tgunn
03/15/2012, 09:05 PM
I'm currently building a nano tank for work, and have another temp tank setup so I can redo my 34g Solana. But these tanks have no ATO units. Rather than buying them I decided to try making them myself.
My basic design concept is a dual float unit, where the bottom float provides the main top off control and the top float acts as a backup to kill the circuit in case of a malfunction of the lower float. The floats switch a 5v DC power source to trigger a power relay which switches a pump on/off.
Supplies (for each unit) (all from DigiKey):
G5LA-1A4 DC5 - Omron SPST 10A NO relay with 5v DC coil - $1.46
You'll need two of EITHER OF THESE ($14.19 each):
LS01-1A66-PA-500W - Meder Normally Open Float Valve - with this type of float valve you can mount the float with the wires out the top and the float hanging below.
or
LS01-1B66-PA-500W - Meder Normally Closed Flaot Valve - I accidentally ordered this type; the circuit is closed when the float is at the end with the wires coming out; so I had to mount them upside down. durr
EPS050100-P5RP - Cheapest 5v switching wall transformer - $8.64
A bunch of PVC parts (elbows, pipe, etc)
A mounting box and wire.
Here's the general idea of how I'm going to mount the float valves:
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-9GNuAckruoE/T2KWbNHrRvI/AAAAAAAACQo/_04bCleyWos/s512/Web%2520Albums%2520App%2520Upload%2520-%25202012-03-15%25208%253A24%253A52%2520PM.jpg
I used 1/2" PVC elbows and a 1/2" PVC plug to provide a mounting point for each float. I drilled a small hole in the center of each PVC plug and screwed the float valve in. The float valve has a little rubber seal and a nut to clamp the valve down to make a watertight seal. I mounted each float and then filled each PVC plug with epoxy resin to help ensure water doesn't make its way in.
This is where the project has to stop today though -- my two jars of PVC cement were solidified, and apparently I left the lid off my PVC cleaner and it all evaporated. Lol oopps!
My basic design concept is a dual float unit, where the bottom float provides the main top off control and the top float acts as a backup to kill the circuit in case of a malfunction of the lower float. The floats switch a 5v DC power source to trigger a power relay which switches a pump on/off.
Supplies (for each unit) (all from DigiKey):
G5LA-1A4 DC5 - Omron SPST 10A NO relay with 5v DC coil - $1.46
You'll need two of EITHER OF THESE ($14.19 each):
LS01-1A66-PA-500W - Meder Normally Open Float Valve - with this type of float valve you can mount the float with the wires out the top and the float hanging below.
or
LS01-1B66-PA-500W - Meder Normally Closed Flaot Valve - I accidentally ordered this type; the circuit is closed when the float is at the end with the wires coming out; so I had to mount them upside down. durr
EPS050100-P5RP - Cheapest 5v switching wall transformer - $8.64
A bunch of PVC parts (elbows, pipe, etc)
A mounting box and wire.
Here's the general idea of how I'm going to mount the float valves:
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-9GNuAckruoE/T2KWbNHrRvI/AAAAAAAACQo/_04bCleyWos/s512/Web%2520Albums%2520App%2520Upload%2520-%25202012-03-15%25208%253A24%253A52%2520PM.jpg
I used 1/2" PVC elbows and a 1/2" PVC plug to provide a mounting point for each float. I drilled a small hole in the center of each PVC plug and screwed the float valve in. The float valve has a little rubber seal and a nut to clamp the valve down to make a watertight seal. I mounted each float and then filled each PVC plug with epoxy resin to help ensure water doesn't make its way in.
This is where the project has to stop today though -- my two jars of PVC cement were solidified, and apparently I left the lid off my PVC cleaner and it all evaporated. Lol oopps!