Mourning period for clown fish.

[Chromis_VL]

Hi,

2 months ago, I restarted my sea water tank after an idle period of 6 years.

Last month, got myself 2 Percs, a 6-line wrasse, a Royal Gramma and a Yellow Watchman.

As I didn't have a quarantine tank, I've put them all on the tank and hoped for the best. :debi:

The YWG died within days of his lower lip became damaged (I assumed it was a fight with the 6-line).

Both 6-line and RG and getting along (phew) and eating quite well.

The clown fish never ate much but they did eat and were looking very active.

Last week, they started get white edges on their fins and they looked like they were powder coated. They went from eating very small bits to eating nothing at all.

On the advice of the LFS, I gave them a FW bath (3 minutes), but unfortunately they both died today within hours of the other (although one was looking much stronger than the other).

I still have no idea of what caused it. But I guess that a Perc not eating is going to cause some issues.

My question is: should I wait some time before introducing new percs?

How long? I want to avoid introducing new fish if there is a risk for them.

[britreefer]

your fish had ich. the freshwater bath is kind of old school, its very stressful for fish and if you leave them in too long it can really damage them. I would avoid that method. do you have a reef tank? if not then you can raise the temperature to 85 or higher and im not sure about products in belgium but you can use Ich attack which is a reef safe treatment and wait a few weeks. this will kill the ich present in your tank and you can then re stock after the wait. i suggest drip acclimating all your next fish which is far less stressful for them.

[MrTuskfish]

I'd guess your fish had velvet or brooklynella; based on the timing of the deaths. As long as you don't use a QT, i think these problems are inevitable. IMO, Ich-Attack, and similar products, have shown to be worthless. Raising temp does nothing for SW ich (it helps with FW ich, a totally different parasite). I'd read the stickies at the top of this section of the forum.

[snorvich]

I'd guess your fish had velvet or brooklynella; based on the timing of the deaths. As long as you don't use a QT, i think these problems are inevitable. IMO, Ich-Attack, and similar products, have shown to be worthless. Raising temp does nothing for SW ich (it helps with FW ich, a totally different parasite). I'd read the stickies at the top of this section of the forum.

Excellent advice.

[Chromis_VL]

I'd guess your fish had velvet or brooklynella; based on the timing of the deaths. As long as you don't use a QT, i think these problems are inevitable. IMO, Ich-Attack, and similar products, have shown to be worthless. Raising temp does nothing for SW ich (it helps with FW ich, a totally different parasite). I'd read the stickies at the top of this section of the forum.

I thought velvet as well in the beginning, I tried to get a tank to do some copper treatment but could get a big enough that i could safely dose.

I'll go through the stickies, and get myself a QT.

The Gramma and 6-line seem to be doing fine (the ones that I was most afraid of). I hope they keep like this! Do I need to take any special care?

So, even before I read the stickies:headwalls:, can I get some advice from you on size of QT, time of quarantine and meds to have at hand?

When could I safely add 2 other Percs if it was Brook?

Thanks to all for your help

[Chromis_VL]

Just bought a 15g tank for a QT. Already chose 2 bigger Percs which seemed to be eating well. Put a reserve on them and will wait for a couple of days while setting up the QT. I'll go to the LFS again tomorrow or the day after to check them out.
Any tips on what to look for? Besides their appetite and appearance, I wouldn't have a clue what to look further.

Plan is to pick'em up in the weekend and QT them for 4 weeks.

[dunc101]

Just bought a 15g tank for a QT. Already chose 2 bigger Percs which seemed to be eating well. Put a reserve on them and will wait for a couple of days while setting up the QT. I'll go to the LFS again tomorrow or the day after to check them out.
Any tips on what to look for? Besides their appetite and appearance, I wouldn't have a clue what to look further.

Plan is to pick'em up in the weekend and QT them for 4 weeks.

I would be very cautious with the two new clowns. If it was ich that the other fish had, then your main DT probably has ich as well and your existing fish in the main tank could start showing symptoms. Your best bet might be to QT all fish in your main tank as well for at least 8 weeks and to treat with hypo or cupramine to get rid of the ich. Leaving your main tank fallow for 8 weeks or more should be enough time for the ich in the main tank to die off. I've gone through this as well... so I know it's a pain!

[britreefer]

not quite sure how you can say raising temp does nothing and how ich attach or similar doesnt either. I have used it a number of times with great success, as many others have too. Ich is often all encompassing seeing as the parasites are so closely related in infection and life cycle. I believe knowing how to use ich attack properly is the key to success. the product alone will not "cure" ich seeing as it only kills ich at certain times of its life cycle. I use Ich attack because it works on velvet and similar protists too. raising the temp causes the life cycle to accelerate and combined with ich attach or similar will kill all stages of the parasite ( its biological fact that higher temps accelerate metabolism and reproduction in bacteria, protists, and many other organisms). it doesnt work when you just throw the bottle in your tank because the cysts on the fish or in the benthic stage are not affected. so you think you have cured it untill these dormant ones hatch. The waiting period is crucial because the parasite only survives with hosts present in the system, aka fish. so higher temps= faster reproduction=faster time to free swimming stage=easy killing+ no host= no more ich or velvet. To say the methods are worthless and dont work doesnt really help nor give reason for their worthlessness. if you put fish in your tank without treating it properly you will just have another problem with the same parasite once your fish become prone to it. something to think about anyway.

[britreefer]

I should also add/ clarify that raising the temp with fish/ corals in there is not good. its is purely a way to rid a tank of the parasite if the tank is pretty much empty. which it is in your case. like suggested read the stickies but the methods work if you use them right.

[Chromis_VL]

Your best bet might be to QT all fish in your main tank as well for at least 8 weeks and to treat with hypo or cupramine to get rid of the ich. Leaving your main tank fallow for 8 weeks or more should be enough time for the ich in the main tank to die off.

How will the tank fallow, if the fish are inside?

I have mixed feelings here:

Is it be better to remove the fish and QT them and the clowns at the same time?
Maybe the best approach is to remove the Gramma and 6-line to the QT, let the tank fallow (min.8 weeks), reintroduce them in the DT, get the clownfish, QT it for 4 weeks and then into the DT. This seems to be the safer route.

Anyway, I'll be removing 2 happy fish which are eating and showing no signs of disease and maybe stress them by putting them in Q.

Your views are still very welcome.

Still going through the stickies :headwally:

[MrTuskfish]

There is no way, other than letting a tank go fishless for about 8 weeks, to rid it of parasites. This is probably the most common question on the disease forum and the answer is always the same. Just because you don't see parasites doesn't mean they aren't there. They are, and will return when conditions and timing is right. Happens every time. There just isn't an easier, softer way. BTW, putting fish into a decent QT isn't going to stress them and certainly is no reason (IMO & IME) not to treat them.

[Chromis_VL]

Thanks MrTuskfish,
The question remains if i may qt and treat all fish together (including the new percs) or if i should wait and qt just the existing ones.
I'm thinking waiting sounds better, but i could be overlooking some detail.

Also, if the gramma or 6-line show something when on QT, how should i treat'em?
I'll google a bit as well, but is copper use possible?

Should I use any meds during QT? or just leave the fish there?

My QT is quite small (15g or so)

[britreefer]

+1 Mrtuskfish. you will see the problem come back without leaving your DT empty and treating. you can QT your fish together, yes. chances are they are still prone to the disease while its in your display tank.

[Chromis_VL]

it's a PITA to QT fish and try to understand the best course for a treatment, when I don't even know what killed the Percs.

I've just cancelled the Percs and will focus on the Gramma and 6-line.
I'll put them on the QT with no treatment for 8 weeks.

Should I use water from the DT to start up the QT?
I have no sump and wouldn't like to put the filter directly into the tank.
Any other suggestions?
I have 2 pieces of dead live rock that I can use along on the QT to start cycling it.


How can I ensure that I don't bring the "bugs" back in when I put the fish back in the DT?

I know that Ich and other parasites will forever reside in a tank (Yes, I've read snorvich's sticky on fallow period) but I wouldn't like to go through all the grief of ammonia monitoring + daily water changes during 2 months for nothing.

[britreefer]

you can in fact rid your tank of ich completely with the steps already mentioned in this thread. it is possible. Just leaving the tank empty does not guarantee 100% that the ich will be gone..thats why its best to hit it from a few different angles. dont set your QT up with water from your DT that would defeat the purpose as you could then have the ich in your QT too...it would eventually die but why start a step behind IMO. best to start from scratch. decide on the type of QT you want. I am a fan of hyposaline QT's with salinity around 1.010 to 1.015 this is a pretty affective method. and you can combine it with the correct medicines to cover all stages of the bugs cycle. the period that you have your DT empty and if you combine with I prefer non copper based medicines you can get the bugs out of your DT too. Then you must QT every fish you get before you put into your DT in order to stay bug free.

[snorvich]

I am a fan of hyposaline QT's with salinity around 1.010 to 1.015 this is a pretty affective method.

Well, no. Hyposalinity will only affect ich at 1.009 and below. Fish can tolerate 1.008 but not below

Then you must QT every fish you get before you put into your DT in order to stay bug free.

I agree, QT always.

[britreefer]

There is no "magic" number for hyposaline QT's. a low salinity will affect the protist no matter. that is like saying corals can only lay calcium at cal levels above 450. which is not true, they can do it at many levels...

[Chromis_VL]

Clownfish probably died from velvet. It matches a lot more the descriptions i've seen around.
The Gramma now seems to have 2 or 3 spots of ich on his tail.
I'm planning to start with hypo and get rid of the ich.
After the fish are out of ich, I'll tackle the velvet.

I know that with copper, i'd kill 2 birds with 1 stone.
But i may also ending up 2 fish due to my lack of experience with it.

While this is done, the tank will be fishless for 8 weeks, maybe more.

[Chromis_VL]

The sticky by sk8r mentions some possible compatibility issues of wrasses with copper.
Any experiences on the matter?

[britreefer]

they are so similar you can treat them together, thats what I have been trying to say. there are meds that affect both. hypo will inhibit both. you can do this whole thing at once. ich is often all encompassing which i stated in a previous post. you can argue with it or not, but many people say ich for multiple parasites. the people above have done nothing but try and find somethign wrong with what I have said. not sure why, seeing as there are no magic numbers such as 1.009, the lower the better but low salinity will inhibit no matter what. the stickies on this forum are great but many have been copied and pasted from google, and people just regurgitate what they read from them. yes I agree you had velvet specifically. Treatment is still similar. velvet is affected by hypo but can live through it so therefore you need copper or similar for a complete cure. no host means no protist, higher temp works to speed the cycle and you can turn out your light for velvet as it photosynthesizes so your hitting multiple parasites from multiple angles. some fish familes do have trouble with ich, wrasses are one. you should be fine with a 6-line though. use a cupramine based copper as its more stable and finiky species seem to do better with it, its also easier to remove and doesnt completely screw your system up. you can also try all the above with non copper based meds. they do work.

[EllieSuz]

There is no more hotly contested issue in our hobby than Ich and its treatment. Because you have received conflicting advice in this thread, I urge you to follow the guidelines on the stickies and take the advice of others with a grain of salt (no pun intended).

[snorvich]

they are so similar you can treat them together, thats what I have been trying to say. there are meds that affect both. hypo will inhibit both. you can do this whole thing at once.

Sorry, that is not correct. Hypo at the proper SG will work on ich, have no effect on Oodinium/Velvet or Brook

ich is often all encompassing which i stated in a previous post. you can argue with it or not, but many people say ich for multiple parasites. the people above have done nothing but try and find somethign wrong with what I have said. not sure why, seeing as there are no magic numbers such as 1.009,

Again, that is not correct. SG of say, 1.015 will have no effect on ich

the lower the better but low salinity will inhibit no matter what.

That is simply wrong in both regards. SG below 1.008 will kill fish. Low salinity, such as 1.015 has no effect on ich.

the stickies on this forum are great

Thanks, I wrote a few of them

but many have been copied and pasted from google,
and people just regurgitate what they read from them. yes I agree you had velvet specifically. Treatment is still similar. velvet is affected by hypo

Again, wrong. A fresh water dip will give temporary relief to fish with velvet but ONLY copper will eradicate it

but can live through it so therefore you need copper or similar for a complete cure. no host means no protist, higher temp works to speed the cycle

It does speed the cycle but will increase the likelihood of your fish dieing because of reduced oxygen content in the water

and you can turn out your light for velvet as it photosynthesizes so your hitting multiple parasites from multiple angles. some fish familes do have trouble with ich, wrasses are one. you should be fine with a 6-line though. use a cupramine based copper as its more stable and finiky species seem to do better with it, its also easier to remove and doesnt completely screw your system up. you can also try all the above with non copper based meds. they do work.

I feel you are providing a lot of incorrect information.

[MrTuskfish]

I feel you are providing a lot of incorrect information.
I feel the same way.
Not an insult; but this seems to be a collection of all the biggest myths in existance regarding SW parasites. A little research will show that this collection of misinformation has been PROVEN wrong. BTW, I can remember when I assumed all the points were probably correct; but time, research, and listening to real experts has been very enlightening. There's still plenty of unknowns in the area of SW parasites; sticking to what is known is vital for us.

[MrTuskfish]

The sticky by sk8r mentions some possible compatibility issues of wrasses with copper.
Any experiences on the matter?

Copper is always contraversial. I've used Cupramine copper with no problems on wrasse of every description and have never had a problem. I use copper on all new fish in QT. I always make sure fish are feeding before adding copper add more slowly than the bottle suggests, watch for problems (if a fish stops eating, I back off the copper, its a 1st sign of copper problems), and treat at slightly less than the suggested .50ppm level suggested by SeaChem.

[snorvich]

Copper is always contraversial. I've used Cupramine copper with no problems on wrasse of every description and have never had a problem. I use copper on all new fish in QT. I always make sure fish are feeding before adding copper add more slowly than the bottle suggests, watch for problems (if a fish stops eating, I back off the copper, its a 1st sign of copper problems), and treat at slightly less than the suggested .50ppm level suggested by SeaChem.

In my experience slowly raising copper level is essential. Many fish can deal with copper at slightly less than therapeutic levels. So, I agree with MrTuskfish. Watch fish behavior (especially eating behavior).

[Chromis_VL]

Thanks,

It will be my first quarantine / treatment, so I'll take the opportunity to try some stuff.
I'm fully aware that I can't use hypo and copper at the same time, but since I've diagnosed ich on the Gramma, I'll try the hypo first.

My QT is running with an internal filter and I've added some cycle bacteria to it. As soon as I don't see ammonia or nitrite, I'll put the fish in and "hypo" them.

After 6-7 weeks, hopefully there's no ich and the fish are still alive :-/

Then depending on how the fish are doing, I'll try the copper. But here opinions diverge, most posts recommend .50ppm but I've seen a post from a RC Team member mentioning .25ppm.

Anyway, since I hope it's merely prophylactic, I'll take my time to increase the copper, and at the first sign of distress from the fish I'll pull it out.

In the meantime the tank will remain fishless for these 9 weeks and hopefully I'll get rid of those 99.something %

The reason I'm doing this is to ensure parasite free fish + gain some experience on this.

I just hope I don't end up killing the Gramma & 6-line, as the girls and wife are really becoming attached to these wonderful fish.

I can't afford both financially and morally to keep on killing fish.

[MrTuskfish]

In my experience slowly raising copper level is essential. Many fish can deal with copper at slightly less than therapeutic levels. So, I agree with MrTuskfish. Watch fish behavior (especially eating behavior).

I wish SeaChem would offer some more detailed info with their Cupramine. They have great tech support and a decent web-site; but don't really get into the things that give copper a bad rep.
You're right on the secret, IMO. Increase very gradually, unless you have a very sick fish and no choice. SC suggests starting with a dosage of .25 and going up to .50 in 48 hours. IMO & IME; this is too much, too fast. Even copper-sensitive fish (which SC should also mention) can usually do just fine if a therapeutic level of about .35ppm is introduced over about 5 days. IME, warning signs are the feeding stops, possibly reddish rash spots, and just the general lethargy stuff. Be ready to reduce Cu levels if this stuff appears. WCs. carbon, or Cuprisorb. In a good HOB QT filter, Cuprisorb can remove Cu in a very short time. After fish have gotten back to normal, its fine to try again, but go slower. Be sure to start the Cu treatment timetable when the fish is finally at the desired level. I also wish SC could provide a chart with more realistic dosages for different groups of fish.
Over the last 20 years or so, I've used copper (mostly Cupramine) on more fish than most folks would believe. As a preventative measure for all my fish in my several big tanks prior to Katrina, all my fish bought since then (lots), all the fish for my friend & helper's 2 big tanks, and even fish with copper-treatable conditions for a LFS before I moved (several of which were beyond help with Oodinium). I did lose a Flame Angel, and possibly a Dalmatian puffer to the copper and that was before I really took the steps outlined above. I think a Flame is the only fish I defiantly wouldn't dose with copper; which is why I guess I don't own one. I'm in the minority I know, but I have no problem getting puffers,angels (except Flames, but will still try again), and other copper-sensitive up to an effective dose of copper. I'm on a rant, I know, its tough enough to just get folks to use a QT, using copper as a preventive is controversial and I sure don't expect everyone to do it starting tomorrow. I also wish the myth about silicone absorbing & releasing copper; making any tank that ever contained copper useless for inverts, would finally be put to death once and for all.

[snorvich]

I also wish the myth about silicone absorbing & releasing copper; making any tank that ever contained copper useless for inverts, would finally be put to death once and for all.

:fun2:

Ok, it is dead now.

[C0rp]

Thank god you two guys are here. I have learned countless amounts of info and proper reefkeeping from the both of you. Thank you for steering this thread straight.

[Chromis_VL]

Fishes were put in QT yesterday.
Too stressed to eat, I didn't even try.

I just wished my QT was set with a bit more time in advance.

Tackling the WCs will be the most challenging with hypo.

What % would you change on a daily basis?
All my salt water is 1,024 so I need to make a batch of 1,009.

[jcmjoe]

I currently have a Lunare Wrasse and a Red Fairy Wrasse in QT for Ich and treating them with Cupramine, it took care of the ich in about a week and they are still eating and going strong after 4weeks in QT. BTW there is 2 False Percs and a yellow Tang in ther too and all are doing great,(letting my DT Fallow for 8 weeks) I currently have the Cupramine level at around.35 . Good luck

[jcmjoe]

Just letting you Know Mr. Tuskfish that I had a 30 Gallon Tank with a crushed coral substrate that was treated with Cupramine, and after about 2 months with Carbon and Poly Filter pads and regular water changes and no other changes I reintroduced inverts into the tank (peppermint shrimp, urchins and snails) and they were fine! I have alot to learn still and always listen to you and Mr Snorvich for advice but I thought you might like to hear that! haha

[MrTuskfish]

Fishes were put in QT yesterday.
Too stressed to eat, I didn't even try.

I just wished my QT was set with a bit more time in advance.

Tackling the WCs will be the most challenging with hypo.

What % would you change on a daily basis?
All my salt water is 1,024 so I need to make a batch of 1,009.

I can't imagine how to do WCs with hypo. There just isn't any room for error; go an hour at 1.010 and new ich theronts can find a fish host and you're back to square one. Go much time under 1.008 and the fish croaks. Not much wiggle room. I'm no pro with hypo, but if I had to control ammonia in a hypo QT; I'd use one of the ammonia neutralizers (Prime, Ammo-Lock, etc). BTW, if you use these; your ammonia tests won't work, you'll need one of those little ammonia alert badges. Also, never use copper in a tank that has one of the ammonia neutralizers. I think my remarks here are OK, but wait for someone who uses hypo.

[Chromis_VL]

Thanks MrTuskfish.
Just ordered Cupramine and an ammonia alert badge online.

I'll order a Salifert Copper test at my LFS (bit cheaper there).

No signs of Ich on the fish, only the Gramma is not eating yet.
He's really shy, everytime he sees me he hides.
I 'm hoping it starts eating again soon.

Maybe I skip the hypo and jump straight to copper.
How much should i use for a prophylatic approach? For how long?
2 weeks seems a lot (if there are no symptoms)!

[MrTuskfish]

Thanks MrTuskfish.
Just ordered Cupramine and an ammonia alert badge online.

I'll order a Salifert Copper test at my LFS (bit cheaper there).

No signs of Ich on the fish, only the Gramma is not eating yet.
He's really shy, everytime he sees me he hides.
I 'm hoping it starts eating again soon.

Maybe I skip the hypo and jump straight to copper.
How much should i use for a prophylatic approach? For how long?
2 weeks seems a lot (if there are no symptoms)!

IMO, a minimum of 3-4 weeks copper, ich can go well beyond 2 weeks before showing any signs. A good read:http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1992196

[foxrazr]

I would also look into using Instant Ocean Bio Spira. That way you can leave the cupramine there at least for the recommended 14 days without having to do water changes. Some people say Bio-Spira is BS but it does work. I have used it numerous times. The last time I put 5 lyretail anthias to a brand new quarantine tank 40 Breeder and all survived for 2 months with no water changes. I had the ammonia alert badge and never had a spike in ammonia. This batch of fish I only gave them two rounds of Prazi and no cupramine.

[Chromis_VL]

Yes, here I am again.

I'm now completely fishless and lost for words.

Here's part 2 of my tale:

The Gramma eventually died, after a delay in shipment from the place where I ordered Cupramine, so I wasn't able to start treatment on time to save it. At the end, poor thing was covered in white.

Now, for the real sad part:

Through tick and thin, the 6-line has endured all the bad stuff.
Finally on a QT with copper and eating quite well (especially mussels), everything was looking very good for the little fellow.
After 3-4 weeks in Cupramine @ 0.5 ppm, I have decided it was time to bring the levels down to eventually put it back in the DT by Xmas.

Put some activated coal in the filter. In 3 days, the levels of Cu were 0.
But guess what wasn't at 0. Yep, some Ich somehow managed to survive 4 weeks of copper, and quickly took advantage to install itself on the 6-line.
Poor thing stopped eating (right about the same time as CU was 0) and was dead 24 hours later.
A gill smear on microscope showed Ich all over the place. Typical cone shaped "blobs" on the gills.
Curiously, there wasn't one single white spot to be seen on the fish itself.

I don't really expect answers here, but wanted to share the pain and eventual learnings out of this one.

Is this normal?
Did I have to take any other measures? Other meds at the same time?

My DT is almost fallow, but TBH I don't feel like putting fish anymore.

Current population:

1 - GSP colony (growing)
1 - Euphyllia parancora (looking good)
1 - Favia (beautifull)
1 - Xenia (growing). I think it's a Xenia -it came as a hitchhiker with the Favia
2 - Green/Orange Zoanthus colonies (originally one, but the shells where they were split)
1 - Green Zoanthus colony.
1 - Seriatopora caliendrum
1 - Turbinaria
2 - Cleaner Skunk Shrimp
1 - Blood Shrimp
1 - Pepermint shrimp
6 - Trochus "snails" (reproducing)

Fish: -5

Understand what I mean? Maybe I get the courage again to put a couple of "Nemos" on my daughters request.

[andyrm66]

Chromis, Im sorry to hear about that. I am dealing with Ick in a HT as we speak. For future reference and to help others learn and grow from what you went through? The salifret test showed .5 for 4 weeks? You werent using any water from the DT in the QT? Nets, buckets, feeders, etc all need to remain seperate. Not saying this is what happened to you, just looking for all the details. From the time you took the fish out of the DT, you didnt add anything wet into the DT (corals, crabs, snails, rock, sand etc)?

[andyrm66]

Oh and were you doing water changes in the QT? You dosed your cahnge water with the correct amount of copper before adding it to the tank?

Sorry for all the questions, just trying to understand why a proven, cure for ich seemed that it didnt work. From all the research I've done, the only time I've seen it fail, was cross contaimination. I.e. people adding corals to the DT while treating fish in the qt.

[Chromis_VL]

Hi Andy,

Why indeed???

Once the Gramma and the 6-line went to the QT, they didn't leave again.

I kept a strict quarantine and don't use common utensils.

My Salifert indicated 0,5ppm throughout all the time.
Testing was done everyday after replenishing with freshwater.
QT had a line to keep it at the same level.

PH had some big fluctuations between 7,2 and 8 but this was always the case during the 4 weeks.

The weekly water changes always included a pro-rata quantity of Cupramine.

40 liter (10 galon) QT = 2 x 1ml Cupramine
10 liter ( 2,5 galon) WC = 0,5ml Cupramine

NO3 was 30ppm (also Salifert), NO2 =0 and Ammonia Badge Alert never changed colour.

The only thing left is my water supply. I buy water at my LFS (both SW & FW).
I trust their practices are ok, but if they had cross contamination of their SW that could account for this.
I did a small water change (5 liter) when I added the activated coal to the filter

Maybe I need to prepare my own SW (buying only the RO water and adding the salt)

Anyway, I hope my luck starts improving.

A small question (for which I know the answer already): Once fish are in the DT, for how long should corals and other inverts be QT'ed?

At this moment, I don't have a QT setup that can hold corals for a long time.

Is it best to finish setting my DT with some more corals (that I really want), let it fallow and then add fish? or is there another way?

[andyrm66]

Strange, maybe it was the LFS water, though I doubt the would be selling water that is "used". Thanks for the answers, Im not saying you did anything wrong, just curious as to why what happened, did happen. Thanks for the info. As far as I know, 10 weeks is the number for fallow tank or new corals.