Vortech MP 10 Dry side rebuild

[techdiver]

I have been using an MP 10 that was given to me over a year ago. It was given to me not working, so I wasn't sure about spending money on a power supply for it. I looked through the parts in my shop and altered an Apple Clamshell yoyo power supply to work with it. It ended up working and has been running with that Apple yo yo ever since. I haven't been using it on anything except lagoon mode due to it having a noise. It has gotten a bit louder, so I put my old Koralia in the tank to take over the circulation task while I try to fix the MP 10. After doing a bit of research, I have found the information needed to fix the dry side of the MP 10. It uses 2 bearings which are one of the main culprits of the noise issues after the Vortechs get some age on them. Some say that a Vortech can't be quiet, but I am sure that opinion is relative. I know mine is much louder than it is supposed to be since I can hear it in the two rooms away.

Bearing Information

Size: 7 x 14 x 5 Millimeters
Suggested bearing: 687zz
ABEC/ISO Rating: ABEC#5/ISOP5
Bearing Material: Stainless
Ball Material: Stainless

It looks like the Boca Bearings have a very good track record, so I choose the SMR147-ZZ #5 Radial Bearings (http://www.bocabearings.com/bearing-inventory/Radial-Bearings/2620/7x14x5-SMR147ZZ5)

I used a pair of calipers and this thread to start this project. (http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1901337)
I'll post an update later on the progress.

[Breadman03]

I bookmarked that thread just the other day. Good luck!

[techdiver]

The bearings came in today. After installing them, the MP10 can now be used in different modes without hearing it in other rooms of the house. It isn't dead silent, but it isn't loud either. I have tried the pulsing modes which are now usable with the silencing of the new bearings.

[techdiver]

Here is the information I used:

here it is guys the write up it fairly simple close to what the mp40 is but the only difference is that the base plate will need to be cut off and when you done reglued.

If your worried about cosmetics need not do the repair yourself as your going to do some damage to the casing

Fist you need to peel the sticker off ( once you do this it will void your warranty )



then you will see the four screws that hold the motor to the shell i removed these first when i was taking it apart but found out that the plastic on the other side just doesnt come off so easily

http://images116.fotki.com/v693/photos/6/210466/9213694/IMG_0354-vi.jpg


I would recommend leaving those on. First your going to need to cut off the plastic cover on the side that touches the glass. I used a kitchen knife for this because i can flex it a bend it without worrying about it shattering like an x-acto or box cutter might.

http://images9.fotki.com/v1618/photos/6/210466/9213694/IMG_0355-vi.jpg

http://public.fotki.com/damwatsyoname/marine-life/mp10-fixed/img-0357.html#media


now you remove the 3 motor screws. I used a torks t15 but i believe its a 2.5 or 2 allen key

http://public.fotki.com/damwatsyoname/marine-life/mp10-fixed/img-0355.html#media

be careful with the power cable as it is flimsy and the wires are thin. Just shimmy the motor out being careful not to pull on the cable.

http://images107.fotki.com/v71/photos/6/210466/9213694/IMG_0357-vi.jpg

First remove the magnet from the motor this is the hard part, you might need a second person for this part, what your going to need is the allen key on one side and have someone hold the motor and useing a flat head screw driver hold the shaft on the oppisite side of the magnet as you unscrew the magnet off. There might be what you think is debris on the magnet whatever you do don't clean it off it will help center the magnet upon reassembly

then your going to remove the 3 screws that hold the 2 motor end caps together

http://images12.fotki.com/v68/photos/6/210466/9213694/IMG_0359-vi.jpg


then you pry the cap off ( the side with out the power cable) which shouldnt be to hard to reveil the internals and the first of two bearings. you will cafefully pull the center section which is the magnet and the bearings. (careful with the magnet that part is proprietary and will not have a replacement)

http://images31.fotki.com/v1043/photos/6/210466/9213694/IMG_0372-vi.jpg

carefully remove the two bearings (sorry i dont have a picture of this procedure as i got kind of angry that i couldnt remove it easily)

this is what i did i had a cheap fork laying around i bent one of the prongs out of the way and put the fork between the bearing and the magnet, being careful not to hit the magnet i slowly rocked the bearing back and forth and it slowly came off. The bearings aren't pressed on or anything its just and exact fit. You can also try the rocking motion with just using yout fingers. I could after i took it off the first time.

http://images58.fotki.com/v696/photos/6/210466/9213694/IMG_0360-vi.jpg

http://images19.fotki.com/v285/photos/6/210466/9213694/IMG_0361-vi.jpg


Once your done just replace the bearings and start the reassembly process. When i took mine apart i noticed there are 2 washers and a spring washer at the bottom for anyone that drops it or it sticks the the magnet. the order is washer, washer , spring.


http://images58.fotki.com/v85/photos/6/210466/9213694/IMG_0371-vi.jpg

http://images57.fotki.com/v80/photos/6/210466/9213694/IMG_0370-vi.jpg



when its time to put it back together find where the plastic fits together best and using a little bit of epoxy( i used a two part) and a toothpick dab and cap it and your done

Link to the above source (http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1901337&highlight=mp40+bearing+replacement&page=4)

I did not have to epoxy anything on mine, but I did have to use a Dremel to cut a slot into the screws to extract them. Another difference was mine only had one washer instead of two.

I extracted this as the information goes back and forth from MP 40/20 parts and MP10 parts.

[05grandprix]

Awesome post now we know who to take these to to get it repaired