Weldon 42

[IMAMONSTER]

Hi has anyone used weld on 42. Any special tools needed. Trying to weld one inch acrylic any tips on doing this.

[Ron Reefman]

Make sure the cut edges are very straight and very smooth. And give it plenty of time to set up given 1" acrylic.

[IMAMONSTER]

thanks ron

[hebygb]

I am fairly certain that there is a special applicator for that solvent vs WO4. You might want to contact James (Acrylics on this site).

[IMAMONSTER]

yeah i got it. it dispenses the WO42

[dattack]

How much did the dispenser cost?

[IMAMONSTER]

got it for $205

[dahenley]

is there any reason you using 42, and not a normal style WO-4?
i think "Acrylics" a acrylic guy uses standard solvent (he mixes his own, but in a since its like WO-4) and uses it up to like 1.5" i think is what i have read?

he claims (and is a tank manufacturer) that a solvent weld is as strong for these stresses as 42. just saying

you may ask him.. since he's a PRO!

[IMAMONSTER]

Wow all the research I've done states you want to use WO42 for large builds. Do you happened to know what page of his tread its on?

[dahenley]

http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1056956&page=101

I only say that, because I heard you should bake or temper the joint if using 42. There was a guy making tanks with it, and over time, the seams split. Due to no "biting" into the acrylic like a solvent based glue.

He will be able to tell you if its a good thing or not.

Hope that helps...
I think i can remember a tank that was 2" and was solvent welded and holds fine its the one at a major hospital. Like children's miracle or something... ill have to find the thread somewhere.

But ask acrylics. He's not on all the time, but always gives good advice

[IMAMONSTER]

Thanks for all the help. i will try to get in contact with Acrylics. Now when you use the word (solvent) are you speaking about WO4?

[SA13]

#4 is a solvent and #42 is an adhesive

[IMAMONSTER]

Right but would you use it to weld one inch acrylic?

[SA13]

Like hebygb and dahenley said check with acrylics to be sure. I think you are the one doing the +500 gal tank. That would be one big Woops.

[IMAMONSTER]

Yeah waiting on a response for Acrylics.

[dahenley]

He doesnt like Weld-0n because it has "fillers and what not

he mixes his own using MC and Acidic Acid
he can tell you the ratio's because he prefers to mix his own and have full control over what is used to bond his tanks and acrylic.

By Solvent, yes. i mean something like WO3/WO4
and you can bond things in excess of 1" with no problems.
if you mix your own, you can control the drying time (difference between 3 and 4) and you can have control over the capillarity abilities with it verses the thickness of 42

im no expert...
so i will just leave it at that....
(if you roam the above thread, about 10 pages or so back. and some in between, he gives his mix ration to the other guy that talks a lot (floyd or something like that)

[Phixer]

Ive done a lot of research on the 2 part stuff over the past year or so and have tried it on a couple small scale projects. Here is what Ive learned. It's best used for material 1.25" or thicker and for joints that arent machined perfectly enough for a solvent joint. Although it's recommended to be annealed, it rarely is on tanks this size because they wont fit in an oven and most of these huge panels are assembled on site. The design of the joint should be considered to be somewhat of a mechanical joint similar to wood joints. For example, I used a 5 degree outside bevel and filled in the area with #42 using aluminum tape as a dam. Dry at room temp or up to 150 degrees for maximum strength. It's a different process than solvent entirely and IMO is stronger if you get a decent bond to the base material which is where your prep work and mechanical process comes in. Some have said you can break cement joints with a hammer? fortunately hydrostatic pressure dosent work that way. Shear/tension resistance is good especially when you consider the ammount of surface area and the fact that the joint can be cast in any size beefy enough. The mechanicl bond (bite) into the base material can be improved by scuff sanding also. I like it the 2 part stuff. IMO i's the only option for thick crylic joints.