Quarantine Ideas From the Best (You guys)

[Ryand63]

Looking to the best (all of you) for some thoughts on a 10 gallon quarantine. I'm looking to only have the quarantine running during the 2-3 weeks I get each new fish. Is it possible to say set it up a day or two before each new fish and just keep up with water changes, use established media/rocks/or sand? Any ideas/suggestions/comments are so much appreciated!

[ken55]

I'm still a newbie but this is what I do. Others may have better ideas. I went to Petsmart (Petco's twin) and purchased a 10g kit tank. Tank, hood, light, small hob filter packaged together. I already had a spare heater.

I run this bare bottom with a coffee cup as a hinding spot for my new fish. I check ammonia everyday. I change out a gallon of water evryday. I have at least 10g of water on hand if ammonia shows so I can do back to back 50% change if needed.

so far this has worked well for me. When done with QT the whole thing gets emptied, wiped down and chucked into a closet.

Please refer back to the first two sentences if this doesn't sound right to you.

[shifty51008]

before I had a basement setup I tore mine down al the time, all it was, was a 10 gal. tank, heater, PVC pipes for hideing spots and a sponge filter. when I wan't using it I would clean the sponge filter and put it in my sump from the main tank, when I needed it, I take it out from the main tank and put it in the QT and you have bacteria.

just make sure to clean it before putting it back in the DT/sump. don't use LR or sand.

[sponger0]

I prefer to keep the QT running in case I come home with a fish, I dont have to owrry about setting it up. Just acclimate and drop fish in and observe.

Doesnt cost much extra. Whenever I do a water change on my main tank, I take the water I removed from my main tank and use it for a water change in my QT.

Also, besides buying a fish, if one of your fish gets infected for one reason or another, your QT is already running.

[Ryand63]

Wow thanks for the quick responses! I'm taking in all your advice and going to weight out the options but I'm leaning towards tearing it down every now and then. So sufficient supplies would be 10 gallon (already have), 50 watt heater, and small HOB filter and some pvc or somethign to hide in??

[Ryand63]

One more quick question: would i want to use anything established in the tank or do i not have to worry about cycling bc i'd be doing such frequent small water changes and there would only be one fish in at time in the QT??

[ken55]

Oh yeah, I forgot a piece.... Yup, still a nebie:lolspin:

I also run an airstone for a few hours a day just to make sure their is plenty of oxygen in the water. I don't know if this helps but I don't have any reason to think it hurts. Since I don't run a skimmer and there is very little surface area with a mostly closed top it just seemed like a good idea to me.

[sponger0]

So why do you wanna teat it down? Honestly that doesnt make sense

Each time you will have to re-cycle the tank just for QT. And that includes lots of water changes and using prime.

And in an emergency, youll need to do the same.

Seems like a waste of time when you can have it running for any given reason, whether it be a new fish or a sick fish currently in your display.

[sponger0]

One more quick question: would i want to use anything established in the tank or do i not have to worry about cycling bc i'd be doing such frequent small water changes and there would only be one fish in at time in the QT??

If you leave it running, you wont need to cycle it each time

[ken55]

One more quick question: would i want to use anything established in the tank or do i not have to worry about cycling bc i'd be doing such frequent small water changes and there would only be one fish in at time in the QT??

Again, I'm probably not the best person to be answering your questions but I run mine bare bottom with no attempt to cycle. In fact, with all the "mothering" I do I'm actually trying my hardest to prevent a cycle. the cycle is loosely defined as Ammonia changing to nitrite and then nitrite to nitrate. ammonia is the quick killer among the three and I do my best to keep ammonia from building up in the first place.

Check everyday, change a gallon everyday even if nothing shows up, and be ready for when it does. It may not be the best but it's what I do.

[Ryand63]

Yeah, I guess it does make sense to keep it running...when not introducing anything for extended periods of time can I just make sure it's topped off or do I hvae to still do water changes? Also sorry for all the "newbie" questions, do you all treat the QT with preventative meds or just if you notice something?

[sponger0]

I just do water changes just to keep it clean. But yes keep it topped off. It wont hurt if you dont top off for a few days though.

And I change out 20% of the water everytime I do a water change on my display. I just use the water from my main tank, since it doesnt have to be perfect water, it wont hurt it in my purposes

[Ryand63]

Got ya. Not arguing just asking but if there is nothign in the QT for months at a time is it necessary to do water changes? Just asking so I have all my info!

[sponger0]

Ive had mine with nothing in it in months at a time. Sometimes Ill do weekely water changes and sometimes bi weekly. And sometimes I forget its even in my house lol

[ken55]

It should be noted that Sponger0 and I are talking about two different methods of QT. My method is strictly for a tank that gets set up and torn down between uses. Please do not take bits and pieces from each of us and try to mix the two. That would probably be a bad thing.

Good Luck with whichever you choose,

Ken

[Humuhumunuku]

Sponge filters are cheep, I keep one in my DT sump all the time. When I need to use the QT I fill it with water changes from the DT and drop in the sponge filter. Then I immediately put a new sponge filter in the DT to start building up bacteria. When I'm done with the QT, the sponge gets thrown away. I would prefer to keep the QT running all the time, but the space I have is better served for other purposes when I don't need the QT. Also removes the temptation to turn it into a species tank!

[MrTuskfish]

I've posted this often, assuming your DT is parasite free; its a foolproof way to instantly cycle a QT/HT.

"In regards to Qt cycling; I've done this for years. Get a HOB filter; I really like Aqua-Clear, they have a big sponge and last forever. Don't use the carbon or ceramic noodles that come with the filter. Also, have some extra sponges on hand, they're cheap. Keep a sponge in the flow somewhere in your DT. When you need a QT or HT, just use the sponge that has been in your main system in your QT filter---the QT will be instantly cycled. When done, toss the sponge and keep a new one ready in your main system.
BTW, Cupramine copper, used in a QT,will not destroy a bio-filter."

[Hal]

As several have said above, keep a sponge in your sump so it becomes populated with the good bacteria, then throw it into your QT when you want the QT to be up and running. I leave my QT setup all the time; there's really no reason to take it down except if it's an eyesore.

My other super-secret trick to a successful quarantine tank is to drop in several plastic plants to provide hiding spaces and to breakup sightlines. For me it worked better than PVC. Don't underestimate the value of breaking up sightlines. Most animals feel more "secure" when in a space that has visual boundaries, as opposed to in an open space.

[Ryand63]

Thanks for the advice guys! Do you all treat the qt regardless or just if signs are present of sickness or infection?

[sponger0]

Thanks for the advice guys! Do you all treat the qt regardless or just if signs are present of sickness or infection?

I always QT my fish. No matter who it comes from.

Sh** happens

[ken55]

The more I read and think about what ya'll are saying about the AC and some extra sponges makes me want to try this next time. It certainly sounds easier and I wouldn't have to freak out over ammonia levels the way I currently do.

Thanks everybody:thumbsup:

[Humuhumunuku]

My other super-secret trick to a successful quarantine tank is to drop in several plastic plants to provide hiding spaces and to breakup sightlines. For me it worked better than PVC. Don't underestimate the value of breaking up sightlines. Most animals feel more "secure" when in a space that has visual boundaries, as opposed to in an open space.

That's a nice idea. Should be able to disinfect them just as easily as the PVC.

[Ryand63]

I meant do you all use medications either way all the time, or just if there are signs of infection when you QT the new fish?

[sponger0]

Only during need of treatment. Otherwise the meds can cause unnecessary stress

[MrTuskfish]

I meant do you all use medications either way all the time, or just if there are signs of infection when you QT the new fish?

This is a subject of endless debate. I treat all new fish with copper (Cupramine); but I'm very familiar and comfortable with the stuff. However, I don't "push" it and understand the folks who oppose using Cu prophylacticly. I do think the 'fear" of Cu is way overblown; but again, just my opinion and experience with the stuff. It requires research to do properly. IMO, all fish should be wormed with Prazi-Pro, its easy and safe. I also like the idea of using tank-transfer to eliminate ich and treat anything else if it appears.

[Ryand63]

I was looking into the PraziPro and it looks like great stuff!

[00Warpig00]

I always use a cycled QT tank... for a combination of reasons.

I KNOW what my ammonia readings will be. This SIMPLIFIES the QT process.
Many fish are VERY SHY and TIMID during beginning of QT. having your hands in the tank to change water all the time can stress them out make them hide constantly and cause them to not eat. I have a Yellow Belly Blue Tang in QT right now that hid for several days straight when I brought him home. Finally started to come out about day 4, but would hide whenever I approached the tank. He would NOT eat. He still hides too much and I keep out of the tank unless there is a problem. (I KNOW my ammonia is 0 due to experience, observation and cycle) Finally on day 8 in QT he started to eat lightly, but still hides whenever I open the tank to feed. he is VERY SHY. If I was in the tank every 2 days changing water he would STILL be in a constant state of hiding and not be eating. Make it easy on yourself and the fish... take as many variables out of the equation as possible. He STILL hides if i even look at him and he has been in QT for 11 days. I wouldnt want him to go without food for 11 days. He nibbled some at the LFS when fed and that was it for 8 days after I bought him. Now he is eating more and more and out more and more every day. Beautiful fish. Cant wait to get a good picture of him but he hides from the camera.

If you have a cycled QT and do not overfeed your ammonia will be 0 all the time. One less thing to monitor closely and worry about.

Nick

[sponger0]

I always use a cycled QT tank... for a combination of reasons.

I KNOW what my ammonia readings will be. This SIMPLIFIES the QT process.
Many fish are VERY SHY and TIMID during beginning of QT. having your hands in the tank to change water all the time can stress them out make them hide constantly and cause them to not eat. I have a Yellow Belly Blue Tang in QT right now that hid for several days straight when I brought him home. Finally started to come out about day 4, but would hide whenever I approached the tank. He would NOT eat. He still hides too much and I keep out of the tank unless there is a problem. (I KNOW my ammonia is 0 due to experience, observation and cycle) Finally on day 8 in QT he started to eat lightly, but still hides whenever I open the tank to feed. he is VERY SHY. If I was in the tank every 2 days changing water he would STILL be in a constant state of hiding and not be eating. Make it easy on yourself and the fish... take as many variables out of the equation as possible. He STILL hides if i even look at him and he has been in QT for 11 days. I wouldnt want him to go without food for 11 days. He nibbled some at the LFS when fed and that was it for 8 days after I bought him. Now he is eating more and more and out more and more every day. Beautiful fish. Cant wait to get a good picture of him but he hides from the camera.

If you have a cycled QT and do not overfeed your ammonia will be 0 all the time. One less thing to monitor closely and worry about.

Nick

I like how you put this...but not having to worry about ammonia spikes is the reason I dont bring mine down. Just easier IMO.