Bottom Drilled VS Side Drilled Overflows

[Reefer Ronnie]

What are the advantages/disadvantages of both? What do you prefer?

[on the spot]

If I had my way, I'd drill the back. I'd silicone a narrow weir across 2/3 to 3/4 of the back, then silicone a drain box to the back exterior of the tank and install the plumbing to the drain box.

This gives you a near coast to coast overflow for superior surface skimming, the narrow footprint takes little space from the tank, and the drain box lets you have the narrow weir.

If you put your drain plumbing through the back of the tank, you need a much wider weir to accommodate the bulkheads.

HTH

[rrasco]

I have both types. I prefer bottom because it allows you to put the tank closer to the wall and the plumbing is more accessible from under the stand. Of course, most tanks have tempered bottoms so unless you buy a RR tank, the only option is to drill the back/side.

[Sisterlimonpot]

I perfer bottom as well, I think that a lot of times people drill the back glass because the bottom glass is usually always tempered, which means you can't drill them.

[Michigan Mike]

If I'm t mistaken 40breeders have no tempered glass at all. Bonus!

[bebangs]

Back, it just scares me to drill at the bottom.
leaks would mean to remove everything.

[Ron Reefman]

Back, it just scares me to drill at the bottom.
:uzi: leaks would mean to remove everything.

Not true at all!!! If you have a drilled bottom that is behind a weir, 98% or more of all bottom drilled tanks, you only have to lower the water to just below the weir (an inch or two). I've changed out a leaky bulkhead and repaired a cracked pvc pipe just outside a bulkhead with only draining the water from behind the weir.

[shovelrider]

You can shorten the distance to the wall by cutting the bulkhead. Remember to cut with the nut on the bulkhead so when you take it off (after cutting) it straightens the threads out so you have an easier time putting it back on.

[sponger0]

You can shorten the distance to the wall by cutting the bulkhead. Remember to cut with the nut on the bulkhead so when you take it off (after cutting) it straightens the threads out so you have an easier time putting it back on.

But you still need 3-4 inches clearing.

[Dozo]

My first RR tank will definitely be a bottom overflow. Sure it takes up a little space in the tank but IMO the whole system looks much cleaner and the water flow is straight down, no real chance for clogs and no restrictions.

[rrasco]

You can shorten the distance to the wall by cutting the bulkhead. Remember to cut with the nut on the bulkhead so when you take it off (after cutting) it straightens the threads out so you have an easier time putting it back on.

They do sell low profile bulkheads as well, so you don't have to cut them. But having both setups, I prefer my bulkheads on the bottom at this point.

[sammy77]

Can you run a Herbie setup with a bottom drilled tank?

[rrasco]

I don't see why not. I'm running a bean on my bottom drilled tank.

[sleepydoc]

Running a Herbie on my cornerflo tank - use one hole for the main drain, the other for the safety. Only disadvantage is you have to run the return up outside the tank unless you have 2 overflows. The return only takes about 1.5-2" of space, though.

[sammy77]

I don't see why not. I'm running a bean on my bottom drilled tank.

I would love to see a picture of how this is done. Are you using both holes in your overflows for drains?

[rrasco]

I would love to see a picture of how this is done. Are you using both holes in your overflows for drains?

I made sure I got a tank with enough holes to accommodate a bean drain. There are two 1" drains and two 3/4" returns. I used the 1" for the full siphon and open channel, one of the 3/4" for the dry emergency, and one 3/4" for the return.

I first went with the traditional bean design (first pic), with the T and the threaded caps, but in order to keep the plumbing from sticking out above the overflow, the water level was so low in the overflow it made a lot of noise when water fell over the overflow. Kind of defeated the purpose of a bean. So, I modified my setup to use elbows instead of the T and caps (second pic). The main reason for threaded caps on the bean is to allow for easy servicing. I can just as easily pull the entire stand pipe out of the bulkhead if I need to service it, I didn't cement them in and they still work great; even the siphon.

http://www.rrasco.com/AquaticPics/105neo/IMG_1131.JPGhttp://www.rrasco.com/AquaticPics/105neo/IMG_1159.JPG

http://www.rrasco.com/AquaticPics/105neo/IMG_0637.JPG
http://www.rrasco.com/AquaticPics/105neo/IMG_0620.JPG

[mbd521]

If I had my way, I'd drill the back. I'd silicone a narrow weir across 2/3 to 3/4 of the back, then silicone a drain box to the back exterior of the tank and install the plumbing to the drain box.

This gives you a near coast to coast overflow for superior surface skimming, the narrow footprint takes little space from the tank, and the drain box lets you have the narrow weir.

If you put your drain plumbing through the back of the tank, you need a much wider weir to accommodate the bulkheads.

HTH







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[Reefer Ronnie]

rrasco - where did you get the slotted intake fittings for the full siphon and open channel?

[Reefer Ronnie]

rrasco - thanks for posting the pics. I was wanting to do a bottom drilled bean but couldn't figure out the standpipe positions for a bottom drilled tank. Your pics makes it crystal clear.

[rrasco]

rrasco - where did you get the slotted intake fittings for the full siphon and open channel?

They are bulkhead strainers. Most online retailers should have them. I got mine from glass holes.

You're welcome.