Set-up Question

[dragon174]

My 20 gallon tank is set up and has been running great.

Tank: 20 gallon (24 long x 12 wide)
Light: Dual T5 HO
Filter: Marineland Emperor 280 filter
- running bio wheel, Pure Chem Elite and Seachem Purigen

Current the tank has three large pieces of live rock (which came from another reefer out of his established tank he was taking down). My substrate is Arga-live.

My main intent was just to have a FOWLER tank, but after having a reef tank years ago, I want to transition this tank over to a nano reef.

I currently do 5 gallon water changes every week using Instant Ocean.

Before I add any Corals, I plan to start doing my water changes with Reef Crystals. How long or how big of a water change would I need to do before being able to safely add corals?

I want to start out with some rics, mushrooms, zoo's and frog spawn or hammer (not all at the same time of course).

Thoughts????

[ange062]

The Dual T5HO sounds like the biggest problem to me. That's probably about 48w worth of light on a 20? I'd start with the mushrooms and zoa's first and see how they do, LPS stuff can come later.

I wouldn't worry about the salt switch for the softies, there are enough trace elements in the Instant Ocean.

[Patriot54]

My concerns are with the biowheel or naitrate factories for better words. I would take the biowheel out if I were you.

I've done plenty of reading, and from what I've gathered, you can do LPS with just a 2 bulb T5 HO.

As for the salt I wouldn't worry about it either, just test your water and supplement as necessary until you've completely switched over to reef crystals.

[ReefBuff02]

I have run a couple similar set ups successfully. Here's what I suggest for switching to a reef.
1. Take the biowheel part off - unnecessary in a reef tank with live rock. But keep the actual hang on back part running for water movement and so you can put stuff in it (like your heater and a foam block for mechanical filtration). This gives you more room in your tank. Also, you don't need chemical filtration bags like carbon or whatever they send with the filter either if you're doing regular water changes. I managed to squeeze a skimmer into mine as well. If you have room left in the hang on back, add some live rock rubble and maybe even a small light and some chaeto macro algae to turn it into a mini refugium, which makes great live food for fish and corals.
2. Your lights are on the low end of output necessary for corals. Supplementary actinic lights will help a lot (look into small LED actinic strips that you can combine with your fluorescents). In the mean time start with corals other people suggested earlier and keep them middle to high in the tank.
Good Luck!

[dragon174]

Thanks for the advise.

I tried to take the bio-wheel out of the filter this weekend and my tank filled with micro bubbles and I got a lot of splash on my light. Is it possible to take out the spray bar?

I do weekly water changes, but what should I do in order to keep the water nice and polished / crystal clear if I take all of the chemical media out of the filter?

[Patriot54]

Thanks for the advise.

I tried to take the bio-wheel out of the filter this weekend and my tank filled with micro bubbles and I got a lot of splash on my light. Is it possible to take out the spray bar?

I do weekly water changes, but what should I do in order to keep the water nice and polished / crystal clear if I take all of the chemical media out of the filter?

I don't believe so, maybe you can raise your water level or add a sponge or something similar to keep the splashing down.

I think he/she was referring to the chemical media that comes with the HOB filter. I use gfo and carbon, sometimes chemi pure as well. Chemi pure will polish your water and keep it clear

[ReefBuff02]

You can take the spray bar out on mine. It slides out (for maintenence purposes). Water squirts out the hole where the spray bar attaches so I used a small piece of flexible plastic tubing to direct the water down into the HOB box (they sell this stuff by the foot at most hardware stores- super cheap- try a 1/2 inch diameter). I used the black/opaque variety to prevent algae growth in the tube, but clear will work fine as well. Depending on your set up you could even put it directly into the tank as a make shift powerhead.

I can't vouch for any of the chemical absorbent packs. I've almost exclusively used skimmers and filter floss/foam on my reefs. If the chem absorbers work for you -great- I just found replacing them was rather costly over time because they seem to clog up quickly. But I do tend to over feed at times...

Do you have any pics of your tank?

[dragon174]

Thanks ReefBuff02!

I am going to try the plastic tubing option.

I have never really used the chemical absorbent packs either as this is the smallest salt / reef tank I have ever set up. I agree that in the long run, the mechanical skimmer is the way to go and I am keeping my eyes open for a good used one. I am trying not to spend a lot of money on this tank as I plan on setting up a 100 gallon (60 x 18 x 20) in the future (I have the tank... just need the rest of the equipment).

I will post some updated pictures of the tank this weekend.

If there are any other things that have worked for you (or others) on small tanks without sumps, please let me know.

Thanks!