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View Full Version : Really clever or really silly idea ...


MarlinHooker
09/17/2011, 11:15 AM
The sump I had built for my new 150g has 3 sections (from L to R): intake w/filter socks, protein skimmer, return section). The baffle on either side of the PS section is currently only 5" which means the water level won't rise above this, right?. My PS, a RO Ext 300 is supposed to work best in 8"-9" of water.

At first I was just going to glue a 5" piece of acrylic to each baffle & then do what most do which is add a little riser to the PS if I need it to sit in less water, but then I can up with this idea in the attached pic.

The idea would be to make the baffle you see depicted with 3 pieces of acrylic glued together & slip it over the top of the current 5" high baffle (shown in white). This would now give me 8" which is the min my PS is supposed to work in.

Then if I need to have the PS sit in more water, instead of having to muck around with the PS I simple add one or more of the 1/2" inserts I've made, thus raising the water level in that section.

So, will this work or am I missing something? thx

Malyon18
09/17/2011, 12:54 PM
I may be wrong or I may have missed something while reading but I think you will have problems keeping the water from seeping around the edges where the baffle comes into contact with the sides of the sump.

heckeng
09/17/2011, 02:30 PM
I think that is a good idea. at a shop I used to work at, we had filters that would slide in and out of slots in our sump like that. Good thinking on how to adjust the sump height. I don't think it will matter at all if you get some seepage around the gaps either, as long as there is enough flow that there is flow OVER the dividers, it shouldn't matter at all.

MarlinHooker
09/17/2011, 07:18 PM
that's kinda what I was thinking since I'd make it with a pretty snug fit the flow over top of the baffle should compensate for any seepage around the sides ...

Gorgok
09/17/2011, 08:02 PM
Another method would be to put a channel in front or behind the solid baffle, then use a single large (as tall as the solid one) sliding baffle in that channel. You could have a nylon screw and nut to tighten it in place once you set it. The slot for the screw, in the sliding baffle, will bleed some water through, but in the larger scale that doesn't really matter. This method will let you almost double the height of the baffle (minus the overlap required for the screw) and is infinitely adjustable in between.