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zakstrong
11/26/2012, 03:27 AM
i will be filling my tank for the first time in a short while. the system will be about 300 gallons. my ro unit will probably take 5 days to fill it. I was wondering if it would be "acceptable" to use tap water to fill it at first. I would add de-chlorinator of course then salt. the tank will need to cycle for quite a while so i wouldnt see a problem with all the water changes i will be doing in the future until i add any touchy live stock. thoughts?

EllieSuz
11/26/2012, 04:34 AM
I'm pretty sure you would defeat the purpose of having a RO/DI unit by using tap water at this stage. It's easy to see why you prefer not to wait until your RO/DI unit catches up, but this is as good a time as any to practice some patience. It's an essential personality trait to have for any success at all in this hobby.

rezaktp
11/26/2012, 05:16 AM
+1 don't hurry take the extra time and do it right!

Hamsternuts
11/26/2012, 05:33 AM
Aside from suggesting more patience, using tap water which may have silicates in it, will make your initial algea bloom that much worse. Use DI water and save yourself the headache and frustration down the line.

Congrats on the new setup!

AZ_reefer
11/26/2012, 05:47 AM
Don't do it. You will regret it later. 300 gallons is a lot of tap water. Wrong way to start your tank.

AirportFF
11/26/2012, 07:00 AM
What about trying your local bottled water supplier and see if they have bulk distilled water for your initial fillup. I would mix it in a separate container as opposed to mixing in the tank.

fishysteve
11/26/2012, 07:17 AM
Just get a new flow restictor and membrane for you RO/DI unit that has more output.

wyattroa
11/26/2012, 11:21 AM
You have taken the time to get everything set up properly and you want to cut the corner on the one major corner now? You know its a bad move so why do it? So it takes you a couple extra days...Just think of the headache you will be saved.
Robert

Painted skin
11/26/2012, 12:13 PM
Tap water depending on where you are contains high phosphate level vary depending on location. I've been using tap water for years now and still am, however I treat my water with GFO, Carbon and sodium thiosulfate prior to going to the DT. I have 77gal glass tank as a mixing tank I fill it within 1-2 days I have ready to go water. I have SPS dominant, LPS, and shrooms with no major issue no more than anyone using RO/DI. I chose this path not because I am not against RO/DI it was a matter of convenience no waiting for water and wasting water. People using RO/DI can also have just as much headache such as hair algae and cyano, it all depends on how you filter your water and take of your tank. On my 150 gal DT I do have it running through carbon, GFO and UV and a really good skimmer and so my fish looks like it's floating on air. When it comes down to it ro or ro/di is basically special filtered tap water.

The main problem with people using tap is they think they can just throw in stuff like prime and it ready to use, but to do it right you have treat with more than prime. So yes it is preferable to use ro/di, but I don't believe it should be a religion or set in stone.

a.browning
11/26/2012, 12:33 PM
Water is pretty much the most important thing in the tank. Don't cut corners, it will lead to many issues down the road. If you did tap, you would be introducing all sorts of undesired chemicals to the tank. At least around here, nitrate is >10ppm and phosphate is >.15ppm straight out of the tap, not to mention all the heavy metals. You have the RODI system, may as well put it to work!

NvyroMental
11/26/2012, 12:33 PM
I cant agree more with all suggestions/opinions. The water provided by the tap has higher concentrations of dissolved organics and minerals not suitable for saltwater fauna. The purpose of cycling a new tank is to equilibrate water parameters, and adding tap will only cause more problems and likely lengthen the cycling time. Spend the 5 days to do it right and you'll be much happier with the results. The fish will thank you too

Painted skin
11/26/2012, 01:11 PM
If you did tap, you would be introducing all sorts of undesired chemicals to the tank. At least around here, nitrate is >10ppm and phosphate is >.15ppm straight out of the tap, not to mention all the heavy metals. You have the RODI system, may as well put it to work!

Well up here in Canada where I'm at the tap is very good.
When I finish treating my water it PO4=0 same goes for ammonia, nitrite and nitrate. As for heavy metal and chemical what do you think active carbon is made for..

Like I said earlier I'm not against using ro/di. In the beginning of my hobby I said to myself I'm going to use tap and if I start seeing issue then I will have no choice but to go with ro/di and from that point never had too.

How many people do you see on here in this forum using ro/di and still have issues such as algae, cyno, or milky cloudy water. I can tell you that I can take my tank and compare it to someone locally here that is using ro/di and my tank would just as healthy if not more.

Let me make one thing clear I am not saying tap water is better than RO/DI I would be crazy to say that, but tap is not the evil cousin people make it out to be if you do right.

Palting
11/26/2012, 01:15 PM
I think you been hammered enough, and I don't want to take another swing at you :). Just set your RODI unit atop the tank, connect garden hoses to the input and waste lines if you need to, and let it run for several days. That's what I did for my 200 gallon reef system, and the 150 gallon predator system.

Painted skin
11/26/2012, 01:22 PM
I think you been hammered enough, and I don't want to take another swing at you :).
.

LOL not even. :rollface: All I'm going to say is seeing is believing and I'm sitting here looking it now and have been for these years and I still have my hair on top of my head.

cloak
11/26/2012, 01:37 PM
Well up here in Canada where I'm at the tap is very good.
When I finish treating my water it PO4=0 same goes for ammonia, nitrite and nitrate. As for heavy metal and chemical what do you think active carbon is made for..

Like I said earlier I'm not against using ro/di. In the beginning of my hobby I said to myself I'm going to use tap and if I start seeing issue then I will have no choice but to go with ro/di and from that point never had too.

How many people do you see on here in this forum using ro/di and still have issues such as algae, cyno, or milky cloudy water. I can tell you that I can take my tank and compare it to someone locally here that is using ro/di and my tank would just as healthy if not more.

Let me make one thing clear I am not saying tap water is better than RO/DI I would be crazy to say that, but tap is not the evil cousin people make it out to be if you do right.

+1.

I've been using tap water for almost 14 years now without any problems. At least give it a chance.

On a side note; Maybe the water's not the problem, it's the individual who's stirring the pot that's mucking it up. Something to think about. GL.

Metal Man 1221
11/26/2012, 01:54 PM
Gotta jump on the bandwagon here.

Thats how I did it, and now my rocks are full of phosphate. I struggle to keep both GHA and bryopsis at bay. Almost 3.5 years later, and I'm still kicking my self in the @$$. Please don't do this to yourself.

In order to have complete control over your tank's parameters you need to start with a good clean base. In the long run, using tap water WILL cause you headaches and hours of frustration.

cloak
11/26/2012, 02:06 PM
In the long run, using tap water WILL cause you headaches and hours of frustration.

"WILL" is a strong word. It wasn't like that in my case...

Painted skin
11/26/2012, 03:19 PM
Gotta jump on the bandwagon here.

Thats how I did it, and now my rocks are full of phosphate.

It's obviously you either miss something out of the equation or over feeding or something just like anyone else that uses RO/DI can still have high phosphate readings over a period of time. Sound like you were one of those people who used tap and put in prime or conditioner and off you go. It's all about keeping up with schedule maintenance and filtration. When I treat my tap and before into put into the DT I have zero phosphate and I keep it that way.

lmsmith
11/26/2012, 03:40 PM
I use tapwater in a pinch. But the TDS of my tapwater is between 7 and 10, phosphates 0. In saying that, I also use NSW so the amount of tapwater I'd be using is very minimal. I think it's a risk you have to decide if you're willing to take.

Painted skin
11/26/2012, 04:03 PM
Yup, you will get reading on the TDS. RO/DI process by buffing and strip stripping the water of all it's elements to get a reading of zero. It strips it of calcium, magnesium which you will back anyways. Also you ever see the test they do for the salt mix and and the unwanted elements that comes with it?

Anyways not sure where you are from, but where I'm at the tap water is pretty good.

http://winnipeg.ca/waterandwaste/water/treatment/plant.stm

lmsmith
11/26/2012, 04:09 PM
Yup, you will get reading on the TDS. RO/DI process by buffing and strip stripping the water of all it's elements to get a reading of zero. It strips it of calcium, magnesium which you will back anyways. Also you ever see the test they do for the salt mix and and the unwanted elements that comes with it?

Anyways not you are from, but where I'm at the tap water is pretty good.

http://winnipeg.ca/waterandwaste/water/treatment/plant.stm

Not sure what you're replying to, so I'm a bit confused by your comment here.

bmwsedan32
11/26/2012, 04:16 PM
I tried using tap water for my first tank build and had my phosphate levels through the roof when I tested my water. Not a fun experience with all the algae that popped up and trying to fix the problem.

Painted skin
11/26/2012, 04:33 PM
Not sure what you're replying to, so I'm a bit confused by your comment here.

Not replying to anyone in particular rather just a general statement that with tap you will see a reading on the TDS, with RO/DI you will get a reading of zero or close to it, but when you add calcium and mag for example you get a higher reading.

As for the salt comment everyone here is worried about impurities, but do we ever look at the impurity that comes with salt mix.?

Painted skin
11/26/2012, 04:38 PM
I tried using tap water for my first tank build and had my phosphate levels through the roof when I tested my water. Not a fun experience with all the algae that popped up and trying to fix the problem.

Your mistake is like everyone else that had tried tap. They poor it into a bucket add conditioner and throw it into the display tank. If you are going to use tap water you have to remove the phosphate via GFO reactor or something.

By just adding conditioner and putting directly into display tank without any further treatment you're just asking for trouble.

Painted skin
11/26/2012, 04:39 PM
Got to get back to work now, so I wanted thank you for an entertaining day. I was bored and I knew you little ro/di soldier would jump on the band wagon. lol

lmsmith
11/26/2012, 04:44 PM
Not replying to anyone in particular rather just a general statement that with tap you will see a reading on the TDS, with RO/DI you will get a reading of zero or close to it, but when you add calcium and mag for example you get a higher reading.

As for the salt comment everyone here is worried about impurities, but do we ever look at the impurity that comes with salt mix.?

Ah, that's where my confusion came from. The way the comment was worded was like it was a reply to something, but you were making a point that hadn't been brought up before. Makes sense now.

And salt - yes, I think we do consider the impurities that come in salt mixes. That's why some people prefer some salt mixes to others, and others again prefer NSW.
Your mistake is like everyone else that had tried tap. They poor it into a bucket add conditioner and throw it into the display tank. If you are going to use tap water you have to remove the phosphate via GFO reactor or something.

By just adding conditioner and putting directly into display tank without any further treatment you're just asking for trouble.

No, you don't need to run a GFO on tapwater if there's no phosphate in it in the first place. For example, here, our tap water is very clean and phosphate readings even in lab conditions are non-existent.

What's more important than anything is knowing that's in the water you're putting into your tank. If you use tap water, know what's in it.

coralsnaked
11/26/2012, 04:55 PM
Shame we all can't live in Canada where the water is better and the economy is equally better, But your healthcare stinks...oh yea but so will ours in a couple of more years... Guess Canada ain't sounding so bad anymore. LOL

lmsmith
11/26/2012, 05:01 PM
Shame we all can't live in Canada where the water is better and the economy is equally better, But your healthcare stinks...oh yea but so will ours in a couple of more years... Guess Canada ain't sounding so bad anymore. LOL

Wow. I don't think I've ever actually spoken to someone who a) opposes state subsidised healthcare and b) thinks that overpriced user pays systems that mean people die for fear of going to emergency rooms is a good idea. Here probably isn't the right place for this conversation, but I kind of hoped people who had these views were a myth. My state heathcare in New Zealand is fab.

Painted skin
11/26/2012, 05:28 PM
Ah, that's where my confusion came from. The way the comment was worded was like it was a reply to something, but you were making a point that hadn't been brought up before. Makes sense now.

And salt - yes, I think we do consider the impurities that come in salt mixes. That's why some people prefer some salt mixes to others, and others again prefer NSW.


No, you don't need to run a GFO on tapwater if there's no phosphate in it in the first place. For example, here, our tap water is very clean and phosphate readings even in lab conditions are non-existent.

What's more important than anything is knowing that's in the water you're putting into your tank. If you use tap water, know what's in it.

I have too run GFO, I know I have phosphate coming out of the tap they deliberately place that in to prevent or should I say minimize corrosion from pipe that will get into the water like lead. You're luck you don't have phosphate out of your tap.

Shame we all can't live in Canada where the water is better and the economy is equally better, But your healthcare stinks...oh yea but so will ours in a couple of more years... Guess Canada ain't sounding so bad anymore. LOL

LOL, no complaint on the healthcare here it very cheap or nothing; subsidize by the government. Ya we don't have to pay $30 for aspirin pill when you go to the hospital here or you don't have to re-mortgage your house or get a second job to pay for surgery here. That's why we were loosing all of our good doctors and nurses to the states because they were getting paid more.

lmsmith
11/26/2012, 05:33 PM
I have too run GFO, I know I have phosphate coming out of the tap they deliberately place that in to prevent or should I say minimize corrosion from pipe that will get into the water like lead. You're luck you don't have phosphate out of your tap.



LOL, no complaint on the healthcare here it very cheap or nothing; subsidize by the government. Ya you don't have to pay $30 for aspirin pill when you go to the hospital here or you don't have to re-mortgage your house or get a second job to pay for surgery here.

That would suck having to run GFO on tapwater. I guess that's what an RODI is for, but still. Also, $30 for an asprin? Ouch. Here I was thinking the presciptions here going up to $5 is a bit steep!

Painted skin
11/26/2012, 05:53 PM
That would suck having to run GFO on tapwater. I guess that's what an RODI is for, but still. Also, $30 for an asprin? Ouch. Here I was thinking the presciptions here going up to $5 is a bit steep!

Not too sure why it would suck, IMO it's still more cost and time efficient as to running RO/DI for me, not saying that's is for everyone.

As for $30 a pill we don't pay that here. I was just making a remark about visiting states hospital it can cost you an arm and a leg literally from what I hear if you don't have insurance. I never had to use their service so I wouldn't know for sure.

markaren
11/26/2012, 05:57 PM
I filled mine with hose water first to see if the tank leaked.

It Did.

I restored the tank and then used RODI.

zakstrong
11/26/2012, 06:20 PM
so looks like im going with ro water. And on the topic of subsidized healthcare.. not a fan. thanks obama. Soon we will have doctors with university of phoenix degrees cutting us open. yay

Painted skin
11/26/2012, 06:25 PM
so looks like im going with ro water. And on the topic of subsidized healthcare.. not a fan. thanks obama. Soon we will have doctors with university of phoenix degrees cutting us open. yay

LMAO


RO water good choice! You sure you don't want to come over to the dark side..:lol2:

Breadman03
11/26/2012, 06:25 PM
I filled my 75 DT and 20 sump with RODI, then sat in my chair next to the tank, periodically sprinkling a half cup of salt at a time into the sump while watching TV. Two days later, I made sure that my ammonia, etc were zero, and began transferring everything from my 55 to the 75.

My tap water is around 370 ppm of TDS.

mtaquarist
11/26/2012, 06:29 PM
I filled mine the first time with tap and use rodi for top off and water changes. You're gonna have to do so many water changes when starting up you will work everything out quickly imo. I had no problems what so ever and my coraline actually got a lot brighter in color then of was when I forts got the rock. This is just my experience and it would depend on your water quality. I do have city water so it can't be that great:p

Metal Man 1221
11/26/2012, 06:52 PM
It's obviously you either miss something out of the equation or over feeding or something just like anyone else that uses RO/DI can still have high phosphate readings over a period of time. Sound like you were one of those people who used tap and put in prime or conditioner and off you go. It's all about keeping up with schedule maintenance and filtration. When I treat my tap and before into put into the DT I have zero phosphate and I keep it that way.

I understand that, and there are more factors involved, but to just denounce using tap water as a possibility is just ignorant. And I have to ask, did you read my post? of course thats what I did, I even said so. My point is that when you have RODI available why would you want to start with tap water?

Painted skin
11/26/2012, 08:00 PM
I understand that, and there are more factors involved, but to just denounce using tap water as a possibility is just ignorant. And I have to ask, did you read my post? of course thats what I did, I even said so. My point is that when you have RODI available why would you want to start with tap water?


Of course I read your post I guess I must of missed it because there was no "GFO" mention in your post. If you did use that GFO and tested the water before going into your display tank without any phosphate. Then your issue is within the tank or habit like over feeding or lack of maintenance. If you put water in with zero phosphate then you're not getting phosphate from that water, you're getting phosphate after the fact under other condition . And did you read my post? I guess you missed that part where I said the following;
-it's preferably to use RO/DI
-I am not claiming tap water is better than ro/di I would be crazy if I did

And my main point was there is alternative if need be, RO/DI is not the magic "Excalibur" sword that's going save you from headache from water condition. Just look through this forum and you'll see countless people having algae, bacteria problem even with using ro/di.

Like someone said earlier, "it depends on who's stirring the pot"..

Metal Man 1221
11/27/2012, 01:30 AM
What ever dude, your making this a bigger deal than it needs to be. At this point I think you have completely misunderstood my intentions, and I have nothing more to say to you.

Peace,

guy9smiley2
11/27/2012, 02:41 AM
Of course I read your post I guess I must of missed it because there was no "GFO" mention in your post. If you did use that GFO and tested the water before going into your display tank without any phosphate. Then your issue is within the tank or habit like over feeding or lack of maintenance. If you put water in with zero phosphate then you're not getting phosphate from that water, you're getting phosphate after the fact under other condition . And did you read my post? I guess you missed that part where I said the following;
-it's preferably to use RO/DI
-I am not claiming tap water is better than ro/di I would be crazy if I did

And my main point was there is alternative if need be, RO/DI is not the magic "Excalibur" sword that's going save you from headache from water condition. Just look through this forum and you'll see countless people having algae, bacteria problem even with using ro/di.

Like someone said earlier, "it depends on who's stirring the pot"..

joeogio
11/27/2012, 11:29 AM
I would use the ro unit and keep tap water out of your tank, it can has and will work for some people but considering the overall cost of using ro water is very minimal vs. just using tap its not worth the risk. that's just my .02 you can use the time that it takes to fill the tank to work on other aspects of the tank


Posted from ReefCentral.com App for Android

zakstrong
11/27/2012, 12:55 PM
I would use the ro unit and keep tap water out of your tank, it can has and will work for some people but considering the overall cost of using ro water is very minimal vs. just using tap its not worth the risk. that's just my .02 you can use the time that it takes to fill the tank to work on other aspects of the tank


Posted from ReefCentral.com App for Android

i hate what you are saying but it makes so much sense... its my fish tank and i want it now.. hahah looks like i will have to plan some activities for the five days

jasonrstewart79
11/27/2012, 04:22 PM
Wow. I don't think I've ever actually spoken to someone who a) opposes state subsidised healthcare and b) thinks that overpriced user pays systems that mean people die for fear of going to emergency rooms is a good idea. Here probably isn't the right place for this conversation, but I kind of hoped people who had these views were a myth. My state heathcare in New Zealand is fab.

If you need emergency treatment here in the States, regardless of income or ability to pay, an ER doctor is required to treat you.

On the thread topic, RO/DI is the best starter.. I too use tap in a pinch but we have excellent tap source in this area, little to no phosphate issues.

bmwsedan32
11/30/2012, 03:28 PM
Your mistake is like everyone else that had tried tap. They poor it into a bucket add conditioner and throw it into the display tank. If you are going to use tap water you have to remove the phosphate via GFO reactor or something.

By just adding conditioner and putting directly into display tank without any further treatment you're just asking for trouble.

It was a learning experience that caused me a huge head ache with my first tank, but I've so much these past couple of years, thanks to all the knowledgeable people. Ahum, the conditioner that the person at the fish store sold me said is was like a miracle drug.

Painted skin
11/30/2012, 03:59 PM
It was a learning experience that caused me a huge head ache with my first tank, but I've so much these past couple of years, thanks to all the knowledgeable people. Ahum, the conditioner that the person at the fish store sold me said is was like a miracle drug.

At least now you know not to take that person advice. Personally I always do my own research before listening to any sales person. Any sales person using the word " miracle" in any product I would second guess them.