apex help

[rogergolf66]

Ok Monday I'm ordering a new apex controller. I need help please.

Lite or full version? What's the real difference? What can't I do with the lite version that I could do with the full version?

The breakout box for float switches, can u add any float switches?

Where to u by the water on the floor sensors for the apex?

Can I buy just any wireless gaming addaptor to connect to the internet?

Please help I have been reading on this purchase now for over 2 months tring to make up my mind and what I really need to buy. Hard to pull the trigger for $700 when u really don't know what u need.

Roger

[usfpaul82]

Just wondering. What made you decide on the apex over the reef keeper?

[Daimyo68]

You can do the same things with them both.

The differences are that the Apex Lite does not have the:

Variable Speed Ports - Nice for dimming LED's, controlling Tunze Powerheads. If you want to control those items, you would have to purchase the VDM module at $100

2nd pH/ORP Port - Nice to be able to control a Calcium Reactor if you have a that in your system or monitor ORP. Again, you would need to purchase a PM1 Module at $75

So at $175 plus shipping extra, you get all that in the Apex Full System for $499.95 (With either system, the pH probe is extra).

As for the breakout box, it can be used on either one, and you can use any 2 wire float switch. (I got mine from Grainger for $22.00, and made a DIY breakoutbox and bracket. The DIY breakoutbox really isn't that cost effective, but it's a much cleaner look rather than stripping back some wire and pushing it into the Neptune Breakoutbox).

Not sure on the wetfloor sensor as I do not have one.

The gaming adapter that I used before going back to a cable was the Netgear WNCE2001, which costs roughly $50

Hope that helps :)

/D

[rogergolf66]

Just wondering. What made you decide on the apex over the reef keeper?

Every reefer I have talked to said that the reef keeper was a ***** to setup. After setup they said it was a good controller. Also I will be travelling a lot over the next month and I want to be able to monitor and controll my tank from away.

I already have an ACII running the tank and works perfect but I am getting a new controller for the web controll

[rogergolf66]

You can do the same things with them both.

The differences are that the Apex Lite does not have the:

Variable Speed Ports - Nice for dimming LED's, controlling Tunze Powerheads. If you want to control those items, you would have to purchase the VDM module at $100

2nd pH/ORP Port - Nice to be able to control a Calcium Reactor if you have a that in your system or monitor ORP. Again, you would need to purchase a PM1 Module at $75

So at $175 plus shipping extra, you get all that in the Apex Full System for $499.95 (With either system, the pH probe is extra).

As for the breakout box, it can be used on either one, and you can use any 2 wire float switch. (I got mine from Grainger for $22.00, and made a DIY breakoutbox and bracket. The DIY breakoutbox really isn't that cost effective, but it's a much cleaner look rather than stripping back some wire and pushing it into the Neptune Breakoutbox).

Not sure on the wetfloor sensor as I do not have one.

The gaming adapter that I used before going back to a cable was the Netgear WNCE2001, which costs roughly $50

Hope that helps :)

/D

Thanks that about what I have gotten from all the ready. But really wanted to make sure I didn't miss anything. I will have to do the full version as I do have the leds to dim. Thanks

[consumed corals]

I was in your same shoes for a few months. I did not have the luxury of asking other reefers which was the best bet...But I bought the APEX and I am SO HAPPY i DID

By far and away one of the best puchases I have made.
IT IS WORTH THE MONEY, QUALITY AND RELIABILTY, MOST OF PIECE OF MIND

the full version is the way to go, as far as wet sensors I can not remeber where I got mine from, but I can not find the invoice for it.

[jk1138]

Roger, come on by today and take a look at mine. I do not think we are more than 20 or 25 minutes apart. I love my Apex and cannot imagine ever having a tank without one again!

[TriggersAmuck]

As far as water sensors go for limiting jammed float switches, I took another approach. I was manually adding top off water for the last lifetime, and so I had a pretty good idea what my daily top off volume should be. I decided to avoid stuck float switches and go with a BRS dosing pump (the 50mL per minute one, not the 1.1ml/minute) to do top off DI water. Works like a charm, and I have less fear of a manual relay (on the power bar) jamming than I do for the multitudes of things which can jam the float switches or water level sensors. (Of course having redundant detection is never a bad idea).

My program doses an equal volume of water every 12 minutes, or 5 times an hour. This of course has the big assumption that evaporation rates are equal throughout the day, which surely they are not (due to lighting, water temperature, etc). The alternative, using a float sensor, assumes that the same water level in the sump equates to the same overall volume, which is definitely not the case (due to varying levels of sock clogging resulting in varying sump volumes, overflow mesh clogging resulting in varying display tank levels, etc.)

The third method, using conductivity sensors, has even more range of inaccuracy, so while there is no perfect method, one of the first two is still probably preferable.

[rogergolf66]

Yes I have always used top off just not attached to apex or anything

[Daimyo68]

I'm sure you may be aware of this also, but just in case...

The Energy Bar 8 has 6 Triac Relays (outlets 1,2,3,5,6,7) and 2 mechanical relay outlets (outlets 4 and 8).

Low draw devices, (like Drew's Dosing Pumps, Toms Aqualifter) can cause the Triac relays to hang in the ON state even when commanded OFF, letting power continue to power whatever is plugged into the outlet. If your using a piece of equipment that has a low draw, try to put them on Outlets 4 or 8.

I had discovered this issue when I first setup and tested my ATO with dual floats switches. Luckily, I was using a table lamp to test the ON and OFF positions of the switches.

I ended up purchasing the EB4HD, since I have multiple low draw items. The EB4HD has 4 outlets, all mechanical relays.

[rogergolf66]

Thanks I did not know this very helpfull. I'm not 100 % sure I will use the apex for ato unit as I already have one that to this poing never failed me. I did like the idea of being able to control everything when I am not home though so I am considering it for sure.

Would led lights be low drraw?

[Daimyo68]

The LED's would be specific to each setup. For the most part, I want to say that you should be ok. I think nano setup's may run into a problem due to the lower amount of power being needed, but I am not sure as I haven't tried an LED set on a small tank.

My LED's use a 100w 24v power supply and 2 buckpucks to light/dim 4-20w LED's. I have the power supply plugged into an outlet with the Triac relay and have no issues.

The lowest wattage item I have (in a Triac outlet) is my skimmer pump which is 28w, and I've never had an issue with that outlet staying on.

[rogergolf66]

Roger, come on by today and take a look at mine. I do not think we are more than 20 or 25 minutes apart. I love my Apex and cannot imagine ever having a tank without one again!

I may take u up on that to get a sneak peek at how to use it. What's ur # so I can swing by? I have ordered the full version apex with the breakout box. The apex is on back order :(

[jk1138]

I may take u up on that to get a sneak peek at how to use it. What's ur # so I can swing by? I have ordered the full version apex with the breakout box. The apex is on back order :(

Sending a PM now