Looking for basic info on using Biopellets, Phosban, etc

[heckeng]

Hey all, I have a 90 gallon reef, focusing on zoas and ricordia. I run a very simple sump with a SRO1000 skimmer that seems to be working great. I do have 6 small fish which I feel bad about not feeding as much as they would like as I try to keep polutants down in the tank. I use RO water but still have a little diatomacious brown algae that grows on the glass every couple days, and I have a little cyano in lower flow areas. I would love to improve water quality to help take care of these issues. I recently read a good review thread on a SRO biopellet reactor and have done some reading on biopellets and apparently they are solid carbon? They don't look like what I would expect for Carbon but that is what I have read.

So my question or questions are:

-Do these actually absorb contaminants like Nitrates and Phosphates?
-Do they become "used up" and need replaced once they quit absorbing if that is what they do?
-How do you size the amount of Biopellets you need for a tank?
-Would biopellets be better than something like phosban or GFO?
-Would you recommend something else completely? If so, what?

Thanks in advance

Scott

[heckeng]

Ok, I found a site that described the biopellets. Apparently, they act the same as vodka dosing by adding free carbon to the system so that more bacteria can grow and thus use up the excess Nitrates and Phosphates. Your skimmer then removes the bacteria from the system as it dies so it doesn't just re-polute the system.

Have any of you used one of these for an extended period of time and how were your results?

[Jfoster33702]

I don't have an answer for you, but I've been reading for the last couple weeks, trying to get up on the "latest" in filtration.

I've been out of it for a few years now but one of the things I previously liked about the hobby in general was it's move towards more simplistic, non-mechanical, natural filtration methods (live rock, skimming and water changes...basically). I had it narrowed down to just that, plus some AB buffer. (with great results).

Now, I see that everyone is throwing vodka in their tanks and/or running "biopellets" or some other technology - and there's no 100% proven method that just works. It seems like there are equal people who are happy and unhappy.

So, what I've learned so far (learned being a loose term) is:

-Do these actually absorb contaminants like Nitrates and Phosphates?
Not exactly, it's converted into bacteria (I believe)

-Do they become "used up" and need replaced once they quit absorbing if that is what they do? They do need to be replaced 3-6 months seems to be what people are saying.

-How do you size the amount of Biopellets you need for a tank?
I doubt anyone can tell you this! There are some "guidelines" but if you search, everyone is in a debate over this and generally people will tell you that it will vary depending on a lot of factors...

-Would biopellets be better than something like phosban or GFO?
A lot of posts with people returning to phosban/gfo

-Would you recommend something else completely? If so, what?

I don't know enough to be doing any recommending to anyone - but personally, I'm going to avoid biopellets. Nothing like taking the somewhat precise chemistry of a hobby and adding some weird variable that is impossible to "know" and if you get wrong can ruin your tank. Not to mention, pay for media, then you have to feed your tank MORE to compensate.

What ever happened to simple?

[deepseadan]

Bio plastics work very well. Start with a very small amount in a reactor, like a handful for a 100 gallon tank. Slowly add more, over a long period of time (months) if needed. If using a phosban reactor be sure to buy the screens, don't use the sponges. Very easy and far more effective than phosphate removers, and it also brings down nitrates very quickly. Sometimes they work so well, that people's tanks almost crash because of the drastic almost instant drop to zero nitrates and phosphates. When that happens, your water will cloud (bacteria bloom) and that means you have to many pellets. That's why I say to start with a small handful. I use them and my tank never has phosphate or nitrates. In my 125 gallon system I have a phosban reactor with one inch in the bottom. I use a Rio 800 pump at full flow. They are amazing, and be sure you keep skimming.

[caliking]

Bio pellets are danger. I have seen a lot of tanks crash because of the
. It's a new product still being tested to this day, so results will vary and do depend on many factors. It's a hit or miss. I use them but have not noticed any improvements in my reef. I maybe doing away with them soon.

[aquatictec]

A tank is not going to crash because of biopellets (about:blank#). A tank will crash if you have high nutrient levels and add too much biopellets (about:blank#) and have a bacterial bloom that lowers the oxygen level which may kill your fish which may kill your coral. If you start a new tank with biopellets (about:blank#) it should never be a concern. If you have the patience to start slowly on an existing tank and gradually build up it shouldn't be a concern. If you pump stops long enough for your filter to go anoxic and you don't clean out your filter and that goes for any filter including biopellets (about:blank#) and you then restart it you will probably kill your fish. If your tank gets cloudy from biopellets (about:blank#) lower the amount you are using or remove the biopellets (about:blank#) temporarily or add a uv (about:blank#) to your system.

[hypnoj]

I have been using biopellets in both of my tanks now (80g and 60g) and am very happy with the results on both. I only do a water change every 6 months just to replenish some lost salts and my nitrates and phosphates are lower now then when I started.

[MHG]

So biopellets can be used on a new tank? If ones nitrates are at 0 then what will they feed on?

[hypnoj]

i dosed with Microbacter 7 to start with