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View Full Version : Does this stand need one more support pillar?


Mavexe
04/21/2011, 06:47 PM
Greetings folks. I'm building a stand for a 92 Gallon corner tank. I've attached a picture of what I'm working with. My design is a bit funky since this stand will be accommodating a 92 gallon corner, and a 4' x 2' footprint tank, as well a sump and a QT. Wood used in picture is 4x4 support posts, 2x6's for the banding around, except the joist going across the center of the cavity, that's a 2x4 with L brackets on three sides. I'm adding a sheet of 1/2 plywood cut to the footprint of the tank and nailing it on top of the stand. It should roughly go where the black outline is. So my question is, since I'm trying to retain an extra shelf/cabinet area. Can I get away with the supports as they are? The [???] portion is where I would add the additional support.

rbredding
04/21/2011, 06:53 PM
most 92 corner tanks are made entirely of plywood, so I'd say that your stand is overbuilt as it is..

ScottCRRT
04/21/2011, 08:22 PM
That thing looks like you could drive a tank over it. LOL Looks Awesome!

RokleM
04/22/2011, 07:53 AM
Odd stand build, but stands for corners do indeed require something different.

My first concern would be the use of 4x4's at all (they CAN twist/bow over time). Secondly, the front left will have little to no support beyond the 1/2" plywood. Perhaps an angled piece between the front left/middle 4x4's. Thirdly, I see nothing on the right and probably on the back, but it's missing vertical support underneath the frame 2x6. In short, this puts all the downward pressure on the screws or nails, making them the single weak point.

Just a few thoughts. Not meaning to discourage, but don't wan to see you with a mess or broken tank either. As mentioned, corners make for a much more complex build.

ReeferBill
04/22/2011, 08:05 AM
I would not add any more verticle pillars but I would add a 2x4 across the top of the doors and aroumd the top inside perimeter of the tank. Great Job!!!! Keep us posted and Happy Reefing!:beer:

Mavexe
04/22/2011, 09:34 AM
Thanks all for the comments! Yes It's odd, but I'm simply consolidating my tanks into one stand/area for convenience.

RokleM,
Thanks for the feedback, it's exactly what I was looking for. The Side and front Corners/Edges of the tank will rest on the three 4x4's as well as the 2x6+2x6 L Piece for the back corner. Each 4x4 is connected via a top band of 2x6 using heavy duty screws (think a step down from lag bolts) and on a bottom band of 2x4's elevated off the ground 1.5 inches. I think (hope!) I'm fairly safe from the posts twisting and bowing.
For your second concern, are you talking about the gapped area as there's no 2x6 band completely closing in the arc? I do think I'm going to go ahead and add another band there with a 2x4 vertical stringer supporting it and just have that area be a cozy little access area.
Regarding your third concern, not having vertical support for the top vertical bands of 2x6's. I was thinking about how much pressure that would put on the screws during design, but wouldn't the 4x4's be taking the brunt of the down force as they are what will be contacting the floor? This can be easily remedied by some strategically placed 2x4's though, would you recommend putting them around the support beams, or would you recommend putting them in the middle of the run?

Also, no way I take this as discouraging, the way I see it, you're potentially saving me a new carpet bill! I attached a full stand shot too, remember, this corner area is just one small piece. The "window" area of the stand just to the right of it will be for a Hang On Refugium viewing window, with my sump behind it and plumbed to the tanks. The panels on top are for a cabinet door that opens up, from which I will open and clean out my protein skimmer. The 4'x2' area to the right of it will hold a 48x24x12 tank that I plan on turning into a tidal lagoon with a 1" rise/drop of water every 15 minutes, and underneath of it will be all cabinet space / Quarantine tank. Let's just say I've took every single "Gee, wouldn't it be nice if my stand did this..." thought over the past year, and combined it into one. Remember, it's still a work in progress!

Gold Stripe
04/22/2011, 09:37 AM
Um.....am I missing something or is the front of the tank unsupported? I am assuming that the black line is the front of the tank and it doesnt appear to have much support at all.

CJBROWN
04/22/2011, 09:48 AM
Uh, yeah, hate to be a detractor, but I would not hang the front of the tank off like that, unsupported. I would hate to see that droop and crack the bottom of your tank, or worse - explode it.

Were me I would build a radius support, either by cutting a radius in 2x12's with a vertical in the middle, or create a radius by standing a number of 2x4's on a sill plate in the shape of your front arch. 3/4" plywood top.

Still, a double top plate of 3/4 might do it. The issue is creating a rigid platform to fully support the bottom of the tank, without any deflection. You're talking about almost 900 pounds there.

Mavexe
04/22/2011, 10:16 AM
Gold Stripe, CJBROWN,
Thanks, that was kinda what I was getting at with putting another post in. I have the 3/4 inch board cut, and did a load test with 10 x 80# bags of concrete - it didn't even creak, but I'm still paranoid. Do you think I could do two 2x4's and leave room for a cabinet door?

I appreciate the murder board everyone, first load bearing stand ever.

CJBROWN
04/22/2011, 10:21 AM
Gold Stripe, CJBROWN,
Thanks, that was kinda what I was getting at with putting another post in. I have the 3/4 inch board cut, and did a load test with 10 x 80# bags of concrete - it didn't even creak, but I'm still paranoid. Do you think I could do two 2x4's and leave room for a cabinet door?

I appreciate the murder board everyone, first load bearing stand ever.

Yes, two verticals would leave an opening for a door. I would still add a top plate of 2-by material. You could pickup a 2x10 or 12 and get the radius out if it with a jigsaw/sabersaw, connected over the verticals. That would prevent any deflection of your top sheet.

KennyEM
04/22/2011, 05:52 PM
Being a cabinetman, I would double up 3/4" ply, would be stronger than 2x, and shapeable with no worry about twisting or bowing. A good carpenters glue, and some screws till the glue sets, your good to go. I double up on 3/4 for verticals as well, makes a good strong, solid unit.

peppie
04/22/2011, 11:50 PM
I would not put a tank on that corner stand. Your 4x4 uprights(POSTS) should set under a rim joist. The 4x4s should also set on top of some type of joist. I understand you have put alot of work and $ into this build, If I were you I would do alot more research and start over. It WILL save you from damage in the future
It is very difficult to explain how to build a stand that will hold alot of weight. There is a thread here somewhere that will give you pics on how the stand should be assm.
It is very important to disperse the weight of a filled tank.
PLEASE do some more research. No one here wants to read a post about a tank dumping water all over you livingroom. And your wife is screaming in your ear I TOLD YOU THIS WOULD HAPPEN!!!!

Port Richey Kid
04/23/2011, 09:50 AM
ok what you need to do is take you a 1x4 and cut slots in the back of it where you bowl front on the the is but dont do to many at a time so that way you can make it back into one board because when you bend around so it matchs the tank the slots will close back together as far as the 4x4s i would take them out because that is a over kill and after time they twisted and things like that nature anyway even with something heavy on them and after you get the 1x4 the the shape you need it for your tank take it and use it a guide for your front rather it be oak pine or plywood so that way you know where the slots need to go make the top and bottom draw your lines and cut them all at once then affix it to the corner sides and your good to go