View Full Version : 125 gallon reef build up
psychorugby
01/24/2012, 09:44 AM
I've been a member/lurker here for the better part of a decade and I can't recall if I have ever posted. I know I have drooled over numerous tanks here over the years.
My 125 gallon has sat empty for the better part of five years and it is about time to fill it back up. Previously, I used whatever parts I could scavenge from other tanks because of cost and being a college student. That means that a lot of my equipment is not really to the level it should be and I aim to fix that this time around.
At this point, I need to build a stand, canopy, and a side cabinet to hide filtration for the tank. I know exactly how I want the stand and canopy to look, but is proving difficult to flesh out the details. I want to use cabinet grade plywood (hole cut out for access and doors) with the tank sitting on top of the edge of the plywood, using a piece of 1x4 or similar to hide the plastic trim of the tank. I'm just not sure this would be strong enough. Obviously, I would tie together with a frame as well. See pictures:
http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n60/psychorugby/TankFrame.jpg
http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n60/psychorugby/TankExterior.jpg
The tank acts as a room divider between my kitchen and living room, so all of the filtration is on one of the small sides. I used to run an overflow box since the tank is not drilled. I would prefer not to have to deal with the siphon (I lost siphon enough times to scare me off), so I want to drill the end of the tank to create an overflow. Before I start construction, I need to test out drilling the holes. My wife said if the tank cracked she was fine with me getting another. Now I almost hope it cracks so I can go bigger!
The goals of the tank are to make this a reef tank (mostly LPS) and have as much color and movement with the fish as possible. I know enough to be danI have a 38 gallon tank that I plan to make a refugium, as well as a pretty good sized sump. My protein skimmer is a little lacking (like I said I cheaped out a lot before), as well as my lighting is not the best even if it is 3x150w 12k MH bulbs on an ancient ballast.
My questions really start with:
Can I drill the side (not the bottom) of this tank? It's an All Glass Aquarium that I've owned for going on ten years if that means anything.
What size holes do I need to drill? 1.75" for a 1.00" bulk head, correct?
Any recommendations or suggestions for my stand/canopy/cabinet plans?
What lighting should I look into? I am very interested in replacing my halides with LED to save some cost on the electric bill and hopefully reduce the heat in. I would love to do a track lighting set up with PAR30/38 bulbs. I could also phase these in as the tank matures.
What return pump should I use? I currently have a Little Giant 4x (I think) that I hope still works.
Suggestions for in tank water movement? I have one MaxiJet 1200 that still works.
What skimmer should I look into? I think the one I have is a Coralife for 75 gallons haha.
Any other suggestions, comments, or criticism? I am wide open at this point since it's just an empty tank sitting on an ugly stand in the middle of my living room.
psychorugby
01/24/2012, 09:23 PM
Bumping for input. I had no idea this would get buried on the 4-5 page in less than 12 hours haha.
psychorugby
01/25/2012, 03:21 PM
Ttt
dukeap
01/26/2012, 12:14 PM
I would check AGA web site if they have one and check which side of the tank are tempered because you cant drill on those. check out RedEDGE2k1 page and look for custom cabinet for 90g reef(build thread), he has alot of info on building cabinets and stuff there. He can help you out for sure. I built my own before I read that thread so I did it from nothing but 2 x 4 which work great but the stand is really heavy.
psychorugby
01/26/2012, 12:40 PM
I would check AGA web site if they have one and check which side of the tank are tempered because you cant drill on those. check out RedEDGE2k1 page and look for custom cabinet for 90g reef(build thread), he has alot of info on building cabinets and stuff there. He can help you out for sure. I built my own before I read that thread so I did it from nothing but 2 x 4 which work great but the stand is really heavy.
Everything I have read on the tank over the years says that just the bottom is tempered. I’ll find out for sure when I drill it though. My wife is fully expecting me to crack it and get a new one. In that case, I’m not sure what size to get (my dream tank is 96-120”x36”x24”, but that won’t fit in my current house haha); I might just get an acrylic 125-240g to stay with similar dimensions.
I plan to build the cabinet out of a 1x4 frame skinned in plywood. The stand, canopy, and two side cabinets will be built separately. I will definitely check out the threads you recommended though! Thanks for your input!
The lighting is really getting to me. I know I want to go LED, but I have no idea how many and of what color to get.
dukeap
01/26/2012, 12:43 PM
there is a company online that sells overflow kits that come with the drill bit and everything, if you dont want that then just get the bulk head first and measurte it. for that size tank I think you would need two returns and two drains but dont quote me on that. For your skimmer I would check out SWC or reefoctopos and then do a search on here on the one you like, I have a SWC that I got from ebay at a good price brand new. Your going to need more flow for that tank one maxijet wont do much specialy if you want corals. There are alot of options out there, it all depense on what kind of look your going for and money you want to spend, I would spend the money in the start now, then having to replace later and buy again, and spend more money because you werent happy with what you got. For your return pump not really sure but I would get a new one that gives you no less then 10X turn over rate of the tank so your looking at something with at lease 1300 gph but remenber your head loss for every feet away from the pump so the pump will actually be much more then that. Am actually looking to buy a 125g so am looking at stuff now for a future built. so I will be tagging along.
psychorugby
01/26/2012, 12:49 PM
there is a company online that sells overflow kits that come with the drill bit and everything, if you dont want that then just get the bulk head first and measurte it. for that size tank I think you would need two returns and two drains but dont quote me on that. For your skimmer I would check out SWC or reefoctopos and then do a search on here on the one you like, I have a SWC that I got from ebay at a good price brand new. Your going to need more flow for that tank one maxijet wont do much specialy if you want corals. There are alot of options out there, it all depense on what kind of look your going for and money you want to spend, I would spend the money in the start now, then having to replace later and buy again, and spend more money because you werent happy with what you got. For your return pump not really sure but I would get a new one that gives you no less then 10X turn over rate of the tank so your looking at something with at lease 1300 gph but remenber your head loss for every feet away from the pump so the pump will actually be much more then that. Am actually looking to buy a 125g so am looking at stuff now for a future built. so I will be tagging along.
Glass-holes.com?? I am looking to buy either their 1500gph overflow kit or the 3000gph overflow kit. I'm leaning toward the 3000 so I can use it on the next tank.
I will have to do some more research on pumps. I used to have 3-4 Maxijet 1200s running in the tank with the Little Giant 4x as the return. With all of them sitting dry the last 4 or so years, only one Maxijet (and I hope the Little Giant) still works.
I don't have a budget in mind, but I don't want to spend my life savings either (I have 4 cars that will take care of that). I'd rather spend the money now though and not keep replacing stuff. This post is more asking for help in this area and how to make it a modular build. I can get the cabinet built and use my old pumps and lights to cycle and seed the tank until I know what to get.
dukeap
01/26/2012, 12:55 PM
well for your light depends on what type of corals your planning to keep, have you thought about that yet? or if not going with fish only and live rock which wont need alot of light.
psychorugby
01/26/2012, 01:01 PM
well for your light depends on what type of corals your planning to keep, have you thought about that yet? or if not going with fish only and live rock which wont need alot of light.
I will definitely be keepin corals. Mostly LPS... maybe some SPS when I get the hang of things. My wife wants a bunch of non-reef friendly fish, so it might get interesting haha.
dukeap
01/26/2012, 01:09 PM
I would look at the panorama 2d retrofit for your light, go to there web site and look for the lights I think 3 would do good for LPS
dukeap
01/26/2012, 01:10 PM
I dont blame her there's alot of beautiful fish out there that are not reef safe
dukeap
01/26/2012, 01:11 PM
whats your plan for the sump?
psychorugby
01/26/2012, 01:33 PM
whats your plan for the sump?
I have an acrylic sump that I used previously. I think it’s about 40 gallons. I used to only have a sock filter, carbon, and protein skimmer. I will definitely need to look into adding baffles and whatnot to it when I get that far. I’m still looking at all the threads related to sump design. I also have a 38 gallon tank that I used to use as a refugium that I might again use for a refugium.
dukeap
01/26/2012, 01:40 PM
I took a 20 long and turned it into a sump/refugium, I added the baffles and eveything its not that hard but I would like to do mines over againg I tried to take short cuts and it wasnt good, it works perfect but I would add two more baffles, make sure to measure your equipment to know the space between everything and also check what is the best high of the water level for the skimmer you get so you know how high to make them also
psychorugby
01/26/2012, 01:52 PM
I took a 20 long and turned it into a sump/refugium, I added the baffles and eveything its not that hard but I would like to do mines over againg I tried to take short cuts and it wasnt good, it works perfect but I would add two more baffles, make sure to measure your equipment to know the space between everything and also check what is the best high of the water level for the skimmer you get so you know how high to make them also
Taking shorcuts is what got me in the mess I am in now. Of course moving out of the state for two years didn't help either. I'm older, a little wiser, and not quite as broke as I was in colleges, so it's time to do it right now.
Waddleboy
01/26/2012, 01:54 PM
hey just stumbled across your thread. Drilling holes with gl*******s is great but i personally like coast to coast overflow as its better surface skimming IMO. I drilled my 90 and yesterday i just drilled my 150 with 7 holes and still need to do 3 more. Also call AGA and they can tell you if you can drill it. I am pretty sure the bottom is tempered but not the sides.
Lighting panorama are great lights. I like the ecotech radions almost about the same price and integration functions. Personal preference not trying to start a debate about this.
I used a 29 gallon sump on the 90 and dukeap said it right. short cuts are a bad idea. i did it and slightly regret it. I am going to build one out of acrylic for the 150 and no more short cuts haha. Good luck ill be tagging along
dukeap
01/26/2012, 01:56 PM
how far are you away from gulfport?, there is a store out there that can drill your tank. if you dont want to do it. They drill my 40g when I was out there for work since I got it used out there from another reefer. There is a fish store out there that I love to shop at when am down in that area its call creative aquariums of tampa
psychorugby
01/26/2012, 02:40 PM
If I can figure out what size hole(s) I need to drill, going with a coast to coast style overflow is what I would like to do… especially since it is on the short end of the tank.
I am about an hour or so from Gulfport. The store I used to frequent here in Brandon is gone now, so I will be in search of a new place to go in a few months when this thing is set up and cycled.
dukeap
01/26/2012, 03:06 PM
Check this out, it might help you. Am not sure if am allowed to post this link but if they remove it let me know.
http://www.snappytanks.com/cms.php?id_cms=7
Waddleboy
01/26/2012, 08:02 PM
If I can figure out what size hole(s) I need to drill, going with a coast to coast style overflow is what I would like to do… especially since it is on the short end of the tank.
I am about an hour or so from Gulfport. The store I used to frequent here in Brandon is gone now, so I will be in search of a new place to go in a few months when this thing is set up and cycled.
for a 1" bulkhead which is more than enough flow for you need a 45mm drill bit. 1 1/2" bulk head would be a 60mm drill bit. and the short side of your tank would do well with a c2c
bif24701
01/26/2012, 08:15 PM
For water movement you are going to need a lot more than a 1200 maxijet. I have two Vortech MP40s on my 120 and very satisfied with them. Currently set to about 70% power when my corals grow out I will only need to turn a dial to increase flow. You could get started with just one MP40, and purchase another later as I did.
dukeap
01/26/2012, 08:26 PM
I agree on getting MP40, I have the mp10 and there great, 2 of the mp40 would do best, just start with one and then get the other one, with a good return pump thats more then 1500 gph that should give you good flow on one side until you get more corals and stuff and then get the other mp40, I got one on ebay for a good price new.
psychorugby
01/27/2012, 07:21 AM
For water movement you are going to need a lot more than a 1200 maxijet. I have two Vortech MP40s on my 120 and very satisfied with them. Currently set to about 70% power when my corals grow out I will only need to turn a dial to increase flow. You could get started with just one MP40, and purchase another later as I did.
I used to have 3 or 4 Maxijets running in the tank. Only one works now. I know I will need more flow, so I will definitely check out the MP40s.
psychorugby
01/27/2012, 07:31 AM
for a 1" bulkhead which is more than enough flow for you need a 45mm drill bit. 1 1/2" bulk head would be a 60mm drill bit. and the short side of your tank would do well with a c2c
So if I drill 3 holes for 1" bulkhead on the end for the BeanAnimal style overflow, I will be able to handle enough flow?
Waddleboy
01/27/2012, 11:53 AM
So if I drill 3 holes for 1" bulkhead on the end for the BeanAnimal style overflow, I will be able to handle enough flow?
I dont see why not. I have my 90 gallon with 3 1" bulkheads that then goes to 1.5" pvc and I use the bean animal design. The 1.5" piping allows for more water flow. I have the full siphon throttled halfway and mag 12 for return and its throttled close to half. So i have overkill so i dont see why you wouldnt get enough flow. On the 150 I am going to be using 1.5" holes. May be overkill but ill never have a flood.... :hammer: Hope that helps
dukeap
01/27/2012, 12:22 PM
Originally Posted by psychorugby
So if I drill 3 holes for 1" bulkhead on the end for the BeanAnimal style overflow, I will be able to handle enough flow?
well thanks for letting me know about the Beananimal overflow design, didnt know what it was, am reading all about it now. I think that should be more then enough and it should work perfect for you all you would need is an overflow box
bif24701
01/27/2012, 11:39 PM
So if I drill 3 holes for 1" bulkhead on the end for the BeanAnimal style overflow, I will be able to handle enough flow?
Since your tank is viewable on three sides and is long, you could get one MP40 and one Tunze to reach the far end of the tank. I have a MJ 1200 in my 40breeder, and I think it would take like 4 of these to get the turbulent flow of one MP40, and you get all the nice controlling with the Vortech. I had one MP40 on my mixed reef 120 for a year before I got a second and it really got the job done! With two you get the ideal flow, control, and low noise. Well worth the purchase.
bif24701
01/27/2012, 11:44 PM
Ideal set up would be an MP40 at each end of the tank, however one will be visible.
wildman926
01/28/2012, 07:46 AM
I have never lost siphon using quality overflow boxes and tubes.
If I ever did, I have a "pump stopper kit" that I have modified for my use (larger box, siren, dual floats, etc) from Aquahub. You can see that HERE (http://www.aquahub.com/store/product67.html)
Works like a champ (working on tank has made it go off).
I also have a waste container with a cutoff switch for my Octopus SRO's, in the event the skimmer overflows, and it will shut off power to the skimmer -
http://i150.photobucket.com/albums/s86/wildman926/Aquariums/New%20110/bdbbf17e.jpg
psychorugby
01/28/2012, 09:13 AM
Since your tank is viewable on three sides and is long, you could get one MP40 and one Tunze to reach the far end of the tank. I have a MJ 1200 in my 40breeder, and I think it would take like 4 of these to get the turbulent flow of one MP40, and you get all the nice controlling with the Vortech. I had one MP40 on my mixed reef 120 for a year before I got a second and it really got the job done! With two you get the ideal flow, control, and low noise. Well worth the purchase.
I plan to plumb the returns so they flow toward the overflow. I will look into an MP40 for flow going the other direction.
dukeap
01/28/2012, 05:29 PM
SHow us some pictures once you drill the the tank and start the stand
psychorugby
01/29/2012, 04:43 PM
That's the plan! This will be documentation of my very slow build haha. I hope to get the stand started in the next couple of weekends. I'm putting the final touches on the plans right now.
I have never lost siphon using quality overflow boxes and tubes.
If I ever did, I have a "pump stopper kit" that I have modified for my use (larger box, siren, dual floats, etc) from Aquahub. You can see that HERE (http://www.aquahub.com/store/product67.html)
Works like a champ (working on tank has made it go off).
I also have a waste container with a cutoff switch for my Octopus SRO's, in the event the skimmer overflows, and it will shut off power to the skimmer -
http://i150.photobucket.com/albums/s86/wildman926/Aquariums/New%20110/bdbbf17e.jpg
What model number is the skimmer overflow with the carbon on it?
psychorugby
01/30/2012, 05:39 PM
Ideal set up would be an MP40 at each end of the tank, however one will be visible.
I definitely don't want one in the middle of the tank on the visible side. I was thinking of either plumbing the return to flow toward the overflow with two powerheads flowing out of the rockwork away from the overflow. That way everything is somewhat hidden. I think the MP40 might be a little too strong if I am running two of them.
psychorugby
02/03/2012, 01:12 PM
62mm hole saw and (3) 1 1/2" bulkheads ordered! Time to learn how not to break a tank.
Stand plans being finalized. The side cabinets were supposed to be 18-24" wide. It turns out I only really have enough space to make them 12-15" wide, which hampers the working room and storage.
tinkerman
02/03/2012, 10:16 PM
I used 1" bulkheads on my 125, run a quiet one 4000 return and could dubble the return flow if I wanted. My tank is about 7-8 yrs old and I drilled the back, take your time don't push the drill and clamp a board to the back of the hole. Hole depends on which bulkheads you are using. I use 2 karalia mag 6's on a wavemaker, I think they are too much both running full out at same time. The magnum's don't have the stopper to make sure the blade spins the right direction so no clicking on start up. Would like to get 2 mp 40's. I run a reef octopus sro xp 2000 and like it does a great job. I did the internal overflow box and thought it took up too much space in the tank, so I did a smaller internal and added an eternal for the plumbing. You could silicon in a sheet of glass at an angle and drill your 3 holes, make your box for the outside of tank with plumbing. If you do this take the time and find and use momentive rtv silicon, I found it at a local fastenal place its not that much more than other silicon. I did my stand out of 2x4's and 2x8's for top and skinned in plywood. I have a 33 long tank for sump and can get it in and out without draining tank.
Waddleboy
02/04/2012, 12:50 PM
+1 to what tinker man said. Obvious but remember water. People use putty but I prefers constant hose running with water. All check if the glass is tempered
psychorugby
02/06/2012, 09:18 AM
[QUOTE=tinkerman;19830616]You could silicon in a sheet of glass at an angle and drill your 3 holes, make your box for the outside of tank with plumbing.QUOTE]
Not sure I follow what you are saying here... I plan to build a 4"x4"x18" (maybe bigger) internal overflow box and use the BeanAnimal style overflow with 1 1/2" bulkheads. I went with 1 1/2" bulkheads just for peace of mind knowing they will handle way more flow than I need to put through them. The hole saw should arrive this week, so I need to get the remainder of the rock and sand out of the tank so I can move it to drill.
After that, I have a sump that holds about 30 gallons and a 38 gallon tank that I once had set up as a refugium that I plan to set up again.
tinkerman
02/06/2012, 09:50 AM
psychorugby this is the way I did mine with internal wier and external overflow box. Since you are using an end of the tank for the overflow you could take a peice of glass 1/4"x 6"tall x width of your tank, place in tank so you have a 2" space at the top and flat agaist side of tank on bottom so less than a 45 degree angle.
_____________
l \l
l l
l l
l____________ l
Sorry for the crude drawing.:artist: Drill the end of the tank so you would have 3 hole linking the tank to outside overflow box, then drill outside overflow box for plumbing. Here are a couple pics of mine.
http://i562.photobucket.com/albums/ss68/tinkerman_photos/th_DSCF2375.jpg (http://s562.photobucket.com/albums/ss68/tinkerman_photos/?action=view¤t=DSCF2375.jpg)
http://i562.photobucket.com/albums/ss68/tinkerman_photos/th_DSCF2397.jpg (http://s562.photobucket.com/albums/ss68/tinkerman_photos/?action=view¤t=DSCF2397.jpg)
http://i562.photobucket.com/albums/ss68/tinkerman_photos/th_DSCF2400.jpg (http://s562.photobucket.com/albums/ss68/tinkerman_photos/?action=view¤t=DSCF2400.jpg)
So inside tank you would have 1/4"x6"x18" peice of glass and outside of tank you would have your 4"x4"x18" box.
tinkerman
02/06/2012, 09:53 AM
Not sure what happened to my beautiful drawing, looks fine when posted but lines arn't were they should be after. It supposed to be a box with the peice of glass.
psychorugby
02/06/2012, 09:11 PM
I'll be sure to run through your pictures for an example I what you're talking about.
I got my hole saw and bulkheads this afternoon. I really can't believe I ordered them Friday and they're here already. Glass-holes really did me right (can't beat free candy either). I'm afraid I may have gone overboard and too big with the 1 1/2" bulkheads. They're HUGE.
Should I return them for 1" bulkheads instead??
SimonSKL
02/07/2012, 10:21 AM
I am also in the early stage of planning a 125g build. May I ask how tall is your stand? I plan to build my at 37" tall but I don't think it is tall enough for the sump and protein skimmer. using 2x6 for the top, that leaves me with about 31" inside height.
psychorugby
02/07/2012, 01:56 PM
I am also in the early stage of planning a 125g build. May I ask how tall is your stand? I plan to build my at 37" tall but I don't think it is tall enough for the sump and protein skimmer. using 2x6 for the top, that leaves me with about 31" inside height.
I'm making mine 36" tall, although I have been toying with going to 40" as of late.
tinkerman
02/07/2012, 05:43 PM
If you do the in tank way, overflow inside tank use the 1 1/2". I used 1" on mine after I did the external. You need the 1 1/2" for the plumbing peices as that is the smallest size pieces you can get some of them in for the way bean has it layed out. I did 36" for my stand with 2x8 and is fine unless you are ganna use a 75 or 55 for a sump as you may have issues getting the skimmer in/out.
psychorugby
02/08/2012, 07:24 AM
If you do the in tank way, overflow inside tank use the 1 1/2". I used 1" on mine after I did the external. You need the 1 1/2" for the plumbing peices as that is the smallest size pieces you can get some of them in for the way bean has it layed out. I did 36" for my stand with 2x8 and is fine unless you are ganna use a 75 or 55 for a sump as you may have issues getting the skimmer in/out.
I got 1 1/2" slip x slip bulkheads. I assume these are okay since the BeanAnimal style uses 1" slip x slip fittings to the 1 1/2" piping. The bulkheads just look so huge, but I plan to use them anyway. That way I can get more flow with the return pump instead of having to use powerheads. That should produce nice surface turbulance since I am going to plumb the return to flow toward the overflow instead of away.
My sump is "custom" made, not a modified tank. I think it holds about 30 gallons or so. Getting the equipment in and out won't be an issue.
psychorugby
02/16/2012, 12:12 PM
Well hopefully this weekend is the big weekend for drilling the end of the tank. Wish me luck!
I'm sitting here bored at work trying to figure out what equipment I need to [eventually] get for the tank. If I am trying to keep a mixed reef (about 50/50 lps and sps), what all should I be looking into? I plan to build a DIY LED setup, maybe 48 LEDs per side since I have the older style tank with the single center brace. I am thinking of getting the Avast skimmer at some point as well. As I said before, I plan to plumb the return to flow toward the overflow box, so I am thinking of getting just one MP40 to flow toward the visible end of the penninsula.
What else will I need?
dukeap
02/16/2012, 05:05 PM
if your going to go with a refugium then you need a light for that as well as sand or mud or both, you might need some reactors for carbon and gfo or bio pellets.some dosing pump to dose your calcium, alk and mag. Also auto top off system for evaporated water. fans or chiller to keep your temp down and heater to keep it up. an aquarium control would be good like apex or reefkeeper that will solve alot of needs and can be control online if you get the net module for the reefkeeper the apex come with it. the apex seem to be the better control but I have a reefkeeper lite and I havent had any problem with it but I have read of a lot of people that did so in the end its up to you and your budget. your probably saying you dont need a controler but am going to tell you what I do with my reefkeeper, I can control my fans to go on and off at different temps, and everything else for that matter like pump, skimmer, heats all that. I dose everyday my alk,mag, and cal with 3 different toms aqualifters set on auto so I dont need to touch anything. I control my return pump and skimmer with one buttom to turn off for feeding time and it turns back on in 30 min automatic. I also have it connected to ATO system to dose the evaporated water. by it self I dont have the lights because the lights have there own system but if your going with leds they can control that to, to dim on and off, you pretty much can do anything with.:beer:
psychorugby
03/01/2012, 03:19 PM
Holes successfully drilled last weekend. Now I am just waiting on my friend to be free with his truck so that I can get some plywood to build the stand. I hope that I can get started on the stand this weekend. I am getting really anxious to get water in this thing!
dukeap
03/01/2012, 07:41 PM
Glad to see it all went well keep us updated, can't wait to see it done, have you decided on any other equipment yet, like your sump, skinner, return pump , let us know if you have any questions
radbluesfan
03/01/2012, 08:23 PM
Please post pictures as you plumb. I am trying to figure out in my head how I will do it in the future.
psychorugby
03/02/2012, 08:29 AM
Glad to see it all went well keep us updated, can't wait to see it done, have you decided on any other equipment yet, like your sump, skinner, return pump , let us know if you have any questions
I'll be using one of two sumps I have laying around from the last time I had reef tanks. They're more or less the store bought wet/dry filters with the bioballs replaced by liverock. I have a 38 gallon tank that I am trying to figure out how to plumb into the system to act as my refugium. I might just plumb the two acrylic sumps together... still trying to work through this.
I hope my Little Giant 4x return pump still works so that I can use that to get water circulating when I get to that point. I want to get a Reeflo hybrid pump - Dart or Barracuda. I want most of my flow to come from the return since this is a penninsula style tank. If needed, I will probably get a Vortech MP-40 to flow water opposite the return flow.
I haven't decided on the skimmer yet. I have two small ones that I want to use while the rock cycles, then replace. I was thinking of going with an Avast skimmer. Does anyone have any thoughts on these?
The goal for this tank is to be built in stages with costs spread out (if I can convince myself to be patient, which is really difficult) and for the tank to be as simple and efficient as possible. With simplicity and efficiency in mind, I am open to any and all ideas!
Pictures to follow as I get them off my phone.
Waddleboy
03/02/2012, 12:10 PM
Like the plan. Putting two tanks together is as simple as a bulkhead in each with a piece of PVC between the two connecting them. Not sure if thats what you meant but it works. Looking forward to the progress!
psychorugby
03/06/2012, 03:53 PM
Lighting.
I have no idea what to do in this area. I currently have 3 150w 12,000K or 14,000K single-ended metal halides running off a single ballast that is probably older than I am, as well as some T5 actinic fixtures (I think I still own these).
Is it worth me trying to upgrade the MH system - buying new ballast(s) and bulbs? If so, what ballast(s) should I look into? I was thinking of going to 4 bulbs since I have a single center brace on this tank. Is there such thing as a ballast that will run multiple bulbs anymore?
I'm really interested in LED lighting as of late for the heat and energy savings. I just have no idea what to even get though. I plan to make this a mixed tank, so I want enough lighting and PAR for the SPS. I am not opposed to building my own fixtures, nor am I opposed to building the lighting in sections to space out the cost.
tinkerman
03/06/2012, 10:31 PM
I like halides. I don't think they have got the spectrum yet with led's. You should be able to find some double ballasts
DavidKulzer
03/07/2012, 12:09 AM
Glad I found this thread. I'm in pretty much the same boat as you. My 125 has been sitting in a storage shed for about 4 years and I just got it out. I'm buying a house and the wife says I can use it as a room divider. I haven't had a tank at all since this one. I have most of my old equipment but I'm not sure what still works. Unlike you, I am on a very broke budget. I will have to run with what I have and upgrade as money allows. I will be spending the next month or 2 trying to find my best cheap options before the tank gets going again. I think the lighting is my biggest concern. I have my old MH and T5 stuff but again, not sure what still works.
Here's a link to how mine was setup if you need any ideas.
http://s1191.photobucket.com/albums/z474/davidkulzer/Fish%20Tank/
psychorugby
03/07/2012, 09:51 AM
Glad I found this thread. I'm in pretty much the same boat as you. My 125 has been sitting in a storage shed for about 4 years and I just got it out. I'm buying a house and the wife says I can use it as a room divider. I haven't had a tank at all since this one. I have most of my old equipment but I'm not sure what still works. Unlike you, I am on a very broke budget. I will have to run with what I have and upgrade as money allows. I will be spending the next month or 2 trying to find my best cheap options before the tank gets going again. I think the lighting is my biggest concern. I have my old MH and T5 stuff but again, not sure what still works.
Here's a link to how mine was setup if you need any ideas.
http://s1191.photobucket.com/albums/z474/davidkulzer/Fish%20Tank/
I'm not too far off broke budget since I have another very expensive hobby (restoring cars) that I have to get by my wife.
Lights are probably my main concern right now as well since the tank will cycle for about six weeks and it will be a while before I start putting corals in it. I can make do with the halides for a while, but the ballast I have currently is loud as heck and hums. Since the tank is right next to the couch in the living room, I want everything quiet. The excess heat and electricity turns me off a bit from the halides too.
radbluesfan
03/07/2012, 08:29 PM
This is probably a question for it's own thread but............Why doesn't everyone like LED lighting. Between the heat, the power bill, the yearly $80 per bulb replacement costs, and space it seems a better choice than MH. The T5 bulbs are expensive as well. Once the initial cost of the LED is paid it seems as though they will pay for themselves after several years---and once you recover from the initial price shock there is no looking back.
I am a total newbie, have never owned even a goldfish bowl, and have been following this thread because I am wanting to start a 125G myself. I have seen tanks with MH, LED, and T5 and I really do not see a lot of difference. Maybe it is my untrained eyes but I am leaning towards LED because I do not want to replace the bulbs, have cooling issues, or higher power bills---PLUS I can hardly tell a difference.
Maybe to a true expert there are reasons and I would like to hear them.
Waddleboy
03/07/2012, 09:09 PM
Its not that people are against it. They are still relatively new and people are skeptical if they provide the same spectrum. LEDs work on specific spectrum and people wonder if they actually are able to perform at the same level T5 and MH. People are not comparing whether or not the cooling and electricity is cheaper as that is obvious. I am new to this whole thing also and i went with LEDs because of cooling, color choice, and savings on power. It made sense to me, but then again i had no experience with MH or T5
tinkerman
03/07/2012, 10:54 PM
Led's I don't like the narrow spectrum. You need alot of different colors to get the full spectrum out of led's. If you look at the spectral plots of leds, the ranbow graphs with the spikes of the color in the bulb, they are very limited to each bulb color. I have a 12 cree setup with 8 rb and 4 white the coral colors aren't there like t5 or halide, maybe I just don't have the right color ratio yet. It alot of money for leds to figure out how many and what colors you need to get the spectrum of t5's or halides to get the same color and pop out of corals. I look at leds like computers, I would have to spend about $1500 to light my tank and in 3yrs something with better spectrum and more poer and efficiant comes out so you have to upgrade to keep up. They do have good par and penitration. The 12 bulb led gets 200 on the sandbe of a 40 breeder 14" above the water. T5 have less heat than halides, good spectrum, decent penitration. I tested a guys tank with a 6 bulb icecap 660 retro and see 200-250 par on sandbed. I personal like my radiu 250 watt halides run on hqi ballasts in lumen bright mini reflecters. Radiums give great color and pop to coral, have great par for a 20k bulb, but you get more heat with it. I get 350-500 par on my sandbed. It would take alot to get me to ditch my halides. It really depends what you want to keep and how much heat your willing to deal with. My halides give my tank a 3-4 degree swing every day, not enough to get a chiller for me. I ran a t5 icecap 6 bulb retro for a yr and seen a 1 degree swing. The big savings with led is not having to run a chiller that some halides users have to, but if you don't need a chiller the savings arn't that great or you have a really high electrical charge in your area. lighting is personal taste, some like yellowish white 10k, some like white witha hint of blue light 15k, some like blue light 20k.
Randrew215
03/12/2012, 02:44 PM
I'm doing a pretty similar build to you. I just drilled my 125 for beananimal overflow, which I'm running internally (as first described, NOT with internal weir and plumbing outside tank). I''m trying to figure out how I am going to run my return plumbing. I've got an mp40 going on either end. What are your plans?
psychorugby
03/21/2012, 11:44 AM
I'm doing a pretty similar build to you. I just drilled my 125 for beananimal overflow, which I'm running internally (as first described, NOT with internal weir and plumbing outside tank). I''m trying to figure out how I am going to run my return plumbing. I've got an mp40 going on either end. What are your plans?
I'll be running the weir inside and the plumbing outside (to be contained/hidden by cabinetry). I will plumb the return pump to flow toward the weir across the tank and probably run one big or two smaller powerheads against the return pump to create some turbulence.
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