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JohnM99
09/22/2011, 07:50 PM
- QUESTION - how deep is too deep?

Thinking over a new tank flat back hex around 120 g. I am trying to increase my tank size with some width and length constraints. My current tank is 24" with 6" DSB - I have no problem with this depth, and am wondering about a 30" deep tank, with only 2" of sand (and a large remote DSB, fuge frags etc total volume 300g). Would have SPS, clams, anemone, and adequate lighting.

Would like to hear the experiences of people with tanks 30" or more in depth.

I know opinions vary - Some are fine using tongs, others think 24" is too deep.

What do you think, and why?

and if you want to show off with a picture or two - please do!

BuckeyeTodd
09/22/2011, 08:02 PM
My tank is 27 inches deep, which is fine. My issue is the tank is 36 inches wide. The combination of the two means I can't reach the sandbed in the back 10 inches of the tank and I'm 6'3. I've found with tongs standing on a chair I can reach 5 of those ten inches, but anything in the back five inches is a PIA.

So in short I don't mind the depth as long as the tank isn't wider than 24-28 inches.

tkeracer619
09/22/2011, 08:19 PM
The tank is only too deep when you can't afford to light the lps at the bottom :)

snorvich
09/22/2011, 08:33 PM
The tank is only too deep when you can't afford to light the lps at the bottom :)

True. But for me, 30 inches is about the most I can handle. Although lighting it is not a problem with my Pacific Sun lights.

NatureNerd
09/22/2011, 08:40 PM
I think that if you can't reach the bottom then its too deep. There are a couple places in the back of my tank that I can't reach and that is always where something drops or some algae starts growing. I hate it! So for me, 24" is about it.

jporter
09/22/2011, 08:52 PM
I have a 30" deep 150 gallon. Setup was kind of a pain, but love the look of it. Get a good pair of tongs and enjoy.

Steve175
09/22/2011, 08:58 PM
I have a 30" deep 150 gallon. Setup was kind of a pain, but love the look of it. Get a good pair of tongs and enjoy.

Agree: 32" deep here. 30" is fine and the additional real estate (assuming your lighting is up to the task) is well worth the logistics. Ignore the depth envy.

JohnM99
09/22/2011, 09:00 PM
In my first tank I made the mistake of overcrowding - some of the more open somewhat minimalist aquascaping I have seen here is very appealing, and would make accessing corners easier.
Some of the new LEDs are certainly enough for more than 30 inches. Would you agree that 200-250 or so PAR at the bottom is plenty for clams and a good match for MH levels?

Steve175
09/22/2011, 09:33 PM
I've yet to jump on the LED bandwagon (although I've 2 ELOS E-lytes over my refug): do feel that for MH, you enter the 400W threshold above 24" height (assuming no DSB).

LordsSoilder
09/22/2011, 09:36 PM
Deep tanks are great, get a set of long tongs (the kind that can hold rock) and get strong lighting. You can keep more variety coral this way, and aquascaping is fun. Just remember to put low light coral towards the bottom, and needy sps towards the top.

Deep Tanks are my favorite, but they can be a pain to clean!

BuckeyeTodd
09/22/2011, 09:38 PM
My tank is 27" and I use T5's and it works fine

Palting
09/23/2011, 05:27 AM
I had a 30" deep 110RR, and currently have a 27" 150RR. A long time ago, I had a shallow 75 gal.

It certainly takes a different mindset to go 30" or more. It's not the equipment that's the problem. You can always get better lights, more powerheads, tongs, etc. It's the maintenance. With a 24" or so tank, if you need or want to rearrange something in the tank, or want to glue a frag or remove an errant growth or a pest, you don't think twice about it. You just go ahead and do it, and if you don't like it, do it again at the slightest whim. With the 30" tank, you have to take your shirt off and go up to your shoulders in the water. Or, get tongs or long sticks and try to manuever around the rocks and coral with these long tools. It certainly is not as easy as simply rolling up your sleeves and doing whatever you want anywhere you want to as you would in a shallower tank. This makes you think twice, giving extra thought as to whether you really need to do it or not, or if it's worth the effort or not, when you have a 30" or deeper tank. Sometimes, you have to accept a compromise or somethng less than what you want because of the extra effort that would otherwise be needed.

Having said that, I love the look of a tall and long tank. It's like looking through a picture window rather than a narrow porthole. Looking at a tall tank makes it seem more like you are in the tank rather than outside looking in. It makes all those negatives I mentioned worth the extra effort.

JohnM99
09/23/2011, 07:00 AM
Any comments on glass and bracing? I hate Eurobracing or at least the fairly wide eurobracing many acrylic tanks have. 1/2" is as thick as Starphire goes, but other brands of low lead go thicker - what have you guys done with that? Centre bracing? Any rimless 30" tall? Width will only be 45".

betamed
09/23/2011, 08:26 PM
IMO it depends on how tall you are and the height of the stand. I had a 30" tank and a 34" stand and it was a pain. now 28"tank and a 32" stand and its much better.

Steve175
09/24/2011, 08:09 PM
Any comments on glass and bracing? I hate Eurobracing or at least the fairly wide eurobracing many acrylic tanks have. 1/2" is as thick as Starphire goes, but other brands of low lead go thicker - what have you guys done with that? Centre bracing? Any rimless 30" tall? Width will only be 45".

I have 2 separate rimless 32" depth ELOS tanks which I love. Also, they are both bowfront to boot.

JohnM99
09/25/2011, 02:07 PM
Steve - how thick is the glass on those?