was thinking two 150s at either 14 or 15k, along with two supplimental T5 bulbs, one actinic and one somewhere between 14-20k, I know that MHs can't be on for too long, and I figure I can use the one white T5 bulb to light the tank for the rest of the day. i.e. MHs on for 6-8 hours, and the rest of the time (during the day/viewing period) the T5 will allow for viewing. The actinic would be for purely asthetic purposes if I even used it at all. Although I've heard that certain corals respond better to actinic lighting? Could someone give me a little info on that? Again all this could change to a purely T5 fixture depending on your alls' thoughts.

And TVS, I think I'll plan on just running everything off my return pump to keep things simpler. I'm thinking a Mag 9? Also could you give me a rough estimate of exactly how much GPH should go through the reactors, if you know, just so I can try and get an idea of how it'll impact flow to the whole system and what not.

Thanks again for all the info guys!

TMF89
04/06/2011, 01:21 PM
Also sorry for the double post but are there any skimmer brands out there I should specifically stay away from? And As of now I have two Koralia 450s, however I've noticed that they SEEM TO put out WAY less force than a Maxijet I have that's only rated for 150. The Maxi's output nozzle is a lot slimmer than the Koralia's housing obviously, is that the reason for it?

holmstar
04/06/2011, 03:21 PM
While it doesn't seem as forceful, the koralia is actually moving a lot more water and creating a more random flow than the maxijet.

TMF89
04/06/2011, 07:24 PM
I figured, but I wanted to make sure lol. So I have two 400-425GPH Koralias (forgot which), so we'll say 800GPH. Now if I were to get two more of their 700GPH models, I'd wind up with 2100-2200 total GPH without the sump flow, would that be enough or should I go for more?

adam87
04/06/2011, 08:36 PM
I think you need more flow. In my 75 SPS tank, I am using a Voyager 4000 and Maxjet mod for a total of 6100gph.

TMF89
04/06/2011, 11:17 PM
Adam do you have any pix by chance? Sounds like you have something very similar to what I want to do. How about four 850s for 3400 total, along with maybe two 425s blowing straight across the back to keep detrius from accumulating?

The Velvet Sea
04/07/2011, 08:46 AM
I don't really have a good idea of flow rates through my reactors. What I do know is that my Eheim 1262 can run my return flow, carbon and gfo reactors just fine, but trying to add my bio pellet reactor was asking too much of it. The flow to the tank from the return pump isn't excessive either, because I didn't want the flow through the sump to be too fast. Most of my tank water flow is provided by my vortech in the tank. You may need more flow through your sump since you are planning a large refugium, so I'm not sure how that would impact the needs of your main return pump. Anyhow, my Eheim handles 2 reactors and a moderate flow to the display just fine. Hope that helps.

jmccoya
04/07/2011, 10:21 AM
I think you need more flow. In my 75 SPS tank, I am using a Voyager 4000 and Maxjet mod for a total of 6100gph.

Is this counting your return pump from the sump, or is this just the flow in your display tank? Love this thread, putting together a 90g SPS, keep the posts coming.
Thanks

nemosworld
04/07/2011, 10:32 AM
check out avastmarine, they have a lot of reactors there, great prices. both assembled or diy projects.
great customer service, justin is the man.

TMF89
04/07/2011, 12:12 PM
Thanks for the link, I'll check it out! So I'm thinking I might have to go up to even a Mag 12/Eheim's similar model because of my extra large sump, and it'd give me the ability to run all the reactors I want. I did a quick (and obviously very rough) check with the head loss calculator, and with:
4ft vertical
3ft horizontal (for all the reactors)
6 90d elbows (just a guestimate)
4 gate valves (one for reach reactor, one for Tee to return, and one main one)

And that's all I put in, even though I'm sure there would be more variables, and it told me my GPH will be cut down to 566. That seems awfully low for two reactors plus a huge sump, although maybe I could just not run a Tee return line? That was with a .75 inch return as well, that's pretty standard right? If I upped it to 1", that gives me over 700GPH, so maybe that's an option as well?

nemosworld
04/07/2011, 12:34 PM
i have a quite one 3000, it feeds my DT,Fuge,reactor,chiller and next my calcium reactor.
turnover in my tank comes from 3 koralias evo 1050's. I have lots of 90's on my system. not a 75 but just giving you an idea, you want your DT"S turnover to come from the power heads, not your return pump. would post a pic of my setup, but photobucket and my personal site are blocked by my job. will try to find this post at home and upload pics then.

solitude127
04/07/2011, 12:40 PM
As far as skimmers go, if you're on a budget, the SWC160 would be a great skimmer for you size tank.

The Velvet Sea
04/07/2011, 02:05 PM
Thanks for the link, I'll check it out! So I'm thinking I might have to go up to even a Mag 12/Eheim's similar model because of my extra large sump, and it'd give me the ability to run all the reactors I want. I did a quick (and obviously very rough) check with the head loss calculator, and with:
4ft vertical
3ft horizontal (for all the reactors)
6 90d elbows (just a guestimate)
4 gate valves (one for reach reactor, one for Tee to return, and one main one)

And that's all I put in, even though I'm sure there would be more variables, and it told me my GPH will be cut down to 566. That seems awfully low for two reactors plus a huge sump, although maybe I could just not run a Tee return line? That was with a .75 inch return as well, that's pretty standard right? If I upped it to 1", that gives me over 700GPH, so maybe that's an option as well?

I think the 566 sounds low for that on a mag 12 also. My assumption is that the calculator can't approximate a manifold and it assumes that all of that plumbing is on one line. I use 1" line on my return and it works. Plus 1" specialized fittings (street elbows, reducing adapters etc.) seem to be the easiest to find in that size, I'd stick with 1" if you can. Let me clarify, I use 1" for the return line from the pump, to the manifold and up to the tank. I reduce the line from the manifold to the reactors and use whatever size the large flexible RO type hose that comes with the BRS reactors. I think it is 1/4" OD hose, not certain though.

TMF89
04/07/2011, 04:13 PM
So I've heard the term manifold being thrown around in this thread and others quite a bit, what is that exactly? The area where the water splits from the return to DT to go to other reactors and such? And that makes sense, I didn't figure that most of the reactors will have their own lines. So I'm looking at maybe a foot of horizontal piping, just whatever length I choose to go back over the fuge?

TMF89
04/07/2011, 04:29 PM
i have a quite one 3000, it feeds my DT,Fuge,reactor,chiller and next my calcium reactor.
turnover in my tank comes from 3 koralias evo 1050's. I have lots of 90's on my system. not a 75 but just giving you an idea, you want your DT"S turnover to come from the power heads, not your return pump. would post a pic of my setup, but photobucket and my personal site are blocked by my job. will try to find this post at home and upload pics then.


So you have 3150gph on your 40b? That's like 80x turnover lol! I guess I'll have to buy more powerheads lol. And I'm sorry, I don't quite understand what you mean by lots of 90s but no 75s, do you have additional tanks or something?


As far as skimmers go, if you're on a budget, the SWC160 would be a great skimmer for you size tank.


Sounds good, I like the looks of that skimmer. Are there any brands I should specifically stay away from? Thanks guys!

phenom5
04/07/2011, 04:42 PM
Yup, a manifold is a series of unions & valves that break off from the return line to run reactors, chillers, etc. Sounds like you've got it. Some people (I currently do in fact) run dedicated pumps for their reactors.

As far as skimmers go...


SRO XP-1000sss
Reef Octo Extreme 160
SWC Cone 160
SWC 150BMK
BM NAC6 or NAC7
AquaMaxx 150 or 200
iTech 100
Reef Dynamic INS135
Vertex IN-100 or IN-180 -->Although the Resun pumps Vertex use aren't very good.
ATI PowerCone 160
ATB 840
BK Mini 160


Just depends on what you want to spend, but any of those (and probably a few I missed) will do great on your tank.

Skimmers to avoid...Coralife Superskimmer, Seaclone (do they even still make these?), Aqua Medic Turbofloater.

TMF89
04/07/2011, 05:55 PM
How exactly would you connect/set a manifold up? I get the idea but after a bit of research I can't really find much detail on them.

nemosworld
04/07/2011, 06:49 PM
I was referring to 90 degree elbows (pvc)
full tank shot, (okay 2 1050's and one k3)
http://jandrstudios.smugmug.com/Other/40-gallon-breeder-sps/DSC01330/1243738920_nYT25-M.jpg

in this pic the return pump is feeding the reactor on the left, then behind the skimmer there is a connection for the chiller.
http://jandrstudios.smugmug.com/Other/40-gallon-breeder-sps/DSC01331/1243739177_5xoKy-M.jpg

fuge which is above the sump:
http://jandrstudios.smugmug.com/Other/40-gallon-breeder-sps/DSC01332/1243739404_Jxhtf-M.jpg

drains and return:
http://jandrstudios.smugmug.com/Other/40-gallon-breeder-sps/DSC01333/1243739731_nt83B-M.jpg

chiller which i will tanp into it's feed to add my calcium reactor:
http://jandrstudios.smugmug.com/Other/40-gallon-breeder-sps/DSC01334/1243740019_33Ztd-M.jpg

this would be considered a manifold, it connects my two returns.
other manifolds connect reactors,chillers,etc
http://jandrstudios.smugmug.com/Other/40-gallon-breeder-sps/DSC01335/1243740234_ZDy3F-M.jpg

better example of manifold. Not mine:
drummers reef
http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa113/drummereef/180g%20Reef%20Tank/Tank6.jpg

adam87
04/07/2011, 07:47 PM
Is this counting your return pump from the sump, or is this just the flow in your display tank? Love this thread, putting together a 90g SPS, keep the posts coming.
Thanks

No, just from the two pumps.

TMF89
04/10/2011, 08:44 PM
Thanks for the pix and info. So if you guys were to set it up, exactly how would you go about setting up the powerheads, what GPH, what angles would you set them at, etc. I could possibly get a cheap controller, but I'd like to try and keep the budget down. What about a few cheap timers from Walmart, the kind for like $4 that you can set every half hour, so I could do 30 minute alternating currents. Would it be worth it?

TMF89
04/14/2011, 07:42 PM
Bumpidy bump. Sorry but I'm really interested on recommendations on powerhead set-up, that's one area that I don't feel I know enough about.

acrohead500ppm
04/14/2011, 07:54 PM
creating the right flow for sps with non controllable pumps is kinda of an art.

I recommend using one large propeller pump and one slightly smaller, have each at back corners of the tank both pointing toward eachother at a 45 deg angle in correlation of the back glass, tilted slightly upward towards the surface of the water.

the pumps will fight eachother giving you a good wash of random flow in the top half of the tank, tilting them slightly upwards towards the water surface will add more random flow as the water surface acts like a wall with random give.

hope this helps

TMF89
04/14/2011, 08:47 PM
Well I'm considering investing in a cheap controller. Any standard RKL or Aquatroller Mini (forgot what their entry level is) would be able to do it right? Right now there's one in the F/S forum with a temp probe and a DC-8. The probe is pretty self explanatory, and I'm assuming the DC-8 is Direct Current-8? For pumps, powerheads, lights, and heaters? Would a entry-level controller be able to do all that?

Also what specific powerheads would you use GPH-wise? I'll probably just go with Koralia, I definitely can't afford MPs lol.

acrohead500ppm
04/14/2011, 09:02 PM
I would get some maxi mods by sureflow and do the DIY anti reverse shaft sheath, the Hydor koralias will not like being on a controller, after awhile they will chatter, go in reverse, or just kick the bucket.

nikonosis
04/15/2011, 06:05 AM
My sig has what I use for my 75 sps tank.

TMF89
04/19/2011, 07:21 PM
What do you have your vortechs set at? Also what do you dose with? Do you find the dual reactor creates any issues with setting ideal flow rates for the GFO and carbon respectively?

Also guys could you get me some shots of your lighting systems? I really don't want a real blue tank, I'd prefer almost white with a tint of blue. Suggestions?

nikonosis
04/19/2011, 09:29 PM
When it was first being setup. Water was still cloudy.146099

nikonosis
04/19/2011, 09:30 PM
I have my 2 mp10s at 100% reefcrest and my mp40 at 50% reefcrest sync. I have zero problems with the dual reactor. I dose with a marine magic doser from ebay, http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1938900&highlight=marine+magic

nikonosis
04/19/2011, 09:38 PM
I would get some maxi mods by sureflow and do the DIY anti reverse shaft sheath, the Hydor koralias will not like being on a controller, after awhile they will chatter, go in reverse, or just kick the bucket.

maxijets come with sureflow mods these days... http://www.marinedepot.com/Marineland_Maxi_Jet_Pro_Powerhead_Fixed_Flow_Aquarium_Powerheads-Marineland_Instant_Ocean-AS90509-FIPHFF-vi.html

The sureflow does a little more flow or a lot if you use the large propeller.

TMF89
04/20/2011, 01:15 AM
How exactly do you have your PHs set up for flow direction? Also what pump do you use with the dual reactor?

nikonosis
04/20/2011, 10:23 AM
How exactly do you have your PHs set up for flow direction? Also what pump do you use with the dual reactor?

I use vortechs and just have them attached to the back wall. I use a maxijet 1200 for flow through my dual reactor with a ball valve to control it.

TMF89
04/20/2011, 07:16 PM
So you just alternate flow directly across to the front of the glass? What kind of lighting system do you have?

nikonosis
04/20/2011, 09:21 PM
So you just alternate flow directly across to the front of the glass? What kind of lighting system do you have?

MaxSpect G2-160 LED

karsseboom
04/20/2011, 10:52 PM
i would say 2x150 mh is not enought light for an sps tank. Your corals will brown out under those lights. More light the better but atleast 2x250 or if you can go 400w with 20k bulbs. For flo, you cant just throw a bunch of powerheads in the tank. the flow need to be random and i would look into vortech or tunze, the single best thing i did for my corals was buying vortech pumps...

nikonosis
04/20/2011, 10:55 PM
I personally will never use anything but LED's again. MH are a waste of money.

z3r0ko0l
04/20/2011, 10:57 PM
Glad to see another 75g starting up around here. When you where talking about cheap controllers dont forget about the Apex Jr.. Should work well for you and is expandable when you get the funds. Good luck!

TMF89
04/21/2011, 12:12 AM
i would say 2x150 mh is not enought light for an sps tank. Your corals will brown out under those lights. More light the better but atleast 2x250 or if you can go 400w with 20k bulbs. For flo, you cant just throw a bunch of powerheads in the tank. the flow need to be random and i would look into vortech or tunze, the single best thing i did for my corals was buying vortech pumps...

Karsseboom, I really have to consider budget though, while I'm willing to invest enough to keep a successful tank, I do have to keep the college budget in mind lol. In all honesty I don't think I could do more than two MP10s, and that would only be if I got a good deal on them. I plan on using a controller for flow, so I just need reliable powerheads.

As far as lighting goes would you recommend two 400ws or just one, and what do you mean with 20k bulbs?

I personally will never use anything but LED's again. MH are a waste of money.


Howso? Electrical bill-wise? Honestly that's the only area where I can slack a little, my parents pay my housing lol. Or are there other advantages that make them worthwhile?

Glad to see another 75g starting up around here. When you where talking about cheap controllers dont forget about the Apex Jr.. Should work well for you and is expandable when you get the funds. Good luck!

I plan on just getting whatever happens to be in the For Sale forum at the time for the right price lol, but thanks for the recommendation. As for your tank, could you tell me a little more about the lighting and powerhead set-up? Thanks!

karsseboom
04/21/2011, 12:27 AM
You can get tunze for cheap used off ebay? Most people use leds to save electric bill, some say they produce a lot of heat but mine never change my water temp and 80% of people who use mh dont have problems with heat. They just buy them and say things to justify there purchase, but all in all mh are the most proven way to light an sps tank i dont care what anyone says. If you use a controller you might be okay for a bit but sps really need good random flow.

phenom5
04/21/2011, 09:55 AM
Karsseboom, I really have to consider budget though, while I'm willing to invest enough to keep a successful tank, I do have to keep the college budget in mind lol. In all honesty I don't think I could do more than two MP10s, and that would only be if I got a good deal on them. I plan on using a controller for flow, so I just need reliable powerheads.

Vortechs are the way to go, but not if you're on a tight budget. I'm not sure 2 mp10s would be enough flow for a 75. There are plenty of options out there. If I were on a tight budget, I probably go with a couple of Tunze Nano Streams and mod them. A pair of 6025's modded will easily put you in the 30x turnover rate. Not sure how they would do on a controller, but they'll put out a ton of flow for cheap, and they're Tunze.

As far as lighting goes would you recommend two 400ws or just one, and what do you mean with 20k bulbs?

20K (it's actually 20,000K, but...) is the temp (in Kelvin) of the bulb. 20,000 is more towards the blue spectrum, 10,000 being closer to white. FWIW, I'd go with Radiums.

400Ws would work, but IMO not needed. 2x250w would work just fine on a 75. setting up 2x400 won't cost you much more than 2x250, but it'll cost a good bit more to run, and heat can be a real issue with 400s. If you're setting up a standard 75, 1x400 is going to be sitting directly over your center brace. If your tank is rimless, or eurobraced, with the right reflector I think you could get away with just one 400.

Howso? Electrical bill-wise? Honestly that's the only area where I can slack a little, my parents pay my housing lol. Or are there other advantages that make them worthwhile?

LEDs generally cost less to run, produce less heat, and have cool features (which may or may not be of any use...sunrise/ sunset, cloudy days, etc).

MH run hot, and are costly to run. They do produce a really nice look though.

T5's are kind of in the middle of those two. Not as costly to run, and generally don't heat the tank as much. The don't cost as much to purchase as LEDs, but usually cost a little bit more than MH.

TMF89
04/21/2011, 12:28 PM
I think I'll stick to the MHs, now just to decide what bulbs I want in them lol. How exactly do you go about modding the Tunzes? I checked out the 6025s and they're only rated for 600+GPH, so you'd be more than doubling their output?

phenom5
04/21/2011, 12:32 PM
Original Tunze Nano Mod thread (http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=1025361)

I have a 6025 that I did all three mods to, it puts out a ton of flow. Easily over 1000gph.

**EDIT**
Pictures (http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showpost.php?p=9396106&postcount=191) of all three mods.

TMF89
04/21/2011, 02:22 PM
I'm reading through the thread, and I'm finding that certain mods may hamper the start-up of the pumps? If I'm using a controller to control flow and constantly switch the flows of the pumps, I would think that that might be an issue? Have you experienced it at all? What's your water-flow set up in the tank?

phenom5
04/21/2011, 05:00 PM
I use vortechs on my tank, and my modded 6025 has been relegated to saltwater mixing duty.

The start up issues are related to the wide flow mod. There isn't enough room for the prop/ magnet to correct if it starts backwards.

As I said, I'm not sure if those pumps will work with a controller (they don't work with the Tunze controllers).

FWIW, you don't have to have some sort of wave/ controller for your pumps. Nice to have, but not that high on the must have list, IMO. Pointing two or more pumps at each other tends to create some really random flow (that along with banking the flow of the glass was how we use to do it before all these fancy vortechs & controllers).

TMF89
04/21/2011, 05:35 PM
Gotcha. So brand names aside, what kind of flow would you go for? Like X amount of flow coming from two PHs placed on the sides angled towards the front of the the glass, along with one PH placed..... That kind of thing? I'm seeing numbers everywhere from 2100 up to 5000GPH, so I'd like to just get a firm idea on what kind of flow I'll need, then maybe look at brands and models to get that flow.

phenom5
04/21/2011, 05:57 PM
Well, I'd consider 2000gph as a good starting point. Powerheads that move a lot of water with broad flow is what you're looking for, but most powerheads these days provide that. It's hard to say x amount of flow coming from x number of PHs pointed in this or that direction, because there's so much that comes into play.

If it were me, I'd look to pick up a used mp40, and supplement it with a koralia or tunze nano stream or two. Now you've got your random controllable flow, and good flow throughout the tank. Then down the road you can replace the other PHs with a second mp40 when you have the money.

karsseboom
04/21/2011, 07:17 PM
Well, I'd consider 2000gph as a good starting point. Powerheads that move a lot of water with broad flow is what you're looking for, but most powerheads these days provide that. It's hard to say x amount of flow coming from x number of PHs pointed in this or that direction, because there's so much that comes into play.

If it were me, I'd look to pick up a used mp40, and supplement it with a koralia or tunze nano stream or two. Now you've got your random controllable flow, and good flow throughout the tank. Then down the road you can replace the other PHs with a second mp40 when you have the money.

Hes right man mp40 are so great at what they do and hooking up pumps to a controller can burn them out fast. As to give you a ball park of what kind of flow you need, i would want atleast 50x turn over rate not counting the return.

nikonosis
04/21/2011, 09:24 PM
Karsseboom, I really have to consider budget though, while I'm willing to invest enough to keep a successful tank, I do have to keep the college budget in mind lol. In all honesty I don't think I could do more than two MP10s, and that would only be if I got a good deal on them. I plan on using a controller for flow, so I just need reliable powerheads.

As far as lighting goes would you recommend two 400ws or just one, and what do you mean with 20k bulbs?




Howso? Electrical bill-wise? Honestly that's the only area where I can slack a little, my parents pay my housing lol. Or are there other advantages that make them worthwhile?



I plan on just getting whatever happens to be in the For Sale forum at the time for the right price lol, but thanks for the recommendation. As for your tank, could you tell me a little more about the lighting and powerhead set-up? Thanks!

More PAR than halides, fully customizable color, and virtually zero heat. What you spend on the LED's over Halides, you will be spending in the price of a chiller if you go with halides.

nikonosis
04/21/2011, 09:26 PM
You can get tunze for cheap used off ebay? Most people use leds to save electric bill, some say they produce a lot of heat but mine never change my water temp and 80% of people who use mh dont have problems with heat. They just buy them and say things to justify there purchase, but all in all mh are the most proven way to light an sps tank i dont care what anyone says. If you use a controller you might be okay for a bit but sps really need good random flow.

Ive used many halides with great success and after purchasing an LED unit, I for sure won't be going back, ever.

karsseboom
04/21/2011, 09:50 PM
How many people who have MH have a chiller too? maybe 20% that run 400w. I dont run a chiller, in fact my tank cant get warm enough as it is.

But i do agree LEDS look cool im just waiting for them to become a little more refined. The OP parents pay for his electric bill so no need to worry about the bill...lol

125mph
04/22/2011, 06:50 AM
I would get everything I currently have. Check my sig.

nikonosis
04/22/2011, 01:43 PM
How many people who have MH have a chiller too? maybe 20% that run 400w. I dont run a chiller, in fact my tank cant get warm enough as it is.

But i do agree LEDS look cool im just waiting for them to become a little more refined. The OP parents pay for his electric bill so no need to worry about the bill...lol

Do you run any fans at all?

karsseboom
04/22/2011, 08:41 PM
Do you run any fans at all?

Thers one fan in the fixture. Its about 7 inches from the water.

125mph
04/22/2011, 10:09 PM
My only suggestion is to not go cheap, cuz you'll end up replacing it and spending more money in the long run...did this the hard way.

Exactly!

I've done this a few times .. brought a cheap skimmer.. had to upgrade!!!.. brought a cheap all in one tank, hand to upgrade... usually I end up upgrading within a month or two.. big waste of money.

wolff809
04/22/2011, 11:03 PM
I have a 75 fresh that I plan on converting to a salt soon the way I was going to do it was
29 gallon sump no skimmer
Turf alge scrubber(way cheaper to run) off the overflow
2 250w mh
Sicce 3.0 return
Tunze nano streams(dont know which ones yet or how many) would really like a wave box though
I know ppl frown upon it but I use tap water so I won't run any reactors the tap water in San Antonio is pretty good :) hope that helps

TMF89
05/04/2011, 02:25 PM
Heyyyy guys long time no see. I guess I took the "Hurry Up And Wait" approach, since I'm not even done with school yet, let alone anywhere near done when I started this thread. Well I'll be home for the summer some time next week, and I'll actually start building the tank! One key point in planning this tank is that I WILL have to transport it about four hours to my college house in August. I've transported fish up there before (ran an African cichlid tank and had to order all my fish from the cities, the school town is only about 15,000 people and only a couple small LFSs), and live rock for my first tank, so I'm not super worried about it, I have plans for power inverters to provide juice for heaters and PHs for the rock, and plan on just bagging up the fish/corals as if I were shipping them. Sound like a good idea?

My only concern is that the corals won't do well with the stress, because I'll most likely only have them in the tank for anywhere from two weeks to a month and a half (depends on when I finish the tank, and my monetary situation). Should they pretty much be fine, or should I just wait get them after I re-set up my tank up at school? I guess my opinion is that they'd probably like sitting in a tank for weeks, then a short four hour drive, then back in their tank, as opposed to getting shipped across country over the course of 24 hours? Are there any specific corals that are much more prone to shipping/stress than others? Again I plan on this being an SPS tank, and will probably try and buy the largest pieces possible (I know I know, patience, but hey I've been patient for two years planning this!).

Besides that, I think I'm going to hold off on any more equipment questions until I start getting paychecks in a couple weeks to start buying it! I guess I can finally start a rough-draft stocking list!


I was thinking

Blue Eyed Kole Tang
2-3 pairs of flasher/fairy wrasse
1 Sandsifting Blenny/Goby
Peppermint Candy Hogfish
Dwarf Lionfish (if I add him when he's small, like 2-3", will I be alright? I know they max out anywhere from 5-7", and the smallest fish in the tank would be my 3-4" wrasses, is that still small enough to become lunch?)
1-2 larger Wrasse (max 5-7", like a Christmas wrasse (Depending on if I go to LA or Bluezoo, they vary from reef-safe to fish-only? Opinions?)
1 dwarf angel or butterflyfish (yes I know the risks involved, that's why I'm asking on here before I buy =P)


Now I know that's a heavy bioload, but again it's a rough draft, and I'm expecting plenty of rehashing before I make my purchases. Mainly, are any of those fish going to cause issues in an SPS tank, and/or with each other? Again I know the butterflys and angels are pretty much a crap shoot, but I also know some species are generally more reef-safe than others, and I know the dwarf lion might be an issue (honestly I just really want a lionfish in the tank, just how some people want clownfish in their saltwater tanks), but I'm hoping if I get him around the same size as the other fish, by the time he's full-grown, they will be too? Thanks for the help guys, and thanks for reading!