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jamesbaur13
07/28/2011, 06:51 PM
I'm up to trip #4 to the hardware store for all my plumbing components. I think I finally have all the stuff I need to start my plumbing.

My return pump is an eheim 1262 that I'm using to feed everything.

My question is the placement of the valves. I'm using 4 in my set up.

Basically, from the pump my return comes to a 4 way intersection. On the 3 output sides there is a ball valve. One is going to the display, one to the fuge, one to the GFO. I'm T'ing off the GFO supply and going to a second ball valve to restrict the flow going to the carbon.

Will this work?

I'm anxious for feedback as I will officially start my plumbing tomorrow, though I cant go too far because I do not have an assembled sump yet.

Thanks again everyone.

jamesbaur13
07/28/2011, 07:49 PM
UGGHH!

Made a mistake, looks like I'll be doing a little reconfiguring... just realized I bought the wrong valves.

GATE VALVES MORON!! :headwallblue:

Looks like I'll be making trip #5 tomorrow

jeff@zina.com
07/29/2011, 06:16 AM
Valves are valves and ball valves work fine. It would have been better to build a plenum, a line of valves, but as long as you can tune the valves to meet you needs it's fine. I might add one more valve that bleeds back to the return area of the sump in case the pump puts out more volume than you want.

Jeff

billdogg
07/29/2011, 06:20 AM
What I do is go to the local big box hardware store with a general plan in mind. Then I buy AT LEAST 3x as many parts as I think I MIGHT need. That usually cuts the return trips to just 2 or 3.

It seems like you are asking a lot from a 1262. Don't be suprised if you don't get as much flow as you though you would, but you are certainly on the right track.

jamesbaur13
07/29/2011, 05:15 PM
Ok, got a photo of the update I made to the plumbing.

I laid out the fittings on the ground so it's easier to visualize...

http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x468/jamesbaur13/IMG_20110729_175834.jpg


The valve and elbow on the far right is for the fuge.

The 2 valves on the left is carbon and gfo.

The one above the 4 way is my tank returns.

jamesbaur13
07/29/2011, 09:10 PM
I changed it... again.

Problem with the previous pic is it didn't account for the layout of my sump.

I have a tall protein skimmer that it would be interfering with, so I switched it a bit.

Only thing that I'm not liking about it is that if I have a valve that fails I'll have to replace 3. If I had gate valves with "built in" unions (not sure of the correct term here) I think it'd make it too long.

http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x468/jamesbaur13/IMG_20110729_215218.jpg

jamesbaur13
07/29/2011, 09:24 PM
If I had gate valves with "built in" unions (not sure of the correct term here) I think it'd make it too long.

NM, I'm not thinking straight and to top it off I'm quoting myself. This project has me 1/2 nuts.

Anyways, anyone know of a nationwide chain store that carries gate valves with threaded unions attached?

Being that I am asking this question are they worth the effort to get... and get again if one fails?

gonpostal
07/29/2011, 09:30 PM
It seems like you are asking a lot from a 1262. Don't be suprised if you don't get as much flow as you though you would
I agree. I use a 1262 on my 120, and it seems to be just right. IMO if you divert flow to a fuge and a couple of reactors, you're probably going to wind up with very low flow to your returns.

jamesbaur13
07/29/2011, 09:36 PM
I have 2 vortech mp-40Wes for flow inside the tank.

Would you think my flow would be enough to keep up with a sro-2000int that is not plumbed and is housed in the same area as the drains?