Meanwell LDD driver: for those who want to dim to 0 using Arduino

[Chalu]

Did you find anything out about this? What current are you drawing over them?

I am installing a new timeclock system at work. They are PoE and the documentations says they use 12VDC at 700mA. So I am thinking maybe that is not too much current.

Come to really think about it, the 6 pair cable I used for my LED strings is not all that different from Cat5 pairs. I really would like to use Cat5 for everything as it's cheap, easy, and the cables are readily available almost anywhere now.

Good reminder, almost forgot about it... I will try to talk to the engineers in the next day or two.

FWIW the max load in my setup is 1400ma @ 48V, running xml's... has been running for the last one year.. havent noticed any heating or anything different even in 90F weather

[zachts]

I have a question to those who have been running these for a while now. How hot do they get? most similar drivers can get rather hot and as these are encased they really can't be heat sinked. Mostly I'm wondering what happens to the extra heat if your voltage differs from imput to output by more than a few volts if you run a few drivers with less leds than the rest for different colors or what not.

Putting them somewhere with air flow from a fan probably solves any possible issues but just wondering.

these really seem Ideal esspecially if you get the wired ones. You could use waterproof wire nuts for connections and never worry about mosture damageing them, ever!

[Chalu]

I have a question to those who have been running these for a while now. How hot do they get? most similar drivers can get rather hot and as these are encased they really can't be heat sinked. Mostly I'm wondering what happens to the extra heat if your voltage differs from imput to output by more than a few volts if you run a few drivers with less leds than the rest for different colors or what not.

Putting them somewhere with air flow from a fan probably solves any possible issues but just wondering.

these really seem Ideal esspecially if you get the wired ones. You could use waterproof wire nuts for connections and never worry about mosture damageing them, ever!

Air circulation is always a good idea to keep things cool. its cheap insurance against a fire hazard, no spark to start a fire :lmao:

[one clownfish]

Sorry to side track the thread but I don't think he accepts PM's. @ bhazard451, did you buy the pre assembled controller or did you build it yourself? It looks like it would be a perfect addition to my build. I have six channels I'd like to control or I can combine NW & CW and have five. Any help would be appreciated.

[PeteStewardson]

Hi rrasco. Sorry this is my first post on RC but you've been doing what I've been trying to draw up for a while with LDD-H drivers. Do you mind if I have some made up from your files? I'm in the UK so not sure I can use Itead, would another company understand the copper flood part of the drawings enough to make the correct boards?

Pete

[rrasco]

Absolutely. Use them as you please.

I can't say if these will work for other board houses. I do believe they *should*, but I did use itead's rule check and CAM processor to generate the files so they might not. However, if you find a board house you want to use they should have guidelines for producing gerber files, which can be completed using the BRD and SCH files I posted on Google Code. It's actually a really simple process. Having said that, itead is in China and they ship to the US. I don't see why being in the UK would be a problem for you.

The copper pour is a standard process so they shouldn't have any problem with that either.

[bhazard451]

Sorry to side track the thread but I don't think he accepts PM's. @ bhazard451, did you buy the pre assembled controller or did you build it yourself? It looks like it would be a perfect addition to my build. I have six channels I'd like to control or I can combine NW & CW and have five. Any help would be appreciated.

It is the controller that is used in the first post of the thread. It is called the Jarduino, and the guy included a manual on what parts you need, and how to build it. Parts come out to around $50.

[one clownfish]

It is the controller that is used in the first post of the thread. It is called the Jarduino, and the guy included a manual on what parts you need, and how to build it. Parts come out to around $50.

Thanks. I'll order from his parts list instead of ordering it already assembled on ebay.

[O2Surplus]

Well it looks like these little drivers are a very popular item. I just got a call from PowerGate LLC informing me that the drivers I had ordered won't be available until the end of January. The caller wanted to know if I'd like to cancel my order because of this news. I told them to let my order stand because "My companies R&D department has plenty of other projects to work on right now. We can afford to wait." LOL

[pwreef]

You can no longer order what I have in the video because itead stopped manufacturing their v1.1 ITDB02 shield with RTC. The new v2.0 does not have RTC. You need a shield between the Arduino mainboard and the LCD screen that has the proper resistors + RTC shield. What you see on e-bay as what you assume as 'assembled' controller, is not a controller. Its just a sandwich consisting of 3 boards: LCD screen, ITDB02 shield and the Mega 2560 board. You still need to add a RTC clock to it somehow + take off the proper pins to connect to the drivers + all other things that Jarduino can do such as controlling outlets and attaching temperature sensors. Then of course you will have to add the code to it and make sure that you specify the correct pins for the hardware. Then it will be a 'controller'. :-)

[Jooce01]

Bhazard, can you PM me about the parts for the Jarduino, I'm having trouble finding the correct shield, and want to make sure the one I'm planning on using will work before ordering it.

I can't seem to PM you, otherwise I would :D

[SeaMonkey4]

I ordered the shield v2.0 and the 3.2 TFT LCD from elecfreaks. I am also trying to build this controller.

[007Bond]

Did you find anything out about this? What current are you drawing over them?

I am installing a new timeclock system at work. They are PoE and the documentations says they use 12VDC at 700mA. So I am thinking maybe that is not too much current.

Come to really think about it, the 6 pair cable I used for my LED strings is not all that different from Cat5 pairs. I really would like to use Cat5 for everything as it's cheap, easy, and the cables are readily available almost anywhere now.

Watching for the answer also. :) Great information thread!!

[dread240]

should be 577ma maximum current for cat5 per conductor according to the charts

Length of wire and makeup (stranded or solid) all factor into it as well...

The larger POE current loads you guys are referring to are using more then 1 pair to transfer power. Some devices I've seen are listed up to 51W but are using 4 pairs to transfer that power

[rrasco]

should be 577ma maximum current for cat5 per conductor according to the charts

Length of wire and makeup (stranded or solid) all factor into it as well...

The larger POE current loads you guys are referring to are using more then 1 pair to transfer power. Some devices I've seen are listed up to 51W but are using 4 pairs to transfer that power

Good point. IIRC, I believe data uses 2 pairs and the other 2 are for PoE.

With the 6 pair cable I have now, I technically have and could run them at 700mA, but I only did that during testing and they only draw around 350mA at their current setting.

[Chalu]

Per the engineer I talked to he basically confirmed what the Cat5's are rated for - 60V @.7a; however he did mention that its unlikely the wires will heat upto 2amps; however the longer the cable the more voltage loss.. but for our applications where only a few feet of cable is used he said its a non issue; and ofcourse there was the disclaimer about the wire heating up at higher amps question ;)

He also recommended cat6 over cat5 if possible, as it has lower AWG.. more copper less resistance at higher currents so less heat. Did a quick check on the net and it seems to rhyme with what others have posted.

[PeteStewardson]

Absolutely. Use them as you please.

I can't say if these will work for other board houses. I do believe they *should*, but I did use itead's rule check and CAM processor to generate the files so they might not. However, if you find a board house you want to use they should have guidelines for producing gerber files, which can be completed using the BRD and SCH files I posted on Google Code. It's actually a really simple process. Having said that, itead is in China and they ship to the US. I don't see why being in the UK would be a problem for you.

The copper pour is a standard process so they shouldn't have any problem with that either.

Thank you. I was thinking of a couple of mods but haven't got the hang of Eagle. It's harder than I thought lol

[rrasco]

Per the engineer I talked to he basically confirmed what the Cat5's are rated for - 60V @.7a; however he did mention that its unlikely the wires will heat upto 2amps; however the longer the cable the more voltage loss.. but for our applications where only a few feet of cable is used he said its a non issue; and ofcourse there was the disclaimer about the wire heating up at higher amps question ;)

He also recommended cat6 over cat5 if possible, as it has lower AWG.. more copper less resistance at higher currents so less heat. Did a quick check on the net and it seems to rhyme with what others have posted.

Thanks for that. I think I will use them on my lower current FOWLR systems.

Thank you. I was thinking of a couple of mods but haven't got the hang of Eagle. It's harder than I thought lol

No problem. I learned Eagle by using tutorials on Youtube. There is a really good 12-part series on there that teaches you most of the basics.

Here you go, Part 1: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qG0O9LKH-_E

[dread240]

Chassis wiring increases amperage ratings by a very large amount

[glarior]

WOW.... the LDD-100H & LDD-700H are sold out now. Least they left me with one power supply lol.

Everything ordered! Going to be a fun build :dance:

Thanks everyone for the information, files and URLs!

[rrasco]

I was checking stocks earlier this week. I'm worried these will be unavailable at times like the CAT4101 were. I hope not.

[bhazard451]

The boards I ordered were just shipped. Now for the 2-3 week airmail wait.

[ef8crxman]

The boards I ordered were just shipped. Now for the 2-3 week airmail wait.

That's awesome! When did you order your boards?

[O2Surplus]

I was bored at work today, so I drew this up. It's a Pcb that will fit up to 4 of either the LDD-L or LDD-H, or a combination of the two. Since the LDD-L has a lower input voltage rating, there's separate power inputs for each type.

Take a look, I'll post the build files if there's an interest.

http://i861.photobucket.com/albums/ab172/kovawa/LDD-Dualdriver.png

[rrasco]

Haha. Interestingly nice. Looks good. Only thing I would interject my opinion on would be the supply traces. They are big, so it probably isn't much of an issue, but I try to avoid 90 degree turns on traces. Just a personal preference really.

[O2Surplus]

Haha. Interestingly nice. Looks good. Only thing I would interject my opinion on would be the supply traces. They are big, so it probably isn't much of an issue, but I try to avoid 90 degree turns on traces. Just a personal preference really.

Haha- I use big traces so the electrons don't get "bunched up" in those 90 degree corners,LOL.

I just threw this design out there, so people can utilize either driver with their minimum order of 10 PCB's LOL.

[rrasco]

It was a great idea.

[megadeth72]

Is there a 5xldd-1000h board? I'm completely unfamiliar with ordering pcb's so this will be my first try

these can run off a 12v 5 amp power supply cant they?

[rrasco]

No there is not. 5 would not fit on a 10x5. The board size would have to be increased.

In theory, yes you could run 5 LLD-1000H off a 12v 5 amp power supply, but that would be if you had about 3 LEDs per driver. When you factor in that power supplies are not 100% efficient, it would be unwise to ask that of the unit.

You need to match the voltage to the number of LEDs you want per string. I would personally also shoot for a power supply capable of more like 6, 7, or 8 amps.

This is, of course, all in theory because no 5xLDD board exists yet. Not to my knowledge at least.

[megadeth72]

I could use a 4x board and just let the 5th hang, no biggy

I'm running 36v x1000ma down each driver, so I would need a 36v power supply minimum? I think 48 is the nearest

[O2Surplus]

I could use a 4x board and just let the 5th hang, no biggy

I'm running 36v x1000ma down each driver, so I would need a 36v power supply minimum? I think 48 is the nearest

megadeth72-

If you need a PCB with 5 LDD's just let me know and I'll draw one up for you.
A batch 10cm x 10cm PCB from Itead only costs about $25, so it's not a bad deal.

[O2Surplus]

Here's a PCB with 5 LDD-H on a standard 10cm x 10cm board. Let me know if you like it and I'll finish it up for You.

http://i861.photobucket.com/albums/ab172/kovawa/5upLDD-H.png

[Whitebeam]

Here's a PCB with 5 LDD-H on a standard 10cm x 10cm board. Let me know if you like it and I'll finish it up for You.


Now that's the board I need! If anyone in the UK gets any of these made and has a spare, give me a call please!

Peter

[megadeth72]

that looks great, if you finish it I'll order some

[007Bond]

Me to,... is what I would use for the Dream Chip. Thank You O2.---Rick

[megadeth72]

same here, for a dreamchip

[dwolson2]

same here, for a dreamchip

Mine are for the dream chip too...lol

[O2Surplus]

OK- I'll finish it up sometime this weekend and post all the build files.

[rrasco]

What current does the dream chip run at? I have been hearing a lot about it, but have not dove into the discussion just yet.

Is it really, a dream chip? From what I understand it's a wide spectrum unit?

[rrasco]

dbl

[Dave Thebrewguy]

What current does the dream chip run at? I have been hearing a lot about it, but have not dove into the discussion just yet.

Is it really, a dream chip? From what I understand it's a wide spectrum unit?

I followed it at first but gave up, it may be somebody's dream but it is certainly not mine. IIRC, it's 40% RB 40% CW (split between 2 temperatures, but both CW) and 20% violet. It's a slight improvement over a straight CW/RB chip but there's still plenty of room for improvement. There are versions for 50W and 100W last I heard.

[megadeth72]

dream chip for me, compared to everything else out there. If I could change it, i would run 10 less 10k and 10 6500 instead and maybe some red, not sure how that would pan out though, I dont like blue, the dreamchip's are a pretty white chip from what I've seen, which is what I like

you can run 1400ma if your cooling supports it, I'll be running 1000ma but probably dimmed to around 700

20 x 10000K
20 x 455nm (blue, beneficial to chlorophyll C)
10 x 420nm, 10 x 430nm (UV range)
20 x 445nm (blue, beneficial to chlorophyll C)
20 x 15000K

[bhazard451]

dream chip for me, compared to everything else out there. If I could change it, i would run 10 less 10k and 10 6500 instead and maybe some red, not sure how that would pan out though, I dont like blue, the dreamchip's are a pretty white chip from what I've seen, which is what I like


That's the main issue with those chips. You can't change the layout to something more preferable. IMO the changes you want would make the chip look even better.

A 5 LDD board would probably be perfect for it.

[zachts]

Here's just a hair brained thought. Can you combine the outputs of the LDDs to say drive an XML at 2 amps? I didn't see any info from meanwell that says you can't, didn't see anything that says you can either :)

[megadeth72]

That's the main issue with those chips. You can't change the layout to something more preferable. IMO the changes you want would make the chip look even better.

A 5 LDD board would probably be perfect for it.

I'm running a pendant, so I always have that problem

there will probably be more of these type chips coming out, there's already a copy of it being sold with the same layout

[dwolson2]

I am running 2 of the chips, so I am going to use 3 boards(2*5=10 channels, and the 2 extra will be for my reds and greens)
That said, it has a little room for improvement, but considering the 60led hybrid chips are 90~$ and the 50led "dream" chips were 63~, and I didn't need as much power and the hybrid is capable, I went for the dream chip. At least I can adjust to what color I want with the dream chip as opposed to being stuck with whatever color I get.

To answer your question, the Peak for the 50 is 700ma where the 100 is 1.4A(I think) the recommended is 600ma for the 50 and 1A for the 100. I will be using 10- LDD-H 600 and 2-LDD-H 700's for my red and greens.

[O2Surplus]

OK- Here it is all finished up. I've attached the PCB (.brd) file along with the Schematic (.sch) and Parts list ( there's a link to Mouser for the screw headers) in one folder.

I also attached the gerber files needed for PCB production @ Itead Studio. Just follow their instructions to rename the files with your order number.


http://i861.photobucket.com/albums/ab172/kovawa/5UP-LDD_HPcb.png

[megadeth72]

is there a howto on ordering? I"m on the ilead site and totally lost

[007Bond]

O2, question...why is there not a connection shown for the - in on the ldd from the PS.? Thanks---Rick

[O2Surplus]

O2, question...why is there not a connection shown for the - in on the ldd from the PS.? Thanks---Rick

It doesn't show up in the image, but the entire top and bottom side of the PCB share a common ground plane. So the VIN- of each LDD and the negative of each screw terminal gets soldered directly to that. It's a common PCB design practice that saves etching additional ground traces.

[007Bond]

I see! Education is a great thing. Thanks

[O2Surplus]

is there a howto on ordering? I"m on the ilead site and totally lost

Go here- http://imall.iteadstudio.com/open-pcb/pcb-prototyping.html

Click on the 10cm x 10cm board option to add it to you "Cart" and follow the instructions. All you really have to do is rename the Gerber file Zip Folder that I posted to include your order # and Email it to them here - pcb@iteadstudio.com

[megadeth72]

These the right options?

green 2 sided
1mm thick
HASL

[O2Surplus]

These the right options?

green 2 sided
1mm thick
HASL

Yes- but go with the 1.6mm thickness option. It doesn't add to the cost, so you'll get a stronger board that way.

[stzim]

O2, Is your latest board design LDD-H only? I think your idea of a dual LDD-L & LDD-H version was inspired! :)

Steve

[O2Surplus]

O2, Is your latest board design LDD-H only? I think your idea of a dual LDD-L & LDD-H version was inspired! :)

Steve

Hey Thanks. I'll finish that one up and post the build files for it too.

[O2Surplus]

Here are the files for the MeanWell LDD-H&L Driver. It's a bit larger than 50mm x 100mm size, So make sure to use the 10cm x 10cm size when ordering.

http://i861.photobucket.com/albums/ab172/kovawa/LDD-Dualdriver.png

[Chatouille]

If anyone has spare PCB’s for the LDD-H’s, would be interested in 2 boards.
PM me if available.

[stzim]

I have sent off an order for the dual PCBs. Will update when these have arrived via UPS.

[glarior]

Anyone have power gate call them? Nice people, called me and asked about the business and I told them what I do which is not related to electronics. Said no problem, if you need more items just give them a call. They also sent two awesome books with their products. Very high quality books.

Everything has arrived... just waiting for PCB boards. They emailed me last Thursday... said allow 3-4 business days then shipping time....

[O2Surplus]

Anyone have power gate call them? Nice people, called me and asked about the business and I told them what I do which is not related to electronics. Said no problem, if you need more items just give them a call. They also sent two awesome books with their products. Very high quality books.

Everything has arrived... just waiting for PCB boards. They emailed me last Thursday... said allow 3-4 business days then shipping time....

Yeah- Nice people. They were actually surprised when I agreed to wait until the end of January for my (20) LDD-1000H to ship. the lady I spoke with said "Well you're the nicest customer that I've dealt with all day." She went on to explain that there's been a sudden surge in demand for the LDD's that their purchasers didn't see coming. I wonder how that happened? :rollface:

[ef8crxman]

Yeah- Nice people. They were actually surprised when I agreed to wait until the end of January for my (20) LDD-1000H to ship. the lady I spoke with said "Well you're the nicest customer that I've dealt with all day." She went on to explain that there's been a sudden surge in demand for the LDD's that their purchasers didn't see coming. I wonder how that happened? :rollface:

When I first posted about Powergate last Tuesday, they called and asked if I would need more. I told them expect a increase in sales of the ldd's as I had told everyone of them on a forum. He asked what I was doing with them and told them they are for a aquarium lights that we are all building. Great place to deal with.

[glarior]

She went on to explain that there's been a sudden surge in demand for the LDD's that their purchasers didn't see coming. I wonder how that happened? :rollface:

:lol2: Who knew lol

[stzim]

Any advise on which power supply to use and how to size them?

[bhazard451]

Any advise on which power supply to use and how to size them?

Any switchable power supply off ebay at 48v would work well. My favorite is a 350w 48v selling on ebay for around $35 located in the US. Hard to beat that... I had to order direct from Hong Kong for a 400w for $40. I also have fingers crossed it works fine, otherwise there is no way it is getting shipped back to China.

[rrasco]

Any switchable power supply off ebay at 48v would work well. My favorite is a 350w 48v selling on ebay for around $35 located in the US. Hard to beat that... I had to order direct from Hong Kong for a 400w for $40. I also have fingers crossed it works fine, otherwise there is no way it is getting shipped back to China.

I bought one from Hong Kong that was a meanwell knock off. Been doing great for me. I should probably get a backup, just in case though. Especially since I just posted this.

[rrasco]

Any advise on which power supply to use and how to size them?

You have two things: voltage and current. Voltage is the forward voltage of each LED on the string added up. So if you had six 3.5v LEDs in series, that would be 21v. You would need at power supply to accommodate this voltage. With current, each string will pull a set amount of current. Depending on your LEDs and drivers, this can range from 350mA, 700mA, or 1000mA (aka 1A). Multiply your driving current by the number of strings you have. So if you had six of the six LED strings I referenced above running at 700mA, you would need a power supply capable of 4.2A. When efficiency is factored in (meaning a power supply won't ever produce as much power as it says) you want to overshoot the 4.2A, and go for more like 5-6A. If a 4.2A power supply is only 80% efficient, it would only be capable of providing 3.36A; thus not enough. So oversize a little bit for current. Try to match voltage as best you can. HTH

[glarior]

I bought a meanwell se-350-48 from powergate for $45

[glarior]

FYI to everyone

Placed my order Dec 6th for the PCB from itead. Sent Gerber files, they responded they have been recieved. Today Dec 13th they have shipped. See how long it takes to get here. I think I should have upgraded the shipping because I can't wait to try this....

[rrasco]

I bought a meanwell se-350-48 from powergate for $45

Good buy. About what I ended up paying for my knockoff, then waiting weeks to get it. I'll def buy a meanwell next time. The knockoffs are considerably lighter.

[dwolson2]

FYI to everyone

Placed my order Dec 6th for the PCB from itead. Sent Gerber files, they responded they have been recieved. Today Dec 13th they have shipped. See how long it takes to get here. I think I should have upgraded the shipping because I can't wait to try this....

I ordered mine on the 7th, but haven't gotten a shipping notice yet. I did spring for the better shipping so LMK when you get them and we can compare which is the best way to go:rollface:

[glarior]

I ordered mine on the 7th, but haven't gotten a shipping notice yet. I did spring for the better shipping so LMK when you get them and we can compare which is the best way to go:rollface:

I will post back when I get them....

[Whitebeam]

I'm currently thinking of how to lay out my multi-chip LEDs to be driven from my LDD1000Hs. I would like to put the chips down in blocks and common the grounds returning to the drivers. Is this possible with the LDDs, or are they actually driving + and - volts on their outputs?

Peter

[dread240]

seperate, you cannot put vout - to vin -

[ef8crxman]

Was hoping someone could just make sure that I am ordering the correct power supply for my setup. I will have 2 ldd-1000h running 12 XT-E royal blues for each driver. 1 ldd-1000h running 12 XP-G warm whites. 1 ldd-600h running 4 Plillips reds, 4 XP-E greens and 8 Ultra violets.

3-ldd-1000H
1-ldd-600H

24x 3.4 volts= 81.6 volts or 40.8 volts per driver
12x 3.15 volts= 18.9 volts
4x 2.4 volts= 9.6 volts
4x 3.0 volts= 12 volts
8x 3.5 volts= 28 volts

Would the Meanwell 48.0V @ 7.30A 350 Watts power supply work?

Thanks in advanced!

[Whitebeam]

seperate, you cannot put vout - to vin -

I'm not asking to put Vout- to Vin-, I'm asking if I can common more than one Vout-.

Peter

[rrasco]

I'm not asking to put Vout- to Vin-, I'm asking if I can common more than one Vout-.

Peter

I don't think so.

[dread240]

Yup will work fine for the power supply...grouping vout negatives in theory should work because the positives would still be isolated so no current should flow.. I however would not try it and would not really save you anything in the long run

[Whitebeam]

...would not really save you anything in the long run

It would allow me to mount 4 x 10W multichip's a bit closer together to help avoid the disco on the sandbed, that's all.

Peter

[O2Surplus]

Looky what I found- It's a X-Ray image of an LDD-1000H. Looks fairly simple, but no component values can be seen. Considering that they only cost $5 each, I think some " exploratory surgery" may be in order. http://www.aqualogo.ru/phpbb2/index.php?act=Attach&type=post&id=112689

[dwolson2]

Are you thinking of making your own LDD driver? basically make a board with so many in's, and outs and controls? That could be cool!

[O2Surplus]

Are you thinking of making your own LDD driver? basically make a board with so many in's, and outs and controls? That could be cool!


Sort of, well maybe. LOL. I don't like "black mystery boxes", So I'm just curious to see what's inside it. I doubt that I could create a copy that would be cheaper than the original though. MeanWell can afford to by the individual components by the millions at volume discount, while I'd end up blowing half their $5 selling price just on the PCB alone.LOL

[dwolson2]

Sort of, well maybe. LOL. I don't like "black mystery boxes", So I'm just curious to see what's inside it. I doubt that I could create a copy that would be cheaper than the original though. MeanWell can afford to by the individual components by the millions at volume discount, while I'd end up blowing half their $5 selling price just on the PCB alone.LOL

lol, it would be cool though to try to make a custom driver that had multiple channels like that(forgive me if its already a reality)

[O2Surplus]

lol, it would be cool though to try to make a custom driver that had multiple channels like that(forgive me if its already a reality)

That's essentially what we've done in this thread. We're using multiple LDD's on one PCB powered by a single power supply. It's hard to make it any more simple than that. We used to have to resort to using multiple Onsemi CAT4101's to get more "channels" but they were limited to 25 volts, so driving 6 -7 leds was all they could do. These LDD's cost about the same as a CAT4101 (including support components) but can drive twice as many leds. Talk about being cost effective. The only thing that I wish MeanWell could incorporate into the LDD product line would be higher current operation with a manual current adjustment. Until they do, ( I give it 6 months, LOL) I'll continue using LM3409 based drivers for high current applications.

[rrasco]

That's essentially what we've done in this thread. We're using multiple LDD's on one PCB powered by a single power supply. It's hard to make it any more simple than that. We used to have to resort to using multiple Onsemi CAT4101's to get more "channels" but they were limited to 25 volts, so driving 6 -7 leds was all they could do. These LDD's cost about the same as a CAT4101 (including support components) but can drive twice as many leds. Talk about being cost effective. The only thing that I wish MeanWell could incorporate into the LDD product line would be higher current operation with a manual current adjustment. Until they do, ( I give it 6 months, LOL) I'll continue using LM3409 based drivers for high current applications.

I still prefer the CAT4101 from a price perspective. It's only one resistor and two caps per driver. I normally buy from Mouser, so my LDDs are a little more expensive, but I get my orders next day via UPS Ground so I prefer them. The voltage is the limiting factor though.

I used two LDDs in a T5 retrofit because I didn't want to build a CAT board. These are seeming more attractive though. If they can stay stocked.

[megadeth72]

This one would give someone an idea how they are doing it, I use a couple of these, they are full output unless the pwm is hooked up or grounded, these are not rated for a very high load

it can do 35v at 1500ma I'm using it on a 10w actinic over my freshwater tank, makes those neon tetra color up

http://www.sure-electronics.net/download/LE-LL14113_Schematic.pdf
http://www.sure-electronics.net/download/LE-LL11114_Ver1.0_EN.pdf

[O2Surplus]

I still prefer the CAT4101 from a price perspective. It's only one resistor and two caps per driver. I normally buy from Mouser, so my LDDs are a little more expensive, but I get my orders next day via UPS Ground so I prefer them. The voltage is the limiting factor though.

I used two LDDs in a T5 retrofit because I didn't want to build a CAT board. These are seeming more attractive though. If they can stay stocked.

I still love my CAT's. I've had 15 of them driving 90 XR-E's on my tank for the last three years. But they are "yesterday's tech" and time has marched on. The LDD will most likely replace the CATs in any my future LOW current led builds and I'll still reach for an LM3409 for the HIGH current stuff.

[pwreef]

Inside LDD-H driver is essentially this: http://www.kosmodrom.com.ua/pdf/MBI6661GSD.pdf with some capacitors, induction coil and resistors. There is a Chinese knockoff on ebay. Search for MBI6651. Its equivalent to LDD-L.

[Skinnysloth]

Inside LDD-H driver is essentially this: http://www.kosmodrom.com.ua/pdf/MBI6661GSD.pdf with some capacitors, induction coil and resistors. There is a Chinese knockoff on ebay. Search for MBI6651. Its equivalent to LDD-L.

Thanks for the heads up. I may have to purchase some of these as the Meanwell LDDs aren't as readily available.

[O2Surplus]

Inside LDD-H driver is essentially this: http://www.kosmodrom.com.ua/pdf/MBI6661GSD.pdf with some capacitors, induction coil and resistors. There is a Chinese knockoff on ebay. Search for MBI6651. Its equivalent to LDD-L.

I looked at the FleaBay offerings. Buyer Beware- those knock-offs don't offer anywhere near the same performance as the LDD. The best one I could find was only a 10 watt model. The ldd-1000h is rated to around 50 watts, give or take. I'd spend the money on the LDD's not the more expensive knock-offs.

[megadeth72]

I have the one made by sure with the mib6651 it's not marketed for more than 10w, i use it with 10w leds, it is just the older chip, it's a well built driver, and I'm not sure it's a knock off, they have been around for quite some time

http://www.ledlabs.ru/pdf/macroblock/mbi6651.pdf

looks like the chip can run 36v at 1000ma I have not tried, I dont have a 36v led to test with

[megadeth72]

hmm well it seems the meanwell ldd-h and ldd-l are the knockoffs, the sure drivers were on the market nearly 3 years before the meanwell drivers came out

really bothers me when people call something a knockoff when it clearly isn't

[O2Surplus]

hmm well it seems the meanwell ldd-h and ldd-l are the knockoffs, the sure drivers were on the market nearly 3 years before the meanwell drivers came out

really bothers me when people call something a knockoff when it clearly isn't

The LDD's may use the same control chip as the Sure Electronics drivers that you posted, but when the specs of the two drivers are compared, The Meanwell offering is superior to the Sure Electronics version. MY point was, If you're going to spend $5 on a driver, why not buy the most performance for the money?
The LDD is newer, and granted could very well be a "knock off" of the Sure Electronics driver. But until somebody cuts one open to identify the chip, we won't know.

[megadeth72]

dont need to the ldd-h uses the newer step down chip, the newer chip can handle more volts and amps

if your using less than 36x1000ma the sure driver should work, I don't have anything here to test that with

[zachts]

Has anyone tried using more than one LDD to power a high current LED yet. still haven't found any info on if they can do that.

the Sure Electonics drivers can. that's how they get the 1400ma version, they just stack two 700ma drivers on top of one another with header pins. these little boards are fun to tinker with as you can buy the one watt version and soder on additional resistors to get them up to 1050ma.

It would sure be nice if you could get higher amperage using parrel drivers with the LDDs since they are nicely water proofed! one less component to worry about when hanging over salt water!

[stzim]

Got my batch of dual driver PCBs last night. The package arrived 30 minutes before the tracking e-mail from ITead Studio. ;)

Look good?

Will dust off my soldering station this week and start the build. Just missing the power supply at this point.

[stzim]

and thanks again O2 for the design.

[O2Surplus]

That PCB looks good. You're welcome, I'm glad I could help.

[rrasco]

Sweet.

[rott]

DHL tried to deliver mine last night but I wasn't home so I will get them today I used rrasco files.I have a few extra pm me for details. If anyone has extra LDD-H please msg me.

[rrasco]

Good deal. I'd like to see them if you don't mind posting pics.

[rott]

sure will thanks for making it

[bhazard451]

Awesome! Mine should take another week or two.

[bhazard451]

DHL tried to deliver mine last night but I wasn't home so I will get them today I used rrasco files.I have a few extra pm me for details. If anyone has extra LDD-H please msg me.

Circumventing the restrictions on your account is not a good idea.

[rott]

wish the guy would of just left them on the porch or somewhere by the door..dosnt matter I don't have the ldd drivers and every one is out of stock. I was able to find a several places in china that have crape loads of them just don't want to order 12 @ a time was some thing like $57 (4.80 each) plus shipping

[bhazard451]

wish the guy would of just left them on the porch or somewhere by the door..dosnt matter I don't have the ldd drivers and every one is out of stock. I was able to find a several places in china that have crape loads of them just don't want to order 12 @ a time was some thing like $57 (4.80 each) plus shipping

Thats why I'm offering to give you some of mine for a board or two. I have some 1000HW and possibly a few 700H and 600H leftover.

[rott]

you have mail

[bhazard451]

Sweet. I can finish my build much quicker now. I'm hoping to finish the entire 60" fixture by New Years, wired and running. I cannot wait to play around with multiple LDD color channels, and lunar phases. Just bought two MP40s too, so its going to be one crazy build. Just hope the power supply works.

[rrasco]

Mouser still has some 600, 700, and 1000H in stock.

[iced98lx]

Mouser still has some 600, 700, and 1000H in stock.

The 700's are $12 a piece there?!

First, THANKS to everyone who is providing some thought into this and special thanks to 02 and rrasco for the board designs. Time to get my soldering skills back up to par.

I'm going to be driving a 'knockoff' dreamchip with LDD's and wanted to make sure I get things right. I'm going to order the 5 up 10x10 board but my LED chip has the following layout:

Channel 1) 10S x 2P 10000K 30-36VDC 700MA
Channel 2) 10S x 2P 455nm 30-36VDC 700MA
Channel 3) 10S x 420nm 30-36VDC 350MA
Channel 4) 10S x 2P 445nm 30-36VDC 700MA
Channel 5) 10S x 2P 15000K 30-36VDC 700MA

So, I was planning on LDD-700H's for every channel but channel 3, which I'll go with an LDD-350H on. Can I mix and match those on the 5 up board? The way I see it yes, but I wanted to make sure. Those that are driving 5 of these LDD's on 1 board, are you getting a 48v 8 amp power supply for each set of 5 and calling it good? I'm looking at a 36v 9.7 amp unit. Should provide some overhead and not have to run at 100%, right?

The board, especially the 5 up, they take 1 PWM per LDD, correct? Obviously the goal here is to have 5 dimmable channels for me to adjust.

TIA for all the development on all this stuff!

[O2Surplus]

The 700's are $12 a piece there?!

First, THANKS to everyone who is providing some thought into this and special thanks to 02 and rrasco for the board designs. Time to get my soldering skills back up to par.

I'm going to be driving a 'knockoff' dreamchip with LDD's and wanted to make sure I get things right. I'm going to order the 5 up 10x10 board but my LED chip has the following layout:

Channel 1) 10S x 2P 10000K 30-36VDC 700MA
Channel 2) 10S x 2P 455nm 30-36VDC 700MA
Channel 3) 10S x 420nm 30-36VDC 350MA
Channel 4) 10S x 2P 445nm 30-36VDC 700MA
Channel 5) 10S x 2P 15000K 30-36VDC 700MA

So, I was planning on LDD-700H's for every channel but channel 3, which I'll go with an LDD-350H on. Can I mix and match those on the 5 up board? The way I see it yes, but I wanted to make sure. Those that are driving 5 of these LDD's on 1 board, are you getting a 48v 8 amp power supply for each set of 5 and calling it good? I'm looking at a 36v 9.7 amp unit. Should provide some overhead and not have to run at 100%, right?

The board, especially the 5 up, they take 1 PWM per LDD, correct? Obviously the goal here is to have 5 dimmable channels for me to adjust.

TIA for all the development on all this stuff!


You can "Mix&Match" all you want. The important thing is to purchase a power supply with enough voltage and current headroom for the Led that you're driving. Since the specs listed for your led go up to 36 volts, I'd error on the side of caution and use a 48 volt supply. The 48v/8amp model would drive 3 of your led's quite comfortably.

[iced98lx]

You can "Mix&Match" all you want. The important thing is to purchase a power supply with enough voltage and current headroom for the Led that you're driving. Since the specs listed for your led go up to 36 volts, I'd error on the side of caution and use a 48 volt supply. The 48v/8amp model would drive 3 of your led's quite comfortably.

So I've added the SE-350-48 to my order, am I following you if I said I could use this power supply to drive 3 of the 5LDD boards and therefore all 3 of my pendants I'm planning?

If so, excellent, makes my shopping list pretty easy, just need to get the board order started!

[Skinnysloth]

OK- Here it is all finished up. I've attached the PCB (.brd) file along with the Schematic (.sch) and Parts list ( there's a link to Mouser for the screw headers) in one folder.

I also attached the gerber files needed for PCB production @ Itead Studio. Just follow their instructions to rename the files with your order number.


http://i861.photobucket.com/albums/ab172/kovawa/5UP-LDD_HPcb.png

Is there an alternative to using the screw headers besides soldering the wires straight to the board? I can't seem to find anyone selling the screw headers in quantities less than 50.

[iced98lx]

Is there an alternative to using the screw headers besides soldering the wires straight to the board? I can't seem to find anyone selling the screw headers in quantities less than 50.

Mouser looks like they'll do it on the part he's got specc'd in the zip but the total comes around to $61.60 just for the terminal blocks for 3 boards, plus they're back ordered!

Wonder if there are other options there.

[O2Surplus]

Is there an alternative to using the screw headers besides soldering the wires straight to the board? I can't seem to find anyone selling the screw headers in quantities less than 50.

Mouser had those in stock last month IIRC, but they're now on back order. That sucks. Give me some time and I'll redesign the board to use some more commonly available 2 position "stackable" connectors. I'll post the revised file ASAP.

[O2Surplus]

So I've added the SE-350-48 to my order, am I following you if I said I could use this power supply to drive 3 of the 5LDD boards and therefore all 3 of my pendants I'm planning?

If so, excellent, makes my shopping list pretty easy, just need to get the board order started!

Whoops! So much for doing the math in my head. LOL each of your leds will be drawing 3150ma of current. So you'll only be able to drive 2 of your leds on the 8 amp model. You'd need at least a 10 amp model to drive 3. But here's where it gets interesting. The 8 amp model is rated for 350 watts, If you can lower the output voltage on the supply enough, the current capacity at that voltage should be above 8 amps to maintain the 350 watt rating. Using a VF of 36v for your leds as a worst case scenario, each led will be consuming 112 watts. 112 x 3 =336 watts total. That's less than the 350 watt rating of your supply. This is all conjecture of course, but you never know till you try. The power supply has built in over voltage/ over current protection, so the worst that could happen is that it just shuts down until you lower the load by removing 1 led.

[iced98lx]

Mouser had those in stock last month IIRC, but they're now on back order. That sucks. Give me some time and I'll redesign the board to use some more commonly available 2 position "stackable" connectors. I'll post the revised file ASAP.

I grabbed eagle and was toying with replacing them with Molex style connectors, for instance, just trying to find a more affordable route.

Whoops! So much for doing the math in my head. LOL each of your leds will be drawing 3150ma of current. So you'll only be able to drive 2 of your leds on the 8 amp model. You'd need at least a 10 amp model to drive 3. But here's where it gets interesting. The 8 amp model is rated for 350 watts, If you can lower the output voltage on the supply enough, the current capacity at that voltage should be above 8 amps to maintain the 350 watt rating. Using a VF of 36v for your leds as a worst case scenario, each led will be consuming 112 watts. 112 x 3 =336 watts total. That's less than the 350 watt rating of your supply. This is all conjecture of course, but you never know till you try. The power supply has built in over voltage/ over current protection, so the worst that could happen is that it just shuts down until you lower the load by removing 1 led.

Yea the plan was to do 1 pendant at a time (even though various parts will be here anyway) so I can always add a 2nd power supply and use it to light the fuge if need be ;)

[rrasco]

Anything we can do to make them cheaper and easier to setup, is good. I know I am toying with the idea of RJ-45 connectors, I already have them on some other boards and they are only like $1 or $2. It will depend on what you are driving though, they can't handle too much current.

If you know of some PCB molex connectors, throw them up here.

[iced98lx]

I suppose for $27 you could go this route:

http://www.aliexpress.com/item/10pcs-lot-300V-10A-2-54mm-0-1-PCB-Universal-Screw-Terminal-Block-2P-3P-4P/514149666.html

order 3x10P in each lot- save $30 and you've got enough to do 3 boards.

[O2Surplus]

Ok- I reworked the connections to use 2 position screw terminals that can be purchased dirt cheap on FleaBay. You'll need 10 per board but they can be had for less than 25 cents each. Just look for 2 position screw terminals w/3.5mm spacing. Here' the PCB and the files needed for production at ITead are attached.

http://i861.photobucket.com/albums/ab172/kovawa/Revised5upLDD-HDriver_zps666a881e.png

[iced98lx]

Ok- I reworked the connections to use 2 position screw terminals that can be purchased dirt cheap on FleaBay. You'll need 10 per board but they can be had for less than 25 cents each. Just look for 2 position screw terminals w/3.5mm spacing. Here' the PCB and the files needed for production at ITead are attached.


Please do not link to eBay


Much better, $12 for all of them shipped for 3 boards..

[Skinnysloth]

Ok- I reworked the connections to use 2 position screw terminals that can be purchased dirt cheap on FleaBay. You'll need 10 per board but they can be had for less than 25 cents each. Just look for 2 position screw terminals w/3.5mm spacing. Here' the PCB and the files needed for production at ITead are attached.

http://i861.photobucket.com/albums/ab172/kovawa/Revised5upLDD-HDriver_zps666a881e.png

Thanks, let's hope they haven't started making my order and use these gerber files instead of the original. I ordered from ITead yesterday.

[rrasco]

I would email them. They are pretty good about responding.

[rott]

I have my boards and they look great I will post a pic in the
Morning can't figure out how to do it with my IPhone

[rott]

here are the boards I got last night in the mail. Looks great to me

[rrasco]

Awesome. Thanks for posting!

[dwolson2]

Here are the boards I got last night:
http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m589/dwolson2/IMG_20121219_172541.jpg

http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m589/dwolson2/IMG_20121219_172550.jpg

[dwolson2]

rrasco, what was the connector again for the J1 and J2?

[one clownfish]

Is anyone keeping their driver board's separate from their fixture? If so, what type of molex connector are you using from the PCB terminal block to the Leds? I'm looking for something that can be screwed down with (8) places to accommodate one board. I'm putting everything in a computer tower. I found a bunch locally on craigslist for $15-$20 with the 12V 350 watt power supplies still in them. If I use it, I can run all my fans, controller and moon lights off one PS.

[rrasco]

rrasco, what was the connector again for the J1 and J2?

Mfr Part: 1751303

Remember there is a BOM on the Google Code site.

http://code.google.com/p/meanwell-ldd-led-driver/downloads/list

[rrasco]

Is anyone keeping their driver board's separate from their fixture? If so, what type of molex connector are you using from the PCB terminal block to the Leds? I'm looking for something that can be screwed down with (8) places to accommodate one board. I'm putting everything in a computer tower. I found a bunch locally on craigslist for $15-$20 with the 12V 350 watt power supplies still in them. If I use it, I can run all my fans, controller and moon lights off one PS.

I don't have anything for this specifically, but depending on the current you are pulling, you can use cat5.

Alternatively there are tons of other connectors, from simple molex style to more advanced (and expensive) connectors. The ones I used on my first LED fixture ran about $20 for the plug and receptacle. Are you comfortable crimping pins?

[glarior]

Here are the boards I got last night Yea, its now proven it is way faster to pay the extra shipping. Mine is coming via USPS.... oh how I dislike USPS :thumbdown

dwolson2 and mine were ordered the same day. They paid for the upgraded shipping and I went cheap....

[one clownfish]

I don't have anything for this specifically, but depending on the current you are pulling, you can use cat5.

Alternatively there are tons of other connectors, from simple molex style to more advanced (and expensive) connectors. The ones I used on my first LED fixture ran about $20 for the plug and receptacle. Are you comfortable crimping pins?

I found a few but like you said, there all $20 and up. I'm good with crimping the pins. I don't think Cat5 will do it, its only 24-22awg. According to the Tables of AWG wire sizes, Maximum amps for Cat5 power transmission is .577-.92 amps. I'd like to have full range allowing me to go up to 1amp and be safe, if I wanted to. I'll keep looking and if I find a cheap solution I'll put it out there. I'll use cat5 for all of my fans.

[O2Surplus]

Yea, its now proven it is way faster to pay the extra shipping. Mine is coming via USPS.... oh how I dislike USPS :thumbdown

dwolson2 and mine were ordered the same day. They paid for the upgraded shipping and I went cheap....

LOL, Ever wonder how that "free shipping option" works in China? Here's how the first leg of the journey begins....

http://www.monkeetime.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/12/DSCF0632.jpg

[rrasco]

I found a few but like you said, there all $20 and up. I'm good with crimping the pins. I don't think Cat5 will do it, its only 24-22awg. According to the Tables of AWG wire sizes, Maximum amps for Cat5 power transmission is .577-.92 amps. I'd like to have full range allowing me to go up to 1amp and be safe, if I wanted to. I'll keep looking and if I find a cheap solution I'll put it out there. I'll use cat5 for all of my fans.

Yeah, cat5 is pretty limited. I do think it would be safe for 700mA use, but anything above that, I would be worried. I am working on some 1w systems that only run at 350mA max, so they would be ideal for that. My current designs only have them for 5v, GND, and PWM. It was for connecting a controller to a driver board.

These are the connectors I used in my first build. I just bit the bullet and went with them. If you don't need so many poles, you could use XLR connectors, they are pretty cheap. Or even mini DIN, but check the current ratings on those as well. These were for 6 different strings, so 12 pos.

Links to parts in case you are interested. Keep in mind you would still need pins as well, they don't come with them.

http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=RP17-13R-12SC%2871%29virtualkey64550000virtualkey798-RP1713R12SC71

http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=RP17A-13P-12PC%2871%29virtualkey64550000virtualkey798-RP17A-13P-12PC71

http://www.rrasco.com/AquaticPics/105neo/led/IMG_1199_sm.jpg

[VeL]

That could be a bit offtopic but I will really appreciate some help.
I am planning a new led built using LDD-700HW drivers controled by GHL Profilux computer with a LEDControl4Passive Module (http://www.aquariumcomputer.com/System__E_/Products/Illumination_technics/LED_technology/LEDControl4/ledcontrol4.html). I am not really into electronics, I built my first led project after I read quite a few info on RC and on the web. However now I got stuck on how to connect the LLD drivers to the passive module. I know how I can connect an ELN driver to it, where ELN has DIM-/DIM+, but the LLD has only a PWM DIM. Here is the graphic:
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee246/GeekPhysique/DIY%20Projects/pullup.jpg
The person who posted this suggested a 1.5k E24 Resistor instead for better dimming.
Also there is another post by a GHL person:
"The LEDControl4 passive do not produce - lets say - a "voltage level" signal.
The outputs are "switched" to ground potential (the driver - pin).
If you need a signal with an defined voltage, you need to add the voltage signal via a so called pullup resistor to each driver pin.
see: http://support.aquariumcomputer.com/downloads/Manual_LEDControl4passive_2011-02-11.pdf" Does anyone understands that better?:headwallblue:

Also I plan on running:
20x Neutral Whites XT-E at 0.7A - (2x LDD-700HW)
40x Royal Blue XT-E at 0.7A - (4x LDD-700HW)
10x OCW at 0.5A- (2x LDD-700HW)
10x Cool Blue at 0.5A - (1x LDD-700HW)
20x Violets at 0.5A - (2x LDD-700HW)
If my calculations are correct, I will need a 48v, 6.2A+, 400W+ Power Supply. My pick is Meanwell SP-480-48 (http://www.meanwell.com/search/sp-480/default.htm) Did I get it right? Thanks in advance!

[Chatouille]

Question on using multiple power supplies… If using a walwart to power arduino, and a 48vdc switching power supply to the LDD-H’s, is there any circuit isolation required? (I’ll need to connect 0v of the arduino and LED power supply for PWM dimming) This would also apply to using multiple power supplies for different banks LDD-H’s, as all 0v would be common. I realize it would be easier/better to just use one power supply for LED’s, and step down for ardunio & fans.

[O2Surplus]

Question on using multiple power supplies… If using a walwart to power arduino, and a 48vdc switching power supply to the LDD-H’s, is there any circuit isolation required? (I’ll need to connect 0v of the arduino and LED power supply for PWM dimming) This would also apply to using multiple power supplies for different banks LDD-H’s, as all 0v would be common. I realize it would be easier/better to just use one power supply for LED’s, and step down for ardunio & fans.

As long as you tie all the grounds (0V) together, everything should work fine. I've been exploring the idea of powering everything from one 48v supply, but it appears that most voltage regulators aren't rated for that high of an input voltage. I use LDO 12V and 5V regulators in a lot of my projects that can only handle up to 35V, and they get really hot when driven with only 27V. I can't even imagine how hot they'd get at 35V. There's always the option of wiring in a very high wattage resistor to drop some of the excess voltage prior to the regulator, but then excessive heating of the resistor is still an issue.
Using two different voltage sources and tying the grounds makes more sense. No excess heat and you can always leave the walwart supplying the arduino on full time. The 48 volt supply can then be switched off, when it's not needed, by either a conventional appliance timer, or via a relay under the arduino's control.

[bhazard451]

As long as you tie all the grounds (0V) together, everything should work fine. I've been exploring the idea of powering everything from one 48v supply, but it appears that most voltage regulators aren't rated for that high of an input voltage. I use LDO 12V and 5V regulators in a lot of my projects that can only handle up to 35V, and they get really hot when driven with only 27V. I can't even imagine how hot they'd get at 35V. There's always the option of wiring in a very high wattage resistor to drop some of the excess voltage prior to the regulator, but then excessive heating of the resistor is still an issue.
Using two different voltage sources and tying the grounds makes more sense. No excess heat and you can always leave the walwart supplying the arduino on full time. The 48 volt supply can then be switched off, when it's not needed, by either a conventional appliance timer, or via a relay under the arduino's control.

The step down I'm going to use is this one "DC -DC HRD Converter" that can be seen on ebay. It says it is capable of handling up to 50v down to 12v, which would run my fans. I would be placing it on the heatsink next to a fan, so hopefully heat won't be an issue. I also grabbed a 9v one to power the arduino. I would really like to have a one power cord setup, so I had to bump up to a 500w 48v power supply capable of 10amps.

[Chatouille]

Wasn't sure how things worked with switching power supplies when running them in parallel with a common ground. I just didn't want to get myself into problems. I've seen regular power supplies run in series and parallel, but don't know enough about switching supplies. I would guess that you would still need to tie in the grounds, THEN adjust voltage on each supply for what you want/need, as ground isn't really ground, but rather a reference signal correct? (which now could be different than it was now that they are combined)

I plan to use a LM2576HV to step down for my arduino... they are rated for up to 60v input, and "suppose" to be able to adjust from 1.25v to 25v output. They are a little more expensive than the HRD DC-DC converters, but more flexible.

Sorry for the all the questions, just trying to understand better before I do things. With the regular meanwell drivers everyone used, everything was isolated from each other. Here with the LDD's, things are a bit different if multiple power supplies are used. I mean you still need to complete the path for each circuit... if the PWM's path doesn't get back to the arduino, it would be like trying to clap with one hand.

[O2Surplus]

Sorry for the all the questions, just trying to understand better before I do things. With the regular meanwell drivers everyone used, everything was isolated from each other. Here with the LDD's, things are a bit different if multiple power supplies are used. I mean you still need to complete the path for each circuit... if the PWM's path doesn't get back to the arduino, it would be like trying to clap with one hand.

No apologies are needed. This Forum is built for asking questions, and your question may lead to answers for someone with the same question. All circuits have to be closed for current to flow. Sharing a common ground among all your electronic components assures that each one "sees" the same 0v "reference"and the potential for spurious low voltage signal "noise" is kept to a minimum.

[O2Surplus]

I plan to use a LM2576HV to step down for my arduino... they are rated for up to 60v input, and "suppose" to be able to adjust from 1.25v to 25v output. They are a little more expensive than the HRD DC-DC converters, but more flexible.



Wow- Thanks for posting that regulator. They're a little pricey, but they are a good compact solution to providing multiple voltages on the one PCB. They come in the TO-263-5 package which is the same package as the OnSemi CAT4101. I'm going to start using that regulator in place of the Texas Instruments UA78XX that I'm using now. Thanks again!

[Chatouille]

Wow- Thanks for posting that regulator. They're a little pricey, but they are a good compact solution to providing multiple voltages on the one PCB. They come in the TO-263-5 package which is the same package as the OnSemi CAT4101. I'm going to start using that regulator in place of the Texas Instruments UA78XX that I'm using now. Thanks again!

I'm hoping it works as well as advertised, I'm waiting for mine to arrive to play with. I really like the flexiblity & efficiency it has.

I guess my concern was the way that a switching power supply would react with a common ground, and with the voltage differences, if any line noise, or grounding loop were a potential. (along with possible equipment damage) Always concerned when working with things that are powered from multiple sources.

[bhazard451]

How sweet is this?

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a124/bhazard/IMG_20121221_193312.jpg

Thanks very much to everyone here for making this possible. I think it looks great! Very professional looking and can make a clean installation.

I won't be able to test it until everything is wired up, which will probably be within a few weeks.

[O2Surplus]

Nice!

[Chatouille]

Bhazard451-

lol... you know that's not right dangling that in front of everyone. Now I need more!!! Enjoyed your input on various threads, and looking forward to your build thread. (yup... you already committed by showing the pic.) Forget the Christmas lights.... Reef lights are good year 'round.

Did you ever replace your TFT? I ordered from the same place as you for the screen, and hope I have a little better luck.

[007Bond]

Has anyone tried using more than one LDD to power a high current LED yet. still haven't found any info on if they can do that.

the Sure Electonics drivers can. that's how they get the 1400ma version, they just stack two 700ma drivers on top of one another with header pins. these little boards are fun to tinker with as you can buy the one watt version and soder on additional resistors to get them up to 1050ma.

It would sure be nice if you could get higher amperage using parrel drivers with the LDDs since they are nicely water proofed! one less component to worry about when hanging over salt water!

Anyone have some input to "zachts" question on paralleling LDD's?---Rick

[Promazine]

Ok- I reworked the connections to use 2 position screw terminals that can be purchased dirt cheap on FleaBay. You'll need 10 per board but they can be had for less than 25 cents each. Just look for 2 position screw terminals w/3.5mm spacing. Here' the PCB and the files needed for production at ITead are attached.

http://i861.photobucket.com/albums/ab172/kovawa/Revised5upLDD-HDriver_zps666a881e.png

This is excellent - thanks very much!

One thing that may be a good addition, these drivers clip into 24 pin DIL sockets - coud the pcb be designed to suit them? This way driver swaps/upgrades will be very easy if one blows, or you want to run a string at a different current.

[rrasco]

Are you sure they work with a socket?

[O2Surplus]

This is excellent - thanks very much!

One thing that may be a good addition, these drivers clip into 24 pin DIL sockets - could the pcb be designed to suit them? This way driver swaps/upgrades will be very easy if one blows, or you want to run a string at a different current.

Thanks for the compliment. The PCB doesn't need to be modified to install the chip holders. Just buy DIL24-6 holders (for machined pins) and snip off the unused legs before soldering them down to the board. Something similar to this should work-


http://media.digikey.com/photos/Mill-Max%20Mfg%20Photos/110-44-624-41-001000_sml.jpg

[Promazine]

Thanks for the compliment. The PCB doesn't need to be modified to install the chip holders. Just buy DIL24-6 holders (for machined pins) and snip off the unused legs before soldering them down to the board. Something similar to this should work-


http://media.digikey.com/photos/Mill-Max%20Mfg%20Photos/110-44-624-41-001000_sml.jpg

Of course - the simplest answer, and most obvious!!
My excuse is that I'm new to all this and and didn't know if that was possible. Honest :headwallblue:

[anatoly.z]

That could be a bit offtopic but I will really appreciate some help.
I am planning a new led built using LDD-700HW drivers controled by GHL Profilux computer with a LEDControl4Passive Module (http://www.aquariumcomputer.com/System__E_/Products/Illumination_technics/LED_technology/LEDControl4/ledcontrol4.html).


Hello VeL you are on the right way.
Just tested 2 kOm resistor (think 1,5 kOm will be ok as well) with 12 volts power source and its working but the voltage of output signal by oscilloscope is about 12 volts. Even you use 10 v. the output signal will be about 10 v.
LDD drivers need about 6 volts.
So, my last solution is to use a zener diode in addition to resisor. Diode should be connected to the groung and to the signal. Zener diode should be for 5,6 volts (BZX55C5V6).
good luck

[one clownfish]

I've had my LDD's for a while and now I have my PCB's thanks to dwolson2. I was careful soldering the terminal blocks and LDD pins to the PCB. I made sure only one pin was soldered and not touching the pin next to it. I was looking at the front of the LDD and now I'm not sure if the pins that are connected with a line need to be soldered together? Any help would be appreciated.

[xenia outbreak]

If anyone has any spare LDD-H x 4 pcb boards, I would be happy to pay whatever makes it worth your while to send me one. I'm just trying to save myself the hassle of the whole ordering process when all I need is 1 board. I was planning a "simple build" involving led multichips, LDD-H drivers, and a typhon boostled controller when I came upon this thread. I was going to get the wired LDD-H drivers but using the PCB board seems like a great idea that would really clean up the light fixture.

[tdb320reef]

How sweet is this?

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a124/bhazard/IMG_20121221_193312.jpg

Thanks very much to everyone here for making this possible. I think it looks great! Very professional looking and can make a clean installation.

I won't be able to test it until everything is wired up, which will probably be within a few weeks.

Yes, it went together very well. Thanks again!

http://images.cpucs.com/images/lddboard.jpg

[Photobug]

I will be trying to run a display and frag tank lights.

I could use a 6 LDD control board or two fours if anyone has extras.

[daplatapus]

I too would like to get some of these boards. 2-4driver boards would be good. I'm also trying to find some LDD-1000H but can't find any other than the ones on mouser for $12 each. Anyone have another supplier?

[nemosworld]

All ldd-1000h are on back order. Atleast that's what I am running into.

[daplatapus]

Yeah, I've got a few emails out but have heard nothing yet either. I saw a while back someone ask about whether these fit on a protoshield for an Arduino. Has anyone tried this and if so how many can you fit on one?

[Giga]

Wow this is a Great thread most likly gonna go this route when I get the the LEDs in my new tank

[nemosworld]

WOW! it's 11:46 am x-mas eve and my door bell rings, wife open door see's no one, look down and it's my package, 3 LDD-700H, did not expect that on xmas eve. Good Job UPS!

[rrasco]

Haha, yeah, I got my dosing pumps in this morning too. Great surprise cuz stuff from china just says expected delivery 12/21/12-1/10/13 and you never get any real time updates either.

[dread240]

I've found that I get shipments from china, korea or taiwan way faster then I get stuff from the west coast :(

Some of those chinese sellers with free shipping could be shipping me livestock it gets here so fast lol

[Photobug]

I am hoping to use the LDD drivers to control my lighting needs. I am still fuzzy on the math. Can someone help me out with the formulas for determining my needs.

I am looking to run two rows of LEDs to supplement T5s on my 90 gallon display tank. I am also setting up a small frag tank I am setting up with staight LEDs or 2 T5 and LEDs. I am hoping to run a string of

Display Tank:
White LEDs
Royal Blue LEDs
Blue LEDs
Exotic Leds

Frag Tank will be simpler:
2-3 strings of LEDs

I am still determining which LEDs I am going to use. Can someone help me out with the math? Based on Cree XM-L and XP-G LEDs just for example, how do I determine which drivers and power supply I will need? Is there any problem if I buy a large power supply with excess capacity?

[bhazard451]

I am hoping to use the LDD drivers to control my lighting needs. I am still fuzzy on the math. Can someone help me out with the formulas for determining my needs.

I am looking to run two rows of LEDs to supplement T5s on my 90 gallon display tank. I am also setting up a small frag tank I am setting up with staight LEDs or 2 T5 and LEDs. I am hoping to run a string of

Display Tank:
White LEDs
Royal Blue LEDs
Blue LEDs
Exotic Leds

Frag Tank will be simpler:
2-3 strings of LEDs

I am still determining which LEDs I am going to use. Can someone help me out with the math? Based on Cree XM-L and XP-G LEDs just for example, how do I determine which drivers and power supply I will need? Is there any problem if I buy a large power supply with excess capacity?

It all depends on how many leds you need, and how many channels you want to run.

The most cost efficient use of these drivers, is to run a string of ~12 leds per driver. That would equal out to ~48 volts. You would then buy a 48v switching power supply with however many amps you need.

Cree XT-E leds would best be used with LDD-1000H
"Exotics" and Violets would best be used with LDD-600H or 700H.
Cree XM-L would be a waste for 1000mah.
You want excess capacity.

[bhazard451]

Wow this is a Great thread most likly gonna go this route when I get the the LEDs in my new tank

Yep. It already puts my Mean Well ELN-60-48-D build to shame, and costs less. That build was pretty nice too.

Very helpful thread, and it will enable a lot of people to have some clean, beautiful looking DIY setups.

[ef8crxman]

Just a quick update for everyone that ordered boards and shipped them USPS. I received my boards that rrasco put up for everyone today in the mail! Hope everyone has a great holiday.


I have extra boards if anyone wants them.

[daplatapus]

Just a quick update for everyone that ordered boards and shipped them USPS. I received my boards that rrasco put up for everyone today in the mail! Hope everyone has a great holiday.


I have extra boards if anyone wants them.


PM'd

[rott]

Anyone have any extra ldd-1000 or 700 will trade for 4 driver boards or buy

[dwolson2]

I was careful soldering the terminal blocks and LDD pins to the PCB. I made sure only one pin was soldered and not touching the pin next to it. I was looking at the front of the LDD and now I'm not sure if the pins that are connected with a line need to be soldered together? Any help would be appreciated.

Bump, I assume they can be soldered together, since they are connected(by checking with an Ohm meter) but can you/should you solder them together?

[Dave Thebrewguy]

Bump, I assume they can be soldered together, since they are connected(by checking with an Ohm meter) but can you/should you solder them together?
Do you mean the two Vin+ and two Vin-, etc? Yes, solder both of them. It doesn't really matter, but using both won't hurt and it has a few advantages.

Wow!! I've been away from this thread for a while and have missed alot! I may have to get some boards as soon as I figure out which version I need. If anyone has excess boards available for four LDD-Hs, let me know, I could use 2 or 3 of them. My next project will require 4 to 6 LDD-Ls so if anyone has an LDD-L board available let me know as well.

[one clownfish]

[QUOTE=Dave Thebrewguy;21019181]Do you mean the two Vin+ and two Vin-, etc? Yes, solder both of them. It doesn't really matter, but using both won't hurt and it has a few advantages.

Yes thats exactly what were talking about, Vin - & + and Vout - & +. There connected on the front of the LDD by a line. I'll connect them but what are the advantages of connecting them?

For those of you that are thinking of buying the assembled Arduino 2560, TFT shield and LCD to control your LDD's, don't buy it from Sainsmart. The pin outs are wrong for the shield so you can't use a RTC with it. Back to the drawing board.

[Chatouille]

[QUOTE=Dave Thebrewguy;21019181]
For those of you that are thinking of buying the assembled Arduino 2560, TFT shield and LCD to control your LDD's, don't buy it from Sainsmart. The pin outs are wrong for the shield so you can't use a RTC with it. Back to the drawing board.

Are you talking about for Jarduino? There are a few ppl that have reported to have used the sainsmart TFT/Shield. (I believe bhazard451 for one) The biggest complaint I've seen was due to quality.... or rather the lack of.

[bhazard451]

[QUOTE=Dave Thebrewguy;21019181]Do you mean the two Vin+ and two Vin-, etc? Yes, solder both of them. It doesn't really matter, but using both won't hurt and it has a few advantages.

Yes thats exactly what were talking about, Vin - & + and Vout - & +. There connected on the front of the LDD by a line. I'll connect them but what are the advantages of connecting them?

For those of you that are thinking of buying the assembled Arduino 2560, TFT shield and LCD to control your LDD's, don't buy it from Sainsmart. The pin outs are wrong for the shield so you can't use a RTC with it. Back to the drawing board.

I have an RTC module hooked up to it just fine. Re-check your pins.

The quality of the lcd screen is crap though. Mine broke within a few days. I bought a different lcd and its been flawless.

[Photobug]

The most cost efficient use of these drivers, is to run a string of ~12 leds per driver. That would equal out to ~48 volts. You would then buy a 48v switching power supply with however many amps you need.


Can I vary this? I was plan on getting a 350W 48V driver. But do not want to run that many LEDs per string. I am planning on running 28 lights in total over my display tank of which only one string will have 10 LEDs on it, some much less. Should I get a power supply with less voltage to run smaller strings. Or is there a way to run smaller strings off a higher voltage supply?



Cree XT-E leds would best be used with LDD-1000H
"Exotics" and Violets would best be used with LDD-600H or 700H.
Cree XM-L would be a waste for 1000mah.
You want excess capacity.

Is this based on the amperage each type of bulb can handle? I am planning on running this off an DIY controller with PWM control. Would it not be just easier to use all LDD 100Hs (provided I can find some) to simplify the build relying PWM to keep the amperage in line with each LED strings capacity?

[007Bond]

For those of you that are thinking of buying the assembled Arduino 2560, TFT shield and LCD to control your LDD's, don't buy it from Sainsmart. The pin outs are wrong for the shield so you can't use a RTC with it. Back to the drawing board.

Interesting... How are you suppose to set time for different functions?

[megadeth72]

I'm using the sainsmart combo, I had to require two pins

http://www.geekopolis.com/Other/2012/i-jTHd4Jz/0/L/PTDC0018-L.jpg

[007Bond]

[QUOTE=one clownfish;21019306]

I have an RTC module hooked up to it just fine. Re-check your pins.

The quality of the lcd screen is crap though. Mine broke within a few days. I bought a different lcd and its been flawless.

What lcd did you end up using?

[Dave Thebrewguy]

Can I vary this? I was plan on getting a 350W 48V driver. But do not want to run that many LEDs per string. I am planning on running 28 lights in total over my display tank of which only one string will have 10 LEDs on it, some much less. Should I get a power supply with less voltage to run smaller strings. Or is there a way to run smaller strings off a higher voltage supply?




Is this based on the amperage each type of bulb can handle? I am planning on running this off an DIY controller with PWM control. Would it not be just easier to use all LDD 100Hs (provided I can find some) to simplify the build relying PWM to keep the amperage in line with each LED strings capacity?
You can use LDD-1000Hs for everything if you want but I wouldn't do it. The LDD defaults to full power if PWM signal is lost, if a connection comes loose you will be putting 1000mA into emitters that might not be able to handle it. The LDDs are made with a variety of output currents, the safest way to build is to match the driver to the LEDS.

[xenia outbreak]

Just a quick update for everyone that ordered boards and shipped them USPS. I received my boards that rrasco put up for everyone today in the mail! Hope everyone has a great holiday.


I have extra boards if anyone wants them.

I would love to get one of those boards from you. I tried PM'ing you but I guess I'm not allowed. If you would be willing to PM me sometime I'd be grateful. Happy Holidays!

[Chatouille]

I'm using the sainsmart combo, I had to require two pins

http://www.geekopolis.com/Other/2012/i-jTHd4Jz/0/L/PTDC0018-L.jpg

I *believe* this mod is to get the SD card working properly with the mega 2560, and has nothing to do with adding a RTC module.

[megadeth72]

yeah your right, my rtc worked fine

[bhazard451]

Ahh I know why mine worked. Try soldering to the bottom of the Arduino Mega instead of the shield.

[Photobug]

The LDDs are made with a variety of output currents, the safest way to build is to match the driver to the LEDS.

I know the LDD 1000 are a different size than the others and I have 2 PCBs lined up for the. Are all the smaller LDDs the same size or would i need to make a PCB for the 600 and one for the 700 size if I were to use them?

[Skinnysloth]

I know the LDD 1000 are a different size than the others and I have 2 PCBs lined up for the. Are all the smaller LDDs the same size or would i need to make a PCB for the 600 and one for the 700 size if I were to use them?

All the different LDD-H are the same size. The LDD-L are smaller.

[Photobug]

All the different LDD-H are the same size. The LDD-L are smaller.

Thanks I see it now. All amperage outputs are available in either H or L, so I can put an 1000H and a 700H and 600H on the same PCB.

Now I just need to figure out how to run shorter strings on a 48V power supply.

[Dave Thebrewguy]

There is no LDD_1000L, the LDD-Ls max out at 36V and the highest current is the LDD-700L.

You'll be fine with that power supply, the strings can be as short as 1 emitters in most cases. The LDD-H series can adjust from 2 to 45V output when run on a 48V power supply. I'm running 2 parralel strings of 2 emitters on a LDD-300H for my moonlights with no issues.

[Photobug]

Thanks Dave and all else to answer my quesitons, I think I have it figured out now. I have learned a lot in the last 24 hrs.

If you put this much effort in your tank lights, I wonder what your brew rig looks like?

[rrasco]

Do you mean the two Vin+ and two Vin-, etc? Yes, solder both of them. It doesn't really matter, but using both won't hurt and it has a few advantages.

Yes thats exactly what were talking about, Vin - & + and Vout - & +. There connected on the front of the LDD by a line. I'll connect them but what are the advantages of connecting them?

I'm not sure I follow what you guys are trying to figure out. The two vin+ pins are connected via a trace, as well as the other pins that have duplicates. I don't know why they have duplicate pins, but they do. Just solder all the pins on the LDD to the board and you're good to go.

[one clownfish]

Thanks, that's perfect.

[Chalu]

[QUOTE=one clownfish;21019306]

I have an RTC module hooked up to it just fine. Re-check your pins.

The quality of the lcd screen is crap though. Mine broke within a few days. I bought a different lcd and its been flawless.

@bhazard451

I cant get the RTC to work with the Sainsmart 2560 board... my early conclusion was it my minimal electronic/coding skills... glad to know I'm not that dumb. Need some help if you are willing... Cant PM you, anyway I can take this conversation offline? I can start a new thread or email works fine also.

Edit: I'm not even using the LCD shield.. anyone else can help plz, greatly appreciated!

Once I have this figured out I plan a build end of Jan for my fuge and sump :wavehand:

[Photobug]

You'll be fine with that power supply, the strings can be as short as 1 emitters in most cases. .

Chock up one more advantage for the LDD drivers. For the cost of $12 or less you can get a separate string of lights as opposed to another meanwell driver for $30 or more. Also more flexibility being able to run one LED or 12 on a string, as opposed to an ELN driver which has a maximum and minimum LEDs per power supply.

[Dave Thebrewguy]

Chock up one more advantage for the LDD drivers. For the cost of $12 or less you can get a separate string of lights as opposed to another meanwell driver for $30 or more. Also more flexibility being able to run one LED or 12 on a string, as opposed to an ELN driver which has a maximum and minimum LEDs per power supply.

LOL, it's even better than that. On a 56 volt power supply the LDD-H can put out up to 52 volts. My Luxeons all seem to have a Vf of 3 to 3.06, you could put 16 of them on a string.

[glarior]

Finally received my PCB's. They were mailed December 14 and received Dec 26th via USPS. So, takes an extra week vs the other shipping methods from itead.

Can''t wait to put everything together! :beer:

[Photobug]

LOL, it's even better than that. On a 56 volt power supply the LDD-H can put out up to 52 volts. My Luxeons all seem to have a Vf of 3 to 3.06, you could put 16 of them on a string.

If do not know if I will ever have a string that long because I want control of each individual colors, but if it is possible to put on or two LEDs on a string for the cost of a LDD controller and you are limited only by the Voltage of the power supply, is there a reason not to buy a 56 volt power supply?

I am thinking of overbuilding for future proofing things. I am thinking of my next tank. I am working on my next tank, I mean my next next tank.:rollface:

[bhazard451]

If do not know if I will ever have a string that long because I want control of each individual colors, but if it is possible to put on or two LEDs on a string for the cost of a LDD controller and you are limited only by the Voltage of the power supply, is there a reason not to buy a 56 volt power supply?

I am thinking of overbuilding for future proofing things. I am thinking of my next tank. I am working on my next tank, I mean my next next tank.:rollface:

You would be better off with a 12v or 24v power supply. They are constant voltage, so they will always be sending the voltage despite the number of leds.

If you bought a 48v power supply and only hooked up two leds, they would explode in seconds. You have to divide ps voltage by the fv of the leds you use to see how many you should run on a string. 48v/3.0fv = ~16 leds max. 12v/3.0fv= ~4 leds. Its a waste of an LDD-H though, as they can handle 48v.

[jgwinner]

[QUOTE=Photobug;21025778]If do not know if I will ever have a string that long because I want control of each individual colors, but if it is possible to put on or two LEDs on a string for the cost of a LDD controller and you are limited only by the Voltage of the power supply, is there a reason not to buy a 56 volt power supply?
[QUOTE]

The biggest issue is efficiency - if you put the minimum number of LED's, checking the charts, you end up with a low efficiency.

The LDD is a current limiting device, the voltage won't be the max across the LED; that's why they call it a DC to DC converter. It's also a voltage to current converter.

Basically the thing will get hot if you don't have the optimal number of LED's.

== John ==

[O2Surplus]

The biggest issue is efficiency - if you put the minimum number of LED's, checking the charts, you end up with a low efficiency.

The LDD is a current limiting device, the voltage won't be the max across the LED; that's why they call it a DC to DC converter. It's also a voltage to current converter.

Basically the thing will get hot if you don't have the optimal number of LED's.

== John ==

+1 The LDD doesn't provide a "free lunch" electronically speaking. Forcing the LDD to drop too much voltage will cause it to get hot, as the "left over" electricity has to go some where, and that "somewhere" is heat. It's best practice to try to closely match the supply voltage to your led's strings required voltage for optimum efficiency.

[megadeth72]

uhh it's not using a resistor to drop voltage

[jgwinner]

Well, if you want to get REALLY technical - no.

It is using resistance though, but as a side effect.

It's probably not a linear regulator. It is almost certainly using a switching mode voltage regulator. Although the switching is fast, there are some losses - and the more often it has to switch to reduce the voltage to keep the current steady, the more the loss builds up. There's always a little hysteresis with any semi-conductor switch.

Basically, the thing will turn on or off a transistor (of some sort or another) to switch voltage into a capacitor. As the transistor is either off or on, there's very little loss (resistance), but the switch time has a 'ramp' which will have some loss.

Like with any regulator, the thing will get hot the more work it has to do. Depending on the technology, it may be LESS hot than a plain resistor or linear regulator - yes.

Anyway ... my dilemna is that I want to be able to 'sequence' the pods in my setup across the tank, so I need to run a 4/2/1/1/2 setup (4 RB, 2 NW(or CW), 1 T, 1 R, 2 V). I'm planning on 8 of these pods on my 120G, but for now, I'm just doing 4 (I still have a 250W MH on the tank).

So, here's the thing - if I dim each pod separatly, then I need to run 1 T, 1 R, and 2V each on their own separate 600mw LDD.

I'm using 19.5V old Dell laptop power supplies for this (it's amazing how consultants beat up the wires).

The other options was maybe running the RB and NW's on their own separate controllers, and lump all the exotic LED's under just one controller for each bank. In other words, all the T, R, and Violet LED's on their own controller, across the 2' width of the tank, then just sequence the 'white' lights (the RB's and NW's).

Hmm ... not sure if that was clear.

== John ==

[megadeth72]

the chip used to drop the voltage was posted a few pages back, it's probably not the exact chip, but similar

[Promazine]

Ok- I reworked the connections to use 2 position screw terminals that can be purchased dirt cheap on FleaBay. You'll need 10 per board but they can be had for less than 25 cents each. Just look for 2 position screw terminals w/3.5mm spacing. Here' the PCB and the files needed for production at ITead are attached.

http://i861.photobucket.com/albums/ab172/kovawa/Revised5upLDD-HDriver_zps666a881e.png

Well - ive just ordered 10 5up LDD boards and DIL sockets and 2 pole PCB screw terminals to suit! - will get pics up when they arrive and ive soldered them up :)

Thanks again! :dance:

[stzim]

I have...
LDD driver boards working. Check!
Power Supply hooked up. Check!
Reef Angle 5v PWM dimming working. Check! :beer:

and my inquisitive wife asks me... "What are you going to put that in?"

I was speechless. Any bright ideas out there on a professional looking project box with high WAF?

[Dave Thebrewguy]

My drivers are mounted above my heatsinks in a floating canopy. How are your heatsinks mounted? Can you put the drivers there? If so, all you need to do is run a data cable for PWM and a pair of conductors.from the power supply.
My power supply is behind the tank and my RA is in the stand. (Control head inside the door, the rest on the back wall.)

[one clownfish]

I have...
LDD driver boards working. Check!
Power Supply hooked up. Check!
Reef Angle 5v PWM dimming working. Check! :beer:

and my inquisitive wife asks me... "What are you going to put that in?"

I was speechless. Any bright ideas out there on a professional looking project box with high WAF?

Check out Craigslist. I found about a dozen computer towers for under $15 with the power supplies, PS wire, fans, and heat sinks still in them.

[stzim]

Dave,
I am using two MakersLED heatsinks that will be suspended http://makersled.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/12/final_fixture-150x150.jpg
over the 75g in the living room. Am hoping to keep the hardware above the tank minimal and do away with the old oak canopy. One small project box, one cat5 cable and one 48v power cable sounds good.

One clownfish,
Duhh.. I have a old SCSI external drive case at work that might work nicely for the power supply.

Thanks guys!

[Photobug]

Well - ive just ordered 10 5up LDD boards and DIL sockets and 2 pole PCB screw terminals

What are the DIL sockets about? Are these mounted into the PCB so the LDD chips can be stuck in then to the PCB to be later replaced or changed out as needed?

Can someone give me parts numbers for the DIL chips and screw terminals from digi-key?

[Promazine]

What are the DIL sockets about? Are these mounted into the PCB so the LDD chips can be stuck in then to the PCB to be later replaced or changed out as needed?

Can someone give me parts numbers for the DIL chips and screw terminals from digi-key?

Can't give you part numbers, I got mine from fleabay.

Search 24pin dil socket.

http://i.ebayimg.com/t/24-Way-DIL-Turned-pin-IC-sockets-0-6-Pack-of-4-/17/%21B%28Q%299qwBGk%7E$%28KGrHgoH-C8EjlLly%28kEBKbbN377Hg%7E%7E_12.JPG

Just make sure they are for machined/turned pins.


They do do exactly as you say though, means you can swap out the drivers as and when you like without having to bother with desoldering them from the pcb.

[007Bond]

What are the DIL sockets about? Are these mounted into the PCB so the LDD chips can be stuck in then to the PCB to be later replaced or changed out as needed?

Can someone give me parts numbers for the DIL chips and screw terminals from digi-key?

CK this post http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showpost.php?p=21014892&postcount=400

[Photobug]

+1 The LDD doesn't provide a "free lunch" electronically speaking. Forcing the LDD to drop too much voltage will cause it to get hot, as the "left over" electricity has to go some where, and that "somewhere" is heat. It's best practice to try to closely match the supply voltage to your led's strings required voltage for optimum efficiency.

Is there a way to efficiently run a varied length string lights efficiently. For example, I am trying to run two sets of LED for two tanks, with one controller and one power supply. The main tank might have 12 royal blue 6 white and 4 blue 2 moonlight and a string of four with UV red and green. I would like to be able to control each of these colors or strings separately but do not want to put a burden on the LDDs leading to potential meltdown.

Is there a way to put resistors in place to help ease the burden on the LDDs so they don't have to do all the work? Otherwise it seams to diminish the perceived advantages of this control method.

[O2Surplus]

Is there a way to efficiently run a varied length string lights efficiently. For example, I am trying to run two sets of LED for two tanks, with one controller and one power supply. The main tank might have 12 royal blue 6 white and 4 blue 2 moonlight and a string of four with UV red and green. I would like to be able to control each of these colors or strings separately but do not want to put a burden on the LDDs leading to potential meltdown.

Is there a way to put resistors in place to help ease the burden on the LDDs so they don't have to do all the work? Otherwise it seams to diminish the perceived advantages of this control method.

After another review of the MeanWell data sheets, I wouldn't be worried about lowered efficiency causing a heat or reliability issue. The worst that could happen would be thermal shutdown of the affected LDD, until more leds are added to the string LOL. Here's the part of the data sheet that covers Input Voltage/ Led load and efficiency. It looks like like even a light load of 3 leds @ 48V IN still yields 85% efficiency.


http://i861.photobucket.com/albums/ab172/kovawa/Untitled_zpsccec88d2.png

[Promazine]

After another review of the MeanWell data sheets, I wouldn't be worried about lowered efficiency causing a heat or reliability issue. The worst that could happen would be thermal shutdown of the affected LDD, until more leds are added to the string LOL. Here's the part of the data sheet that covers Input Voltage/ Led load and efficiency. It looks like like even a light load of 3 leds @ 48V IN still yields 85% efficiency.


http://i861.photobucket.com/albums/ab172/kovawa/Untitled_zpsccec88d2.png

This had been playing on my mind also - on one driver I may have to run just 4 LEDs, and was worried about the load this would put on the driver. Looks like these LDDs are getting better and better!

[ef8crxman]

Hoping there is someone that can help me figure out my problem on these ldd's.

I have 3 1000Mah ldd's running Royal blue and cool white leds.
1 600mah running all of my reds, greens and uv.

I have the apex vdm running into steve's led aquarium controller interface. The controller is suppose to convert the 0-10 volt that the vdm puts out into a pwm.

Once I plug in the power supply the leds turn on to full strength and there is no change once I try and change anything through the vdm.

Any ideas?

Thanks in advanced!

[dread240]

did you hook up a ground to the steve's controller from the Vin - of the driver?

[ef8crxman]

did you hook up a ground to the steve's controller from the Vin - of the driver?

I have a 5 volt wallwort hooked up to supply power to the aquarium controller. So should i disconnect the ground from the wallwort going to the controller and run a negative from the Vin- of the driver to the negative on the controller?

Thanks!

[zachts]

I'd bet that's it, they need to share a common ground with the drivers.

[dread240]

I'm not 100% sure on the controller, I did pull up a picture of one but the documentation I saw wasn't clear (if you want to find a better writeup for it and link it to me I can verify 100%)

What I see in the picture though is your pwm coming out of that 6 pin terminal strip. 2 right pins are 5v and ground. You will still need the ground going to the dc power supply (your wallwart) and then the other 4 pins are your seperate pwm + outputs. You will need to run a wire from the Vin- pins of the LDD and tie it to the same ground point that your wallwart is running in. I'm going to assume all of your Vin- are going to a larger power supply so all those Vin- should be common to each other, which means you'll only need to run a single wire from one of the drivers back to the control board from any of the LDD's

[zachts]

I think you just need to have the Vin of both the driver and the Steave's controller tied together. I believe this is already done for you when you use one of Steave's LED drivers to power the interface board but since your using two separate power supplies for the two diveces the current isn't flowing.

[ef8crxman]

I'm not 100% sure on the controller, I did pull up a picture of one but the documentation I saw wasn't clear (if you want to find a better writeup for it and link it to me I can verify 100%)

What I see in the picture though is your pwm coming out of that 6 pin terminal strip. 2 right pins are 5v and ground. You will still need the ground going to the dc power supply (your wallwart) and then the other 4 pins are your seperate pwm + outputs. You will need to run a wire from the Vin- pins of the LDD and tie it to the same ground point that your wallwart is running in. I'm going to assume all of your Vin- are going to a larger power supply so all those Vin- should be common to each other, which means you'll only need to run a single wire from one of the drivers back to the control board from any of the LDD's

I will give that a try!

Thanks again!

[dread240]

I will give that a try!

Thanks again!

only helping because a small part of me still misses my first gen crx :dance: :rollface:

j/k :)

[tony73]

It's very interested, Is it possible to buy these PCB?

[iced98lx]

tony73- because the creators have been so nice as to release them open source, you can order them to be made at imall or another board making shop.

which I just did, and choose UPS shipping so hopefully they'll be here quickly.

Cheers!

[O2Surplus]

tony73- because the creators have been so nice as to release them open source, you can order them to be made at imall or another board making shop.

which I just did, and choose UPS shipping so hopefully they'll be here quickly.

Cheers!

LOL- ITeadStudios works fast, coupled with UPS delivery, my last two PCB orders took less than 8 days to land in my hands. It still surprises me that something that starts out as an idea in my head, can be produced and delivered in such a short amount of time.

[rrasco]

It kind of makes you want to build even more stuff O2, doesn't it?

[tony73]

LOL- ITeadStudios works fast, coupled with UPS delivery, my last two PCB orders took less than 8 days to land in my hands. It still surprises me that something that starts out as an idea in my head, can be produced and delivered in such a short amount of time.

I will contact it

Thanks a lot
?

[tony73]

LOL- ITeadStudios works fast, coupled with UPS delivery, my last two PCB orders took less than 8 days to land in my hands. It still surprises me that something that starts out as an idea in my head, can be produced and delivered in such a short amount of time.

I will contact it

Thanks a lot
😄

[bhazard451]

It kind of makes you want to build even more stuff O2, doesn't it?

We won't mind, not one bit. You guys have already been a huge help, and we're all very thankful.

[rrasco]

There is a $20~ controller I am currently developing on the atmega328. It's not done yet, but it could be coupled with an RJ-45 jack to control these boards. I'm not ready to say anymore about it yet though. :thumbsup:

[Skinnysloth]

There is a $20~ controller I am currently developing on the atmega328. It's not done yet, but it could be coupled with an RJ-45 jack to control these boards. I'm not ready to say anymore about it yet though. :thumbsup:

You big tease! :bounce1:

[O2Surplus]

There is a $20~ controller I am currently developing on the atmega328. It's not done yet, but it could be coupled with an RJ-45 jack to control these boards. I'm not ready to say anymore about it yet though. :thumbsup:

A Ha! I took a short cut and just married an LDD-H Pcb directly to the underside of a Typhon Led Controller. Check this out-

Modified "Typhon" ( I ditched all the 10V stuff and went with mainly SMD components)
http://i861.photobucket.com/albums/ab172/kovawa/TyphonLDDcontoller_zps2635f75d.png

Meanwell LDD-H sub Pcb- (plugs in directly to the Typhon)
http://i861.photobucket.com/albums/ab172/kovawa/PluginLDD_zps517781b3.png

I've already built 5 of the controllers, but I'm stuck waiting for the LDD's to ship LOL:lolspin:

[rrasco]

LOL

I have not really looked into the typhon. I know it's popular, just never dove into the thread. What chip does it use?

How does the LDD board connect to the typhon? Headers, like a shield?

[dread240]

I haven't worked on my light stuff anymore, I still have yet to even order the boards. I did test a nice tunze control setup though that's fully programmable through the arduino, ability to switch between modes and yadda yadda

[O2Surplus]

LOL

I have not really looked into the typhon. I know it's popular, just never dove into the thread. What chip does it use?

How does the LDD board connect to the typhon? Headers, like a shield?

Yeah- the Typhon's a neat little controller. I started following the thread the minute DWZM posted it. The original Typhon was designed to be easy for anyone to build, as it was made with all through hole components. i'd already started building SMD CAT4101 based led drivers so using the Typhon to control them was the perfect solution.
Since the CAT's only need a 5V pwm signal to dim, all the 10V components on the Typhon were not needed, so I ditched them and redesigned the whole thing to be constructed from mostly SMD components.The original Typhon uses the Atmega 328-PU. I build my version using the Atmega 328-AU, as I'm now able to buy "raw" chips for cheap and "burn-in" the optiboot bootloader myself :bounce1:whooo Hooo!. Mouser and other suppliers sell the chips for around $2 each, so stocking up on them doesn't cost an "arm & leg" anymore.
I designed this version of the Typhon to plugin directly to the LDD sub Pcb. It's similar to the Arduino Shield idea, in that both boards will connect through a .1" spaced pin header. PWM signals travel through the 4 connected pins and grounds will be shared via brass stand-offs on each corner. I've got another Pcb designed and built that utilizes the LM3409 as the led driver. It also mates with this version of the Typhon. The only downside that I found with that I've got some cooling issues to sort out.:lol2:

[iced98lx]

I loved a lot of the pre-made stuff (the typhoon is good stuff to me) but I just really wanted control over all 15 channels.... :D

My Boards are in and being made and the LED chip is bought, so I'm getting ready for assembly and testing.

[iced98lx]

I loved a lot of the pre-made stuff (the typhoon is good stuff to me) but I just really wanted control over all 15 channels.... :D

My Boards are in and being made and the LED chip is bought, so I'm getting ready for assembly and testing.

[rott]

02 are those 2 boards a complete control system for lighting just the way they are?

[O2Surplus]

02 are those 2 boards a complete control system for lighting just the way they are?

Yes- pretty much. The Typhon was designed to control 4 independent channels from the very start, so I just snuggled up 4 LDD's onto a sub board to make it a complete package.
My guess is that this design approach would be great for smaller tank hoods or in other places where tight spaces require the components to be packaged close together.

[rott]

It is very cool wish I could do some thing like that would make a board with the arduino built in and have all the temp and other stuff built on to the board so only one board to use not a bunch of break outs for SD or RTC or Ph stamps everything in one abs box just have to solder up the board to external plugs so you can plug and play basically. but then you have to be able to solder on all the surface mount chips. Can't do that either.

[Skinnysloth]

Ok- I reworked the connections to use 2 position screw terminals that can be purchased dirt cheap on FleaBay. You'll need 10 per board but they can be had for less than 25 cents each. Just look for 2 position screw terminals w/3.5mm spacing. Here' the PCB and the files needed for production at ITead are attached.

http://i861.photobucket.com/albums/ab172/kovawa/Revised5upLDD-HDriver_zps666a881e.png

I got my boards today. I wanted to thank you again for making this available. There was just one small issue that doesn't affect the function of the boards. You can see the +/- along with the numbers are not aligned correctly. I'm not sure why it happened, but just letting you know that it did. Also the drivers needed to be mounted 'upside-down.' I personally am not bothered by it, but maybe some people with ocd might.

http://i47.*******.com/s5fva8.jpg
http://i50.*******.com/3521zsw.jpg

[O2Surplus]

Well at least they'll be functional. I suspect that ITead has a problem with their CAM file, with regards to the silkscreen layer. I noticed a similar defect on my last board order, but it wasn't as dramatic as this screw-up. I might just have to submit my order for the same board using Seeedstudio's CAM file and see if that makes a difference.

[chicken]

I have two extra of the 4xLDD-H boards if anyone is in the SF Bay area and wants to split them from my order. Let me know

[Spiider]

The silkscreen problem is due to using the wrong settings in Eagle.
I've had this problem in the past as well.

Read the Sparkfun tutorial on using Eagle and you will find everything you need to make successful silkscreen. Look under "Always use vector font" in this tutorial. http://www.sparkfun.com/tutorials/109

I used National Instruments Ultiboard for years before moving to Eagle this year for my hobby work and had this same issue with a $400 pcb order.

I fixed it according to the Sparkfun tutorial and reordered, perfect silk now.

"Viewplot" is also an excellent tool for reviewing your layers individually before sending the files to the pcb house.

[O2Surplus]

The silkscreen problem is due to using the wrong settings in Eagle.
I've had this problem in the past as well.

Read the Sparkfun tutorial on using Eagle and you will find everything you need to make successful silkscreen. Look under "Always use vector font" in this tutorial. http://www.sparkfun.com/tutorials/109

I used National Instruments Ultiboard for years before moving to Eagle this year for my hobby work and had this same issue with a $400 pcb order.

I fixed it according to the Sparkfun tutorial and reordered, perfect silk now.

"Viewplot" is also an excellent tool for reviewing your layers individually before sending the files to the pcb house.

Thanks for the info- I'd never seen this problem with the silkscreen layer until recently. I figured out what caused the problem. It was me! I recently upgraded from the "lite" version of EAGLE to the full blown "professional version 6.3"and forgot to adjust some of UI settings.
I'll go back in to the PCB files, make the fixes, and repost them with the corrected Gerber files ASAP.

[O2Surplus]

Ok- I can't go back and edit my original post, so here goes-

I revised the silkscreen layer and reworked a couple of connections on the PCB, but those changes won't affect the functionality of the original pcb. Here's a new image of the 5Up LDD-H and the appropriate build files are attached.

http://i861.photobucket.com/albums/ab172/kovawa/Revised5upLDD-Hpcb_zps92659374.png

[rrasco]

I always use viewplot to check my files. I'm so paranoid something will come out wrong I stare at them for hours. OCD? Not at all.

O2, I've been using the atmega328 with the bootloader for now. The only thing my board doesn't have is a programming interface, so you have to swap the chips. Not a problem for me, but others without spare controllers maybe so. I was going for cheap so I can convert all my tanks to LEDs.

[O2Surplus]

I always use viewplot to check my files. I'm so paranoid something will come out wrong I stare at them for hours. OCD? Not at all.

O2, I've been using the atmega328 with the bootloader for now. The only thing my board doesn't have is a programming interface, so you have to swap the chips. Not a problem for me, but others without spare controllers maybe so. I was going for cheap so I can convert all my tanks to LEDs.

LOL Normally I'm the one to discover my own screw ups because I don't release pcb design files until I've produced a few first. Live and learn I guess! Where is this view plot program that you mentioned ? Is it in EAGLE? or is it another stand alone GERBER file viewer? It would be nice to have in order to avoid screw ups in the future.
If you're going to be building a lot of controllers using the Atmega328, and want to save a few $$, I have something for you-
http://i861.photobucket.com/albums/ab172/kovawa/OptiLoaderPCB002.jpg
It's an Arduino shield that will enable you to burn bootloaders to "raw" chips using your arduino. The shield also allows you to upload your "sketch" using a FTDI adapter. I made the shield to be compatible with both the DIP28 and TQFP versions of the Atmega 328. If you'd like one-r-two, send me a PM with your address and I'll drop them in the mail for you.

[rrasco]

That's why I try to keep quiet about projects until I know they work. No worries though, I don't think either of us used these boards we posted in this thread.

Viewplot is a different program. It's viewer is free though.

http://www.viewplot.com/

I'll shoot you a PM about the bootloader shield.

[MagicJ]

O2Surplus - thanks for the board design, I am placing my order tonight. Do we tick the 'Open Source' box when placing the order??

For your information, the LDD drivers are not readily available in Australia but there is a couple of places that are stocking them. All of the versions are currently available although one place is charging a bit more than they should :)

[MagicJ]

tony73 - I tried to reply to your PM but couldn't

tony73 has chosen not to receive private messages or may not be allowed to receive private messages.

Can you PM your email and I will reply.

Thanks

[O2Surplus]

O2Surplus - thanks for the board design, I am placing my order tonight. Do we tick the 'Open Source' box when placing the order??

For your information, the LDD drivers are not readily available in Australia but there is a couple of places that are stocking them. All of the versions are currently available although one place is charging a bit more than they should :)

The Open source "option" is really just a gimmick IMHO. If you select the option, IteadStudios will send you some random Pcbs from other peoples orders. It sounds like fun in theory, but there's no documentation available for the boards that you receive. I received 3 small Pcb's with NO silkscreen lettering at all to indicate a part # or value, so I have no idea what the heck they're used for.LOL