Our newest Goodie to "accent" your tank. L.A.B.s

[ReefLEDLights]

LED Accent Bars
L.A.B.s

Predrilled and Tapped for our BJB solderless connectors.

Wire routing holes

8/32 mounting holes on the side.


1.3" tall
1.813" wide
12" and 18" available and some 24" units.


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[Chernobyl]

Would like to get my hands on a pair of 24's. Any ETA?

[Big_Al]

Very Slick.

[Creetin]

Do you offer UV leds for this kit?? 403-420 NM

[ReefLEDLights]

Do you offer UV leds for this kit?? 403-420 NM

UVs are on the way along with a special BJB holder.

Personally I would not go below 410nm. Our current testing shows great colour like our D316 Premium Royal Blue.

They are a bit dimmer but we feel their use is best suited to excite certain pigments in SPS and make them look better.


Bill

[Creetin]

UVs are on the way along with a special BJB holder.

Personally I would not go below 410nm. Our current testing shows great colour like our D316 Premium Royal Blue.

They are a bit dimmer but we feel their use is best suited to excite certain pigments in SPS and make them look better.


Bill

Ill be looking to purchase a set when they do come in. Looking to suppliment my AI's with 2 strips of these. :)

[ReefLEDLights]

Ill be looking to purchase a set when they do come in. Looking to suppliment my AI's with 2 strips of these. :)

As soon as they are in we will announce it here and on FaceBook

Bill

[Creetin]

Maybe a mix of the premium royal blue and the uv? Going with 2-3 strips of this color mix.

[ReefLEDLights]

Creetin

That will definitely give you extra colour POP

Bill

[Creetin]

Thank you, i'll look out for them to come in.
I am tempted with vho again, But i am done with power hungry equipment. I am running my 300 gal on 925 watts max consumption and 350 watts of that is heater/s. Out of the 350w of heater only the 200 watter run's. The 150 is a back up for colder nights and the temp cannot be maintained by the 200 watter. So closer to 775w max and 475w when lights out with everything running normal.
Not shabby for a 300 gallon.

[ReefLEDLights]

Thank you, i'll look out for them to come in.
I am tempted with vho again, But i am done with power hungry equipment. I am running my 300 gal on 925 watts max consumption and 350 watts of that is heater/s. Out of the 350w of heater only the 200 watter run's. The 150 is a back up for colder nights and the temp cannot be maintained by the 200 watter. So closer to 775w max and 475w when lights out with everything running normal.
Not shabby for a 300 gallon.

Not Bad at all, my system is close to 35A total with everything on. Before LEDs it was closer to 50A total...Two 20 Amp dedicated circuits for MH only...Now my lighting is 25A with everything full including fans...The nice thing about a controller is everything is on full for only four hours a day then it naturally drops off then rises the next day.

I'm use a pair of 200 watt heaters on my set up one for my 330 SPS the other for my 570 Mixed.

The groovy thing about a sump room is I have a small ceramic Home Depot heater (5A) heating the room controlled by my APEX using seasonal temps. I rarely notice the heater on. My 200 watters rarely come on. If you can do a sump room the advantages are great...Pumps also add heat but its confined to the room which helps in the winter.

If you really want 420 NM VHO & T5 is still competitive, but only if you have the equipment...LED drivers are much less expensive than an IceCap 440 so for a new set up LEDs are the way to go. Simple Watt per PAR comparison. The problem with T5 and VHO is the bulb replacement and heat. Its expensive over a couple of years but the heat helps in the winter.

The UVs we tested are a decent replacement for T5 and VHO 420nm without the hassle of adding bulbs to your fixture. We will list these soon.

Bill