Sump plumbing

[dml931]

Ok, so I've decided to go with beans design for my drain system. My goal is to have approx 600 gph cycle through the sump, so I can get away with using 1" pipe for the drain lines. My return lines are at 1-1/2" with a line that feeds the fuge from the return side as well as a T-split to two inlets with 3/4" inside dia at the BH. I've used the head loss calculator on RC's home page and using a Mag 9.5, I have roughly 730 gph. I'm not sold on this pump, just using if for reference as it seems to be a common pump among reefers.

This is for a 75 standard using a 30L for the sump. My holes are already drilled so the inlets and outlets are now in their final location on the back of the tank. I have the overflow box designed, but I want to see the final level of the siphon and drain 90's before I submit it to be built.

I've just spent the last 3 hours drawing out my plumbing design and would like to get some feedback from those who have done similar setups. All criticism is welcomed as I'm still planning it out and only want to build it once. ;)

[tidewater]

here is mine http://i881.photobucket.com/albums/ac16/bethjoel4453/new%20tank/IMG_0956.jpg I like the drawing.

[dml931]

do you have a picture of the sump end of the plumbing? thanks for sharing.

[dml931]

and how are you planning from keeping the return line from flooding out your tank with it being so low and all, in the event of a pump failure/pwr outage? are you utilizing a one-way valve in the return line?

[hk855]

It looks like you have 4 1/2" from the top of the tank to the center of your returns. Given that, your water level will be about 5" from the top in the event of a power outage. On a 75g that's 15-20g of water that you need room for in your sump so you might want to go bigger on the sump if you can. You can also have plumbing in the tank to prevent this too but it would add clutter. You may run into an issue with the return crossing the drain but it looks like you already know that in the drawing. You don't really need to maintain 1 1/2" pipe to the returns with 300gph each, I would just do 1" after the tee. The mag pumps are pretty good pumps, I've seen a few fail but usually under hig head, like 8'+, use and only after several years. I also have seen a few hundred of them so it's a low % and plan on using a mag 5 on my new build. I wouldn't use a check valve on a fish tank return, they get bio fouled after about a month and then drip. It gives you about 30min to an hour of extra security but you end up at the same water level in the end so if your not home it doesn't do a lot of good. Other than the sump size your looking pretty good.

[coralreefdoc]

Wrong thread. I apologize ...

[tidewater]

That bottom hole is for water changes. I just have to open a valve under the tank and drain out as much water as I feel. All my returns are up and over the tank with a hole drilled in them for siphon break. I changed my sump after the tank was set up so I had to move my piping but here's the end http://i881.photobucket.com/albums/ac16/bethjoel4453/new%20tank/IMG_2293.jpg

[no694terry]

Make sure you have a strainer in that water change drain. An big empty hole is awefully attrative to inhabitants

[dml931]

That's a pretty good idea for water changes, might do the same now that I'm in planning mode still. Thanks for sharing.

As far as my sump goes, I'm gonna use a 30L tank and if my calculation are correct, everything should be ok. The center of the holes are at 2-1/4 and the inlet holes are only 1-1/4" dia. My overflow box will regulate the 3 drain holes and will be 1" below top of water level. I should only get about 5-8 gallons of runoff in the event of pump failure and the sump should handle that. I will test levels once built to determine min and max levels in the sump.

My drawinging isn't quite to scale but I see what you're saying about the one return line on the right. I'll modify the drain lines to accommodate the routing.

Thanks for your input guys!