Tank Setup Questions

[greene.phillip]

1) I got my sump together the way I want ( I think.) and based on suggestions from uncleof6 i have two drains planned for my overflow box. I am having trouble figuring out the height at which to set my drains. One upturned elbow elbow emergency dry drain and one downturned elbow siphon. I was told they both need to be within 1" of the water surface but I don't know how to determine where that will be in the overflow box.

2) Also, are stainless steel clamps safe to use? I have a piece of vinyl tubing to prevent vibration from the return pump trasnferring. I have PVC hose barbs but thought they would need to be clamped as well.

3) Would you recommend using eggcrate under the sand for the rocks to sit on?

4) Should the drain line enter the sump below the water line (Would think that's quieter) or just above the surface in order to create surface turbulence for gas exchange?

5) Same question as #4 for the return line to the DT.

6) Only ball valves I've been able to find locally are brass. Is it same to use brass gate valves (female threaded) and male threaded to slip PVC?


Think that's all for now. Thanks in advance.

[thegrun]

1. The upturned elbow would be set at slightly higher than your desired water level in the tank (usually 1" to 1.5" below the top of tank). I can't speak to the downturned elbow.
2. No, do not use Stainless Steel it will rust. Use vinyl draw bands.
3. Yes, egg crate helps prevent the rocks from shifting over time.
4. Below.
5. Below (usually one inch below the desired water level).
6. DO NOT USE BRASS!!! Order PVC valves online if you can't find them locally (try Bulk Reef Supply or Marine Depot). I would strongly recommend gate valves for most situations over ball valves. Gate valves are much easier to fine tune your flow with. If you are simply using the valve for on-off then a ball valve is best.

[Palting]

1) I got my sump together the way I want ( I think.) and based on suggestions from uncleof6 i have two drains planned for my overflow box. I am having trouble figuring out the height at which to set my drains. One upturned elbow elbow emergency dry drain and one downturned elbow siphon. I was told they both need to be within 1" of the water surface but I don't know how to determine where that will be in the overflow box.

2) Also, are stainless steel clamps safe to use? I have a piece of vinyl tubing to prevent vibration from the return pump trasnferring. I have PVC hose barbs but thought they would need to be clamped as well.

3) Would you recommend using eggcrate under the sand for the rocks to sit on?

4) Should the drain line enter the sump below the water line (Would think that's quieter) or just above the surface in order to create surface turbulence for gas exchange?

5) Same question as #4 for the return line to the DT.

6) Only ball valves I've been able to find locally are brass. Is it same to use brass gate valves (female threaded) and male threaded to slip PVC?


Think that's all for now. Thanks in advance.

1. The level of the lower edge of the teeth of the overflow box determine the water level for your tank. Depending on the flow, the true level may be a few mm above that if you want to be AC about it. The center of the drilled holes, or simillarly the center of the horizontal portion of the downturned elbow determines the running water level within the overflow box. If the downturned elbow clogs, you will then drain from the upturned elbow, and the water level in the box and pssible the tank will then be equivalent to the height of the upturned elbow. Most people drill the bulkhead holes with the upper edge of the hole about an inch from the top of the tank or bottom of the trim.

2. Stainless steel is not corrosion-proof, it is corrosion resistant. They can and do corrode in saltwater, especially the screws or bolts. Don't ask how I know. Use plastic clamps or zip ties to secure hoses.

3. Not a bad idea, recommended by most. I don't, because I don't like having dead spaces within those squares. I just set the rocks directly on the glass.

4. Under the water line. You get your aeration from surface agitation in the DT, some from the skimmer. I use Durso drains, not as quiet as your plan, but I also get a ton of aeration from the drain itself.

5. No brass or copper or any metals for any of your tank plumbing. EVER! :)

[greene.phillip]

Good info from both of you, thanks very much. I actually meant gate valves in #6 and have just ordered some online.

[greene.phillip]

One more question (for now :))... Should I cement the drain pipes (in the over flow box) into the bulkheads? I read that if you don't you can pull them out occasionally to stir up the overflow box and allow any sediment to be sucked out. Or could this lead to trouble?

Thanks again.

[Theomi]

One more question (for now :))... Should I cement the drain pipes (in the over flow box) into the bulkheads? I read that if you don't you can pull them out occasionally to stir up the overflow box and allow any sediment to be sucked out. Or could this lead to trouble?

Thanks again.

Mine is not glued to the bulkheads, it makes maintenance easier

[Palting]

Mine is not glued to the bulkheads, it makes maintenance easier

Plus 1. I glue all PVC to PVC connections, EXCEPT the bulkhead.

[greene.phillip]

Mine is not glued to the bulkheads, it makes maintenance easier

Plus 1. I glue all PVC to PVC connections, EXCEPT the bulkhead.

Thanks! Just to be sure you do both glue the side outside the tank though surely?

[Palting]

Thanks! Just to be sure you do both glue the side outside the tank though surely?

LOL!!! You should. I don't, you caught me :). I siliconed it, then shoved it in as tight as I could. Just in case I wanted to re-route or change the plumbing. In retrospect, the better part of common sense would have been to replace the slip/slip bulkhead with a slip/threaded one, then just use plumbers tape. It's been three years, but I suppose I should still do that.

In my other tank, the 110 gal predator tank, the bulkheads are barb ended on the outside. That's another choice: replace the bulkheads with one with barb ends on the outside.

[hogfanreefer]

Thanks for asking those questions green.phillip, I was about to ask several of them my self.

If your tank is drilled in the bottom do you cut your overflow pipes (both the siphon and the upturned emergency) the same height and let the difference in height be due to the upturn vs down turn? Do you just eyeball it?

I've also wondered why the siphon? Why not just an open pipe? Is it to reduce noise or something more?

You guys that are so faithful to answer the newb questions are GREATLY appreciated.

[greene.phillip]

Thanks for asking those questions green.phillip, I was about to ask several of them my self.

If your tank is drilled in the bottom do you cut your overflow pipes (both the siphon and the upturned emergency) the same height and let the difference in height be due to the upturn vs down turn? Do you just eyeball it?

I've also wondered why the siphon? Why not just an open pipe? Is it to reduce noise or something more?

You guys that are so faithful to answer the newb questions are GREATLY appreciated.

I'm sure you could do better as far as a source for answers but as far as I know the siphon is for both noise and flow reasons. Full siphon floes more and is quieter due to lack of air in the pipes to gurgle or bubble. I think on the emergency as long as it can flow enough and you keep it below the top edge of tank it should be ok and I this k as long as you keep the downturned one low enough that it keeps the overflow box below the teeth so you get some surface skimming you'll be okay. But then again this is my first tank.