Sump Construction

[Fishfriend1]

I have a 20 Gallon 30in long tank. Currently, it is housing my lone clownfish and some snails/hermits/LR while my main tank cycles though with it's LR after a big mistake of mine (don't ask, okay?). However, when the main tank is up again, I plan to turn the 20 long into a sump, all by my self. So I think it would qualify for the "DIY" section, as I couldn't see a section for "Sumps-n-stuff" or similar.

I plan to have a basic sump. 3 baffles to remove bubbles, a skimmer worked it, and a refigerum (spelling?) for plants, maybe some "pest" hitchhikers if I got one. And possibly my unidentified tan colored hermit if it goes after corals.

So, I have no idea what I'm doing :crazy1: so any help whatsoever would be awesome! I have done some research, but I still have questions.

What do I use to hold the baffles in, how should I cut the glass (or have it cut) for the tank (what size), and where should I locate them? How many should I have (3 right?)?

What kind of skimmer should I use? Where should it be located?

What kind of plumbing do you recomend?

What kind of pump do you recomend?

Also, the tank and sump are both currently on the floor, but I have plans to eventually get a stand for the DTank so if anyone has ideas on how to get a good pump but also make up for the current lack of hrigh distance from top of tank to sump, please tell!

Thanks!

~Siv

[mets17127]

How big is your main tank? That would go a long way toward determining the skimmer and return pump.
I would use plexiglass and silicone for adhesion of the baffles. Easy to cut yourself and a fairly strong hold...just not pretty.
Unless you want to keep the sump water really high, you'll want a submersible skimmer (or in-sump). Many skimmers like the crappy sea clone can convert from HOB to in sump.
I have a HOB overflow box with large u-tubes which do not lose syphon in a power outage. I can keep the air out if I drill a hole in the U and add an aqualifter. There are overflows available built for an aqualifter. People also seem to like in-tank DIY PVC overflows, but I am not familiar with them. I can say that silencing mine is tough, and the tank has to be quite a distance from the wall.
For return, I've read 10X turnover, but a small pump can do the trick if you put a powerhead in the tank for added flow.

[mets17127]

sorry, missed some in the earlier post...it will be hard to use an overflow box with the tanks on the floor, as you don't really have gravity to feed, unless you directly syphon the DT into the sump, or some orientation of the overflow box hanging on the back of the DT and in the sump (the sump right behind) with no hoses out the bottom, just the PVC fittings to pour right in. The return pump won't be an issue, except that the flow will reduce when you eventually raise the DT.
Now would probably be the time to get a stand, as the clearance will determine skimmer and such.
This is all based on my limited experience, but I hope its helpful

[PCFisher66]

If you decide to use glass for the baffles, Lowes/Home Depot will cut the glass for you. Aquarium silicone can be used to glue them in place.

[thornious]

As Mets said now is the time to get a stand that will limit your choices for skimmer and other stuff.

I just completed my 20g long sump for a 75g display

I went with only two chambers for skimmer and return pump. I did to minimize top offs, make cleaning it easier and changing out equipment. I do plan on add some egg crate to the return side for cheato, but that is just going to sit in there and can be removed at any time.

Glass baffle size 11.75 x 9 high. Distance between the baffles is 1 inch. I wish I would of went with 2 inches. The middle baffle is raised about an 1.5. Baffle placement in the tank will be determined on your equipment.

Plumbing will be based on your return pump size and the size of your overflow connector. My return pump MAG 5 uses .5 inch line and the HOB overflow is a 1 inch line.

[Fishfriend1]

Okay, I'll see if I can find a stand for a 30tall, do they have those as generic stands? I guess once I get ahold of a stand I'll be able to continue with the build proccess, but for now, what would the best skimmer be for a 30tall?

[tcp316]

If you decide to use glass for the baffles, Lowes/Home Depot will cut the glass for you. Aquarium silicone can be used to glue them in place.
Do they sell the glass as well and how thick is it?

[.OptimusPrime.]

Do they sell the glass as well and how thick is it?

Just a heads up from what I went thru looking for baffles. Call them and ask. The two home depots local to me do not sell glass or cut it. They also would not cut the acrylic if i bought it there. The ones in your area might be different. I just opt'd to have a local glass shop cut the baffles. Got 4 pcs for 25 total. Just have to shop around.

Edit: thickness should be about 1/4"

[dylan87]

you can get a 20 g stand from dr foster and smith for like 60 its one of the metal ones that actually holds two tanks of the same size so you could throw another 20 or 29g tank underneath for a sump

[tcp316]

Thanks:)

[tcp316]

What if you doubled 1/8 " panes to make 1/4" thick? Wouldn't that be strong enough?

[dylan87]

even if you siliconed the pieces together perfect and had 0 air between them it would be as good as 1/4 plus you end up buying the same amount of glass with twice as many cuts....ive used 1/8 panes before and they will work so long as they dont actually hold water pressure (sump flow redirect is fine) but the first time you bump a piece of rock or equipment on it and it breaks youll regret it. that happened to me twice i didnt have to learn a 3rd time lol i had 3 17.5 x10x1/4 pieces of acrylic cut for my current sump it was 42$ glass would have been cheaper and the shop i got it from tends to be a bit on the pricey side itll work out better for you to have 1/4.

[tcp316]

Thanks. I picked up 1/4 " yesterday.

Sent from my SGH-i917 using Board Express

[Toddrtrex]

All 3 of my tanks have 20 long sumps, I used acrylic baffles (( siliconed in place )) for all of them -- I find it easier to work with. I previous sumps also used acrylic baffles and they held up great after 7+ years -- sold them to local reefers.

I did the standard, inflow/skimmer, bubble trap, fuge, single baffle and lastly return pump area.

[tcp316]

Has anyone done theirs with the return pump in the middle chamber and fuge and skimmer on opposite ends? I was thinking I could make the fuge area higher and hold more rock and stuff if I did that? Also I have 2 drains, should I drain both to the skimmer chamber or split it to both ends of the tank?

[tcp316]

http://i931.photobucket.com/albums/ad158/muzik_lvr/plumb_it.jpg
I am looking at something like this but with the last chamber a bit higher and with the higher baffle up off the bottom and a bubble baffle to the middle chamber. No teeth on the baffles.
Would the T slow down the flow from the tank to the fuge or would I need to cut down the flow a bit at the ball valve? I have my glass cut and ready but am unsure if this is a good plan. My pump is an external gen-X and the sump is being plumbed down to the basement. Any feedback? I want to get this built tomorrow. Also, I will drill the chamber to the pump and use a bulkhead. Would you suggest a flexible tubing to the pump so I shift the pump a bit if necessary?

[Todd_Sails]

Or you could go much cheaper, easier, etc.

Check out my sump and overflow build pics here:
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2064193

[dylan87]

defitiely use braided nylon tubing, flex pvc will be too rigid in a short section for the connection to pump. im sure it will work if not just drain it and try again once you get it setup youll have yourself a homer moment (doh!!) when you realize the simpleness of it