Very Frustrated First Time Plumber Needs Help

[Multiham]

Taking a break as I was losing my patience.

Have a 30 Gallon Deep Blue Pro Reef Ready Tank with 1 inch drain and 3/4 inch return. Have an Elite Aquatics Sump and a Deep Blue Pro Stand. The bulkheads that came with the tank were barb.

Based upon my reading about plumbing, I decided to go the PVC route instead of flexible tubing. Purchased new slip to slip bulkheads and sch 80 pvc piping.

Now for the frustration that I'm hoping to get help with!

It is only 12 inches from the drain bulkhead to the connector for the filter sock on the sump. It is NOT straight down, instead it is off by about an inch. I do not have room in the cabinet to move the sump so that it is a perfectly straight drop from the drain bulkhead to the connector for the sump.

Questions

Is there anything I can do to make this work with PVC or do I need to switch to flexible tubing?

If I have to switch to flexible tubing, I'm confused about one thing. I have 3/4 inch and 1 inch braided flexible tubing from BRS. The 3/4 inch fits perfectly on the barb for the return bulkhead, but the 1 inch is too small for the barb on the drain bulkhead. How is that possible.

Thanks!

[shaginwagon13]

I think I have an idea of what your talking about, is it possible for you to take a picture? To be honest 12 inches is a good distance your going to need to buy a couple 45 degree joints if you wanna making this work. In all honesty I would use flex tubing for this. Was there a specific reason you wanted to stay away from the flex tubing? There is nothing wrong with using flex tubing for the connections between your overflows and the bulkhead connection on the sump. Lots of people use this method, I have seen it done with tanks 400+ gallons large.


On a side note, Sch.40 piping is more then adequate especially if used on the overflow piping. Post some pics so so we can try and help you out a little more.

[chris s]

Another option maybe some flexible pvc. Also called spaflex. HD and Lowes both carry it.

But I agree with shaginwagon13 there is nothing wrong with some flexible hose. Plus the long sweeping bends you get with flexible hose flow better than solid pipe and 45 or 90 degree elbows.

[kriv4o]

MarineDepot sells flex tubing that you can glue to standard PVC fittings or take the "two 45 deg fittings" route as mentioned above. For 12" I'd go with the flex option. Just my 0.02

[kriv4o]

MarineDepot sells flex tubing that you can glue to standard PVC fittings or take the "two 45 deg fittings" route as mentioned above. For 12" I'd go with the flex option. Just my 0.02

Or you can try to heat up the PVC a little bit so you can bent it to fit. I have seen it done on one of the tanks in the large tanks forum but I haven't done it myself.

[RDuhb]

Mine is going to be a hybrid. I plan on using rigid PVC from the bulkheads to just about even with the bottom of the tank. Then I'm going to switch to flex tubing to route to the inlets and return pump in the sump. Reason: I like the look of the ridid PVC coming off the back of the tank, but I don't want to screw around with it in the sump area.

[Multiham]

Thank you everyone for the quick help!!

Switched over to flex tubing. I have the braided nylon tubing from BRS.

Here is my latest problem. After 2 hours of working great, I developed a leak in the return line where the tubing connects to the barb on the return bulk head. It is a good tight fit with the tubing going up as high as possible and using a plastic ratchet clamp to make sure it stays on.

Any suggestions?

Thanks!

[RGrycki]

I tend to shy away from hose clamps on barbed fittings. They will squeeze the tube except in one small area below the tightening mechanism and will cause leaks. Just make sure the hose is the right size for the barb. Nice and tight.

[Multiham]

Hose is really tight. Took me 5 minutes to get it on. Actually had to heat the hose for a minute (boiling water) to get it to fit.

[sasharotty]

Hose is really tight. Took me 5 minutes to get it on. Actually had to heat the hose for a minute (boiling water) to get it to fit.

Hmm, should just be snug. Think you have the wrong size tube? Ive always used correct size tube/barb with a worm gear clamp never a problem.

[RGrycki]

You should get a good seal with a connection that tight. Ditch the clamp and cut out the section of tube you used it on so that it is not warped and you get a clean joint. Over 50% of the barbed connections I have used a clamp on have leaked. I have tried the plastic with ratchett, worm gear style, and even tie wraps. I have a return pump connected with a 1 inch barb and no clamps with well over 10 feet of head on this connection and no leaks in the last six months.

[Multiham]

Have tried the following this morning without luck.

I have cut off about 3 inches of the hose to get "fresh" hose to make the connection. The hose is 3/4 inch braided and the bulkhead is 3/4 inch barbed. Fit is tight. This is my return line.

I have tried it with and without a clamp. I have tried pushing the hose as high up on the barbs as possible and have tried it with the hose just over a couple of the ribs. No matter what I do, I am getting a leak at the top of the hose. Hard to see in the picture, but the leak is right at the top of the hose. If I push the hose further up on the barb, I still get the leak at the top of the hose.

I've taken a couple of pictures to show the connection.

Help appreciated!!!

http://i1235.photobucket.com/albums/ff434/multiham/DSC_0153.jpg
http://i1235.photobucket.com/albums/ff434/multiham/DSC_0152.jpg

[jjvanb]

Maybe your bulkhead is the leak, do you always have the hose connected? Try leaving it disconnected for a while and see if you get any drips.

Check for any crack in the bulkhead/barb?

Could also try teflon tape around the barb, but from the pictures it looks like the hose is pretty snug.

[dropin]

have you tried putting a coating of silcone onthe barb and then forcing the hose on.let it cure for about for about 30 minutes. then try turning the return pump back on.

[Guss]

As a plumber by trade the tubing needs to be on all the way to ensure a seal a stainless steel clamp can be added for extra security,(mine all have them) you can try lubing it with a small amount of silicone to help get it on all they way (food safe of course)If you dont have access to that KY Jelly will do the trick and is safe to use.

[L8ndeb]

As a plumber by trade the tubing needs to be on all the way to ensure a seal a stainless steel clamp can be added for extra security,(mine all have them) you can try lubing it with a small amount of silicone to help get it on all they way (food safe of course)If you dont have access to that KY Jelly will do the trick and is safe to use.

What Guss said....just isn't on far enough. IF in fact you are sure it is the hose to barb connection and not something else.

[Multiham]

If it is the bulkhead that is bad, I have a slip to slip I could put in its place. My question then is what do I need to attach to the slip bulk head to allow me to attach the flexible hose.

Thanks!

[Guss]

can you get a pic of it... sounds like it will have to be adapted down to fit the hose you want to use

[Curtis.H]

Is the bulkhead fitting cracked? New or used? They tend to get brittle and crack with age. Or maybe you just got one that was defective when it was made.

[freeswimmingfis]

When you put the bulkhead in, is the rubber gasket on the wet side?
If not it should be.
If the gasket is on the outside, on the nut side you will get a small, dripping leak.

[Sk8r]

Several things to know:
1. a hairdryer can soften a stubborn hose so it will go on. If trying to connect to a bulkhead, best hold it away and soften it a lot so as not to crack the glass.
2. you do not have to use a lot of teflon tape---a couple or three winds is often enough.
3. Do not permanently glue any pipe you can avoid gluing. Use hose clamps. And remember to put them on the hose BEFORE you work your hose on.
4. Metal hose clamps are ok so long as they are not exposed to salt water. THere are plastic hose clamps for hoses that are.
5. a hose barb is your friend. They do need hose clamps to make sure they don't leak. But they're good. Having enough 1" two ended hose barbs is a good thing.
6. and a plumber can tell you best on this---but a right angle bend is an invitation to a clog. I have had very good luck with hose rather than fixed pipe.
7. don't just look at the not-matching parts at the hardware and despair. Look at what you can make from assembling them. I have several fittings that start male, go to female, then size up to something else...get creative. Ask your hardware guy.

[bebangs]

heat the pvc then bend it. (see youtube videos how to do it)

if you still want to go to flexible tube route, try teflon? not sure if it will work. worth a try but i think that's what steel clamp are for.