another what am i doing wrong

[pauld3]

i have taken all of the bio balls out of the sump on my 100 gal tank, the phosphates read 0, nitrates 20, using api test kits, use ro-di water with a tds of 1. polyps are all withdrawn, leather's is drawn up, hair algae all over the rocks. and what look like diatoms but i didnt think you got those when you used ro-di water for water changes and top off water. i feed every other day, have 1 yellow tang, 1 coral beauty, 1 4 striped damsel because I cant catch it, and a skunk shrimp. lights on 12 hrs a day, have a protein skimmer. just ordered a clean up crew from liveaquaria to get to work on the algae. fish stay hid most of the time, the shrimp is always out except after he molts. have lost a couple of fish in last couple of months, any ideas whats going on with the ha and fish hiding.

thanks paul

[stingythingy45]

What's the alkaline level?

[Stolireef]

Need way more info:
What kind of flow do you have in the tank. Return flow? Powerheads in tank?
Lighting? Type, photoperiod?
Dosing?
SG?
A problem with any of the above among a million other things could cause your results. First step is a good description of yiour setup and reef keeping approach.
Also, keep a very close eye on the angel to make sure it's not picking on your corals.

[pauld3]

using an api test kit 8 or 9

[pauld3]

have a mag drive 7 pump returning from the sump, Hydor Koralia 1050 power head in the tank, specfic gravity 1.025, not dosing anything, lights on 12 hrs and they are power compact 200 watts, originally really only wanted fish only, was given the polyps and leather and the polyps spread like fire, now they are all shriveled up. bulbs are 1 month old, there are a few aiptasias in there and even they are withdrawn.

[ssgtgonzo]

Not sure how to check, but i've heard of mag pumps having issues with stray electricity. That would definitely cause stress.

[Stolireef]

Food type/feeding schedule? Substrate?

Also, and I don't believe this is the problem, your TDS should really be 0 after the water is through the RO/DI. My water TDS starts at about 650 and finishes at 0 according to the meter. I calibrated it a few weeks ago and nothing changed so I'm pretty confident in that number.

[jcw]

Basically, your nutrients aren't being processed or exported enough.

Reduce nutrients going in (feed even less) or increase their removal.


I'm wondering outloud if your tank is mature? Or lacks enough live rock? what size tank is the protein skimmer rated for?

Dosing a carbon source (vodka, vinegar) would take those nitrates down but I would make sure the system isn't "flawed." In other words, you can cover up problems with vodka dosing.

Most likely the nitrates and phosphates are much higher but the hair algae is "exporting" it like crazy.


Oh yeah, removing ALL your bioballs at once, strips your system of the nitrifying bacteria. You may be experiencing another cycle. Check ammonia and nitrites.

[pauld3]

I removed bio balls in 1/3s and have about 120 lbs of rock, substrate is deep 2 to 3 inches, I really would like to thin the substrate out, not sure how to do that without releasing alot of bad stuff. I only feed 1 cube of brine shrimp every other day, kelp for tang stays on clip till its gone I really do believe the phosphates and nitrates are higher and hoping that the cuc can get rid of alot of the hair algae so i can get a better look at what is going on. so is the cuc the right way to go.

[robs.mark]

Your hair algae is probably exporting the phos and nitra giving you a false reading. I would reduce feedings and have your water source double checked..

[pauld3]

ok when the snails are put in and hopefully get rid of alot of the algae will the phosphate and nitrate go up and kill everything just trying to be prepared so i dont loss everything

[ezerasurfr]

A CUC is not going to resolve your problems. Like others have said, you need nutrient export. I would suggest adding GFO as a phos/nitrate control and making sure your skimmer is up to par. As for your 2-3 inch substrate, deep vacuum ~1/8 of it every week - ((but stick to that 1/8 area, dont exceed that area)) this will keep whatever gets released into the tank to a minimum. After it is totally clean, you can begin to remove some of it. Keep up on vacuuming and keep up on nutrient control via smaller feedings. Also, as someone else recommended - check your water source. A TDS meter is only about $30 and will be worth it in the end.

You'll be on the road to a clean healthy tank in no time.