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Sandia97
01/15/2012, 03:36 PM
I didn't start things the right way (no QT) and now I have myself a little situation! I set up my 75g tank, let it cycle and then slowly started stocking it. All was hunky dory until I added this little tang who after a few days got Ich :/
I went right out and got a 20g QT tank, heater, filter, pvc pipe and some Coppersafe. I set it up, filled it with water from my DT, put the Coppersafe in it and popped the tang in there before my other fish could get sick. Now I'm worried my tang will die since the tank isn't cycled and all. I added this stuff calle BIO-Spira which is supposed to prevent new tank syndrome and I know water changes will help but I'm not supposed to do them when I have the copper in there right? Should I do them and add some coppersafe with each change? Or add a damsel in there?

MuffsAbby
01/15/2012, 05:31 PM
Keep an eye on ammonia levels and do water changes as necessary to keep ammonia to safe levels. You can do water changes with Coppersafe, but you would add coppersafe with each change to maintain the dosage. Don't add a damsel.

Also, if you want to eliminate ich, you need to QT all of the fish that are currently in your DT (not just the tang), and leave your DT fallow (no fish) for at least 9 weeks.

stingythingy45
01/15/2012, 05:38 PM
The tang didn't catch Ich,it had it all along.Or one of the other fish you had in the tank was a carrior.Like mentioned,all fish need to be QTed now and treated as the WHOLE tank other than iverts is infected.
Also the tank will need to remain fishless for several weeks for the cryptocaryon to go through a hatch and destroy cycle.
Sorry for the bad news.

Sandia97
01/15/2012, 05:45 PM
Ugh! Well I'm treating the DT with an herbal "reef safe" treatment. Is that good enough ya think??

phillyfishguy
01/15/2012, 08:07 PM
To the best of my knowledge no reef safe herbal stuff works...The best thing you can do is leave your tank empty without fish for 8 weeks. You can read the sticky on this forum. I wouldn't add anything to my display but thats just me.

DrBegalke
01/15/2012, 08:33 PM
The only sure way is it QT all fish and leave the display without fish.

You have to be really strict with QT from here on out as well, as its easy to introduce ich even when adding a coral to the tank, etc.

f3honda4me
01/15/2012, 09:33 PM
As a newbie who has read more threads and info here than I can remember or count, you're getting great advice IMO. You have to clear your DT of all fish and put them in quarantine and treat them all. And the DT has to go fishless for 9 weeks so the ich can die off.

As I started this hobby I spent over $1000 on my 75G DT setup, buying a used tank/stand, etc to save where I could. But I still went to petco and spent $40 on a 20G QT tank, heater, filter, and some PVC. Best $40 I'll spend I bet. :)

Though I'm actually upgrading the filter now to a Finnex canister ($40 amazon) so I can just run carbon in a bag, or any other items I might want to run as well in a mesh bag. Easy to clean often since the tank is uncycled, plus provides great flow/aeration in the QT via the return!

Sandia97
01/15/2012, 11:00 PM
Ok thanks for the advice, guess I learned my lesson the hard way! One more question..should I get yet ANOTHER QT tank since I'm guessing I shouldn't have all 8 fish in a 20g? How many can be in one tank? I have-
2 ocellaris clown
1 foxface lo (how do I catch this venemous guy!?)
3 blue green chromis
1 sleeper banded goby
1 blue tang (which I'm considering giving away, if he survives, since I read about the appropriate tank sizes on this site. My fish guy steers me wrong again!)

bugs713
01/15/2012, 11:05 PM
I've been dealing with ich for about 40 days, actually longer but all fish have been in a 20L QT for 40 days with another 40 days to go before they get to go home to the DT.

I treated with Coppersafe for the first 35 days, then ran carbon to help remove it. From day one of the QT/Hospital tank, I did and still do 20% water changes every other day to keep the ammonia down to safe levels. I have been running a Rena canister
filter with only filter pads for the muck , no carbon until the copper treatment was finished. The return from the filter is pointed at the surface for great agitation so I don't need an air stone.

BTW, after every water change, I had to test the copper level and add more Coppersafe to the the appropriate level - too much, fish die, too little, ich survives. When using copper it is a MUST to test the levels almost daily!

FYI: All equipment used with copper cannot be used with anything that has or will have inverts, snails, crabs corals etc. - I now have a dedicated copper filter, nets, tank, siphon vac, tubing, buckets etc. that will never be used for anything else.

All fish doing great; Cherub Angle, Swallow Tail angel, Copper band Butterfly and two Oc Clowns.
The price I paid for not quarantining in the first place - never again, lesson learned!
Good luck!

phillyfishguy
01/16/2012, 06:26 AM
I would get the fish out you can right away. The foxface and blue tang are the tuff ones.

snorvich
01/16/2012, 06:33 AM
Ugh! Well I'm treating the DT with an herbal "reef safe" treatment. Is that good enough ya think??

No. Please read the ich stickies.

snorvich
01/16/2012, 06:34 AM
If you are using copper, test daily (before lights out) as a minimum.