Icecap and GFCI Trip<<<<

[InsaneClownFish]

I just picked up an Elos E-Power pendant second hand from a fellow reefer that came with the new style Ice Cap Ballast.

I have two different make GFCI. I have an identical Ice Cap ballast that tips one but will run smoothly on the other.

This new one trips both. It runs fine plugged into the wall- no buzzing.

It does get hot. I can hold my hand on it for 4-5 seconds before I need to remove it. If I remember correctly, this is a good amount warmer than the other, and slightly older, but identical IceCap I have.

Concerns?

[InsaneClownFish]

^^^

[alton]

Heat is wasted energy, that is why you do not use mag ballast. It is called wasted money. If one of your ballast is getting hot compared to the other and tripping you GFCI then call Coral Vue and see about sending it back.

[Sugar Magnolia]

Yep, call the manufacturer. I had to return mine when it failed. Excellent customer service.

Phone: (800) 7-ICECAP or (609) 588-5338
Fax: (609) 588-5460


Warranty repairs will be performed free of charge. Non-warranty repairs can be performed. If repairable, the fee is $75 for parts and labor plus UPS shipping charges. If the unit cannot be repaired, a new circuit board can be installed for $95 plus UPS shipping. All repairs will be shipped back via UPS Ground at the customer's cost. Also, UPS Overnight and 2nd Day Service is available at additional expense; for rates, call (800) 742-3227 ext. 25.

When mailing ballasts back to IceCap for repair, please send the BALLAST ONLY as well as a short note stating the nature of the problem to:
IceCap, Inc.
9-B South Gold Drive
Hamilton, NJ 08691
Attn: Service Department

Please be sure to include your return address in the box.

[InsaneClownFish]

I read back through some of the old posts from the Icecap folks and they seemed to intimate that this was sorta normal ballast to ballast and had more to do with the mounting surface- ie if it sits on wood it will get exponentially hotter.

I just talked to a family friend who's an exceptional electrician- 30+ years experience at least. He wasn't concerned. He said there can be a significant difference in the amount of current leak from ballast to ballast- even with identical models. If there was a short of some type, the light would not fire. Subsequently, if there are real issues with the ballast the circuit should trip.

In particular, he said lighting is prone to these nuisance trips. He deals with ballasts all the time, and in his estimation, even the florescent ones get extremely hot on a consistent basis.

All this being said, I'd like to hear from more people who have actually had experience with these ballasts. Thanks much.


Yep, call the manufacturer. I had to return mine when it failed. Excellent customer service.

Phone: (800) 7-ICECAP or (609) 588-5338
Fax: (609) 588-5460


Sugar, how does this work? Ice Cap went out of business and the numbers I called yesterday(just to see if I could get someone after I heard rumors of a restructure) are no longer working numbers.

[Sugar Magnolia]

Oh darn. I wasn't aware of that, sorry. I had to have mine replaced at just over a year out of warranty. They sent me a refurbished ballast that's still going strong 4 years in.

[InsaneClownFish]

Sugar, no worries. What was the determining factor that yours was bad?

[Sugar Magnolia]

It started buzzing loudly and got really hot, then poof! It wouldn't fire the bulb. I could turn it on, it would buzz and get hot but that was it.

[InsaneClownFish]

I'm doing a side by side comparison of both ballasts running on the same surface.

This is by no means scientific.

9:10 am ballasts on
9:20 am both ballasts cool to the touch- hint more of a warmth on ballast A but very subtle
9:50 both ballasts slightly warm to the touch- hint more from ballast A
A- 81 ish (alternate reading 97.3)
B- 79.5 ish (alternate reading 95.5)

I will continue to update for giggles to see where this goes.

[InsaneClownFish]

10:10 am 1 hour on
Ballast A- 80.5 (alternate reading 102.7)
Ballast B- 79.5 (alternate reading 99.3)

Both ballasts warm to the touch with Ballast A being noticeably warmer. I will do another reading at two hours on.

[InsaneClownFish]

11:15 am 2 hours on
Ballast A- 93 (alternate reading just says "hi")
Ballast B- 92 (alternate reading 108.3)

Ballast A is hot to the touch, but I can hold my hand on it.
Ballast B is more warm/hot to the touch- easier to hold my hand on.

[Fishfish0001]

Where are they located? In the cabinet or outside of it?

You might be able to fix some heat issues by mounting a fan to blow air across them when they are on.

[InsaneClownFish]

Where are they located? In the cabinet or outside of it?

You might be able to fix some heat issues by mounting a fan to blow air across them when they are on.


I'm in CT. The ballasts are in an open area directly on the plywood bottom of my 8ft stand. I have removable panels so it is completely open atm. I think the way to go is to mount them onto a metal plate, as Icecap used to suggest, before they touch the wood. A fan would be another option.


12:15 pm
Ballast A- Temp reading inaccurate
Ballast B Temp reading inaccurate

Ballast A I can hold onto the heat sink for 6-7 seconds before I need to remove my hand. Sides plates are warm, not hot- where the wiring exits.
Ballast B Is hot but no issue with holding hand on it. Almost feels to temp of Ballast A last round.

[InsaneClownFish]

1:35 pm 4 hours in

Ballast A- Can hold 4-5 seconds.
Ballast B- Can hold without removing hand.

Both are hot- not warm.

[InsaneClownFish]

So here's the kicker. After running 16 hours Ballast A was actually not as hot as it was at the 4 hour mark. Got me on this. I could hold my hand on it without needing to remove it.

[InsaneClownFish]

I've mounted the ballast up on two brass legs. I'm now using an OZ fan blown across all ballasts. To my utter surprise it doesn't even get warm- cool to the touch. Incredible difference..