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Dyzio545
05/03/2011, 08:47 PM
Hi. I hear that canister filters are big time nitrate factories. I have a 55 gallon mixed reef tank, and I am running a Fluval 405 with Chemi pure Elite, ceramic beads, and the sponges. (I am also running a temporary HOB sea clone 100 protein skimmer until my my reef octopus comes in the mail) What is it that is causing the nitrates in a canister filter? Is it the sponges? Or the filter socks? I'm just not sure.

BurntOutReefer
05/03/2011, 08:50 PM
it will be the sponges and the beads, and then over time the chemi pure. IMO,replace sponge and ceramic beads with LR rubble.

Dyzio545
05/03/2011, 08:52 PM
it will be the sponges and the beads, and then over time the chemi pure. IMO,replace sponge and ceramic beads with LR rubble.

I clean my sponges and the chemi pure bags weekly. This week I want to do a switch and throw out my chemi pure bags and ceramic beads and just run 50% GFO and 50% carbon, along with fresh sponges. Do you think that can work well?

BurntOutReefer
05/03/2011, 08:58 PM
yes...IMO, just get rid of the sponges...

Dyzio545
05/03/2011, 09:00 PM
yes...IMO, just get rid of the sponges...

Ok thanks. I have phosphates and some green hair algae and diatoms that I'm trying to get rid of :mad::mad::mad:

BurntOutReefer
05/03/2011, 09:23 PM
whats your feeding and photoperiod? thats as added source also.

BurntOutReefer
05/03/2011, 09:24 PM
sorry...missed something...you are running a canister with filter socks? when did you last clean your socks....

Dyzio545
05/03/2011, 09:28 PM
sorry...missed something...you are running a canister with filter socks? when did you last clean your socks....

Yesterday. Before I cleaned them out, I did water tests and nitrates, nitrates, and ammonia all came to be 0. I feed flakes once a day. I think the main problem would be that I am running 12 hour T5s. Maybe cutting down to 10 hours will help?

BurntOutReefer
05/03/2011, 09:31 PM
IMO...yeah...photoperiod is a little long.....10hrs is long enough.....

Dyzio545
05/03/2011, 09:32 PM
IMO...yeah...photoperiod is a little long.....10hrs is long enough.....

I'm just concerned for my montipora confusa. Even though I am running 4 bulbs of T5s on 10 hours, will that be sufficient enough?

BurntOutReefer
05/03/2011, 09:32 PM
BTW...i'm running a xp4 full of LR rubble and a skimmer only....0-0-0 across the board and only coraline growing.....

BurntOutReefer
05/03/2011, 09:37 PM
no worries....thats a pretty forgiving coral....what color is it ?

Randy Holmes-Farley
05/04/2011, 06:15 AM
FWIW, testing nutrient levels when you have problem algae is often a waste of time. They clearly are present in adequate quantities to support the algae. The nutrients may be low simply because there is enough algae to consume them. Nevertheless, it is still the best plan to intercept those nutrients before the algae gets them.

I'd be more proactive on phosphate rather than worrying about the cannister. Something like GFO is a good way to go to deal with green algae problems. :)

Dyzio545
05/04/2011, 07:46 PM
no worries....thats a pretty forgiving coral....what color is it ?

Its a montipora confusa. Brown color. I got it brown from the LFS about 3 weeks ago and it hasn't changed color since. I wanna get those phosphates down and see if maybe that helps the color. I got other LPS corals that are growing huge and stuff, but it's just that confusa that concerns me.

RocketSurgeon
05/05/2011, 02:29 PM
FWIW, testing nutrient levels when you have problem algae is often a waste of time. They clearly are present in adequate quantities to support the algae. The nutrients may be low simply because there is enough algae to consume them. Nevertheless, it is still the best plan to intercept those nutrients before the algae gets them.

I'd be more proactive on phosphate rather than worrying about the cannister. Something like GFO is a good way to go to deal with green algae problems. :)

Let me add a couple things to think about.

From my reading...

1. flake food can be a source of added nutrients.

2. HOB filter can be a source of nitrates as well as the cannister filter. Any place that catches detrius and is not cleaned will become a problem.

3. Placing live rock rubble in the cannister is not an option. It will trap detrius just like any other media.

Dyzio545
05/05/2011, 02:36 PM
Let me add a couple things to think about.

From my reading...

1. flake food can be a source of added nutrients.

2. HOB filter can be a source of nitrates as well as the cannister filter. Any place that catches detrius and is not cleaned will become a problem.

3. Placing live rock rubble in the cannister is not an option. It will trap detrius just like any other media.

For the live rock rubble in the canister, the bacteria would thrive in the dark compartment. Maybe not putting in rubble the size of ceramic beads, but a few larger pieces or such, letting water still pass through. I took out the ceramic beads and carbon, and I'm just running half GFO and half Carbon. So I'm still debating on the Live Rock rubble.

RocketSurgeon
05/05/2011, 02:53 PM
In my readings, the best thing a cannister filter is good for is GFO and carbon.

mauger1
05/05/2011, 07:28 PM
2nd with canister filters being good for gfo and carbon! I personally do not like much mechanical filtration in my tank. Running lr in it is also a bonus and will help your bacteria colonies.

Randy Holmes-Farley
05/06/2011, 05:12 AM
flake food can be a source of added nutrients.

FWIW, all foods are big sources of nutrients. Usually by far the greatest source. There is no way around this. :)

potterjon
05/06/2011, 07:24 AM
To answer your original question, it is the fact that people do not wash their bioballs in their canister filters on a rotation (1/2 or 1/3 at a time) that makes them nitrate factories. They also don't contain any deep pores for anaerobic activity like rock does. They are supposed to produce nitrates, from my understanding, so the fact that some people consider them nitrate factories is sort of a misnomer in my opinion. If you take the bioballs out of the canister filter and add rubble rock, and remove all other media, I simply don't see the point in having one at all. You are just adding flow. Just add the rubble to your tank. Therefore, canister filters can be great for media use, but if I am using gfo, I would rather put it in a reactor so that it can be utilized to its fullest extent. That stuff gets expensive over time. Also, canister filters always have the potential to leak. Look into getting a reactor, it is money well spent.

Chris27
05/06/2011, 08:31 AM
I agree a reactor is a great buy, and a beneficial filtering tool, but those buggers can leak just as well as a canister filter :lol:

Dyzio545
05/06/2011, 10:11 AM
I agree a reactor is a great buy, and a beneficial filtering tool, but those buggers can leak just as well as a canister filter :lol:

I'm sort of new to reactors and never had firsthand experience with them. How do you set one up?

Chris27
05/06/2011, 11:57 AM
It's really quite easy, you just need to get a reactor, small water pump like a maxi, some tubing, and media to put inside (carbon/phosphate removal).

You just pump some water in, it flows through the media and out the top back into the tank or sump.

The phosban 150 or 550 are good ones, it's cheap, easy to use and will last a while....sure there are more expensive ones....but it'll get the job done well....here's a link:

http://www.twolittlefishies.com/tlf_prod_access.html?lang_id=1

tymon
05/06/2011, 12:26 PM
keep the canister clean thats the only way. i clean mine every 4 days. i have Crushed coral in one of my canister levels. i let the crushed coral seed and become live than put it in there it does really well. u still have to clean it tho there is no way out of that part. i would never recommend one but since you already have one you can work with it. just do not stock your tank high and just keep up with water changes.

Dyzio545
05/06/2011, 01:11 PM
It's really quite easy, you just need to get a reactor, small water pump like a maxi, some tubing, and media to put inside (carbon/phosphate removal).

You just pump some water in, it flows through the media and out the top back into the tank or sump.

The phosban 150 or 550 are good ones, it's cheap, easy to use and will last a while....sure there are more expensive ones....but it'll get the job done well....here's a link:

http://www.twolittlefishies.com/tlf_prod_access.html?lang_id=1

Oh so its easier than it seems to me I guess...where would I put the reactor in my sump? Right next to my skimmer?

potterjon
05/06/2011, 08:24 PM
You can put them in the sump or outside with the pump inside, just depends on your setup.

Dyzio545
05/07/2011, 09:32 AM
Which brand makes the best reactors?