Seem to be losing SPS color, Bleaching? pics inc.

[mightymizz]

Ok so tank params.

65g total water volume, 40g breeder main display with ~25g in 40 sump

Flow- MP 10, Koralia 3,and 2,

Skimmer I-Tech 100, Skim wet

Calc. 500ppm- Not sure why this is so high, I have never dosed Calc.and it doesn't seem to be dropping as it is getting used up

Alk- 7 dkh- I have been fine with this tad bit lower alk due to dosing VSV and most people say lower alk is better when dosing.
Phosphate- 0 per Hanna checker
Nitrate- ~5ppm
SG 1.025
Temp. ~78-79

Dosing, as mentioned earlier I dose VSV and MB7. Very small amounts. VSV is .1ml daily, and MB7 is half a capful which is around 2/3 ml.

Feeding, I feed a good amount of Rod's Food Original daily, and anywhere between 2-4 drops of Oysterfeast daily. 3 disbar anthias, 1 maxi-mini

Lighting- 6x39 watt T5, 4 ATI blue +, 1 ATI aquablue special, 1 KZ fiji purp.
all 6 bulbs come on at 9am and off at 5pm.

Topoff is done by gravity fed on float switch with RODI, and Water Changes of about 4g are done every two weeks.

Not running GFO, or Carbon

Are they bleaching? If so, any thoughts? Not feeding enough? Other SPS like birdsnests are doing fine.

Here are some pics, FTS at end

Monti cap before it got whiter imo.
http://i692.photobucket.com/albums/vv283/mightymizz/40g%20Breeder%20Build/SAM_0606.jpg

Bleaching?
http://i692.photobucket.com/albums/vv283/mightymizz/40g%20Breeder%20Build/SAM_0671.jpg
http://i692.photobucket.com/albums/vv283/mightymizz/40g%20Breeder%20Build/SAM_0668.jpg

Also, This little guy was very purple and now it has been getting paler from the top down.
http://i692.photobucket.com/albums/vv283/mightymizz/40g%20Breeder%20Build/SAM_0677.jpg
http://i692.photobucket.com/albums/vv283/mightymizz/40g%20Breeder%20Build/SAM_0676.jpg

FTS
http://i692.photobucket.com/albums/vv283/mightymizz/40g%20Breeder%20Build/SAM_0669.jpg

[Piper27]

Make sure your test kit is reading right, someone near me thought his was 7 when it was really 6 when he got a hanna checker. I like to keep mine at 9 that way a swing either way is not as bad.

[mightymizz]

Any other thoughts? Seems like by my water parameters, lighting strength, things should be doing ok?

[mightymizz]

In picture with the hermit, I am talking about the coral, not the hermit. LOL

[mightymizz]

bump. really hoping for some insight here, or am I just imagining things? I have kept tanks before, but never SPS so I am not familiar with them bleaching like this.

I am more aware of the signs of rtn, stn, and getting stung but this doesn't appear to be that or the effects of AEFW or redbugs.

[clowndude]

How old is your tank? It almost looks like your tank was just setup judging by lack of coraline on the overflow and powerheads. Most likely your tank hasn't stablized enough yet. Is VSV some sort of vodka or carbon source? If so one thing u gotta do is supplement if you are running a ulns system. Something I've had to find out the hard way myself. Generally what I've seen is the biopellet/Carbon dosing systems have issues when people arent supplementing enough or just dont have the fish load to put enough waste back in the water. I think the zeovit system are successful because they basically layout all the steps and products that you need for dosing and supplementing.

Just my two cents worth.

[mightymizz]

Thanks CLown, Yes VSV is a Vodka, Sugar, Vinegar carbon source.

What might I add, amino acids? Not really sure.

Thanks

[clowndude]

Thanks CLown, Yes VSV is a Vodka, Sugar, Vinegar carbon source.

What might I add, amino acids? Not really sure.

Thanks

Honestly, I'd probably stop vodka dosing and do water changes weekly with a quality salt. If you want to keep your vodka dosing there are a few things you will want to dose. I think the biggest thing that will help you is more fish poop meaning add more fish and feed a little bit more.

You will find if you ask around in threads with people running a vodka or biopellets are dosing other things and or have a ton of fish which they are feeding a lot.

Here is a good article that was written up by someone on RC that tells you what supplements help what colors:

This guide endeavors to assist you with the ever popular SPS coral. This was written by member Shadowramy and it explains specific ideas and strategies in which you can do to affect the color of your corals. This assumes you have a more then basic understanding of water parameters in your tank. Click the read link to start reading about coloring in SPS corals.

In the past I have been asked a lot about coral colorization as well as wanted to satisfy my own curiosity about specific methods to achieving certain colors. Usually I am asked, “How do you get good colors?â€_ Which I then ask, “What specific color are you looking to enhance?â€_ Over the past several months I have really worked on “tweakingâ€_ colors and what is needed to get certain colors. I have done my own testing as well as seen a lot of others tanks and what they have done to achieve certain colors. I think I finally have a basic map for those who are interested.
Please note: I am assuming that you meet the minimum suggested standards to keeping SPS; strong lighting, calcium at the appropriate levels, strong skimming and live rock.

Yellows
Highly dependent on Nitrate and PO4 levels. Of course all SPS colors are highly dependent on lack of N and P so I wanted to start with probably the easiest color to get, yellow. Yellows are sort of you baseline; yellows will tell you a lot about what is going on in your tank, what is needed and what is overdosed. Nitrate and/or PO4 reduction is most important, either through technical means such as nitrate/phosphate reducers or biologically through DSB, Carbon dosing and/or water changes and fuges. Basically, if you want to do SPS, I would suggest starting with an acropora that is yellow. If you can get it to say yellow for several months, you should be ready for something else.


Greens
Greens would be the next easiest color to tweak. Most green coloration can be achieved through the addition of an Iron Concentrate (Kents is what I use, however Iron is Iron). You must be very careful with Iron because it is also an Algae accelerator; this is why it is so important for you to get your yellows colors first (your N and P will be lowered).
Additionally, I use my yellows as indicators for my greens and blues. You’ll notice a deficiancy if your greens are brown color or they are paling in color. I start off by dosing Iron at about 1 drop per 50 usg twice a week and take note of what happens, color changes, Algae growth, until my yellow acroporas display a green shimmer (it wont be a solid green but a shimmer of a green/yellow).
Please note, a sign of overdosing is a darkening of tissue, when this happens you have added too much iron or too much iron is being added. Another sign of overdosing is Algae growth, stop immediately and possibly do a water change if necessary. Like everything else reef, go slowly.

Blues and some purples
This is mainly for blues but I have found is can also have an effect on purples. The supplement for this is Potassium Iodide Concentrate or Lugol’s solution, ESV Potassium Iodide Concentrate will also work; don’t just get something that says Potassium because that is a little different. Dosing should be done when blue colors become less intense. Again, using yellow corals as indicators, stop dosing when yellow corals display a green shimmer.


Reds/Pinks and some Purples
Primarily for coloring reds and pinks in Montiporas, Pocilloporas, Birdsnest, other Stys and Seriatoporas. The supplement is Potassium (not potassium iodide). If you are using a high potassium salt mix such as Oceanic, Tropical Marine Pro and you are doing regular water changes, you are more than likely not going to need to supplement this much.
For dosing you can use your monitporas, especially caps as indicators. Supplementing is required when Montiporas display slower growth and appear washed out to grey appearance. Indicators on Stys and Pocs are when they look like they have been exposed to air. Polyps are completely withdrawn and colors are light. Other indicators of potassium deficiency is when the pinks turn into a light brown and when acroporas loose their color and get lighter and pale. A major potassium deficiency is seen when tissue is lost, mostly starting from the base opposed to spotting (patchy look). And overdose can lead to tip burning so don’t mistake tip burn for new growth. Tips burns will be white with no polyps.


Purples
Probably one of the hardest coloration of all acroporas from my experience since it is a combination of several variables.
First and foremost is water clarity, which means Carbon and/or filter socks. I have also had good result from biological filters such as using cryptic zones, which produce seasquirts, sponges and other filter feeding animals. Zeo Sponge Power, which can be used in any system, feeds sponges. Sponges are great because they can filter a mass amount of water for better water clarity.
From what I have noted, increased water clarify will first effect SPS tips but not the complete base. I have seen nana and valida with really nice purple tips but brown/tan/white bases. I have seen the same nana and valida in another’s tanks, which met all other parameters with a full purple from base to tip.
Second being lighting. From my observations of my own tank and others, purples seem to love 420-440nm range light spectrum, those found in actinics and 20K halides. Some of the best purples I have seen are in tanks that have 440nm blue actinics (ATI Blue+, Giessman Actinic) or 20K Halides (Radium, XM 20K).
Third, supplements such as Iodide and Potassium (see blues and Reds/Pinks). Again, make sure your greens are green and yellows are yellow. Your blue should be bright with depth. Iodide will also help if you have tip burn.
These are just my observations through testing and I am sure in the future other factors will be seen and added. Please feel free to comment with your own observations, data is very important to moving forward.

Hope this helps steer you in the right direction.

Good luck and happy reefing.

[mightymizz]

So far I have really liked the Vodka dosing as I have 0 phosphate (Hanna) and 5ppm Nitrate.

As mentioned previously, I feed quite heavily Rods Food Original at least once per day, and also Oysterfeast at ~2-3 drops per day. I wonder why this combo wouldn't be enough as far as feeding for the SPS.

I guess I am need specific products that I might be looking to add. I hear stuff about CoralSnow? Or, am I looking for amino acids? Or?

Any others willing to chime in also?

[clowndude]

I've heard really good things about coral snow. It helps keep the water crystal clear and has been known to get rid of cyano. If I were you I'd read a lot about ulns systems particually zeovit system. Some of the best tanks I've seen were zeovit and u will notice that are all dosing a ton of stuff.

[mightymizz]

I guess I'll have to look into the Zeo forums. They just have so many different products that I am not familiar with.

So based on my water params, lighting, etc. we are assuming that I am most likely starving my corals at this point?

My feeding Oysterfeast and Rod's Food is not enough food, or am I stripping other elements/nutrients/whatnot, out of the water?

[clowndude]

Biggest thing to remember is there is more than just feeding your corals. Everything corals need is not always found in foods. If your corals are growing they are using elements in the water, if your salt isn't keeping up with what is being taken out of the water you see the end result of color lose, corals
Bleaching or dying. Remember the colors tell you there is something wrong by their colors or reactions and it is up to u to figure out the problem. You know whatever you are doing isn't making the corals happy so u gotta try things to figure out what's going on. In my case I was feeding my corals, but my biopellets were stripping the water. I've been off biopellets about 3 or so weeks now and already seeing a big difference in my corals.

[mightymizz]

Good info Clown.

I will try not dosing VSV or the MB7 and see if there is a turn around.

I understand the theory of stripping the water and then manually dosing amino acids, more food, etc. I just don't know where to start with the different products.

[clowndude]

I would quit vodka dosing for a month and just see what happens with your corals. Most likely around the 3 week mark you will start to notice your sps coloring up. What kind of salt are u using?

[mightymizz]

Kent salt.

Am i feeding enough Oysterfeast? I have heard it's pretty potent stuff. Usually around 2-3 drops a day.

[mightymizz]

Anyone else want to chime in? Is there any pretty common thing to add to a tank running ULNS through dosing a carbon source?

[mike810]

i pretty much had the same problem when dosing vodka. I've switched over to pellets and zeo system. couldn't be more happy

[mightymizz]

Bascially the pellets do the same thing as vodka? then the system has you add stuff that has been stripped out of the water?

If that is so, what might I need to add if I am not able to buy the entire Zeo setup??