Hyposalinity or Cupramine? (Other methods?)

[HUNTER_0387]

Hi All,

Most of my fish in my DT are in bad shape (covered with ich) especially my blue hippo tang and yellow tang. However, all are eating very well at least 3x/day (I'm also using garlic guard, selcon, and vita-chem).


I don't want to move my fish to my quarantine tank because it's only a 40gallon QT so that means I'll be treating them in my DT (180G) instead. I'll just remove the live rocks, corals, and invertebrates to a different tank.

If they're all eating like pigs, should I risk not treating them and let their immune system fight off the ich?


I've also installed a 25W UV sterilizer a week ago. I saw the first sign of ich about two weeks ago.

Ammonia, nitrite = 0, nitrate = 0.5ppm.

PLS HELP!!!!!!

thank you

[Osteopth]

I used copper to treat all of my fish and then I left my display fallow (no fish) for 13 weeks. Since then I have used the transfer method before adding new fish. No sign of ICH even with my new Achilles Tang (notorious for Ich).<br />
<br />
Since I started using the transfer method I have thought that the safest way to treat affected fish would be to transfer them between two fully equipped large containers (30-40 gallon tubs) every 2-3 days, drying the containers, air stones, PVC hiding tubes and heaters in between. It avoids the stress of copper and hypo, and fish can be easily caught in a clear container with little stress (like at your LFS). Each transfer leaves the fish with less spots and no chance of reinfection. Theoretically they should be clean after 7 days, but I'd continue transferring for 12-14 days to be safe. Search and read about the transfer method, it works and it's awesome!<br />
<br />
<br />
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[sandwi54]

If you are able to move LR, LS, and all inverts to another tank, either method is fine. Cupramine is easier to perform as its concentration is very stable in the absence of LR and LS. Hypo would require you to manually buffer the water to prevent a pH crash.

It's your choice so just go with whatever you feel more comfortable with.

Not treating for ich is like a time bomb, and that bomb often explodes at the worst possible time (when you are away on vacation, etc.).

[snorvich]

I used copper to treat all of my fish and then I left my display fallow (no fish) for 13 weeks. Since then I have used the transfer method before adding new fish. No sign of ICH even with my new Achilles Tang (notorious for Ich).<br />
<br />
Since I started using the transfer method I have thought that the safest way to treat affected fish would be to transfer them between two fully equipped large containers (30-40 gallon tubs) every 2-3 days, drying the containers, air stones, PVC hiding tubes and heaters in between. It avoids the stress of copper and hypo, and fish can be easily caught in a clear container with little stress (like at your LFS). Each transfer leaves the fish with less spots and no chance of reinfection. Theoretically they should be clean after 7 days, but I'd continue transferring for 12-14 days to be safe. Search and read about the transfer method, it works and it's awesome!<br />
<br />
<br />
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yes, tank transfer works very well. I suggest doing the four transfers as described in our sticky protocol despite theoretically only three being required.

[MrTuskfish]

No fish can fight off indefinitely; you sure need to treat them. BTW; garlic, vitamins, and UV will not eliminate or prevent ich. When this is over, use a QT on all new fish, or you'll be doing it again. Plus, there are much deadlier parasites that can be caught in a QT.