Solenoid valve

[x947]

I want to use my apex to open a valve for a specified time and then shut it off to fill/flush a denitrator unit. I will tee the pvc off of the return pump to my display tank. I'm wondering if this solenoid valve will work with the apex. I'm going to have to reduce the 3/4" valve to 1/2" to splice it into the current pvc. I know nothing about the electrical stuff if it doesn't have a two or three prong outlet that plugs into the wall. Will this valve wire directly into the breakout box of the apex ? If so, then it will just be a switch that the apex will turn on/off as programed. Will I need to buy anything else to make this connection to the breakout box ?

Thanks

http://www.irrigationdirect.com/dfv075

[swearint]

Normally, you would just use an outlet to supply power and open the solenoid for the specified duration. But, that valve is 24VDC rather than 120VAC. It would require a transformer. Second, that valve is intended for freshwater irrigation and appears to have wetted stainless steel parts. In otherwords, not suitable for saltwater usage.

Todd

[x947]

I can't find any 1/2" solenoids that are reasonably priced. Nor can I find any that are advertised as completely salt water safe . . .

Any ideas out there about how to solve this problem ?

[swearint]

Wouldn't a maxijet pump be sufficient? Just turn it ON/OFF as needed.

Todd

[clittrell]

I use this as a drain on tee from the return pump to drain water for water changes. Low power so needs to be plugged into outlet 4 or 8. Works great.

http://autotopoff.com/solenoid/

[x947]

that's exactly what I want in a 1/2" size. That's for 1/4" . . .

[hollback]

Check out Mcmaster.com

They have a ton of solenoids. You might be able to find one for corrosive liquids that would work but might be a few hundred dollars.

[dmastracchio]

Just got a 1/4" solenoid valve off ebay for 15 bucks.

http://stores.ebay.com/valves4projects

They have a 1/2" one there.

[slief]

I posted this in your other thread.. I know its not what you want to hear but if you want to do it right, its going to cost you..

STC valves (http://stcvalve.com/Process_Valves.htm?gclid=COKLyf6Nr6wCFQZThwod8G6KHQ) would be my first choice. The have Engineered Nylon/plastic and teflon valves that are ideal in my opinion. They are not cheap but they stand behind their valves, have 120V in both normally open and normally closed configurations that have standard threaded fittings to easily adapt to what ever you want to use them for. You can get the valves with nothing metal on the wet side. With the kind of investment that we have in our tanks, is it really worth it to experiment with cheap parts that WILL fail you or would you rather do it right the first time and not increae the risk your investment because you tried to cut corners and be cheap??

I have used their 1/4" valves as well as their 3/4" and 1" valves and they are built like tanks and backed with great support.

I can't say anything good or bad about those "gravity feed" solenoids that people are pointing out on ebay as I have never used one but the fact that they are that cheap speaks volumes about the quality of components that are made with. Personally speaking, I would not risk my tank that has cost me 10's of thousands on a $15 electronic mechanical part. I don't think I would sleep well at night wondering how long it will or won't last. Keep in mind that the salt water enviornment that our tanks depend on have lots of calcium, living organisms as well as other stuff that coats the insides of the plumbing. Those things will effect the solenoid valves operation as well. Most solenoids operate off of magnetics and cheap magnetics will impact the valves ability to open and close once things start getting coated with calcerous things. The same issues (calcium build up, living organisms etc) that build up and impact anti siphon valves which are widely regarded as a bad thing to have in a tank because they ALL will fail eventually, will also effect the Solenoids. If you have a cheap solenoid, the likelyhood of a failure is increased exponentially in my opinion which is why I would never use a cheap one in my system.. Opening and closing valves automatically is a high tech process within our "high tech" tanks.. Do it right the first time and save your self the headache or worse, potential disaster!!

That said, a maxijet was mentioned by Todd. I am not sure that would be ideal as it might allow water from the denitrator to back flow through the pump however, you might be able to use a dosing style pump as an alternative since the rollers would effectively inhibit the flow from going back through the pump. While a dosing pump does not provide a lot of flow, running it for a longer period of time might accomplish flushing your denitrator. I have to wonder if you really want the pressure and flow from your return pump going through it when you flush? I am not so sure that would be benificial to begin with. Then again, I have never used a denitrator so I am not sure but I always thought they should be left alone.

[garbled]

I have a sulfur denitrator operating off my apex automatically, similar to what you are trying to do. I used the 1/4" solenoid from autotopoff.com mentioned earlier. I highly recommend it. I can't fathom why you would want a 1/2" one, the flow would be way too much IMO. The 1/4" one would be too much for mine at full blast, I have to tune it back a bit.

It's worth noting, that an aqualifter pump will not work. Eventually the backpressure becomes too high, and the pump stops pushing water, and then the reactor starts producing HS. With the solenoid, never had a problem.

[purge43]

I dont understand why you need to turn on and turn off the supply. My understanding is to leave a sulfur denitrator running all the time. Enlighten me here, Im in the 2nd week of start up on a skimz sulfur denitrator.

[Dallas Reefer]

Yep you don't want sprinkler Valves

[x947]

this is not a sulfer denitrator . . .it doses methanol with a peristaltic pump into about a 5 gallon acrylic box. Inside the box is eggrate. The water is cirulated through the eggcrate and the methanol is effectively a carbon source to grow denitating bacteria on the eggcrate. Once the water has circulated enough to eliminate the nitrate, then the timer goes off and flushes the clear water back into the system and refills the box for another round. Hard to understand but I need the 1/2 to tie into current plumbing and enough flow to effectively flush or change the water out for another cycle. 1/8 or 1/4 will take forever (I think . . .) to clear the box I'm using.

I don't mind spending a few extra bucks for a quality product, but I didn't see any all plastic solenoids from STC at all . . . It looked like they were only 1/8 or 1/4 . . .

[slief]

this is not a sulfer denitrator . . .it doses methanol with a peristaltic pump into about a 5 gallon acrylic box. Inside the box is eggrate. The water is cirulated through the eggcrate and the methanol is effectively a carbon source to grow denitating bacteria on the eggcrate. Once the water has circulated enough to eliminate the nitrate, then the timer goes off and flushes the clear water back into the system and refills the box for another round. Hard to understand but I need the 1/2 to tie into current plumbing and enough flow to effectively flush or change the water out for another cycle. 1/8 or 1/4 will take forever (I think . . .) to clear the box I'm using.

I don't mind spending a few extra bucks for a quality product, but I didn't see any all plastic solenoids from STC at all . . . It looked like they were only 1/8 or 1/4 . . .

I am pretty sure they have 1/2" ones that are all plastic on the wetside. I would give them a call. They are very helpful.