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View Full Version : What driver(s) will I need?


firefightered66
10/27/2012, 06:22 PM
I am wanting to be able to adjust all my leds colors separatly. I'll have royal blue, 10k and 65k whites, green, red, and 420 actinic. Here is the specs on the leds. Should I keep these colors or trade them for something differant. By the way, they will be over a 75gal and I want to be able to keep anything and control the leds with an arduino type controller. Also what size heat sinks do you guys rec. for a 48x18 tank.
Thanks in advance!!!!! Ed

3- Red 2.5v@700ma
30- RB 3.6v@700ma
15each 10k and 65k white 3.7v@700ma
3 green 3.5v@700ma
6 420 actinic 3.8v@700ma

I'm looking for about a 14k look. These are bridgelux leds.

pwreef
10/28/2012, 07:23 AM
Don't use 10K aquastyle LEDs they make your tank look purple/sterile. If you want to go with Aquastyle use their 4500K only, but since Cree are so cheap now, I honestly don't know why go with these unknown quality chinese emitters. If you want to control with arduino your best bet is Meanwell LDD drivers. Search for my post about them. The large brick meanwell PWM dimmable will probably work too, but it will be much more expensive and physically much larger. Good luck.

firefightered66
10/28/2012, 01:08 PM
I see that you are using Aquastyle (Bridgelux) LEDs and have read hundreds of posts about them. People seem to love them. Why do you not like yours?Are the 6500K ok to use? I'm looking at getting a 72 led set for my 75 and was told this is what I'll need and not have any dark corners. I just need some good help learning this LED thing, tooo many choices out there.:headwallblue:Don't use 10K aquastyle LEDs they make your tank look purple/sterile. If you want to go with Aquastyle use their 4500K only, but since Cree are so cheap now, I honestly don't know why go with these unknown quality chinese emitters. If you want to control with arduino your best bet is Meanwell LDD drivers. Search for my post about them. The large brick meanwell PWM dimmable will probably work too, but it will be much more expensive and physically much larger. Good luck.

pwreef
10/28/2012, 09:22 PM
I did not say I did not like them. The royal blue LEDs are fine for what they cost. This is because if the seller to be believed they are Bridgelux, they are the originals. Bridgelux only makes RB emitters. I have personally verified this with their US salesman. What happens next is that companies in China use those and add phosphor to create different colors. What they call 10K is not like 10K MH or T5 that you are used to in reef lighting. Its a very white/purplish light that produces very 'sterile' look in the tank because its so monochromatic. The 6500K and the 4500K LEDs have more red/green/yellow spectrum. When mixed with royal blue they create a look that is closer to MH. When I was buying my emitters they were much cheaper. Now that you can get Cree XT-E RB for $2.50 and whites for 3.50 - 4, its hardly worth going to for no name emitters with questionable quality control. With all that said, done right two fixtures one Cree and one Bridgelux will look about the same to the naked eye. Like to many people Kia is the same as Lexus: 4 wheels, 4 doors - just a car. It's just a matter of if you want to use the latest and the greatest technology in your light. I do. :-)

firefightered66
10/29/2012, 11:16 AM
Have you had any problems with the bridgelux emitters? I have read alot of bad on thier drivers so I'll just get some meanwells and be done with it. Not sure which ones yet. I want to control blues (including the actinic) one 1, Whites on another, and the reds and greens on the 3rd (if possible). Drivers need to be able to dim via PWM. Any suggestions? I did not say I did not like them. The royal blue LEDs are fine for what they cost. This is because if the seller to be believed they are Bridgelux, they are the originals. Bridgelux only makes RB emitters. I have personally verified this with their US salesman. What happens next is that companies in China use those and add phosphor to create different colors. What they call 10K is not like 10K MH or T5 that you are used to in reef lighting. Its a very white/purplish light that produces very 'sterile' look in the tank because its so monochromatic. The 6500K and the 4500K LEDs have more red/green/yellow spectrum. When mixed with royal blue they create a look that is closer to MH. When I was buying my emitters they were much cheaper. Now that you can get Cree XT-E RB for $2.50 and whites for 3.50 - 4, its hardly worth going to for no name emitters with questionable quality control. With all that said, done right two fixtures one Cree and one Bridgelux will look about the same to the naked eye. Like to many people Kia is the same as Lexus: 4 wheels, 4 doors - just a car. It's just a matter of if you want to use the latest and the greatest technology in your light. I do. :-)