Splitting return pump 4 ways ... can this work?

[LoJack]

I'm trying a new idea when I plumb this new tank I've started on.

The tank is 150 Gallons. 5x2x2.

Can I plumb my return pump this way? I'd like to tee it at the top of the tank, and then tee it again at each side to help increase flow into the tank. I hope the diagrams I made up show what I intend.

My goal is to have 4 outlets that are directing flow into the tank from the sump.

My return pump is a Reeflo Dart (max 3750 GPH)

http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u58/LoJack29/aquarium_plan_3_-_2.jpg

http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u58/LoJack29/diyglass.jpg

Please let me know if I need to clarify

[LoJack]

The pump won't be out of the stand ... it was just easier to label.

To clarify ... these aren't my photos. I modified them in paint just to show what I was trying to do ... my apologies if original owners get offended.

[TheFishTeen]

Yes, this absolutely will work. You could even add an Oceans Motions 4-Way, and you'll get really random and coral-loving flow.

[biecacka]

i don't see why it won't work. many ppl do this or something similar. i actuarially think its a good idea and wouldn't mind doing mine i just don't want to play with my plumbing right now
corey

[LoJack]

I have seen the wavemakers used on closed loops ... would a wave maker also work on your return pump?

I mean the principle is the same ... I just have never seen it ... so I figured there was a reason for that ...

[Mark Bianco]

That should work the only thing I would do is add small shutoff valves on the loc lines. If you do not add the valves the lines closest to the supply, in your case the two rear will flow more then the front two. That way you can balance the flow anyway you want.

Mark

[albano]

That should work the only thing I would do is add small shutoff valves on the loc lines. If you do not add the valves the lines closest to the supply, in your case the two rear will flow more then the front two. That way you can balance the flow anyway you want.

+1...you need ball valves

[LoJack]

Yes I definitely plan on putting ball valves in. My last sump was tee'd after the overflow ... needed the valves to prevent everything from going into just one side of the sump.

The intent is to also go from a 1.5" line at the pump outlet, and reduce to 1" at the tee at the top of the tank ... and then reduce again to 3/4" at the 4 outlets so that I can put either loc line fan attachements, or the flow increasers from aquacave, both of which are 3/4"

Sound like it should work?

[LoJack]

That should work the only thing I would do is add small shutoff valves on the loc lines. If you do not add the valves the lines closest to the supply, in your case the two rear will flow more then the front two. That way you can balance the flow anyway you want.

Mark

Yeah I seen some nice loc line ball valves that click in place and could control each outlet individually. This will work quite well I think

[needmore-reef]

those loc line ball valve work fine and will take up less space.

Also just a suggestion: make the T 1 1/2" and use 1 1/2 inch to 1 inch slip reducer bushings. That will put less head pressure on the pump. I would also use clear PVC glue to make things clean. Also, make sure you include a high quality ball valve and union at the inlet and outlet of your pump. worth the extra $$ IMO

[LoJack]

Nice point needmore-reef

I had a union and ball valve right after my return pump on my last set up. Made maintenance or switching out the pump a breeze.

If I have the ball valve there and use it to reduce the flow on my Reeflo Dart ... will it cause the pump to overheat and damage the pump ?

[1Sik1500]

Subscribed as, i have the same tank but only a Little giant pump. i would like to see how this works for you...

[matt9190]

Check out Melevs 400 build on reefaddict. Hey uses a scheme similar to this.

[LoJack]

Subscribed as, i have the same tank but only a Little giant pump. i would like to see how this works for you...

I will be starting a build thread at the beginning of the new year. I have the tank being built now, and I pick it up January 2nd and I'll begin the build thread for the 150 in wall project I'm undertaking.

Check out Melevs 400 build on reefaddict. Hey uses a scheme similar to this.

The only thing I'm worried about is that I have a 150 compared to his 400. The dart pushes 3600 GPH at 0 head (which I obviously will have more) so I'm just worried about moving too much water I guess.

[nemosworld]

You can safely dial back the output of the reeflo, it won't cause any damage to the pump, but only the output. You can also make a manifold that feed other things like reactors and fuge.

[geaux xman]

i'm guessing after 5ft overhead, the pump pushes 2500-2800gph. are you planning to drain that much thru your overflow?

[HowieB]

I have an Eheim 1262 on my 120 gallon going into 4 returns just like you show. Out of the pump the hose goes to a "Y" fitting splitting into 2 hoses. From there they go into the tank and split again into two each.

[jdm18honda]

i also have my returns like this and have found that the last elbow get the most flow

[LoJack]

i also have my returns like this and have found that the last elbow get the most flow

I will have small loc line ball valves on each outlet in order to try and get them as even as possible.

[LoJack]

i'm guessing after 5ft overhead, the pump pushes 2500-2800gph. are you planning to drain that much thru your overflow?

Yup ... and thats why I'm a little worried.

I'm using bean animal overflows as of right now (unless the plan changes)

So I'll have two drain pipes at 1.5" each flowing into a 2" pipe feeding the Dart.

The sump will be further away from the tank than usual just because its an inwall and the sump will be on the other side of the fishroom from the tank. That being said I'm guessing I'll have between 7-8 feet of head.

Still sound feasible?

[LoJack]

So I'll have two drain pipes at 1.5" each flowing into a 2" pipe feeding the Dart.



To clarify this ... I will have two 1.5" lines draining into the 150 gallon sump, and on the opposite end of the sump a 2" line will feed the dart lol.

[chamjack]

My set-up is very similiar to what you are asking. I have a 125g with a Bean style drain on a coast to coast overflow. All 3 lines are 1 1/2" to basement 125g sump. Its all pumped back to the first floor by a Gen-x PCx150 pump through a 1 1/2" return line. The Gen-x pump has a 1" inlet and outlet. I went to 1 1/2" on the output side to save on head loss. I wanted to get all I could out of the pump. I have the return line feed a 4 way manifold before it heads up to a 1" SCWD. The SCWD has unions on it so I can take it out to clean or replace if it does'nt do what I want. I ran 1" PVC lines inside the hood and have 3 outlets on each run from the SCWD. I used 1" 45 degree elbows(not glued) so I can direct the flow to different places if stuff is building up somewhere. The SCWD is switching the current over at about a minute and a half per side. So far, it seems to be working. I dont keep any SPS though. I attached a couple pics (phone sorry) to clarify. First is the returns in the tank. Next is a pic of the SCWD in the middle of the return. Last two are of the left and right side.