cet98’s DIY AquaStyle LED Build Project: A Photo Essay

[cet98]

well… here it is, yet another DIY AquaStyleOnline.com LED build :p
after reading an endless amount of DIY LED builds over the years, I had made the decision to give it a try.

FWIW, my desire to switch to LEDs was more based on “can I do it” as opposed to “I need to do it” so I decided to attempt this build with an attempt to keep my costs low in the event I didn’t like to finished product.

It should also be known that I am lighting a softy tank dominated by mushroom corals with a couple of BTAs and a few small frags of medium light requiring encrusting montipora . This LED fixture would be replacing a 4x24W Sun Blaze T5 fixture. In fact, this fixture would be gutted and the LED fixture would be retro fitted inside it’s housing…

So here it is…

First, list of components:
24" Sun Blaze T fixture - Gutted
(26) Bridgelux 3W Royal Blues
(10) Bridgelux 3W 4500K Whites
(4) Bridgelux 3W 6500K Whites
(4) Bridgelux 3W 10000K Whites
(36) 80 degree optics (diffused face)
(8) 90 degree optics (clear face)
(3) Meanwell ELN 60-48D drivers
(1) 18cm X 2.2cm X 40cm (7.1"X0.9"X15.8") Black Anodized Aluminum Heatsink with hanging kit
(3) 10K ohm potentiometers
(1) 1.75g tube Arctic Alumina Premium Ceramic Polysynthetic Thermal Compound
45 ft. 18 AWG black stranded wire
(100) 3/8” 4-40 stainless steel machine screws
(100) #4 nylon washers
2.5 oz. 60/40 Rosin Core solder
(1) Radio Shack 8-Position European-Style Terminal Strip
(1) Radio Shack Size M Panel-mount Coaxial DC Power Jack
(1) Radio Shack Size M Coaxial DC Power Plug (2 pack)
(4) NTE In-line 5x20mm fuse holders
(4) 1.0A 250V 5x20mm Fast-Acting glass fuses
(1) 140mm Deep Cool Ultra Silent DC fan
(1) AC/DC 12V 1A adaptor
(1) Enercell 9V/300mA AC Adapter
18 ft. 18-2 insulated power cord
(1) 10"L x 2.5"H x 8"W Christmas cookie tin
(1) aerosol can Krylon Fusion Satin Black paint
1/8” thick Clear Acrylic shield 9”W x 23”L
Miscellaneous (rubber grommets, machine screws, nuts, washers, zip ties, adhesive tie mounting pads, mini adhesive wire clips)

Second, list of building tools/equipment used:
Bench top 10” Drill press
General Tools Automatic Center Punch
Craftsman 14.4V Cordless hand drill
Velleman 25W Soldering Iron
Velleman Helping Hands with Magnifying glass
8oz. can WD-40 Lubricant
#4 Tap and Ridgid Cobalt Drill bit
Craftsman Adjustable Circle cutter
Vermont American T-Handle Tap Wrench #0 - 1/4"
Gardner Bender 19 Range/7Function Digital Multimeter

So now, on to the build…

I ordered my AquaStyleOnline.com kit with Ray via emails and PayPal due to customizing my kit. A pleasant few email communications turned to an order which shipped and delivered from Hong Kong to IL in 4 days :)
Everything was packaged nicely and no damage occured.
(FYI, there are some items that came with the kit that I chose to not use, such as the fan and the power cords from his kit)

http://i730.photobucket.com/albums/ww309/cet98/AquaStyle%20DIY%20LED%20build/IMAG0137.jpg

http://i730.photobucket.com/albums/ww309/cet98/AquaStyle%20DIY%20LED%20build/IMAG0157.jpg

http://i730.photobucket.com/albums/ww309/cet98/AquaStyle%20DIY%20LED%20build/IMAG0159.jpg

http://i730.photobucket.com/albums/ww309/cet98/AquaStyle%20DIY%20LED%20build/IMAG0200.jpg

http://i730.photobucket.com/albums/ww309/cet98/AquaStyle%20DIY%20LED%20build/IMAG0204.jpg

After finalizing my LED and wiring diagram I decided to go all out and drill and tap my heatsink. With that, I printed out my LED star drilling pattern and tapped it down like a “glove” on the face of the heatsink and proceeded to “punch” my drilling holes in preparation of drilling.

http://i730.photobucket.com/albums/ww309/cet98/AquaStyle%20DIY%20LED%20build/IMAG0223.jpg

http://i730.photobucket.com/albums/ww309/cet98/AquaStyle%20DIY%20LED%20build/IMAG0241.jpg

[cet98]

Drilled and tapped the heatsink…timely and tedious, but IMO, well worth it :)

http://i730.photobucket.com/albums/ww309/cet98/AquaStyle%20DIY%20LED%20build/IMAG0246.jpg

http://i730.photobucket.com/albums/ww309/cet98/AquaStyle%20DIY%20LED%20build/IMAG0245.jpg

http://i730.photobucket.com/albums/ww309/cet98/AquaStyle%20DIY%20LED%20build/IMAG0259.jpg

Pre-tinned my LEDs and the wire strands I cut to size based on my layout

http://i730.photobucket.com/albums/ww309/cet98/AquaStyle%20DIY%20LED%20build/IMAG0307.jpg

http://i730.photobucket.com/albums/ww309/cet98/AquaStyle%20DIY%20LED%20build/IMAG0339.jpg

http://i730.photobucket.com/albums/ww309/cet98/AquaStyle%20DIY%20LED%20build/IMAG0344.jpg

[cet98]

Applied thermal compound and screwed stars in place…

http://i730.photobucket.com/albums/ww309/cet98/AquaStyle%20DIY%20LED%20build/IMAG0327.jpg

http://i730.photobucket.com/albums/ww309/cet98/AquaStyle%20DIY%20LED%20build/IMAG0319.jpg

http://i730.photobucket.com/albums/ww309/cet98/AquaStyle%20DIY%20LED%20build/IMAG0320.jpg

http://i730.photobucket.com/albums/ww309/cet98/AquaStyle%20DIY%20LED%20build/IMAG0321.jpg

http://i730.photobucket.com/albums/ww309/cet98/AquaStyle%20DIY%20LED%20build/IMAG0324.jpg

http://i730.photobucket.com/albums/ww309/cet98/AquaStyle%20DIY%20LED%20build/IMAG0330.jpg

Began soldering the wiring beginning with two parallel strings of 13 RBs…

http://i730.photobucket.com/albums/ww309/cet98/AquaStyle%20DIY%20LED%20build/IMAG0345.jpg

http://i730.photobucket.com/albums/ww309/cet98/AquaStyle%20DIY%20LED%20build/IMAG0369.jpg

[cet98]

Then a string of ten 4500K Neutral Whites…

http://i730.photobucket.com/albums/ww309/cet98/AquaStyle%20DIY%20LED%20build/IMAG0346.jpg

http://i730.photobucket.com/albums/ww309/cet98/AquaStyle%20DIY%20LED%20build/IMAG0358.jpg

And finished with the final string that included four 6500K and four 10000K Cool Whites

http://i730.photobucket.com/albums/ww309/cet98/AquaStyle%20DIY%20LED%20build/IMAG0359.jpg

Adjusted the driver for the RB LEDs to 1300mA as both strings in parallel will be running at 650mA each

http://i730.photobucket.com/albums/ww309/cet98/AquaStyle%20DIY%20LED%20build/IMAG0368.jpg

Then adjusted each of the drivers for the Whites to 700mA

http://i730.photobucket.com/albums/ww309/cet98/AquaStyle%20DIY%20LED%20build/IMAG0360.jpg

Now came time for the retro fitting of the heatsink and LEDs into the gutted Sun Blaze fixture. This involved gutting of course (LOL) and then drilling holes for mounting screws designed to install the fan, heatsink and acrylic shield. As well as the hole for the 140mm fan itself…
http://i730.photobucket.com/albums/ww309/cet98/AquaStyle%20DIY%20LED%20build/IMAG0395.jpg

http://i730.photobucket.com/albums/ww309/cet98/AquaStyle%20DIY%20LED%20build/IMAG0396.jpg

http://i730.photobucket.com/albums/ww309/cet98/AquaStyle%20DIY%20LED%20build/IMAG0397.jpg

http://i730.photobucket.com/albums/ww309/cet98/AquaStyle%20DIY%20LED%20build/IMAG0400.jpg

[cet98]

Mounted the fan in place first, followed by the heatsink. Next came the final wiring of the fixture to the drivers. I cut the Radio Shack 8-Position European-Style Terminal Strip in half and mounted each half using double sided foam tape, one on the front side and the other on the rear side of the fixture. This enabled me to have two smaller runs of wiring along the sides and kept the wiring less cluttered. I then re-wired the in-line fuses using 18AWG stranded wire so that there were no unnecessary splices in the wiring runs.
I used the adhesive clips and tie-down pads to hold the wiring neatly in place and along the sides of the enclosure and away from the heatsink.
Installed some grommets into some of the existing holes to eliminate any chance of fraying the power cords.

http://i730.photobucket.com/albums/ww309/cet98/AquaStyle%20DIY%20LED%20build/IMAG0399.jpg

http://i730.photobucket.com/albums/ww309/cet98/AquaStyle%20DIY%20LED%20build/IMAG0402.jpg

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http://i730.photobucket.com/albums/ww309/cet98/AquaStyle%20DIY%20LED%20build/IMAG0417.jpg

Then came the “driver box”…Came across a cheap ($4) Christmas cookie tin at Target and began the task of painting, drilling holes for power cords and pots. Then came the fun part…wiring everything in a small box is a bit more challenging than I hoped for…
FWIW, I will NEVER use a tin again…way too thin and flimsy :( but never the less, I used it cause I bought it and was spending way too much time and energy looking for something the right size without being overly monstrous….
http://i730.photobucket.com/albums/ww309/cet98/AquaStyle%20DIY%20LED%20build/IMAG0433.jpg

http://i730.photobucket.com/albums/ww309/cet98/AquaStyle%20DIY%20LED%20build/IMAG0442.jpg

[cet98]

Finished the driver box off with grommets for the power cords. Soldered up, wired and installed the power jack and attached the power plug to the Enercell 9V AC adaptor and installed the pot and attached the knobs.

http://i730.photobucket.com/albums/ww309/cet98/AquaStyle%20DIY%20LED%20build/IMAG0485.jpg

http://i730.photobucket.com/albums/ww309/cet98/AquaStyle%20DIY%20LED%20build/IMAG0486.jpg

http://i730.photobucket.com/albums/ww309/cet98/AquaStyle%20DIY%20LED%20build/IMAG0487.jpg

Drilled the four mounting bolt holes for the acrylic shield and installed it…

http://i730.photobucket.com/albums/ww309/cet98/AquaStyle%20DIY%20LED%20build/IMAG0411.jpg

http://i730.photobucket.com/albums/ww309/cet98/AquaStyle%20DIY%20LED%20build/IMAG0416-1.jpg

Then…time to fire it up....and….wah lah!!!!

http://i730.photobucket.com/albums/ww309/cet98/AquaStyle%20DIY%20LED%20build/IMAG0434.jpg

Then I attached the heatsink hanging kit that AquaStyle supplied and it worked perfectly for my needs :)

http://i730.photobucket.com/albums/ww309/cet98/AquaStyle%20DIY%20LED%20build/IMAG0468.jpg

http://i730.photobucket.com/albums/ww309/cet98/AquaStyle%20DIY%20LED%20build/IMAG0477.jpg

So there it is…My first time DIY LED build. I must admit that I am very pleased with the overall outcome and feel a huge sense of accomplishment

Now I have the pleasure of playing with the overall color spectrum…not an easy task as I know it will take time for the corals to adjust to the light and I know their coloring will alter as well…

Thanks for lookin’

C :cool:

[Rybren]

Nice work!

[cet98]

Nice work!why thank you! :D
I must admit that being the OCD person that I am, the amount of "road trips" to the hardware store(s) had gotten to point of being ridiculous with all the "mental revisions" that had taken place throughout this build...but all in all I am really happy how it came out in the end :thumbsup:

[radicaltimes]

Nice build, but how about a shot of the aquarium so we can see what the lighting looks like.

[Misenplace101]

Looking good buddy. I'll be contacting you after the year for suggestions and ideas.

[cet98]

Nice build, but how about a shot of the aquarium so we can see what the lighting looks like.will do...I'll take some pix tomorrow but as we all know taking pix of lighting is nothing short of "lacking" with regards to what it actually looks like... :p

Looking good buddy. I'll be contacting you after the year for suggestions and ideas.you gots my number my friend....your call is always welcomed ;) .... talk "next year" :lol:

[00Warpig00]

Very Nice

Nick

[skunkmere]

Congrats on the Pro build. it looks super clean. can you make the shield sit inside the fixture? or is that to let more air in?

[dohc97]

Nice build, much better than anything i would come up with, im not into details as much ;)

By the way i like your avatar, did your kids have something to do with that?

[dohc97]

Congrats on the Pro build. it looks super clean. can you make the shield sit inside the fixture? or is that to let more air in?

Abel you should not have said that, now Craig is not going to sleep until he figures out a way to make it flush, puts it in a wind tunnel and tweaks to have a Drag coefficient of .26 :hmm5:

[cet98]

Very Nice

Nickthank you sir....remember ur always welcomed to stop by :)

Congrats on the Pro build. it looks super clean. can you make the shield sit inside the fixture? or is that to let more air in?thanks skunk...could not have done this one without you...you're the tru rockstar on this build...Shield is within 1/4" of the optics so closer is not an option....with that said, the open sides DOES greatly aid in airflow...

Abel you should not have said that, now Craig is not going to sleep until he figures out a way to make it flush, puts it in a wind tunnel and tweaks to have a Drag coefficient of .26 :hmm5: LMAO...!!!!! you know me OH TOO WELL!!!.....huge thanks to you too bud...you too helped me get this baby up and running :thumbsup:...next up, your LED actinics ;)

[cet98]

By the way i like your avatar, did your kids have something to do with that? no...my wife :o

[nemosworld]

Fantastic build, very clean, Love it!

[pwreef]

I see 26 RBs wired in series with one mis-wired. :-)

[cet98]

Fantastic build, very clean, Love it!
thank you my good man ;)

I see 26 RBs wired in series with one mis-wired. :-)actually I believe your seeing an incomplete wiring photo...my apologies...
this is what the final wiring looked like when I completed the build:

http://i730.photobucket.com/albums/ww309/cet98/AquaStyle%20DIY%20LED%20build/IMAG0346-1.jpg

Hope that clarifies it more...unless of course you are referring to something else that I am not picking up on and in that case, please LMK...thank you :)

[crooks]

This turned out ALOT better then I thought it was going to.

[cet98]

did my best to try and capture as true a color sample of the tank and corals as possible but camera picks up way more blue than there really is so I adjusted them to as close as reality as I could...

here ya go...

FTS:

http://i730.photobucket.com/albums/ww309/cet98/IMAG04822.jpg

http://i730.photobucket.com/albums/ww309/cet98/IMAG04812.jpg

[cet98]

http://i730.photobucket.com/albums/ww309/cet98/IMG_02022.jpg

http://i730.photobucket.com/albums/ww309/cet98/IMG_02112.jpg

http://i730.photobucket.com/albums/ww309/cet98/IMG_02102.jpg

[cet98]

http://i730.photobucket.com/albums/ww309/cet98/IMG_02052.jpg

http://i730.photobucket.com/albums/ww309/cet98/IMG_02032.jpg

http://i730.photobucket.com/albums/ww309/cet98/IMG_01962.jpg

http://i730.photobucket.com/albums/ww309/cet98/IMG_01942.jpg

[widmer]

What's up with the awesome builds I'm seeing on RC today. Excellent work. I know what you mean with the flimsy tin idea - A few years ago I had built a halide fixture and found a tin that the ballast fit into perfectly. Only problem: the magnetic flux caused the flimsy metal on the tin to make the most gawd-offal humming noise...

Great looking mushrooms too btw.

[cet98]

thank you Widmer :) you are very kind!!!
It can be very challenging to find the right parts when you have an "idea" of what you want in your head but no clue about how to "achieve" it :lol:

and thanks again, I do love me some shrooms....just can't get enough of them :p

[skidder84]

I will take 2 please...

[jmurr8484]

How good are those LEDs?

[cet98]

so far I am really liking them :thumbsup:
Corals seem to be responding nicely and color IMO is def to my liking...
I will take some par readings sometime next week and post them, after the Christmas "rush" of course :lol:

[Dirrk]

does the fan exhaust down thru the side vents and around the splash shield? That would be good from a moisture control standpoint. I saw that you used un-tinned, stranded copper wire, so keeping the moisture out of the fixture will help minimize corrosion (IMHO). very nice build. What's up with cellblock A and cellblock B? somebody not playing nice?

[cet98]

yes Dirrk...you are correct :)
fan air flow is directed down onto the heatsink and pushes air "out" on all sides including around the acrylic shield...
the "cell blocks" as you describe them :lol: were created to allow for two pairs of Snowflake ocellaris clowns because I was unable (or better yet, unwilling ;)) to select only one pair...:p

you can check out my build here if you'd like:
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2036389

thanks!
C :cool:

[MADtanks]

Bravo bud, very well executed! Drilling is certanily the way to go man, have the freedom and ability to upgrade down the road, or replace a burnt diod.

[maxxII]

Very nice build. Very clean, and professional looking.

What degree of spread are those optics?

Nick

[cet98]

Bravo bud, very well executed! Drilling is certanily the way to go man, have the freedom and ability to upgrade down the road, or replace a burnt diod.

Very nice build. Very clean, and professional looking.

What degree of spread are those optics?

Nick

thanks fellas :D

Nick, I used both 80 & 90 degree optics... :cool:

[maxxII]

Gotcha.

There are really two reasons I can think of to do a DIY build like this:

1...Save money over store bought items of a similar nature

or

2....Build something custom because store bought items of a similar nature dont fit your needs.

So.....I hate to do this, but.........

How much do you have invested in this kit, not including time spent building it? I only ask because I've looked at LED lighting but havent yet pulled the trigger due to cost. I've also looked at some DIY kits from Rapid LED and seen that I could save some money on a larger kit, but not enough yet to justify spending the money and going completely over to LED's from MH's.

I hope this didnt come off as rude. I realize it is a major faux pas to ask how much something cost, but in a DIY build like this, where savings over store bought items can be significant, I think its a relevant question.

If you disagree, then I apologize for the lack of manners in asking.

Regardless, its an impressive build and you did a beautiful job in documenting what you did and why.

Nick

[kcress]

cet98; Nice build! I'm a little concerned about the ELNs boxed up in a sealed box. They need air moving around them as they aren't 100% efficient. That means they give off heat. Have you got any idea how hot they're running in there?

You should yank the lid off after they've been running for a few hours and feel them to see if they're hot. Aging of their innards doubles every 10 degrees.



maxxII; We've gone over cost around here many times. Run RC's excellent search engine on the DIY forum-anytime-cost, payback, LED-show posts. You should be able to find a few of the discussions.

Generally a 12 to 18month payback is found over MH and about 16 to 24 months over Twhatevers.

[maxxII]

Good info Kcress...

Is the time to payback based on Store Bought, or DIY LED's?

Nick

[cet98]

thank you kcress....coming from you that means alot :)
regarding the drivers, I was very concerned as well about the heat issues with them being enclosed in the box and thought I would need to mount a fan on the box, but surprisingly (and I hope this does not mean I did something wrong) the drivers have not gotten very hot at all...rather they are warm to the touch and so I have not entertained adding a fan due to the low heat...Is there something I am missing that would result in a warm running driver versus a hot one?...

Nick...no apologies necessary bud...all questions are welcomed :D
as for my overall costs I would really have to sit down and add it all up. (and quite frankly I'm not sure I really want to know right now :lol:)
If I had to guess, keeping in mind that I had to buy tools (some of which I may or may not use again) and used some exisiting items (ie: Sun Blaze T5 fixture and acrylic shield) so my fixture costs would be unique to my build in this case, I would probably put the overall cost somewhere between $350-$450 range...again, I'm just guesstimating here :p

HTH :cool:

BTW, there IS one other reason to do DIY over store bought (and this was my main motivating factor)...."Accomplishment"
I felt (and still feel) a strong sense of accomplishment in having produced a fixture in "my own image" and although I know it is in no way the very best, I do know that I made it and that to me is "priceless"... :thumbsup:

[AD87]

How high did you mount your fixture off the water line?

Also hows the spead from end to end of your tank? I noticed you opted for one heatsink instead of doing two.

Thanks

[maxxII]

thank you kcress....coming from you that means alot :)
regarding the drivers, I was very concerned as well about the heat issues with them being enclosed in the box and thought I would need to mount a fan on the box, but surprisingly (and I hope this does not mean I did something wrong) the drivers have not gotten very hot at all...rather they are warm to the touch and so I have not entertained adding a fan due to the low heat...Is there something I am missing that would result in a warm running driver versus a hot one?...

Nick...no apologies necessary bud...all questions are welcomed :D
as for my overall costs I would really have to sit down and add it all up. (and quite frankly I'm not sure I really want to know right now :lol:)
If I had to guess, keeping in mind that I had to buy tools (some of which I may or may not use again) and used some exisiting items (ie: Sun Blaze T5 fixture and acrylic shield) so my fixture costs would be unique to my build in this case, I would probably put the overall cost somewhere between $350-$450 range...again, I'm just guesstimating here :p

HTH :cool:

BTW, there IS one other reason to do DIY over store bought (and this was my main motivating factor)...."Accomplishment"
I felt (and still feel) a strong sense of accomplishment in having produced a fixture in "my own image" and although I know it is in no way the very best, I do know that I made it and that to me is "priceless"... :thumbsup:

I agree completely with the sense of accomplishment one gets from DIY'ing something difficult and time consuming with as much attention to detail as you've shown here. I didnt list it as one of the reasons for DIY'ing something like this since I view that as a bonus as opposed to a reason for doing it. Obviously, that's extremely subjective.

I appreciate the candor in explaining about how much you have invested in this, as I said, I think something like this its important to take into consideration, vs a tank build or something exotic like a lifting scissor jack style stand for your aquarium that is built into a former fireplace...

Regardless, its very good work and nice clean build. And as you pointed out, you got some high praise from someone who can and does build some very difficult one off stuff for his system....:thumbsup:

Nick

[cet98]

Tony...I currently have the fixture 8" above the waterline. Spread is "acceptable" but wouldn't mind a bit more on the sides ;)
However, considering that I have a softy tank, I do benefit from having some corals that prefer less light...

I did one heatsink based on two reasons:
1) Being I was retro-fitting this into my Sun Blaze T5 fixture, I was limited to the overall size of any heatsink(s) and needed to allow sufficent space as well for wiring, connectors, fuses and mounting bolts.
2) While I could have bought a larger (single) heatsink in lieu of the one I purchased, AquaStyles' heatsinks are less than 1" high and I wanted to keep as much of the fixture inside the enclosure as possible. With only 2-1/4" of height inside the Sun Blaze and with the fan being 1" high, there wasn't much room left for real estate. :p
Their largest heatsink (7.1"X0.9"X15.8") at the time was also, IMO, by far the most cost effective...since then, however, they have added a larger heatsink (7.7"X0.9"X19.8") that I would have done if only it were available then...

Either way, I am pleased with the overall completed project...


Nick...thank you again sir...you are very kind :)


Well, today I am going to take some PAR readings and see what I come up with...Wish me luck...! :lol:

[maxxII]

Dont be surprised when you come up with low par numbers. The sensor doesnt read blue spectrum lights very well and skews accordingly. Therefore, lights with predominantly bluer spectrums register lower PAR values than are useable.

One way to give a baseline would be to take PAR readings from another similarly "colored" LED light. IE, if someone in your club or nearby has a AI module with a similar ratio of blues/RB's/White LED's to measure and compare it to....

Nick

[sahin]

This is one of the more impressive LED builds. Great workmanship! Well done. :)

[cet98]

This is one of the more impressive LED builds. Great workmanship! Well done. :)why thank you my friend :)

[cet98]

OK...so here it is...

Disclaimer: In no way shape or form is this a scientific test/result. These are "as close as possible" readings using an Apogee Quantum Meter #QMSS-E and as we all know (or should know), as maxxII has already pointed out, PAR readings of LEDs in the "blue" spectrum are inaccurate at best. According to Apogee Instruments, Inc. the readings of Blue/Royal Blue LEDs can be approx. 20-25% higher than detected by their meters. So use this info for what its worth to you :p

PAR readings are taken with the following conditions in place:
1) RBs set at approx. 70%
2) NWs (4500K) set at approx. 50%
3) CWs (6500K & 10000K) set at approx. 60%
4) 80* optics on all but 8 of the 26 RBs and 90* optics on the remaining RBs
5) 80* optics have a "diffused" or "dimpled" face as opposed to the polished clear face of the 90* optics
6) due to the existing rockwork, most of the readings are taken from the center (front to back) of the tank as that was the only real location available for the probe to be placed level (well....mostly level :lol:)

now on to the numbers:

http://i730.photobucket.com/albums/ww309/cet98/AquaStyle%20DIY%20LED%20build/LEDPARreadings122911.jpg

What I found interesting was the outside readings...as you can likely tell from the photo is that the optics do not allow for much light on the sides...as the light measurements are taken lower into the tank, the readings actually "increase" based on the reduced shadowing effect of the optics reach as it relates to the sides of the tank...

anyhow...not too shabby I guess, huh?....

LMK what everyone thinks please :)

[maxxII]

Very impressive!
Any how much would the numbers jump up using the 20/25% adjustment based on the blue LED's?

Nick

[sahin]

Nothing shabby about those numbers. You are not running 100% power, so those readings are very good. 100 PAR is good enough for SPS, so 150 on the sandbed is really good.

Here is my DIY LED/T5 with PAR readings:

PAR measurements of my ATI Sunpower HYBRID 5x24watt T5 and 24 Cree LED's @ 700mA (approx 60watts). 20 of the LED's have 80degree lens, the remaining 4 have 60degree lens.

The tank is 18" tall, 30" long and 20" front to back. The water height is 16" from top of sand to water surface.

http://i685.photobucket.com/albums/vv217/Sahin_UK/DSC_9719.jpg

Some notes about the various numbers:

1. PAR measurements were made using the Apogee MQ-200 PAR Quantum meter. This meter underreads the PAR from narrow spectrum LED's (mainly in the blue section) by around 10-20%, so my PAR levels are probably a fair bit higher.

2. The T5 tubes, bar the actinic tube, are about 5 months old. When I put in new tubes I expect the PAR levels to increase slightly.

3. The light unit is suspended 7.5" above the waters surface. If I mount it lower, PAR levels get too high causing bleaching due to photoinhibition.

4. Numbers in RED are PAR readings on the SAND. The 175, 265,175 are right against the FRONT glass. 175's are in the extreme corners. The 390-A is the PAR in the centre of the tank on the sand bed.

5. PAR levels 1" below the unit are in excess of 2500!!!

6. PAR numbers just below the surface of the water is around 1100!

I am extremely impressed with this light modification. Since the purchase of the PAR meter, I have been looking at various PAR measurements carried out by other hobbyists and it appears that the PAR levels are in similar range to 400watt halide systems. All in all, I am very happy with the PAR levels and the possibility of supplying very good spectral quality via the use of various T5 tube combinations.

The unit has the following T5 Tubes/LED front to back:

Front:
ATI Blue+
ATI AquaBlue Special
Cree XR-E LED's: 20 x Royal Blue + 4 x Blue
KZ FijiPink
Arcadia 420nm 03 Actinic
ATI Blue+

Not content with modding my ATI Sunpower with high power LED's I decided to add LED "moonlights" as well:
http://i685.photobucket.com/albums/vv217/Sahin_UK/DSC_5806.jpg

[cet98]

Very impressive!
Any how much would the numbers jump up using the 20/25% adjustment based on the blue LED's?

Nick not sure how the overall PAR readings would be effected as only the blue spectrum is misread and there is no way to isolate that spectrum within the white LEDs...

[cet98]

thank you sahin :)
apparently, under the circumstances, my 132W fixture (running below 100%) is somewhat comparable to your 192W T5/LED combo fixture (running at 100% or there abouts?) :D
you do, of course, have much better light distribution...

BTW, you have a beautiful tank my friend... :thumbsup:

[maxxII]

not sure how the overall PAR readings would be effected as only the blue spectrum is misread and there is no way to isolate that spectrum within the white LEDs...

How about turning off the blues, and taking readings under just the whites, then turning off the whites, and taking readings under the blues only, and adding 20-25% of the number to the numbers with the blues. Then adding the numbers together?

That wont be precise since as you noted, the blue spectrum of the whites cannot be isolated and measured, but it should get you closer to the real numbers than where you're at now.

Of course, this is an awful lot of work just appease some other goofballs on the internet who happen to be giant nerds too.....

:beer:

Nick

[crooks]

He is all about pleasing others so that wont be a problem.

Your bta on the right looks to be in a good spot. good thing your to scared to move it.

[dnejdl]

i must say very nice tank and led setup , thxs for all the info on your build now wish me luck as i put both feet into this hobby , lol.

[maxxII]

Its been a little over a month now. How's everything holding up?

Everything still growing well?

Nick

[cet98]

Well, since you asked Nick.... ;)

believe it or not, fixture has actually "over exceeded" my expectations and requirements...:hmm1:

About two weeks ago I noticed that my mushrooms were starting to shrink up and lose some of their color...
I removed all the optics and reduced the drivers to approx. 35% power and slowly but surely they have all started to come back...wheeew....:thumbsup:

I can honestly say that this unit is definitely an SPS fixture and is entirely too much for my needs...being dimmed to 35% does not offer enough "brightness" for my liking :(

However, I will give it a bit more time before I make a final decision whether or not to go back to T5s...

[maxxII]

Can you put the optics back in and leave the unit dimmed to 35%,(or dim it further to 25%)?
If so, I would suggest doing so and slowly raising the intensity levels up once everything has had a chance to acclimate. Maybe leave the optics in at 25% for a month. Then begin to raise the intensity 5% every two weeks or so until you hit a level where the tank is bright enough to satisfy you.

Nick

[skunkmere]

I agree, i think its a acclimation issue. try raising the level very slowly over months.

[cet98]

yeah....I did start them low (intensity) and high (mounted) and felt I acclimated them slowly but as I increased the intensity they did not respond well....
when I backed them off and removed the optics is when them started coming back....
I feel that I underestimated the intensity of these Bridgelux and in turn installed too many (44) for my needs...

[cet98]

offically for sale now:

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2130017

[maxxII]

Sent you a PM about the fixture.

Nick

[maxxII]

Craig,
What are these two stony corals?

http://i730.photobucket.com/albums/ww309/cet98/IMG_02022.jpg

I know the larger of the two is actually an LPS, but cant remember the name. They're gorgeous!

Nick

[cet98]

they're both SPS ;)

the big pink one is branching cyphastrea...the small greenish/blue one...dunno :(