UV and parasites

[benjc]

It appears I've got something (not ich) in my tank and my suspicion is uronemea. Because I don't have the time/space/desire to empty my DT and place my corals/fish in separate QT/hospital tanks, and that uronemea can survive on bacteria alone (meaning a fish-free DT won't do anything), I'm looking to keep the problem in check utilizing UV. I've purchased a 24W UV light with water passing over the light at a rate of approximately 75 gph to treat a tank with a total water volume of approxmately 70 gallons.

My question is how long should I keep the light on to address the current bacterial/viral/protozoa bloom, and after which, what would be a recommended operation frequency? And yes, I know qt, qt, qt, so no need to :deadhorse:. Thanks for the input.

[MrTuskfish]

I've sure never used UV as a cure for uronema; but but know enough about UV to make a comment. With any parasite; UV will only be effective if every single parasite passes through a UV unit with proper floe and proper bulb/sleeve maintenance (vital and more difficult than it sounds). The amount of exposure time and strength varies according to what you're trying to kill. Most parasites also have the ability to find safety in the substrate, LR, even filter media. I think that using UV to do anything but help out a little is wishful thinking. there is no way you can get all the parasites to pass through the UV. I can't imagine it eliminating, meaning 100%, of anything from a tank. IMO & IME, UV is really only valuable as an algae control and water clarity helper; of to prevent contamination between tanks in a multi-tank systems. you need a plan 'B', IMO.

Can you give a little more info on the parasite? what makes you suspect uronema?

[benjc]

I agree that UV won't completely eradicate the pathogen; instead I'm looking for control. What made me think of uronemea is input I received here on RC. A week ago I noticed what I first thought was a coral burn on the side of one of my chromis from a recently introduced frogspawn coral (first euphilia in tank). The next day the spot was a bit larger (size of a pencil eraser) and the chromis exhibited rapid breathing and suppressed appetite. That night, the chromis died. Photos I uploaded to RC led one to suspect uronemea. The following day I noticed an area of discoloration on the side of my mystery wrasse. The wrasse is now hiding much more and exhibiting a suppressed appetite also. To complicate things further, I had recently introduced a leopard wrasse which I didn't quarantine because she looked health and was eating frozen prepared foods (didn't want to lose the feeding habit). For a couple days the wrasse looked completely happy/healthy but would sleep in under the sand for the first 5 hours of the light cycle. The leopard wrasse has been missing/under the sand for the past week now...because of potential stress issues, I'm not digging through the sand looking for it. So yeah, that's where I'm currently at.

[snorvich]

I've sure never used UV as a cure for uronema; but but know enough about UV to make a comment. With any parasite; UV will only be effective if every single parasite passes through a UV unit with proper floe and proper bulb/sleeve maintenance (vital and more difficult than it sounds). The amount of exposure time and strength varies according to what you're trying to kill. Most parasites also have the ability to find safety in the substrate, LR, even filter media. I think that using UV to do anything but help out a little is wishful thinking. there is no way you can get all the parasites to pass through the UV. I can't imagine it eliminating, meaning 100%, of anything from a tank. IMO & IME, UV is really only valuable as an algae control and water clarity helper; of to prevent contamination between tanks in a multi-tank systems. you need a plan 'B', IMO.

Can you give a little more info on the parasite? what makes you suspect uronema?

What he said. But I feel that UV will do nothing towards solving the problem. The symptoms of Uronema marinum include rapid breathing, flashing and loss of color (the fish becomes pale) as well as weight loss and dehydration. However, velvet is similar and probably occurs more frequently. Treatment for Uronema often includes a 3 minute fresh water bath (also of value for velvet) followed by Nitrofurazone.

[MrTuskfish]

Another case of possible (probable) uronema starting with a chromis. I've posted about these fish a few times; something is going on with them and I would avoid them at all costs for now.

[snorvich]

Another case of possible (probable) uronema starting with a chromis. I've posted about these fish a few times; something is going on with them and I would avoid them at all costs for now.

I have heard of chromis coming in poorly most recently although I cannot say if uronema is the only issue.

[benjc]

I don't believe it is velvet because neither fish have exhibited the typical gold dusting appearance. The chromis has been in the tank for 3+ months (although that may have been how long it took for the pathogen to reproduce to fatal levels). The chromis ended up with what looked like a large sore on its side. I didn't see the same sore, but rather a small area of discoloration on the wrasse yesterday; I haven't seen the wrasse today (trying to stay out of the fish room to minimize stress and the wrasse had taken to sharing the den of a diamond goby the last couple days while sick). Tomorrow, I'm going to see where everything stands. The other question I have is if I should run my fingers through the sand to try and determine the status of the leopard wrasse.

[benjc]

A picture is worth a thousand words; here is the chromis the day before it died.
http://i1174.photobucket.com/albums/r617/benjc1/IMG_2685.jpg
http://i1174.photobucket.com/albums/r617/benjc1/IMG_2687.jpg