Plumbing RO filter together...need some input.

[jmowbray]

I need some plumbing help from you all. The picture bellow illustrates what I'm trying to do.

http://i842.photobucket.com/albums/zz347/jmowbray/plumbing.jpg

I guess my main concerns are all the float valves in the storage barrels (both FW and SW) and 5 gallon TO tank. To me it makes since but what do you all think? They will take a while to fill initially as water will be flowing into three different tanks. Once one or two are full though the float valves will close and only go into one tank. This was the only way I could think of keeping my TO tank full. I guessing that the main tank will need to be TOed with most all of the contents of the storage tank. So I would have to fill it every day (like I'm going to remember that :) ). Of couse there will be ball valves and unions especially in the transfer pump section.

Also do you think that where I placed the booster pump pressure switch will it work and shut it off?

[jmowbray]

45 views and nothing to say....

[Jcohen9999]

I cannot really comment on the booster pump switch placement (although it intuitively looks to be in the wrong place) but as for the rest, I've been using a similar system and I have kent float switches in all the reservoir. Just remember to have a shutoff valve before each tank so they don't continue to fill as you use the contents.

Hth
Jeff

[Marioplumber]

I need some plumbing help from you all. The picture bellow illustrates what I'm trying to do.

http://i842.photobucket.com/albums/zz347/jmowbray/plumbing.jpg

I guess my main concerns are all the float valves in the storage barrels (both FW and SW) and 5 gallon TO tank. To me it makes since but what do you all think? They will take a while to fill initially as water will be flowing into three different tanks. Once one or two are full though the float valves will close and only go into one tank. This was the only way I could think of keeping my TO tank full. I guessing that the main tank will need to be TOed with most all of the contents of the storage tank. So I would have to fill it every day (like I'm going to remember that :) ). Of couse there will be ball valves and unions especially in the transfer pump section.
I would put a check valve after you're transfer pump to prevent the saltwater from mixing with you're fresh ro water. Are you sure u need a booster pump I would check ur water pressure coming into the house anywhere between 60 and 80 psi will be fine for the r/o filter
Also do you think that where I placed the booster pump pressure switch will it work and shut it off?

[Playa-1]

I see no point in mixing salt water and storing salt water in two different containers. If anything you may store an extra container of fresh water that is off of the float valve. Or maybe a Kalk storage container.

The RO/DI unit needs to have an auto shut off valve.

I would use the RO/DI unit, the auto shut off valve, and the float valve to keep the only the RO/DI storage container topped off. (The storage container should be in a place that has the ability to drain water when the float valve fails)

I would not use the RO/DI filter to directly feed the Salt water mixing and storage container or the 5 gal top off container under the DT. (only the fresh water storage container) All the other containers can be filled by gravity or a pump when needed from the fresh water storage drum. This limits potential water damage.

You can pump or gravity feed water from the fresh water storage to the Saltwater mixing/storage tank. You could also do the same with a second fresh water storage tank that is not on a float valve. ( Did I mention that float valves fail sometimes)

I would recommend an alternative method to fill the 5gal TO container under the DT. (See float valves fail sometimes note above :) ) You have many options with pumping equipment, gravity feeding it, ATO systems, and manual transfer. If you have room for a water line you may find that the 5 gallon storage under the tank is not necessary.

I do not have experience with booster pump pressure switch mounting locations.

IMHO, I would go back to the drawing board on this one.

[jmowbray]

Sorry I guess I should have explained some things. The "freshwater storage tank" is water for my 70 Gallon planted FW tank. The SW storage tank is just RO/DI water also. The point is to have the SW mixing barrel full and the storage tank full. So I always have fresh water available for mixing. When the mixed barrel is empty I just pump over the fresh water and add the salt. While filling storage tank with plain H20, ready for whenever I need it.

Con someone please post a picture of these float valves that fail. I have one running done stairs right now and I don't see how it can fail unless the pressure built up so much that the hose blew off.

[Playa-1]

Any float valve is subject to failing in the open or closed position. Same with solenoid valves, check valves, and heaters. There no exceptions that I know of. In my opinion it's not if its going to fail, it's when it's going to fail. Safeguards and fail-safes may be helpful, but what is safer then not leaving the system hooked up directly to a water line. By using a container that is not directly hooked up to a water line, It will limit the potential damage if something goes wrong. You should proceed with caution.

[jmowbray]

hmmmmm I guess I better go down stairs and check my barrel.

The float I use raises which pushes in a piston which seals the hole the water is coming out of. The higher the float goes up the tighter the seal. Eventually the water pressure pushing up on the float is more than the incoming water pressure. When this happens the float seals completely and pressure in the line builds. Once the pressure building high enough the auto shutoff switch stop of the flow of water in the filter system and then the booster pump pressure switch triggers at 40psi shutting down the booster pump.

[jmowbray]

hmmmmm I guess I better go down stairs and check my barrel.

The float I use raises which pushes in a piston which seals the hole the water is coming out of. The higher the float goes up the tighter the seal. Eventually the water pressure pushing up on the float is more than the incoming water pressure. When this happens the float seals completely and pressure in the line builds. Once the pressure building high enough the auto shutoff switch stop of the flow of water in the filter system and then the booster pump pressure switch triggers at 40psi shutting down the booster pump.

[Playa-1]

When everything is working right then there's no problem. Have you ever seen a toilet that continues to run. The toilet is hooked up to a drain system. Valve failure only results in a high water bill.

[markw78]

I second Playa-1's comments...

Yah, all float valves will fail. I got Leak Frogs to put around mine, of course you have to hear that...

This is the shutoff mentioned, you need it to actually "turn off" the RO unit when your res is full, otherwise it will just keep producing waste water.

http://www.marinedepot.com/Kent_Marine_Shut_off_Valve_Shut_Off_Valves_for_RO_DI_Water_Filter_Systems-Kent_Marine-KM1671-FIRORASO-vi.html

Only thoughts on the boosters is that you shouldn't need them... do you use a booster with your RO/DI the way it is now? the lines are pressurized with the water, once it's filled and the psi is pushing up the pipe, you should be good to go... unless of course your well can't push hard enough for your RO/DI unit, but you'd be having that issue already? It doesn't take much to get the 70psi needed to run

Just have 1 res. that auto fills, the other 2 should be filled by flipping on a pump, drop a MAG 9 in the res, branch to each of the others, with a ball valve, so you can fill one or the other. Open the valve to the FW tank, close the SW... fill it, buffer it, ready to go, or vice versa.

On a side note your post makes me miss having a basement... stupid Texas

[kelrn98]

Check this out. http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/store/products/reverse-osmosis-filters-and-systems/ro-di-accessories/leak-controller-detector-for-ro-di-system.html