Tank getting close....

[daplatapus]

OK, so I'm in the final process of getting my tank and sump plumbed in, hopefully leak testing everything by the end of the week. I've got a few questions on what I should have on hand to avoid having any issues later as the closest LFS is at least an hour away and doesn't always have the best selection so I may need to order things on line.
What medications should I be having on hand all the time?
Should I be purchasing a GFO and/or carbon reactor?
Other than testing for Ammonia, Nitrites, nitrates, and SG, what else should I be getting prepared to test for? I'll be having soft and possibly LPS corals, shrimp, snails, and the fish list is still being researched

[hello_there]

You don't have any coral yet do you? I wouldn't think you would need to get coral care products yet if you are still in the cycling process. You should pretty much get things as needed, as it is fairly difficult to predict problems that may arise in the future. I guess things that are more important to have on hand are:

Water Chemistry Titration/Test Kits (actually very important to have in your case. I highly suggest getting some– * means optional) for NO3, PO4, Si*, NH4, NO2, Mg+2, Ca+2, Alk (Carbonate Hardness), Sr+2*, Fe*, Cu* [Fe (Iron) and Si (Silicon) feeds diatoms and macroalgae; Silicon tends to go down on it's own. If you are using RO water, it will probably never reenter the system unless you deliberately introduce it through byproducts of supplementation or substrate. Fe is actually very beneficial when running a macroalgae sink for Nitrates, Phosphates, Silicates, etc, as it is actually a limiting factor in many reactions but if you aren't running a macroalgae sink you don't need it since dosing Fe would do more harm than good in that situation.] [You should only get a Cu tester if you are using tapwater and not RO/DI water] [You should get Strontium (Sr) if you are really anal or don't do water changes often. Salt mixes often are in excess of Strontium anyway. It really depends on the demand for it in your tank.] In your situation right now, you only need NO3, NO2, NH4, Alk, and poooosssilbly PO4 (if you use tap, of course).

As for the Carbon Reactor, I can't really say. I am more towards not getting one unless you have the money laying around and have nothing to spend it on. There's nothing you really need it for at this point. Just get it whenever you want. Speaking of reactors and money, if you're rich and have money laying around you can get a Calcium/Kalkwassier reactor, too, those are cool!!! (but unnecessary)

You don't need supplements yet. (ok maybe Alk Buff)

As for medications, you don't really need any. You don't even have specimens lol. Plus, you should really only buy as needed.

On another note, I would get a gun to shoot any people that trespass into your house to look at your awesome tank to-be.

Also don't rush :/.


EDIT: Concerning your edit, the answer to your question is in my post somewhere. I can't really find it because it's such a dense wall of text and I keep getting lost in it.

If you are getting LPS, you should be prepared to test for Strontium*, Magnesium, and Calcium. Magnesium should be around three times your Calcium levels at all times in order to avoid Calcium Carbonate precipitation. *Strontium is usually found at adequate levels in common salt mixes and testing for it is purely for if you plan on supplementing it. It can definitely help coral growth if kept at the right levels, however. If I recall, certain sea slugs need it, but that's a story for another day* Magnesium is vital in order to initiate Calcium precipitation reactions in LPS. I wouldn't worry if you are in excess of Magnesium. I would aim for 1250ppm Mag, 420 ppm Cal, and 8ppm Sr.

[thegrun]

I would not purchase medications unless necessary. It would be a good idea to have an iodine coral dip on hand. Corals should be dipped and ideally placed in a quarantine tank before introduction to your DT.
I would wait until the need presents itself before purchasing a Carbon or GFO reactor(s). If you plan on keeping a mix of soft and hard corals, the carbon may be necessary to combat the various chemicals your corals excrete to kill off competing corals, but I ran a 28 gallon mixed reef tank for a few years without carbon.
Again I would not go overboard with testing. Most of the elements are going to be replaced with regular water changes. In addition to the test kits you have, you should add Alkalinity and Ph. When you start adding LPS or SPS corals or clams, you will need to start monitoring Calcium and Magnesium. Most of the other trace elements are not worth worrying about if you are keeping up with your water changes unless there are visible problems in the tank.

[daplatapus]

Cool, thanks for the answers. My main concern is I get Ich or something that seems fairly common and can't get meds for a week if I need to order anything. If that's the case fish will probably be dead by then anyway. I've been reading lots on hypo salinity treatments and stuff so hopefully that'll help if that need arises. I'll be quarantining everything that ways I at least won't lose the whole system (unless of course I go and screw things up) Lousy part of being in Canada sometimes is things don't seem to be as readily available as stuff state side. So if I could have some common stuff on hand I thought that might be better.

[hello_there]

Yeah, living in LA is great. Turn a corner and, waddya know! An aquarium store!