Floor support

[sammy77]

Hi, I've been doing a lot of reading and research here for my current project which is a 220gal Fowlr. I had a 90gal fowlr up and running for 5 years or so, but sold it all before I moved. So I have decided to go bigger lol. First step I need to take is reinforcing my floor. The tank will sit in my living room with an 8ft ceiling basement directly beneath it. I am planning on using 4 adjustable support posts and gonna sister the floor joists in this area with LVL joists. The tank will have to sit parallel to the joists underneath it, although I'd feel better if it were perpendicular. Any adise would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.

Sam

[NCreefer73]

Hey im a carpenter and home builder and deal with stress loads alot. if your going to use lvls and post your going to be fine the only thing i might suggest is to block in between the joist to tie them all together and use hangers on your blocking this will not only equal out the stress but help your subfloor as well if you put your blocking directly beneath where the tank stand will be and let them post kind of catch some of everything. Thats how did my floor underneath but the i didn't use post i just built me a 2x12 wall underneath it isn't going nowhere.

[sammy77]

Hey im a carpenter and home builder and deal with stress loads alot. if your going to use lvls and post your going to be fine the only thing i might suggest is to block in between the joist to tie them all together and use hangers on your blocking this will not only equal out the stress but help your subfloor as well if you put your blocking directly beneath where the tank stand will be and let them post kind of catch some of everything. Thats how did my floor underneath but the i didn't use post i just built me a 2x12 wall underneath it isn't going nowhere.

Thank you. I currently have a 2x4 wall setup in the center of this that is separating 2 rooms on top of using the posts. How far apart do you recommend using the blocks?

[Ron Reefman]

Hey im a carpenter and home builder and deal with stress loads alot. if your going to use lvls and post your going to be fine the only thing i might suggest is to block in between the joist to tie them all together and use hangers on your blocking this will not only equal out the stress but help your subfloor as well if you put your blocking directly beneath where the tank stand will be and let them post kind of catch some of everything. Thats how did my floor underneath but the i didn't use post i just built me a 2x12 wall underneath it isn't going nowhere.

+1 best floor support advise I've every seen here on on RC. :beer:

[NCreefer73]

ok I’m not sure if you’re saying that the 2x4 wall is underneath were the tank is going to sit or the wall is directly beneath the upstairs wall or if its parallel or perpendicular with the floor joist I would assume it is perpendicular with the floor joist but anyway if you could clarify that a little would help. As for your blocking, you say that your tank sits parallel with the floor joist so I would just put the blocking between the floor joists at each end of the tank. I actually drove a finish nail through my floor at my stand corners so I knew exactly where to put my blocking on each side of the tank. I’m assuming you have 2x10 floor joist so just cut you some 2x10 blocks to go in between the joist to tie them all together you could run the blocks on out a few joist which will keep spreading more load out to the other floor joist. The idea is to spread the load and to keep transferring the weight all the way down to the concrete

[sammy77]

ok I’m not sure if you’re saying that the 2x4 wall is underneath were the tank is going to sit or the wall is directly beneath the upstairs wall or if its parallel or perpendicular with the floor joist I would assume it is perpendicular with the floor joist but anyway if you could clarify that a little would help. As for your blocking, you say that your tank sits parallel with the floor joist so I would just put the blocking between the floor joists at each end of the tank. I actually drove a finish nail through my floor at my stand corners so I knew exactly where to put my blocking on each side of the tank. I’m assuming you have 2x10 floor joist so just cut you some 2x10 blocks to go in between the joist to tie them all together you could run the blocks on out a few joist which will keep spreading more load out to the other floor joist. The idea is to spread the load and to keep transferring the weight all the way down to the concrete

There is a wall built with 2x4's in the basement almost dead center underneath the tank. I built it when I finished the basement six months ago. That wall is perpendicular to the joists and the fish tank. I have 2x10 floor joists I'm working with. Great idea on the finish nails! At what length do you recommend spacing the 2x10 blocks? Also should I place a piece of plywood under the stand? Thanks

[Noworries79]

Great thread and some good advice!

[Maxxdog21]

I thought I was going to put in a 220g as well and the first thing I thought of was the weight factor, because the tank was going to sit parallel to the floor joists. I considered sistering the current 2x10s but then I ended going with a steel I beam, placed in between 2 floor joists, that sits on 2 block walls and is held up tight against the floor with steel support plates. I put in the beam and then ended up with a 120g but when I upgrade to a bigger tank the support is already in place. The width of the tank is centered on the beam. The beam I picked will support 6000 lbs, placed right in the middle before it will deflect 1". I estimate my setup to weigh about 1400lbs with tank, rock, stand and sump so I am more than safe. The length of the tank sits more on one side so the load isn't right in the middle(which means less deflection). I had to disconnect some wiring to get the beam in and then put them back but you will have to move stuff anyhow to get the wood in there. I feel good with it in there and never even think about the weight now. I used a smaller beam because I did not want to mess with the plumbing for the heat. You could use a bigger beam and make it support 10000lbs. It's something to consider...
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7166/6462794081_0fd0c63eb1.jpg

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7150/6462796147_e38239e599.jpg

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7034/6462796729_2d83a4b90f.jpg

[NCreefer73]

If you got a 2x4 wall running perpendicular under your floor joist and that wall was put in there pretty tight that’s already a big plus in your floor support especially if you got a stud directly underneath your floor joist. But I would still go ahead with some additional support because we’re talking a lot of weight and you want to overkill it for piece of mine.
I’d put blocking a couple feet apart and make sure you got a block on each end of the tank. Are you going to slide those lvls over the 2x4 wall it sounds like they might be hard to get in there? Take this into consideration I can’t see exactly what you've got you said you finished the basement so do you have sheet rock on everything or is the floor system exposed. one thing you could do that would be easier than lvls would be to block between the joist at each end of where your aquarium is sitting then nail you something like a 2x10 flat across the bottom of the joist (or triple up a 2x4 instead 3 1/2 side vertical) and sit it under the joist and run your post up at the center of them, but if your basement is finished this might not work with your appearance of a finished basement. I’m just try to throw some more ideas at you there is several different ways to do things, and as for plywood under your stand in my opinion it wouldn't make a lot of difference I thought about it on mine myself and came to the conclusion that it’s not going to do anything the subfloor is not already doing.

[sammy77]

I thought I was going to put in a 220g as well and the first thing I thought of was the weight factor, because the tank was going to sit parallel to the floor joists. I considered sistering the current 2x10s but then I ended going with a steel I beam, placed in between 2 floor joists, that sits on 2 block walls and is held up tight against the floor with steel support plates. I put in the beam and then ended up with a 120g but when I upgrade to a bigger tank the support is already in place. The width of the tank is centered on the beam. The beam I picked will support 6000 lbs, placed right in the middle before it will deflect 1". I estimate my setup to weigh about 1400lbs with tank, rock, stand and sump so I am more than safe. The length of the tank sits more on one side so the load isn't right in the middle(which means less deflection). I had to disconnect some wiring to get the beam in and then put them back but you will have to move stuff anyhow to get the wood in there. I feel good with it in there and never even think about the weight now. I used a smaller beam because I did not want to mess with the plumbing for the heat. You could use a bigger beam and make it support 10000lbs. It's something to consider...
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7166/6462794081_0fd0c63eb1.jpg

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7150/6462796147_e38239e599.jpg

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7034/6462796729_2d83a4b90f.jpg


Very nice, I thought about this as well, but I simply don't have the room to swing a beam this size in. Also, I'm on my 3rd tank in 8 years or so. I just decided this time I'm gonna do a tank as big as I can afford!

[sammy77]

If you got a 2x4 wall running perpendicular under your floor joist and that wall was put in there pretty tight that’s already a big plus in your floor support especially if you got a stud directly underneath your floor joist. But I would still go ahead with some additional support because we’re talking a lot of weight and you want to overkill it for piece of mine.
I’d put blocking a couple feet apart and make sure you got a block on each end of the tank. Are you going to slide those lvls over the 2x4 wall it sounds like they might be hard to get in there? Take this into consideration I can’t see exactly what you've got you said you finished the basement so do you have sheet rock on everything or is the floor system exposed. one thing you could do that would be easier than lvls would be to block between the joist at each end of where your aquarium is sitting then nail you something like a 2x10 flat across the bottom of the joist (or triple up a 2x4 instead 3 1/2 side vertical) and sit it under the joist and run your post up at the center of them, but if your basement is finished this might not work with your appearance of a finished basement. I’m just try to throw some more ideas at you there is several different ways to do things, and as for plywood under your stand in my opinion it wouldn't make a lot of difference I thought about it on mine myself and came to the conclusion that it’s not going to do anything the subfloor is not already doing.

You're very good at assuming things NCreefer73, you must do this for a living. lol That's correct.

I am somewhat limited in my space on the left side of the tank area below. The right side of the tank area in the basement is not finished. It's my utility room(sump pump area) I even thought about running pvc and floor drains straight down for water changes, etc.. You can guide me thru that one another day...lol The good news is on the left side of the tank, below in the basement I framed a closet and dry walled but I never got around to mudding the drywall so my screws are all exposed. So this won't be bad at all.

If I cannot slide those 10' lvl's from the "utility area". I will do as you suggested as far as blocking then placing my posts underneath that. Thank you again.

[rocking]

it realy sounds like u got it in hand

[sammy77]

it realy sounds like u got it in hand

Thank you. I know I'm making more out of it than I should probably should but I appreciate everyones input. :beer:

[Jamesjkl]

My tank will be perpendicular to the floor joists. 350 gal the wall behind it is on the center beam of the house(6X8) with brick posts 4? foot apart, can i use the steel adjustable posts and a beam like that to support the outside edge of the tank? The house is a 20's bungalow with new block foundation 3/4 pine sub floors and 3/4 inch oak flooring over that. I'm just wanting ideas and thoughts about it should the beam be directly under it on the edge?


The tank will fit in a spot that at one time had a built in bookcase (description from neighbor) removed in 45-50? the tank will be open on the end and front otherwise will be built in top to bottom.

[NCreefer73]

Jamesjkl

Being your tank is already perpendicular to the floor joist right where they fasten to your center beam I would make sure them joist have joist hangers or see if they sit them on a ledger strip when they built it. Also see if that wall upstairs is a load bearing wall it could be supporting the ceiling joist and that wall could already be holding a lot of weight if it is. if it is I would support the entire floor system underneath it if it’s not then I would still support the front of the tank being it’s going to weight 3000 lbs. if you don't need that area open in the basement I would just build me a 2x12 wall underneath it and per line it.

[NCreefer73]

Jamesjkl

Don't forget to block inbetween them joist to that ties them all together

[Jamesjkl]

The floor joists sit on top of the 6x8 and stick past from both sides by a foot or more and the 6x8 is supported by brick pillars every 4 foot across the basement already had cross blocking there but i can add more.

Thanks for the reply

[sammy77]

Well, I finally got around to completing my floor support project. I ended up just reinforcing my 2x4 walls that I have underneath my tank floor, used 2x10 blocks every 12" on center, and on the ends of tank. I ended up needing only one steel post for the right side of my tank. As always, I thank you for your help making this project easy...
http://i834.photobucket.com/albums/zz266/sammy77_01/005.jpg
http://i834.photobucket.com/albums/zz266/sammy77_01/006-1.jpg
http://i834.photobucket.com/albums/zz266/sammy77_01/007-2.jpg