PDA

View Full Version : Peninsula Flow???


peppie
11/20/2011, 04:20 PM
I would like some input on the flow for this design. The height difference from the 3 sided weir to the back wall of the tank to the overflow box is 1/2''. Will this design work?
http://i888.photobucket.com/albums/ac86/peppie53/170/11-20-2011012.jpg

http://i888.photobucket.com/albums/ac86/peppie53/170/11-20-2011003.jpg

I would like to ask for a recommendation on a closed loop pump. Something in the range of 4000 to 5000gph

Comtek
11/20/2011, 05:35 PM
why do you need it on 3 sides?

peppie
11/20/2011, 06:01 PM
I want to be sure to keep all the surface area water going to the sump. The more linear inches of weir I provide the more surface water will enter the weir.

This being a peninsula style tank I am not comfortable with the weir being on the short end of the tank. The weir will be covered from the viewing areas.

richierich2000
11/20/2011, 08:24 PM
I think it will work but how are you going to hide it on the sides so you don't see it?

I have a 210 with a overflow on one end and it is fine

peppie
11/20/2011, 10:14 PM
I think it will work but how are you going to hide it on the sides so you don't see it?

I have a 210 with a overflow on one end and it is fine

There will be a face frame around the three viewing sides of the tank. This face frame will be 3 1/2'' below the top edge of the tank.
My thought is that the suspended debris on that end of the tank will have a much better chance of getting to the skimmer.
I may be over thinking this design, but it couldnt hurt having a weir at that end of the tank.

larrybeck
11/21/2011, 12:25 AM
peppie - you mention that you'll be using BeanAnimal-style plumbing. What size drain pipe are you planning to use to accommodate 4000-5000gph? You don't provide dimensions on your drawing, or any sort of plumbing info that would tell us about the flow *within* the tank. Unless this is truly a beast (1000g?) I would think that so much flow through the tank would certainly push water into the overflow. Did you use the calculator on the site to see how many inches of weir you need for that volume?

peppie
11/21/2011, 08:05 AM
the Bean Animal will only be running under 1000gph. The 4000gph will be for the closed loop.

4 sides is would help the algae not growing didnt think of that. I will consider it thanks guys

coralnut99
11/21/2011, 01:19 PM
I wouldn't be comfortable with the inside corners of where the long section meet the end section. Difficult for me to describe, but to me it just looks weak at those points and may not stand up to the weight. Remember the basic CTC design has all the long edges siliconed directly to the glass panel. If you can run the return plumbing to the opposite side of the overflow, I think you may be underestimating how much surface water would be moved.

dixiedog
11/21/2011, 01:33 PM
If you've ever used a surface skimming attachment on a HOB filter, you can watch as the device (which is only about an inch in diameter) skims every bit of surface scum off the water in moments, with only a virtual trickle of flow going through it.

The whole coast-to-coast overflow concept (let alone this new "around-the-world" type ;) ) is a complete waste of effort IMHO.

der_wille_zur_macht
11/21/2011, 01:37 PM
I think you are overestimating your need to surface skim the DT. You can make up for a "small" weir with small adjustments to the flow within the tank to ensure that surface water is directed towards the overflow box.

In my 360g I have a (relatively) tiny overflow box, in one corner. If I put a floating object (say, a plastic bag half-full of water with a coral frag in it) in the OPPOSITE corner, it floats directly over to the overflow box, in mere seconds. The entire surface is effectively skimmed by my little tiny poorly placed box. :)

larrybeck
11/21/2011, 03:31 PM
I presume you're only moving the 1000gph going to the BeanAnimal through the coast-to-coast right? The closed-loop would have supply and return plumbed elsewhere?

So assuming you're using 1.5" plumbing and 1000gph you'd only need 19" of weir. Anything more than that wouldn't serve any particular purposes. I like the idea of the weir being in just on location in the tank so that you can "push" surface water toward it.

Are you planning a rimless? If not I'd be concerned about structural integrity as well.

peppie
11/21/2011, 05:08 PM
I wouldn't be comfortable with the inside corners of where the long section meet the end section. Difficult for me to describe, but to me it just looks weak at those points and may not stand up to the weight. Remember the basic CTC design has all the long edges siliconed directly to the glass panel. If you can run the return plumbing to the opposite side of the overflow, I think you may be underestimating how much surface water would be moved.

Good thought on the weak point at the corners. I will deal with that issue when I build the weirs. I will reinforce the weir by attaching them to the corner bracing on top of the tank and the tank top center brace.

peppie
11/21/2011, 05:15 PM
I think you are overestimating your need to surface skim the DT. You can make up for a "small" weir with small adjustments to the flow within the tank to ensure that surface water is directed towards the overflow box.

In my 360g I have a (relatively) tiny overflow box, in one corner. If I put a floating object (say, a plastic bag half-full of water with a coral frag in it) in the OPPOSITE corner, it floats directly over to the overflow box, in mere seconds. The entire surface is effectively skimmed by my little tiny poorly placed x. :)

You are right about every thing flowing to the overflow box with the correct adjustments to the flow inside the tank. That is where I would like to have more than a little wiggle room. I want to be able to adjust my flow in my DT to reduce dead spots over the need to direct the flow to the weir.

peppie
11/21/2011, 05:23 PM
I presume you're only moving the 1000gph going to the BeanAnimal through the coast-to-coast right? The closed-loop would have supply and return plumbed elsewhere?

So assuming you're using 1.5" plumbing and 1000gph you'd only need 19" of weir. Anything more than that wouldn't serve any particular purposes. I like the idea of the weir being in just on location in the tank so that you can "push" surface water toward it.

Are you planning a rimless? If not I'd be concerned about structural integrity as well.

The closed loop will have its own pump aprox 4000gph. Return pump will be aprox 1000 to 1500 gph and throttled back.

Not going rimless, Semi rimless. Tank will measure 48'' long 30'' wide 30'' tall
Glass will be 12mm with one 4-5'' center brace and all corners will have a brace.
From the feed back I have gotten so far I just might shorten the length of the weirs on the long sides to the half way mark of the tank. I would also like the weir to act as a fascia for the return lines.