LED build, please check my math

[sfsuphysics]

Before I go ordering parts (some of which are practically impossible to get now) I'd like to get some input (a second set of eyes) to double check to make sure everything I get will work as I expect.

The idea is to build an LED array on a heatsink, a cluster of 6 LEDs in a hexagon shape then, a 4 "backup" colors in a "square" (see attached picture)... the over all shape/separation isn't my big worry now (I just drew that in MS paint for kicks and giggles), it's the total power usage. 4 of these clusters per heatsink (20" long)

4 separate channels
Ch1 - Cool White, Warm White, Royal Blue (Cree XTE) x 4
CH2 - Royal Blue (Cree XTE) x 12
Ch3 - Blue (Cree XRE?) x 8 (not sure if this is overkill.. or even useful, opinions wanted)
Ch4 - "UV" (Either 405nm, 420nm, or 430nm I have choices) x 8

Drivers
2 x Meanwell LDD-1000H (for whites and rb)
2 x Meanwell LDD- 600H (for blues and UVs due to 700mA max rating)

Power Supply
Option 1:
Meanwell SP-200-48 (4.2 Amps max)

Option 2:
2 x Meanwell SP-100-48 (2.1 Amps max) one for LDD1000 channels, one for LDD600 channels

Option 3:
Meanwell SP-320-48 (6.7 Amps max) 2 of these setups and just chain the them together. (basically save ~$40 from buying 2 SP-200s)

My biggest worry/question is not knowing enough about electronics to wonder if there's going to be an issue considering 2 strings run 12 LEDs (~40 volts) and 2 strings run 8 LEDs (~26 volts). Would this be an issue coming from the same power supply?

The power supply itself is fine, with 1000mA x 2 + 600mA x 2 = 3.2A max draw. I thought about going with an SP-150-48 the wattage is there, however this one maxes at 3.2A so I don't want chance the extra strain.

[Eud]

It's fine if the separate LDD's are running different numbers of LED's. They don't have to be the same voltage. I'd say option 1 looks like the winner. It's gotta be cheaper than option 2 and option 3 is way more power than you seem to need. Then go with one of the 4-up boards posted to this thread.

But since you've got the voltage to spare on your UV string why not spend 20 more dollars to buy 4 more UV's and fill that one out. You could always run them dimmer if you end up with too much.

Also, instead of a string of 8 blues you could do a string of "Ocean Coral White" which would be 4 Red/Cyan/Blue clusters (so 4 blue, 4 cyan, 4 deep red) which add together to look like white if they're close enough together on the heatsink. You'd still be well under 48V, especially because the reds are 2V each.

Lastly the "full spectrum" lighting nerds over at nano-reef like to use neutral whites instead of cool or warm. They say it renders color better, so if any of them post here they'll suggest 2 neutrals and a RB instead of 1 cool and 1 warm on channel 1.

[E Rosewater]

I comment about the Blue. I did a DIY build, posted about here, and I am so happy I added the Blues. That being said, mine was Luxeon not Cree, and Luxeon RBs are a little more on the purple side from what I understand and the Blue (470nm) helped to balance that out. Also there is some photosynthesis that occurs that spectrum.

[zachts]

well, I'm definately a "full spectrum" lighting nerd, and if you only have one white to use then yup go with NW but the 50/50 approach here will cover more spectral ground and still give that NW look so it's a win win. though I'd strongly consider 3 up chips for the multi color white strings other wise you may see the diferent whites in the shadows a little bit. just my humble opinons.

[sfsuphysics]

Ok thanks, good to know the power supply would work. Didn't know if the LDD driver needed to pull the exact voltage or not. Although I might fill up some strings as suggested, perhaps even the blue string with some more royal blues, then remove that one royal blue on the white channel and replace it with another white. Perhaps swapping out to neutral whites will be good too, I noticed the spectra are quite different on the XTE chips compared to the XPG chips (less blue mostly) not sure if that's because they test them at 85°C instead though.

So looks like I might do
Ch1: NW x 12
CH2: RB X 12
CH3: B x 8, RB x 4 (these will be underpowered)
CH4: UV x 12 (actinics)

I'm leaning away from the 3up chips for the simple fact that this is going to be built using solderless chips, I've soldered quite a few dozen of these over the past couple years and I can tell you it'll get old real quick.

Also the reason why I was leaning towards option 3 is because I am going to do 2 of these builds, so it's either 2 SP-200 power supplies, or 1 SP-320

[AMDphenomx4]

Ok thanks, good to know the power supply would work. Didn't know if the LDD driver needed to pull the exact voltage or not. Although I might fill up some strings as suggested, perhaps even the blue string with some more royal blues, then remove that one royal blue on the white channel and replace it with another white. Perhaps swapping out to neutral whites will be good too, I noticed the spectra are quite different on the XTE chips compared to the XPG chips (less blue mostly) not sure if that's because they test them at 85°C instead though.

So looks like I might do
Ch1: NW x 12
CH2: RB X 12
CH3: B x 8, RB x 4 (these will be underpowered)
CH4: UV x 12 (actinics)

I'm leaning away from the 3up chips for the simple fact that this is going to be built using solderless chips, I've soldered quite a few dozen of these over the past couple years and I can tell you it'll get old real quick.

Also the reason why I was leaning towards option 3 is because I am going to do 2 of these builds, so it's either 2 SP-200 power supplies, or 1 SP-320

Use XP-E blues unless you already were going to use them in which good job.

[sfsuphysics]

Yup, they're XPEs sorry I said XRE, I forgot the lettering scheme between the two.