RODI input

[jimmy_beaner]

Really considering picking up a RODI unit as I'm getting tired of driving to the fish store (30 minutes each way). Also, we found out we get precipitate flakes in our ice cubes due to how hard our water is.

I think I'm currently stuck between the SpectraPure and the Buckeye Field Supply models. Inside of those brands, there are a host of possible available units. I will be picking up a handheld TDS meter, but think a built in pressure gauge would be good as well. I'd love some input. The MaxCap unit looks really good, but is rather expensive.

http://buckeyefieldsupply.com/showproducts.asp?Category=171&Sub=166
This unit looks like I could plumb it into the sink nicely and should get a lot of the job done as well. Granted, at 6'2", I'm not sure how easy the pressure gauge would be to see under the sink.

[zigzag1]

The BRS is a good unit, and you will be glad you made the investment when can make your own water, skip the drive, and _know_ you are getting quality water with a well maintained RO/DI of your own. Most reefers don't use a pressure tank setup as you will get much better life from your DI if you make water in large batches, rather than small amounts in a pressure tank. I'd skip the pen TDS meter and get a dual inline meter too. JMTC & GL!

[Mike31154]

The buckeye systems you've linked to include a pressure tank & faucet which are nice to have accessories for drinking water, but not really essential. With a few extra fittings you could tee off a line before the DI stage & make RO drinking water as you need it. Just feed it into a potable water container.

Therefore, to save a few bucks, I'd recommend the BFS-161 Premium Series 75gpd unit. 75 gpd means slightly slower production rate, but that membrane has a higher rejection rate than the 100 gpd membrane. A lot depends on the TDS of your feed water, but with the higher RO rejection rate, your DI media will last longer when making DI for your fish tank. I always make at least a few gallons of RO water before opening the feed to the DI stage for the really pure water. This ensures the RO TDS has a chance to get as low as possible, again, saving DI capacity. A dual inline TDS meter is also a great option in addition to the handheld unit you're getting. I use my handheld to check the tap water & have a dual inline to monitor RODI production.

Don't know about MaxCap, but the guy at Buckeye is very helpful & able to provide great advice on the proper unit for you based on your tap water, chlorine, chloramine etc.

[Mavrk]

Spectrapure filters are probably the best. But you could save money and get the other systems which I can't say anything bad about (well most of them that is). Actually, there is a refurb unit at spectrapure being sold to save a few bucks. Truth is, you can always make changes later. These systems have interchangeable filters. One thing I like from spectrapure is their flow restrictor to make sure you get a 4:1 ratio. IMO their DI can't be beat and they sell .5 micron sediment filters. I have a filter guys unit that I modified and has several different filters from different companies. Forget the flush valve thing (or just don't use it), and make sure to get a pressure gauge (handheld TDS is a good idea too). Plan on changing the sediment and carbon filters every 6 months (no matter the TDS readings) and the DI usually lasts about a year. The membrane should last at leaset a few years if you change the sediment and carbon this way. Also make sure to get a 4:1 waste to product ratio or your membrane will not last as long. If your membrane is bad, you waste DI faster, which is where you lose money. If you are going to put it under the sink, then you need an adapter. The laundry room is a good place too and uses the hose adaptor thing. Feel free to ask questions. I have done tons of research on all this.

ETA: the spectrapure 90 gpd is going to be equivalent to the 75gpd from other systems. They just realize that at normal house pressure and temperature the 75gpd membrane actually produces 90gpd per the membrane manufacturer (they all use the same one, but spectrapure tests theirs).

[triggreef]

I just got a 60 gpd spectrapure from glass-holes dot com for I think $186. Comes with the pressure gauge and I also bought a dual TDS meter. My water is very hard and I thought for sure my TDS would be way up there but it only measures 093 going in and so far nothing but 000 coming out. I do need a booster pump though as my water pressure goes from 20 to 40 but no higher than 40. I just ordered one off ebay for $60.

Make sure you check all the fittings though. The one on the back that was actually together already out of the box, was leaking on startup. easy fix but it cost me a trip to the local hardware store.

heres a link http://glass-holes.com/SpectraPure-Maxpure-60-GPD-RO-DI-System-YSP1315.htm
and http://glass-holes.com/HM-Digital-In-line-Dual-TDS-Meter-RO1312.htm and http://glass-holes.com/Captive-Purity-Reverse-Osmosis-System-Flush-Valve-Kit-RO1313.htm

[Reefahholic]

I love my BRS 6 stage 75gpd....with inline TDS meter and pressure gauge.

Def get the inline TDS meter and pressure gauge. You'll love em.

Spectrapure is my second choice. It's better than what I have.

[Yedgy]

I live in Phoenix and I got a SpectraPure MaxCap system on the advice of an LFS. They're based in the area and so they build their systems to handle the crazy high (700+) TDS mineral soup that passes for tap water out here in the desert. No complaints.

[jimmy_beaner]

I was leaning away from BRS because of the 5 micron sediment filter.

I would love to put it in the laundry room, but our's is actually upstairs (which would make for a longer trip for water than I have now). I was thinking of putting it under the sink so we could have nice drinking water with the DI bypass and I could fill my 7 gallon tanks and be fine. The other question I had is basically right now I'm only working with a Biocube 29. In the future, I'd love to jump to a 150 - 350 gallon tank. I worry that 20 gallons at a time might wear the filters instead of doing the long runs.